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UKB Power Club Week 201 16th Dec - 22nd Dec 2013 (Read 12569 times)

tomtom

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2013 totals:
Outdoor: 111
Indoor: 4
Training: 9
New Grade 7's 21

After last weeks non-climbing eating week, I was determined to get back in the saddle..

M: Logport wall - christ - am I really that bad? No climbing for a week and I couldnt do anything graded harder than V4.. stuttered around for 90 min in the end just working on volume as there clearly wasnt any strength there...
T:
W: Beastmaker.. 3 sets - mainly on the large holds. Ouch. Amazed how much my core is worked out by the BM..
T: Had to go over to Hull, but managed to grab a cheeky 90 min at Burbage Westicles.. Threw some mats under Western Eyes with Dave - and had some fun pulling on it.. I'm amazed how much that problem works the front two on my LH (hanging that slopey edge high) - I can feel it right down my arm..
F: Text from Andy Popp to head over to Runcorn Heath where he's working the sitter to the 7A+ to 7B+ arete (its really morpho I think) and I threw myself at it and came really close with a sequence involving some very subtle changes in body position (very satisfying) but then ran out of juice..
S: I was in a foul mood. MrsTT invited various friends from work, neighbours, college, social things etc.. around from 6 onwards... Had a headache all night, sat in the kitchen pretending to tend to the Mulled wine
Su: Didnt feel like doing much (still in a funny mood) and certainly didnt fancy heading out into the peak. It looks like today had the last decent forecast for a good few days - and I suspect it was rammed. Then about 1pm I thought why not go and have a look at Trowbarrow. Earlier in the week I posted up about finding/working a 8A http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13202.msg430552.html#msg430552 and wanted to have a look at Vitruvian/Iron man.. well I had a look and a feel.. and that first move feels quite a long way away, but that toe hook might well work for me.. It was cold and I didnt warm up (just pissed about on it for 45 min) but it looks like a go-er, maybe :)

kelvin

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Cheers tomtom

Tuesday - Did some routes for a change! Tried to onsiight two vertical 6bs and got nowhere. There may be something in redpointing after all. Bouldered and traversed for an hour before.

Saturday - First ever V3 flash  :smart:   Went to the wall at 9am to find just two of us in the boulder room, ace for me as no distractions and the other chap was working the same stuff. Got some good foot beta on a V3 that my dodgy wrist makes hard, worked the V5 on the slab and progressed a bit. Also had a couple of goes at a V6, nails as expected.

Happy with the V3 flash, definitely making progress at the moment. Doing nothing steep this set seems to have proven beneficial and outside, I won't be climbing steep stuff anyway. It's been a good end to the year indoors.

Off to Wales on xmas day for maybe 3 weeks, so not sure when I'll post next but hoping to spend boxing day soloing on Holyhead Mountain and maybe get in the slate quarries too. Plan A being to get my mountain legs back and get some cardio in.

Happy Hols everyone  :beer2:

ps Oh yeh - managed 5 pullups for the first time ever!

shark

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11.7-8

M.
T.AM (Pre breakfast) Fingerboard session including slopers and hanging the #10 small crimp which I can crimp for 10secs and do as three finger drag for 4secs Eve. Foundry with Poppy. Bouldered on Wave and got involved with undercuts on the 40degree board
W.
T. FB session as above.
F. PM eatswood. Desperately cold. No progress on Reverse or Hats for Percys
S. PM Leaf clearing
S. Felt lethargic  :yawn:. Joined Dave at Remergence. Chilly but bearable.  Dave demoed Blind Ali which looked ace but as it is a traverse I will restrain myself from getting involved. Got stuck into Blind Date but split a tip on last go. Headed to the Tor but Weedkiller and most other stuff wet. Contemplated Minus10 but chatted to Zippy in the Stoney layby and decided it would open up the split more so went home. Must remember to take finger repair kit with me from now on.
   


Muenchener

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STG (January): obtain or build doorway mounting rig for beastmaker.
        15 minutes overhanging ARC. Currently: 10.
        Turkish Get-Up w/20kg kettlebell.
MTG (Spring 2014) 7a redpoint. Two hundred practice falls by Easter - currently: 10 15
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M:   
T: Kettlebell: 4 x 20 swings, tgu training 2 x shoulder press and hold top position for 10 secs. Target was 3.

W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes 5c 5c 6a+ 6a+ 5c 6b. Utterly weak session, pumped on everything no matter how easy. Any endurance I may have built up by diligently doing circuits in September & October, and then utterly wasted by failing to ACTUALLY FUCKING GO CLIMBING  :furious:, is gone completely.
Redeemed the evening slightly with a homeopathic dose of falling practice.
Hazel on Once Upon a Time in the South West on the telly in the bar was a plus too.

T: Watched Gaskins interview.
F:
S: Kettlebell: 4 x 20 swings, tgu training 2 x shoulder press and hold top position for 10 secs.
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. ARC/aerocap attempts 2 x 10 mins steep, 1 x 20 mins vertical

kelvin

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T: Watched Gaskins interview.
l


Only counts as training if you were planking at the same time  :jab:

cheque

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STG: 7A in a session, 7A+ worked on grit this season.

M- Rest.

T- Old school strength session: 3 sets of 10 pull-ups, 10 bicep curls and 30 pushups. Increased weight on bicep curls by 3.5kg to 13.5kg. Reverse wrist curls after.

W- Rest day but lugged PA speakers about so I'm calling it active rest.

T- Depot. New red circuit ("V3-V5" I think): tried to do them all in the available hour and a half. Didn't quite manage it but good workout.

F- Rest.

S- Rest. Eating.

S- Stanton Moor. First visit- impressed by the rock, problems and situation but not the tramping around finding things! Weird conditions that varied between great and rubbish almost every half hour. Did a nice 6B+ then worked the ace Brad's Arete but we only found a key hold after we'd tried it a lot, I'd tweaked my finger and conditions had deteriorated again, so one to go back for. Did some easier problems to finish.

Surprised to find that I still weigh less than 10 stone on Friday (usually above that by now). Finger tweak is slight but I'll be taking it seriously- Christmas will make it easy to rest anyway.

tomtom

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T: Watched Gaskins interview.
l


Only counts as training if you were planking at the same time  :jab:

:D

csl

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Dec
Climb 3x a week 2/3
Get on a rope @ Westway - Done
Get outside once - not done
Run - done

Winter
V8 indoors/generally get stronger bouldering.
Book a trip sport climbing in March/April.

Mon-Thur - Horrible Flu + horribly busy week at work.
Fri- Biscuit Factory. Flashed a few V4-6 Hendrix and V3-5 Reds. Onsighted 6a+ and 6c circuits. Fell off 7a circuit.
Sat- Exposed some weaknesses on some supposedly easier stuff on the comp wall which totally shut me down. Managed a 6b+ which i found nails, also repeated some problems up to 6c+ on comp wall and tried another crimpy 6c+.  Tried a few more Hendrix V4-6 and came close to a couple of Yellow V6-9. Onsighted most of new Black 7b on circuit board, should do this next time i have a dedicated circuit session.
Sun - Short run, still quite ill so probably shouldnt have gone. Just did a fairly slow 4km. 

Been ill and stressed with work, so not enough climbing. Hopefully have 3 sessions this week and avoid eating too much.

Muenchener

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T: Watched Gaskins interview.
l


Only counts as training if you were planking at the same time  :jab:

er, stretching. Always stretch whilst watching telly.

kelvin

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er, stretching. Always stretch whilst watching telly.

Ahhh... full yoga session then. Well done sir!

andy popp

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STG: Carry on recuperating from stupid fall. Nearly there.
MTG: sit to Alec' Arete, Runcorn

M - nowt
T - nowt
W - having done Alec's last month, which had been a bit of a mini siege, I was keen to try the sit. This proves almost as morpho as the stand but I get something sorted after a bit and on one go find myself eyeballing the hold at the end of the crux. I leave encouraged.  I'm not sure but this could be pushing 7C for me
T - nowt
F - back to Runcorn.  Get close on two solid goes. It feels like just a matter of time.  Famous last words ...
S- nowt
S- was going to train but it's postponed till Monday.

Obviously not a heavy week but I'm happy to tried properly outside without pain and syched on new project.

tommytwotone

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Gonna be a quick update for me!


M: Felt ill, did nowt.
T: See Mon.
W: See Mon.
T: Works night out - 3 x ten pin bowling games. Won one, all 100+ scores...I'm taking that as a win. Drank a shitload though.
F: Hangover all day long.
S: NCT class, Xmas tree purchase / preparation.
S: Managed a couple of hours at Depot including nearly (apart from last move) doing one of the V7+ Yellows. Must be an easy one. Or a very hard last move.






nik at work

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 STG Some BM silliness
MTG Some slightly harder BM silliness
LTG Some hard-ish actual climbing, Spanish sport is the hope...

M - reasonable evening BM session
T - reasonable evening BM session
W -reasonable evening BM session
T - lurgy starts...
F - lurgy continues...
S - and continues...
S - and continues, but is tapering off now at last.

Pretty good start of the week, Wednesdays session was most successful yet. Now only need to do one-armers on the shallow biodoigt's on the bottom row to tick the STG. End of week has been a frustrating round of coughing, and next week will provide limited chance to do anything useful. Roll on the new year...

TomTom I presume the long move you are talking about is the first move of vitruvian? If so I think that taller gents (you are of that persuasion , non?) sometimes deploy a heel rather than toe hook. As a midget I can't offer any real first hand insight into it's viability. Just planting the seed...FWIW I'd say the first move is the hardest. Also when you get onto the Iron Man element of things it is possible to take a more strict line from the sitter but it is a bit easier (and I think more common) for people to bring holds a bit further left into play to get set into the start of VM.

krymson

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Monday
 Weights - opposition, eccentrics, one armer training
Tuesday
 ARC and some light bouldering at the gym
Wednesday
  Bouldering Gym did ok. Didn't pull hard but figured out beta on some projects.
Thursday
  Lead at the steep wall trying 7b 7c Made progress -- still far from the send though.
Friday
  Chilled
Saturday
 Bouldering gym - great - did a good warm up(harder "easy" problems), and then pulled hard. Resting well between attempts was key.
Sunday
  Toproping

Campus rung coming in the mail! psyched to get the right crimp as strong as the left so i can start climbing 5.5

Fultonius

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STG: None set yet. I'm using the festive period to get "back into" indoor bouldering.
MTG: Font 7C, May/June 2014  (current level - unknown. I have not been bouldering much recently but I did flash a hard 7A in Cresciano a few weeks ago, so I reckon ~7B)

Monday: After having the most random night of insomnia (full moon?) couldn't face climbing after work.
Tuesday: Worked late, no training.
Wednesday: Travelled home to Chamonix
Thursday: Nowt much
Friday: Dry tooling at Le Zoo. Went back to using big boots and crampons rather than rock shoes, so the M6 "warm up" took 2 goes  :-[ The M7 "cruisy training route" took 2 rests. Had an ego massaging go on the M10+ in rock shoes. What a difference!  Went home, finally put the beastmaker up, unfortunately it's about 2 degrees over vertical and the wall is a bit flexy so the 45s are the living end! Even the 35s take some concentration. DId a fairly basic muck around session with some chins ups on the #5 rails. Some back 3 hangs, some front 3 on the 35s. No real structure and probably not a lot of training benefit. Forearm tendons felt worked the next day though.
Saturday: Nowt, partying in evening
Sunday: Nowt.

So, I think I'm set for the winter - I have just posted off my application for the local bouldering wall (members only, €125 for the year) and mounted the beastmaker. It in a great place - in the doorway to our hall, directly in front of a full length mirror for "checking form" 8) and only 6 steps from the coffee machine!  :great:

tomtom

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TomTom I presume the long move you are talking about is the first move of vitruvian? If so I think that taller gents (you are of that persuasion , non?) sometimes deploy a heel rather than toe hook. As a midget I can't offer any real first hand insight into it's viability. Just planting the seed...FWIW I'd say the first move is the hardest. Also when you get onto the Iron Man element of things it is possible to take a more strict line from the sitter but it is a bit easier (and I think more common) for people to bring holds a bit further left into play to get set into the start of VM.

Hi Nick - thanks for this... there seem to be two main ways of doing the first move both using the (only real) foothold below and between handholds  - 1. RF on and flag left way out left and big slap for the jug or 2. LF on and then right toe under the edge to help pull in and on to the slap etc.. is the heel method basically the same but with a heel out right under the edge rather than the toe?

I could pull on for 1 and kind of slap - and I pulled on a couple of times for 2 but if felt like my left leg was in the wrong place - I may need some lank leg folding tricks for this..

Fultonius

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Campus rung coming in the mail! psyched to get the right crimp as strong as the left so i can start climbing 5.5

 :chair:

Oi, enough of the sarcasm - I thought you yanks didn't get sarcasm anyway??

fried

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Another week doing the bouldering.

Mon-Tues - Nothing
Wed- Indoor - lots of very good new stuff to go at, tough for the grade. Good.
Thursday - Bm session 3 sets.
Friday - Indoor - Finish 2 of the above problems that I didn't get round to. Bit achey in the elbows, so cut the session short.
Saturday - nothing
Sunday - Dragging 30l of wine through Paris and London. Back at the folks eating and drinking armagnac.

Evil

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STG - Going to Spain in January, want to be fit for wherever the sun is. Don't have a plan for exactly where yet, so difficult to set a very specific goal right now.
M/LTG - I guess outside 7a and f6c would be good goals.

This was a rubbish week, mainly suffering with the lurgy as a lot of others seem to be at the moment.

M - Called in sick to work. Took the dog to the park, and did 10 mins on the fingerboard while I was cooking in the evening, and did my elbow exercises. Otherwise moped about the house, and played some Borderlands 2.
T - Wandering around with the dog still off sick.
W - Had to go back to work as have some work needed doing before the holidays and unavoidable meeting, so cycled 16 miles and was extremely tired.
T - 16 miles cycling as W, but also did some hangs in the evening. Still tired and coughing a lot.
F - Feeling a bit better, climbed after working from home - Did a couple of routes - 5, 6a, 6a+ then up 6b+ down 4 up 5+. Did a little bouldering after that. Flashed 3 problems, 4th took a few gos for one move. Not sure of grades as they are on a wall without grades, just picked stuff I liked the look of.
S - Walked 6 miles. Bouldered afternoon, but just repeating stuff and feeling really tired.
S - 7.5 mile nice walk. Afternoon doing routes with a friend. Really not feeling energetic, so mainly stuck to easier stuff. Did try a new 6c which I think I will be able to do next time, and top roped a 6c+ which felt really hard. Would have quit earlier, but my friend wanted to keep going (always a recipe for a bad session!). Did a little campussing at the end.

Hoping to get a couple of good sessions in over Christmas before leaving for Spain on the 29th, as this week has been terrible. Probably should have stayed away from the climbing completely.

Dolly

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M Pilates
T Wave at lunchtime. Didnt think I did loads but felt battered afterwards
W Core workout at the gym. I'd nearly finished when one of the instructors asked if I wanted to do an improptu 15 min abs and core workout. God it was nails. Hardest abs thing Ive ever done. I was still achign on Saturday from it
T
F Some beastmaker

Dolly

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Sorry didnt finish and posted by mistake
S
S. eatswood again. This time with Rich Heap (FA) who couldnt remember any of it "It was just something I did while I was whilst waiting for Seb to do Fat Slapper"  On arriving at the crag he said he thought it looked a) great and b) a lot longer than he remembered. Shark was correct in his prediction that it would be absolutely baltic with the wind. It was borderline too cold really. Got through the knee bar but couldnt feel my hands so came off at the move up the the last right handhold. Next time hopefully

Schnell

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STG: 7b+ in Spain over new year
MTG 7B this bouldering season

M: exams, not good
T: more exams, better and fairly short/relaxed board bouldering session. Still struggling with a problem that involves an extreme drop knee on the left and then momentum to be generated from that position. I'd blame it on being to tall but my 6'5'' mate has done it. Max hangs as well
W: endurance/4x4s and foot on campussing. I realise I've botched the pre-Spain endurance training, I got into pe training about 10 weeks ago. I haven't varied since and haven't seen big gains. Probably should have gone for ARC before PE. Only just over a week to go now so it'll just be a matter of staying off the steeper stuff.
T: exams over, exmas starts,  :punk:
F: wanted to get outdoors but the weather has turned shit so do a bit of bouldering and routes instead, manage a 7b+ second go and fall off last move on os of another, bodes well for STG. Also did some climbing on a moon board, and I realise I'm unbelievably bad on this style. Huge crimps, huge footholds and I can do one 6A from the book. Not sure how useful the style is but definitely something to work on.
S: work and work christmas party
S: routes but feeling ropy after the previous evening. Not much of note

shark

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Shark was correct in his prediction that it would be absolutely baltic with the wind. It was borderline too cold really. Got through the knee bar but couldnt feel my hands so came off at the move up the the last right handhold. Next time hopefully

Wind forecast still to be generally from the North East this week so I think best avoided at the moment  :(

iain

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STG: A very long list of grit classics, many doable, a lot motivational
MTG: Spring trad and sport

Wed: Works bouldering. quality session with long rests, felt good.

Thurs: Works circuits, or at least it was meant to be. Despite warming up properly I got terminally pumped very quickly. Put it down to previous day.

Fri: Rest

Sat: Planned a family day as a result of the mixed forecast only for it to look lively out. Watches the Gaskins interview later (many thanks for doing it Shark) and wound up doing a fb session at the same time.

Sun: Back on Zippy's at plantation after a session last weekend. I can do most of the moves but I just can't keep the heel on. I feel I 'should' be able to do it as starting hanging from the same hand holds I can campus to the finish.
A friend had pointed out Twister so had a go and can get into the high undercuts but am then too stretched out to make much use of them, will try working out higher feet next time.


Beta Request: Any shorties on here done Zippy's? My heel is popping every time I'm stretching for the good hold with the right hand, it feels like as my leg straightens making the reach my toe is turning into the rock and releasing the heel. Any hints would be much appreciated. Cheers

webbo

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Mon. Nothing felt a bit knackered from Sunday.
Tue. Board weird session flashing some things nowhere on other things.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Board after warming up. Circuit of 6 problems 4 times, first 3 using screw on footholds.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Board working a couple of new things,managed right hand version of one. But couldn't do left hand version. Turbo 1 hour.
Sun. Bike 3 hours very windy. Heart rate up to 200 :o I hope my monitor was on the blink.

 

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