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Aims for 2014 (Read 86672 times)

jakk

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#175 Re: Aims for 2014
July 28, 2014, 03:33:54 pm
  • Climb 8A+
  • consolidate 8A. Just came back from rocklands and took down a couple in pretty quick time
  • valiantly attempt an 8B
  • finish of some nemeses (i.e. don't fall off the top of berezina again)
  • Make it to Magic Wood. Nope, other trips used all the money
  • Go somewhere new. Rocklands last month and kalymnos in september!
  • one armer on little crimp on beastmaker
  • get flexibility back!
  • at least a reasonable 2.1 for the year. Happy with that one

All in all its going alright  :)

Wil

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#176 Re: Aims for 2014
September 27, 2014, 11:00:17 am

Trad: Onsight E4 consistently and get up a few major E5s onsight (Positron, Right Wall, Supersonic). Get back to Pembroke for a long weekend (only did 4 routes there this year). Headpoint a grit E6 (candidates, Wall of Sound, Salmon Left Hand, Slackers). Ressurection, Bloody Sunday, Minotaur, Trouble in Toytown flashed or onsighted. Have done quite a few E5s this year one way or another. Also headpointed Yukan II, a route I'd had in the back of my mind for ages, surprised myself with it falling into place quite easily.

Sport: Flash 7b, redpoint 8a before I'm 30 (18 months). Think I'm good for both of these, just need to get the mileage and train carefully, specifically power and finger strength for 8a. Flashed 7b in Chorro (prob a soft one) but got up quite a few 7a+ routes onsight. Ticked more than average 7b+/7c routes this year. Still not climbed harder than 7c, 8a feels possible but is a sideline goal with other things really, more of a measure of progress than a goal. Key sport goal at the moment is to get more stamina and finally put Body Machine to bed.

Make a training log to aid progress on this. Had limited plan this year due to work commitments. Long summer holiday sorted most of it out and I focussed on strength in between. Have 6 month plan for Easter next year,

Life: Finish PGCE successfully. Decide where I want to live! Still in Sheffield, got job.

Fiend

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#177 Re: Aims for 2014
September 29, 2014, 02:38:40 pm
Rough chronological order:

1. Climb some more grit routes this winter. - semi-fail. Had one brief trip whilst injured so didn't do much exciting.

2. Short trip to Pedriza in late January. - success! A bit hampered by weather but managed to do a few ace slabs.

3. Short trip to Berdorf in cool spring / autumn. - fail. Need to organise something this autumn.

4. Short trip to Pfalz in cool spring autumn. - fail. Need to organise something this autumn.

5. Move to Manchester / Peak area. - fail. Need to do this.

6. If successful, climb some cool routes in Wales / South West. - semi-fail. Had a few days in Meirionydd and loved it. Hopefully get down more this autumn.

7. Get weight below 12 stone in spring. - fail. Despite cutting out soft drinks and keep training more than last year, I keep gaining weight.  >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:(

8. Keep doing falling practise. - success. Done this every time I've been to the wall and it's starting to feel familiar.

9. Keep training CV at gym and micro-runs. - semi-success. Done this a reasonable amount, could do more though.

10. --- to be added later --- Let's say: Do some good routes in The Lakes. - success. Done some good routes in The Lakes! Still need to get to Raven and maybe Dow before my brain explodes from desire.

3/4 mark report. Fairly shit as far as goals go although I have done some good climbing and training this year.  :???: :???: :???:

csl

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#178 Re: Aims for 2014
September 29, 2014, 02:54:48 pm
General

Regular training - join a London climbing club to increase opportunities to get out - Very much done - Have been climbing a lot considering how far from rock i am without a car.
Prioritise climbing outside over drinking/working! - done recently.

Sport
Get out to Portland/Swanage/Brean Down/Anstey's Cove - 3/4. Possibly get to Ansteys before the year is out.
Climb 7c's/7c+ 1 7c, done ok considering not projected much at all.
Go to a new sport climbing holiday destination, El Chorro, Rodellar, Kalymnos.  - Done, and another trip to new place booked for October.

Trad

Onsight some more classic E4's - only 1 E4 this year.
Onsight E5 - 1 E5
Get out to Swanage/Sharpnose/Pembroke. - 2/3. May still get to Sharpnose too.
(rollover from last year) do Wall of the World, Right Wall and some other classic E5's. - Not yet - could still do WOTW's though.

Bouldering

Check out SS bouldering...
Climb a font 7a+/V7 outside.
Climb a font 7b/V8 outside.
- Total failure to boulder.

Other

3.15 Marathon - Bailed on running, too much hard work.
(rollover from last year) Climb Freeborn Man - Jumped off due to fear on first days DWS.

Sasquatch

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#179 Re: Aims for 2014
September 29, 2014, 04:33:52 pm
1. Boulder 8B (one of two local projects that I've been trying off and on since 1999) - Check
2. Mandala (next fall?) - November trip planned, but not yet booked.  Booking will happen this week.
3. Crow Pass Marathon in Sub 5hr (July) - Couldn't get registered(strict qualifying requirements)
4. More days outside than 2013 - Including travel days, this has already been met, and with another trip and another month locally, should well beat it.
5. Bolt and climb some new routes hopefully in the 8a-8b range :) - One 8a/+ bolted and done.  Going to start working on #'s 2 and 3 this month.

So far every expectation of meeting all of this years goals!

JackAus

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#180 Re: Aims for 2014
October 01, 2014, 12:03:58 am
1. V8 by the end of the year. Brought over from last year... Pff. Realistic goal there dumbass. Only did my first V7 2 months ago. Unless I get on a soft V8 (nothing soft around here!), I've got no chance. Green for the V7 though! :D
2. Finish off mega dws project. It's about 7c+. Almost time to get back on it... First 30 degree day yesterday but water is still cold. Couple of weeks.....
3. Put up at least 100 new problems. 47... Slowed down abit but big new crag I found is now drying out... Should keep me busy.
4. Do a mini guide for at least one of the new areas I'm developing. Rather than making a guide, I've been logging all info onto www.thecrag.com for all to use. New local facebook group is getting some attention now too. I'm counting it.
5. V7 in the Grampians. Fires. Didn't get down there. Some areas have only just opened up. Unlikely that I'll go down this year.
6. Probably the most important, stop being a fat bastard and get down to 70-75kg. Damn I'm lazy...

Wood FT

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#181 Re: Aims for 2014
October 01, 2014, 09:33:58 am
Trad: Right Wall Had a great trad trip in august with an aim for RW at the end, rained as we pulled into N Wales, oh well went to Gogarth, small chance of an October attempt but more likely not.

Sport: More at 7c and find a good 7c+ got another 7c and 7b+ but still valiantly fighting for a 7c+ (Arch Enemies is never 7c) will get back on Call of nature too as the temps drop

Bouldering: 7B (again) Haven't bouldered but gains on the wave recently signalling this should be ok this winter, my apple or suavito ideally

Life: Buy house and finish short grit film Did film and just waiting on completetion date for house, long struggle and glad it's coming to an end

http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/the-gritual-part-1
http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/the-gritual-part-2



rginns

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#182 Re: Aims for 2014
October 06, 2014, 01:21:11 am
Non-climbing
3. Lose half a stone

Climbing
1. Climb a Lancashire 7a

3.Nailed, down to about 10 stone fuck all and feel much better for it

1. Done today! Climbed Pursuit of Slappiness 7A at Jumbles, took me by surprise but well pleased, need to get on more now!

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#183 Re: Aims for 2014
October 06, 2014, 07:18:53 am
Go Beast!!

Moo

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mr chaz

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#185 Re: Aims for 2014
October 06, 2014, 07:13:43 pm


Sport - 7c Yes! One in Cheedale (Cry of Despair) and another in Ceuse (Vagabond).


kelvin

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#186 Re: Aims for 2014
October 06, 2014, 08:51:05 pm


Sport - 7c Yes! One in Cheedale (Cry of Despair) and another in Ceuse (Vagabond).


Nice work chaz!

ghisino

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#187 Re: Aims for 2014
November 04, 2014, 04:41:45 pm
i'd be really happy realizing just a single one of the following:

blahblahblkah
...or onsighting 7c
did a soft one in Orco

blahblah

...US trip.
went to Yosemite

blahblah

...Any big wall
went up the Nose in no particular style.

so it seems that i've realized three (or rather two, as us trip=big walll) of my declared objectives. I should be very happy!

...yet i feel a disappointing sense of "underachievement" when thinking about the Yos trip i've just came back from.
On one side my three trip mates had an heavy argument on the Nose itself just before my arrival, two of them left the Valley, and this left me with a climbing partner that was not the "planned" one, and most importantly seemed to have very different objectives, motivations and fears.
(aid & big days  Vs free & smaller days, climbing for the routes' name and size Vs for the physical challenge and the "freeclimbing achievement", not being confident free Vs not wanting to walk too long or haul too heavy)
On the other hand after a bit of initial, rather successful compromising where we worked as a complementary team (the Nose), i stupidly got stuck into my initial objectives (which could have been an ambitious but reasonable choice with different partner styles) and basically trashed time while at the same time losing my main partner's residual motivation. 
At the end of the trip i really wanted to do the Rostrum but couldn't find anyone to go with: my partner felt it was too hard in freeclimbing terms (and probably not "famous" enough in France, nor enough of a "big day out") , everyone i knew at camp4 had already done it one of two weeks before!

very happy with something that was not a declared aim though.
early in the trip we went to Separate Reality, managed to flash it with a proper fight, placing the gear and with zero warmup (but knowing each available video by heart), and then went back to camp 4, drinking fat tire's.
I think it was Nibile who learned me that Gullich's definition of a "perfect climbing day" was similar to this (go to the crag, send your project really quickly, and then go to the gasthaus).  :)

Wood FT

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#188 Re: Aims for 2014
November 04, 2014, 04:52:25 pm
very happy with something that was not a declared aim though.
early in the trip we went to Separate Reality, managed to flash it with a proper fight, placing the gear and with zero warmup (but knowing each available video by heart), and then went back to camp 4, drinking fat tire's.
I think it was Nibile who learned me that Gullich's definition of a "perfect climbing day" was similar to this (go to the crag, send your project really quickly, and then go to the gasthaus).  :)

 :beer2: allllrighttt

Nibile

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#189 Re: Aims for 2014
November 04, 2014, 07:30:47 pm
Monster achievement!
Gił il cappello davanti a te amico mio.
As I like to say, the less I climb, the better.
 :dance1:

Richie Crouch

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#190 Re: Aims for 2014
November 04, 2014, 10:31:13 pm
Climb less, rest lots, achieve more is a good way to roll!

SA Chris

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#191 Re: Aims for 2014
November 05, 2014, 10:16:34 am
drinking fat tires.

Colorado's finest. My beer of choice on CO ski trips.

And awesome effort on SR.

peewee

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#192 Re: Aims for 2014
November 05, 2014, 12:14:36 pm
1. Get my Tally of 7C's up to 75
Tally now up to 90

2. Do Zoo York, carried over from last year
Grit season about to start so theres time

3. Aim to do 10 8A's
11 so far

4. 8A+, A long shot......
Managed 2!!

5. Attempt to do more sport climbing
Illywacker and Comedy.


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#193 Re: Aims for 2014
November 25, 2014, 09:14:12 pm
1. Boulder 8B (one of two local projects that I've been trying off and on since 1999)
2. Mandala (next fall?)

3. Crow Pass Marathon in Sub 5hr (July)
4. More days outside than 2013
5. Bolt and climb some new routes hopefully in the 8a-8b range :)
Sent 8b Local line in September - Check #1
Sent Mandala last Saturday - Check #2
Wasn't allowed to sign up for Marathon due to race pre-reqs - Fail #3
More total outside days, but not as many local days out.  Still Counts :) - Check #4
Bolted and sent 1 new 8a/+ this summer.  Repeated another 8a routes as well - Sort of #5

Well that's it for the year for me.  Nothing else happening on the climbing front this year.  Gotta say, I'm pretty pleased with the years results!  Definitely a good one for me.

Yoof

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#194 Re: Aims for 2014
December 06, 2014, 07:52:15 am
First time publicly stating my aims, hopefully that means they'll actually get done.

Bouldering:
Put a bit of time into some problems to break out of the 7a+/7b plateau
eatswood Traverse
Finish Dosage in Font (Buthiers)
More 7bs. Done 10 including 7b+s

Sport
Get a 7c outside Hohyboude in Switz. Given 7c+ by some
Get good at onsighting close to limit again

Trad
Basically do more UKC tells me I did 5 trad routes this year
Onsight some E4s
E5
E6? One on preplaced gear at the start of the year

Other
Get a beastmaker and do what the name says. Beastmaker has been put away, but rings have replaced it
Do well in uni. Meh.
Remain uninjuredThus far

Not a bad year all in all

tomtom

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#196 Re: Aims for 2014
December 06, 2014, 08:55:56 am
Didn't set myself any climbing goals for 2014.
I had 2 goals: 12 months of progressive rehab following spine surgery and finish the lime guide. Both achieved. Bring on 2015

chris j

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#197 Re: Aims for 2014
December 06, 2014, 09:29:56 am
Keep it simple this year.

1. Not get injured. Tick (touch wood with 3 weeks of the year left)
2. Boulder 7A Managed 2 alleged 7A indoors, does this count?
3. Sport 7b+ Big tick with associated YYFY, the Lynch.  :weakbench: End of an era with send of a route that was my anti-style when I first tried it 5 years earlier. Sadly didn't follow this up as work intruded for the next few months.
4. Trad E3 Surprise tick here with a visit to Split Rock Quarry on my 2nd trad day of the year. Failed to consolidate by not climbing any more trad at all in the year! What happened there?  :shrug:

Good start to the year, tailed off in climbing terms from June as work intruded. Built the garage board in Sept/Oct to kickstart things, now lets see what 2015 brings...

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#198 Re: Aims for 2014
December 06, 2014, 09:51:09 am
Alpine / Trad trips to any two or more of:
  • Dolomites Had a long weekend planned in June but everything was still under piles of snow. Went sport climbing instead.
  • Oberreintal Had a ltrip planned with some mates from the DAV but then had to take care of family stuff in England instead. Apparently it was great. Next year.
  • elsewhere in Alps e.g. Ecrins Managed to squeeze in a couple of pleasant minor routes in the Kaisergebirge and Wetterstein despite limited time and crap weather in the summer
  • UK trad excursion A short but pleasant North Wales visit with Kelvin

Frankenjura: as regularly as possible. Mop up some of 2013's open 6c+ projects in the spring then get on a 7a. But also work on my overwhelming grade/style gap by getting on some overhanging thuggy 6b+'s

The grade/style/confidence gap on steep stuff is still there, but I'm working on it.

Nearly all my holiday time this year was taken up with visiting my ageing (dying) parents in England, leaving very little time for climbing trips. The one week I did reserve for an attempt on an ambitious alpine route was a complete washout: nonstop pouring rain. Managed to tack a short but pleasant outing to Wales onto one of the family visits.

Repointed my first 7a yyfy, and it wasn't totally desperate (five goes in total) which has done a lot for my general level of confidence and ambition. Consolidated my sport standard in general: seven of my top ten logbook entries are from 2014.

Difficult family circumstances, monsoon summer, but a good autumn sport season. Enjoyed what I did and the company of the people I did it with. Roll on next year.

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#199 Re: Aims for 2014
December 07, 2014, 07:26:44 pm
The last two years have been a real rollercoaster and for the first time I ages I feel settled. So......

- Lose a stone.

Lost 3/4 so nearly done.  Had I not cracked a rib and got the flu I reckon that would have been ticked.

- Pass my bike test and buy a good bike

Done, passed in May and bought a Victory Hammer-S


- Have a really good trip to the Ments with GME and the lads

Done, a brilliant trip, especially after not having surfed for such a long time.

- Go climbing

Only once but not that bothered.

- Do some music thing

Yes, yes, yes.  Really came on playing my guitar this year. Written some songs.  Played with a few musicians.  Psyched about the coming year to play live and stick a record out.


 

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