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UKB Power Club Week 201 16th Dec - 22nd Dec 2013 (Read 12569 times)

T_B

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?kg

M - Foundry lunch. Deadhanging. 1 set of 6 x 7 on lower rungs of BM. 60 press ups, 100 crunches.
T - Foundry wave. First time wearing a rock shoe on my left foot! Just did some problems. Great.
W - Foundry. Foot-on campussing (foot a bit sore from yesterday) and circuits on the circuit board.
T - Foundry wave. As per Tuesday. Bit tired and pulled left ring finger slightly so finished early.
F - Drove to wife's parents in Norfolk.
S -
S - Highball bouldering wall comp in Norwich. 193 points, came 2nd and Rach came 2nd in the women's. Well chuffed as foot not that restrictive and only made a couple of errors (greasing off one easy problem and popping off another). 3 solid hours of non-time-pressured bouldering - yay!

cheque

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T - Foundry wave. First time wearing a rock shoe on my left foot!

S - Highball bouldering wall comp in Norwich. 193 points, came 2nd

 :2thumbsup: :clap2: Pretty incredible recovery!

duncan

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STG - not sure
MTG - Longish, Hardish and Freeish objectives in Yosemite June 2014
LTG - E5 os; 7b rp. BHAGs in Alps and Dolomites.

73.2kg + 6 days of Arab hospitality = TOO MUCH.

M - El Hoyo. Easy day: couple of 6bs.
T - Las Bovedas. More 6bs then strained biceps tendon (median nerve?) on bouldery 6c. Fuckity fuck fuck...
W - Hill run
T - Hill run. Watched Gaskins interview video. Fascinating. Thanks to all concerned.
F - Hill run.
S - Fasnia. Very easy day.
S - Arico. Easy day:  five x 6a. Arm OK. Phew...

Tenerife for Christmas as usual. Weather balmy as usual. Crags full of Germans as usual.

Before the trip I wasn't sure if I should try a harder (for me) red-point or go for lots of big days in preparation for next June. Since tweaking the arm it's probably best to go for the latter. Recent family and work-related developments mean next year's Yosemite trip will probably be my last for some time, so acquiring the fitness for that has to be main aim for the next six months. It's all about being able to 'cruise mid 5.11 cracks'. A bit of a cop-out since it will be working a strength rather than a weakness. Getting stronger, 7b and E5 will have to wait a little longer.

nik at work

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Hi Nick - thanks for this... there seem to be two main ways of doing the first move both using the (only real) foothold below and between handholds  - 1. RF on and flag left way out left and big slap for the jug or 2. LF on and then right toe under the edge to help pull in and on to the slap etc.. is the heel method basically the same but with a heel out right under the edge rather than the toe?

I could pull on for 1 and kind of slap - and I pulled on a couple of times for 2 but if felt like my left leg was in the wrong place - I may need some lank leg folding tricks for this..
Yup, that's the badger. I think there is a way of using a right heel instead of toe hook which is more effective for the streakier of pissier type of gent. If my rudimentary understanding of twitter is correct I think Grubes found you a video of Garry doing it using a heel?

JackAus

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STG: Finger recovery then V7.
LTG: V11

M: Hot. Dws with a mate. Finger felt horrible. Couldn't even get TO the crux... Had to clean a big spider from a crucial pocket. Hanging by 3 fingers in a roof 10m off the water and the fucken thing tries to bail out onto my face... Work late.
T: Helped my Dad out doing a load of concreting. Warm.
W: Work.
T: Work AM. Hot. Quick 2hr dws session. Another fairly rubbish session. Finger felt like poo.
F: Work.
S: Work arvo. Had a mate turn up to stay and climb for a few days.
S: Warm. Dws. Jumped on the project for a couple I'd warm-up burns while mate set up rope to ab in to look at the crux and take photos. Had a few good attempts, made small progress but still no luck. Last 2 moves felt in the range of 7A/+, whole route is 7c+ish. Mate got scared by the route and backed out, he  put up a 40m traverse at 7a though. Showed him to a new area but was to warm for climbing. Lazy evening with lots of cider...

Overall, didn't climb much but very busy with other stuff. Managed to pull on some fairly small crimps and my finger did ok. Hurt at the time but seems ok afterwards. Hopefully this is a sign of recovery......

Luke Owens

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Merry Christmas guys!

Monday: Lunch Session
12 Wide Grip Pullups, 10 Dips, 10 Hammer Curls (15kg), 10 Tricep Curls (12.5kg)

6 x 10 Offset Pullups

3 x 10 Bentover Dumbbell Flys (15kg)
3 x 10 Dumbbell Lunges (35kg)
3 x 10 Leg Raises

Tuesday: Boardroom Bouldering
10 x V1-V2
3 x V2-V3
5 x V3-V4
4 x V5-V7

Piscobloc 6c route first go.

Wednesday: Lunch Session
12 Wide Grip Pullups, 10 Dips, 10 Tricep Curls (15kg)

3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
3 x 10 Hammer Curls (15kg)
3 x 10 Bentove Shoulder Flys (15kg)

10 Squats (30kg)
3 x 10 Squats (60kg)

Thursday: Nipped up to Hope Mnt. as I finished work early to finish off the f6C+ but it was freezing and raining...

Boardroom Routes
Ticks:
5, 5+, 6b, 6b+, 6c+ 2nd go, 6b+, 6b+ 2nd go, 6b+, 6b+

Failed on:
7a, 6c+, Roof 6c+ x2, 6c, 6b+ x2

Friday: Rest

Saturday: Nesscliffe, bone dry and sunny when everywhere else was apparently in the middle of a storm...

Tried a very hard 6B+ traverse line called Berlin's Fallen about 10 times, fell off the last move twice. By the time I'd figured it out I couldn't link it...

Went up to the Terrace (Should of gone there first). Repeated my old nemesis Right Hand Route (6B+) first go. Worked on Northumberland Wonderland (7A/+). Never used to get close on the first move and I finally managed it a few times despite being knackered so I'm very happy. Reckon it's on now, keen to get back.

Sunday: Pinch Training
Thumb Weights
5 x 12kg
5 x 14kg
5 x 16kg

krymson

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Merry Christmas guys!

Sunday: Pinch Training
Thumb Weights
5 x 12kg
5 x 14kg
5 x 16kg

Merry Christmas, Luke! nice to see you get back on it. Can I ask about your thumb weight setup?

Ti_pin_man

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 :icon_321:oh crap... Was I supposed to train this week?  Bugger. :-) merry Xmas one and all.  Saturday is my next session so I'll be seeing if this week has put me back or not.  Frankly spending precious time with my daughter is always the trump card.  Enjoy folks.  Yo ho ho

Luke Owens

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Merry Christmas guys!

Sunday: Pinch Training
Thumb Weights
5 x 12kg
5 x 14kg
5 x 16kg

Merry Christmas, Luke! nice to see you get back on it. Can I ask about your thumb weight setup?

https://lh3.ggpht.com/-NZLjJjZfPO0/UKerM38ZfdI/AAAAAAAADM0/84-arJLOJxM/s200/entrenamiento+pinza+con+monodedo+01.jpg

Set up like this, but I just use a sling over the thumb and through the weights instead of what ever is being used in the pic!

Could really feel it in the pinch muscles in the hand the day after. The same feeling as when I train on problems with pinches. Hopefully it'll do something, just experimenting at the moment!

 

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