[csl]

Dec
Climb 3x a week 2/3
Climb V8 indoors
Get on a rope @ Westway - Done
Get outside once
Run

Mon
Tue
Wed
Thu - Biscuit Factory. 15 or so Greens V2-4. Some Hendrix V4-6. Wasn't climbing well.
Fri
Sat - Westway. 9 routes attempted,  6a-7a. Managed to onsight a 6c on main wall, but failed on all 7a's i tried. Overgripping a bit. Best effort was 7th clip on 7a on main steep wall onsight, not too bad considering lack of stamina training.
Sun - Feeling pretty ill so cancelled planned run.

[tomtom]

Nice one starting the thread CSL.

Week 200 eh! during which I have done nothing! Away Monday > Thurs at a course in Windsor, then over to Hull for an Xmas do on friday afternoon/evening.. then yesterday was invited to someones exec box at the footy.. (well it'd be rude not to!). Today I just feel too knackered to do anything! I worked out I have only had one meal (including breakfasts) cooked at home this week... So all I have done is 35 press ups and some planks on Wednesday morning. Pathetic.. Anyway, tis the season etc..

2013 totals:
Outdoor: 108
Indoor: 3
Training: 8
New Grade 7's 21

[kelvin]

So climbing psyche has reappeared... strange days indeed.

Mon - Flew back from Seville after my best day's sports climbing on the Sunday.
Tue - Pressups and squats plus some planks
Wed - Boulder room. Almost flashed a V3 for the first time, slipped of the penultimate hold, I hate slopers. Did the same the second go.
Thu - Ticked the V3 and then had a play on a V5 slab.
Fri - Got hammered.
Sat - Boulder room. Rubbish due to hangover, so did campus rail deadhangs with foot on. 8 sets of 10 x 7/3 with one minute rests. Plus some foot on campusing too.
Sun - Squats etc.

Dunno - something clicked this last two weeks and it's been easily the best I've climbed. Maybe not the highest grades but my movement and tactics have been so much better. Thanks mostly to Lucy Creamer showing me how bad I was back in Sept.

Benacoaz was a decent day on non polished rock and two V3s in a week, one third go and the other in five is my best return indoors, where I'm usually crap. Even managed the technical and crimpy V2s in no more than 2 goes each - that's made me right happy. Gonna do the deadhangs once a week as I'm way down on finger strength compared to this time last year and feel like I could make good use of that extra strength now.

[Muenchener]

STG (January): obtain or build doorway mounting rig for Beastmaker. TGU see below.
MTG (Spring 2014) 7a redpoint. Two hundred practice falls by Easter - currently: 10
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

Nearly Christmas! How did that happen? Family stuff, bit of a cold, shopping ...

M:   bike to & from work 25km
T:
W: order kettlebell for self for Christmas. Step One in a strategy aimed at being able to train effectively at home in weeks like this, when Life precludes being able to get out training. See also new STG.
T:
F: Xmas shopping: snowboard kit for M jnr. At age 10 he already needs adult boots, bindings & helmet. Expensive. 
S: Collect 20kg kettlebell. Attempt TGUs with it.    I may have overestimated myself here. New stg: ONE Turkish Get-Up with 20kg kettlebell (both sides, up and down in control). Swings go rather better: 5 x 15.
S: Wall, Thalkirchen. Finally made it to the wall again yyfy. Did cold, damp endurance circuits on outdoor wall & felt agreeably British & old-skool. 4 attempts on harder project circuits, 8 laps on easy but overhanging jugs.

[Fultonius]

Ok men and women of UKB-PC - this winter is dedicated to two things. Leanring French and improving my bouldering.

So, to track my progress and provide motivation I am back on the power club wagon!

STG: None set yet. I'm using the festive period to get "back into" indoor bouldering.
MTG: Font 7C, May/June 2014  (current level - unknown. I have not been bouldering much recently but I did flash a hard 7A in Cresciano a few weeks ago, so I reckon ~7B)

Ultimately Font 7C is purely a numerical goal, in fact, it is really a proxy goal for what I really want to do, which is a stack of big alpine mutli-pitch trad routes Fr7a and above. Things like Elixer D'Astrorath in the Capucin. Brandler Hasse etc.

It would also signify a true increase in my bouldering level, something which i haven't managed in a few years now.

Monday: Nowt.
Tuesday: TCA Glasgow (TCA-G) Session. Working my way through the blue circuit. 3 new blues on a range of angles, one flashed - ~6C)
Wednesday: Nowt
Thursday:TCA-G Session. Working my way through the blue circuit. Another 3 new blues. Feeling stronger on slopers.
Friday: Day 2 session at TCA-G. Not fully recovered and struggled on yesterday's problems. Scaked it off and did some basic bar / BM stuff. Managed to hang the 45s for 5 secs and dyno from 45s on low board to 30s on top board and bakc to 30s on low board. Not really "training" more just "arsing about on the BM".

This winter I am aiming to do 2 boulder sessions a week and one BM session.

[krymson]

so hows the French going? =)

STG: Balance right hand crimp to be as strong as left hand
LTG: Lead a 12 outdoors

Monday: Weight room - pullups, antagonist
Tuesday: Aerocap
Wednesday: Aerocap
Thursday: Bouldered hard stuff. Did a big move I couldnt do -- noticed these things are 90% in my head.
Friday: Chilled
Saturday: Lead climbing at a new gym. Took one practice fall on warm up but may not have been enough since I still felt sketched when pumped above a bolt. Still had a great time and learned a lot leading 11s.
Noticed that I'm pretty shit at leading roofs and pulling overhangs- not very good at figuring out roof beta and get scared shitless when the holds past the bulge aren't positive!
Sunday: ARC traversing at the gym. Gym provided a wide variety of terrain and holds I'm not used to. Felt good doing easy climbing over various angles and learning to rest and relax in new positions. 
did some fingerboard on the door frame at night to work on the right hand crimpl

[fried]

Ok men and women of UKB-PC - this winter is dedicated to two things. Leanring French and improving my bouldering.

Best advice for learning French is, find yourself a girl who doesn't speak English, or an, um boy.

Monday - Indoor. 2h frustratingly cut short by back problems.
Tuesday- Thursday - Nothing
Friday - Short Bm session
Saturday - Had my first homemade sauerkraut Alsacien style with loads of reisling etc.

Sunday - Feeling suprisingly O.K and although Paris had a little evening rain I risk a trip out to 91.1. It's not looking good and after a quick wander around I realise that nothing is dry. Drive back to Paris for an indoor session. Back O.K. and at least I teried to get out for what would've been the last outdoor session of the year.

[Fultonius]

Yes, well, erm. I'm not sure the missus would like that too much 

[fried]

You're living in France now, you have to (tell her to)adapt to the local culture

[nik at work]

Weight:58kg
STG: some pointless tricks on a beastmaker
MTG: a couple of extra beastmaker party pieces
LTG: something hard-ish

Mon: went for a weights session with a couple of mates. I've never done weights before apart from the odd play in hotel gyms so this was a whole new world of weirdness to me. Did theses three repeats of three sets of exercises. First up was 65kg bench press (20 reps) followed by chin ups (20 reps) then these dumbbell lifts leaning forward one arm resting on windowsill other arm lifting dumbbell from straight arm to fully bent 24kg (20 reps). Then repeat all three sets another two times. Then these odd offset press up things (20 reps), sit ups on an inclined ramp with 20kg held at arms length above your head (20 reps) then 20 leg raises, and again repeat all three sets another two times.
I found the bench presses really hard, I was surprised how unstable and wobbly the bar felt. Is this normal?
Tues: shoulders felt beasted, did nothing
Weds: tried to have a BM session, but despite fingers feeling fine beasted shoulders meant I was struggling to stabilise on holds and it was all a bit sore so binned it pretty quickly.
Thurs: another BM session basically getting to the point where I repeated, but didn't improve on Sundays benchmarking.
Fri: went out for pizza and troughed big time. No training
Sat: works night out, ate LOTS and got in at 3:00am...
Sun: ...up at 6:00am with kids. Felt weary all day but had an evening BM play. Surprised myself by doing a proper hang on the positive biodoit on the bottom row of the BM one armed with both right and left. Only a short hang but slight progress. Also managed moving off the mono's up to the 35's in the fairly static-ish fashion.

A good week in terms of seeing some slight progress (albeit entirely undeserved), but a bad week for the waistline. My weight is a guesstimate but I suspect I'm probably closer to 60 than 58 in all honesty... Also the weights session was a new thing, not sure it really does anything I want TBH, also I have no frame of reference so have no idea if I'm lifting decent amounts or laughably light loads.

[andy popp]

Goals: continue healing from idiot slapstick fall (which I'd managed to make worse again last week).

Mon: nowt, going nowhere near press-ups
Tues: ditto
Wed: board session, bouldering. Very tentative but I survived, which was nice ...
Thurs: see Mon and Tues + excellent bar crawl round Liverpool
Fri: work
Sat: board session, circuits - hurts a bit but after long hot soak afterwards feel not bad
Sun: Manchester Christmas market, hmmmmmmmm ...

Obviously not a great week but I definitely feel a bit more healed than I did on Monday. Forecast looks OK this week, might get out for the first time in ages.

[Fultonius]

You're living in France now, you have to (tell her to)adapt to the local culture

She's totally fluent ... but ... let's just say life's easier when you communicate in a language you both understand well...

[Fultonius]

Weight:58kg

First up was 65kg bench press (20 reps)

also I have no frame of reference so have no idea if I'm lifting decent amounts or laughably light loads.

Easing it in gently I see... (that's a lot of reps of a fairly heavy weight for your first time)

[shark]

11.7-8

M.
T. PM Weighted deadhangs. Felt tired after so deferred assisted 1 armer session.
W.AM Pre breakfast assisted one armer session on beastmaker
T. Midday. eatswood. Quite a full-on session as had to keep pulling on to stay warm. Worked the crux bit for probably 2hours but still didnt sort out a slick sequence. Back felt trampled after.
F.
S.AM Pre breakfast weighted deadhang session.
S.AM At crag by 9.30am home just after midday. Had a few goes at Hats for Percys but started cutting into tip of right index Finally got a slick sequence I'm happy with on the Reverse for the crux section from kneebar to sharing on low jugs so can start redpointing now.

In a bit of a quandary about my training strategy from the discussion on this thread.

[T_B]

84.7kg

M -
T - Foundry lunch. Deadhanging. 6 x 7 front 3, failed on 6 back 3. 1 set of 6 x 7 on lower rungs of BM. 80 press ups, 60 crunches.
W -
T - Foundry wave. Few problems wearing trainer on l foot inc l-hand black.
F -
S - 10 problems on comp wall at Works.
S

Easy week as planned. Great just to do/try some problems. Reckon I could get a rock shoe on now. Planning to do the comp at Highball Norwich next Sunday.

[Ti_pin_man]

STG: indoor 7a before mid Jan (extended by 2/3 weeks due to flu knocking me out)

M - core101 and Climbed hard, one slopy balancey route really perplexed me, didnt complete
 but topped a couple of others that I'd struggled on, huzzah.
T - commute 20 miles and core101
W - nowt
T - climbed and completed slopy route couldnt do.
F - nowt
S - climbed 3 hrs and completed purple at climb newcastle that struggled on previously.  stoked. 
S - footwork climbs as tired, 1 hr.

I seem to now be completing a few routes I struggled on.  I think my brain is working better on figuring out what I need to do technically to complete. 

Must check my weight later to see if i've lost anything.

[Evil]

STG - Going to Spain in January, want to be fit for wherever the sun is. Don't have a plan for exactly where yet, so difficult to set a very specific goal right now.
M/LTG - I guess outside 7a and f6c would be good goals.

M - cycling commute 16 miles total. Evening 10 minute fingerboard thing (pullups, L-sits, hangs etc)
T -  cycling commute 16 miles total. Evening at the wall routes -  6a, 5+, 6b+, 6c+ (two tries, didn't quite manage it either time, got about 3/4 of the way, too pumped. Good project though), 6b+ (tried, but failed on this one, had some weird shouldery bridging moves which I am terrible at), 6c+ (top rope, still pumped from trying the other one), 6a+.
W - cycling commute 16 miles total. Lunchtime 5k (25m53sec - really going for it for the last part) in the park incorporating dips and pullups at the bits of equipment in the park. Evening - elbow exercises.
T - cycling commute 16 miles total. Lunchtime was my work Christmas lunch which I hadn't booked on as I thought I'd be away, so I went for a sneaky long run instead, exploring a bit. Did 10k (59m11sec). Surprised that I can run 10k fairly easily.
F - No bodyweight circuit thing in the morning, as my legs were a bit tired from all the running. Did do some push ups and planks though. Evening climbing routes - 4+, 5+, 6a+, 6b+, 6c+ (the one I tried on Tuesday, got it this time), 6c (one with one stopper move, still can't do that move), 6b, 7a (top rope). Started feeling a bit ropey after this...
S - 6 miles walking the dog, did a few pullups and dips in the park, but feeling ropey as shit.
S - Walked the dog 4 miles, moped about with throat/chest infection. Eurgh.

Had been planning to boulder Sat/Sun, but was too ill and am now moping about at home with this bug . Still, at least it'll be gone before I go away, and I shouldn't have time to catch anything else!

[webbo]

Mon. Board worked out a couple of new things which I managed to link after lots of goes.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Off work went to the peak, misty so ended up at Rivelin dry. Tried Mini Beak could link it in 2 overlapping sections but not the whole thing. struggling a bit due to lack of proper warm up. tried Sparks a few times before running out of skin.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Off work waiting for new carpets. Board mirror session added a couple more problems 45 in total. Turbo 1 hr.
Sat. Weights followed by 1 hr on turbo.
Sun. Board worked and managed to a project that had been holding out for a few weeks. Putting lights up other tree outside. Bike 2hrs 10 mins mega windy 

[Dolly]

M Easy traversing at the Foundry lunchtime. Pilates in the evening.

T 6k run in the evening
W Cores sess at the gym - some aerobic
T 10 -12 easy routes at the gym. Felt tired though
F Started to come down with something. Headache/sore throat thing. Still managed to make it out for the middle aged climbers xmas drinks 
S nothing
S Didnt feel great so declined Shark's early eatswood plan. Started to feel a bit better later and with plenty of tablets/coffee ended up going there in the afternoon with Neil B. Met Cheque there    and got a better sequence (Bentley approved TM) on the middle and end bit, but it was wet and getting wetter so probably only had a couple of hours there which was enough really. Still don't feel right now

[cheque]

STG- 7A in a session, 7A+ sieged on grit this season. The eatswood Traverse?!

M- Rest.

T- Max hangs. Gains on most of the hold types but none on the smallest ones_ I guess progress comes quicker on these. Pull-up pyramid, planks, offset pullups etc. afterwards.

W- Swimming. 35 continuous lengths breaststroke. Felt easier than 30 did last week.

T- Notts Depot. Trying new white problems (hardest circuit) and hardest comp problems. Didn't do many but good workout. Usual circuit board warmup (6a circuit into 6b one) is now feeling quite pumpy so maintaining fitness is probably going to take more work than just doing this once a week.

F- Rest.

S- Robin Hood's Stride. Went with girlfriend with the plan of combining some bouldering with a walk but decided to leave the pads in the car and mess about soloing ancient mossy trad routes, scoping out problems I'd never looked at, encouraging ramblers to attempt to climb the pinnacles, etc. Fun.

S- eatswood. Raining when we got there (probably wasn't the best choice in hindsight), jumped out of warm-up crack as feet were damp but lowest footjam stuck so tipped backwards and bashed back of head on heroic spotters' knee!   10" Zombies was damp so joined Dolly  ( Cheers for the beta!) on the traverse. Turns out it suits me- steep, workable, lots of moves and responds well to backsteps, heels, kneebars etc. Linked from the start to somewhere in the middle (high RH pocket) on best go- pleased with that.

Excepting the mild concussion this was another good week. Psyched to try and work the eatswood Traverse into submission as well as do 10" Zombies so will probably be at eatswood a lot in the near future. Kneepad has gone on the Christmas list...

[Luke Owens]

A bit of a rest week for me this week, forced by illness! Feeling good now after a rest.

My indoor performance improved massively from what I usually feel/climb like in there with the added rest. It confirms I was training to much to get the most out of a session.

Monday: ill/Rest

Tuesday: ill/Rest

Wednesday: ill/Rest

Thursday: Boardroom Indoor Routes

Good volume. 16 Tie-ins in total. In order:

Ticks: 5+, 6a, 6b, 6b+, 6b+, 6b+, 6c/+ (3rd go), 6c+ (2nd go)

Fails: 6b+, 6c+, 6b and 6c x 2

Friday: Lunch Time Session
12 Wide Grip Pullups, 10 Dips, 10 Hammer Curls (15kg), 10 Tricep Curls (12.5kg)

Weighted Deadhangs (Front 3 Open hand on bottom rock ring pockets)

Progressive Set
5kg - 10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs, 10kg - 10secs

Main Set
12.5kg
Set 1 - 7secs, Set 2 - 8secs, Set 3 - 6secs

3 x 10 Bentover Reverse Flys
10 Leg Raises

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Hope Mountain
Took the little one out for a couple of hours in the morning.

Tried the 7A+ "Middle Undercut" about 10 times. I felt stronger on the holds but no closer on the move to the sidepull. I've tried this on and off for about a year and I'm not as inspired as I was by it anymore. Need to do more 7A's first I think.

Moved on to "Roof LH" 6C+ it starts with a jump into an iron cross cut loose position under a roof. I could never hold the swing/jump but managed it with ease this time. Not sure what's changed despite me not trying the problem all year? Not sure what training would benefit this kind of burly move?

Had about 5 goes almost topping out but just need to fathom the last move. Have since got better beta from friends so psyched to get back on it. Great unique problem!

Had a hairy moment with the little one walking underneath me mid-upside down heelhook... 

[nik at work]

Easing it in gently I see... (that's a lot of reps of a fairly heavy weight for your first time)

That would explain why I felt monstered for the next two days. The two guys I was doing weights with were picking weights/reps and such like. Rather than just doing what they did I should probably have been a bit more aware of the fact that they both weigh ~25kg more than me...

[Schnell]

STG: 7b+ in Spain over new year.
MTG: 7B this bouldering season.

M
T: Board bouldering, felt dire and couldn't do moves on an endurance problem I nearly had the last session. First exam of the season
W; pre-Spain endurance training, 4x4s and foot on campusing.
T
F: Board and max hangs, felt better than Tuesday and got back to the usual on the fb, crimp strength seems to be improving.
S: Second exam and board session more for stress relief than training, did some 4x4s
S: Board, surprisingly ok for the 3 day of climbing

Finding myself training too much due to exam stress. Also found out my beautiful shared board will be closed down in early 2014. Mightn't be a bad thing to have to go to the wall as I climb better with people around

[duncan]

STG - Don’t get injured; ease into climbing routes again.
MTG - 7b RP this winter; E5 OS next spring.
LTG - LH&F BHAGs in Yosemite and Alps summer 2014 and 15.

M - Fly to Bahrain.
T - Compulsory socialising
W - Gym.
T - Compulsory socialising: reception with the British ambassador and most of the Bahrain cabinet. Felt like I'd wandered into a Fererro Rocher advert.
F - Yet more compulsory socialising,
S - Fly to London. Brief fingerboard session.
S - Fly to Tenerife.

63.2kg.

Not much training, driving everywhere and generous Arab hospitality resulted in putting on 1 kg in a week. I now have 3 weeks in the sun and nothing to do other than climb. The rope-gun has just confirmed his availability for two weeks next June. Best news for some time. Better get fit!

[Duma]

STG - fix finger
MTG - keep niggles in check, run regularly, get out more. If I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M,T,W,T,F - Horrific week of night shifts, personal stress, and very little sleep. No training.
S -  still VV tired. Nevertheless up early, drive to peak. Meet mates at secret garden. bit of seepage put beachball out of commission but out of wind at least. Got beach bum and nige's problem in a couple of goes. did the moves on LHM but started to bite a hole in a finger so sacked it. Bit of a play on in the night all caps are black but was dripping onto what i think is a crucial hold. Wandered round Burbage W (was that you on the nostril 205Chris?) but wind and crowds sent us back to drink beer by the fire instead.
S - Curbar, dampness drying up nicely by the time we arrived. warmed up on mini prow, then flashed bad lip and got late junction second go - pleased. wandered up the track and did TUGE and then braved the wind in the trench - did everything here - cloud cuckoo land is nice but the ring and trench hole were ace! Very tired drive home, didn't eat, got drunk on very little cider.
 
69kg.

[205Chris]

Wandered round Burbage W (was that you on the nostril 205Chris?) but wind and crowds sent us back to drink beer by the fire instead.

  Was indeed me. Apologies for not being more social, thought I recognised the face but couldn't be sure.

Wind was indeed bitter, even worse round by true git. Beer and fire seems a far more sensible option!

[JackAus]

STG: Finger recovery then V7.
LTG: V11

M: Hot. DWS in the morning. Fun session, finger didn't do great, didn't even equal my high point on the project. Had a few goes trying to clear out a big ass spider from a crucial pocket. Had me going abit when I was hanging under a roof by 3 fingers 10m above the water and the spider bails out of the pocket aiming for my face... Work late.
T: Hot. Concreting all day.
W: Work late.
T: Warm. Went bush in search of a massive cave I'd found a couple of old photos of. 4 hours hard bush bashing and we got to a heeeeoooge overhang... Spectacular cave and area but huge disappointment as the rock was very chossy with dripping water behind every possible hold... 7 hours hiking kind of a waste.
F: Knackered from thurs. Work late.
S, S: work.

Only climbed once this week. Finger didn't do great  was fun to get back into the DWS...