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UKB Power Club Week 199 2nd Dec - 8th Dec (Read 14627 times)

andy popp

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Goal: try not to stuff myself up anymore after the falling over debacle two weeks before

Mon: nowt
Tues: board session, start tentatively but ends up pretty good and finish up a problem I was trying a couple of weeks before. Finish feeling OK, no real pain in lats/chest.
Wed: some core/press-ups. Right pec sore.
Thurs: board, three 20+ move circuits. In pain from half way through second one. In agony later. Bugger, bugger, bugger
Fri: right pec, such as it is, very painful. Rest.
Sat-Sun: rest, unsurprisingly

Not very good at all. Oh well.

nik at work

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Ok hectic work schedule, usual domestic commitments, lack of daylight hours and non-proximity to massive climbing wall means that I am going to be developing a very close physical relationship with my newly acquired BM (other finger boards are available). In an attempt to maintain motivation for this type of dangling which has never featured large in my life I'm joining the gang, if that's ok?

STG: One-armer* (left and right) on every pocket hold (except the mono's and the slopey shallow two finger) on the BM
MTG: As above but including the mono's
LTG: Something hard(ish) in Spain next Autumn (assuming the planned trip materialises...)

I'll not do a run down of last week but instead I did a baseline session on the BM on Sunday
Current best efforts:
One armer* (L and R) on deep biodoigt's on middle row (can fairly comfortably dead hang for 10secs)
One armer* (R only) on shallower biodoigt's on middle row (can just about dead hang for 10secs)
Brief dead hang (L) on shallower biodoigt's on middle row
Very very brief dead hang (L only) on slopey mono's and first joint mono's
Probably should be able to match the mono hanging action on my R but have a bit of a forearm strain which doesn't massively affect my grip on multi-finger holds but feels 'wrong' on mono's, frustrating.

That's about it except for...
* the 'one armers' are pretty poor form and not from fully straight arms, my elderly shoulders can't take that sort of action. The actual one armer element is secondary to the being able to hold the hold to do the one armer (yeah that's me making excuses, what of it?)

Boredboy

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Got ill towards the end of last week most probably due to over training, going to take it easy this week.

Posted a thread about being powered out on indoor routes here:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=23330.0

Agreeing with what people are saying I reckon it's to do with over training/lack of rest. Back to back days at the gym in work are draining me of life...

Monday: Lunch Session:
12 Wide Grip Pullups, 10 Dips, 10 Bicep Curls (15kg), 10 Tricep Curls (L&R 12.6kg)

Weighted Deadhangs (3 finger open hand on bottom rock ring pocket):

Progressive Set:
5kg - 10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs, 10kg - 10secs

Main Set:
12.5kg
Set 1 - 6secs, Set 2 - 7secs, Set 3 - 8secs

3 x 10 Bentover Reverse Flys (15kg)
3 x 10 Leg Raises

Tuesday: Lunch Session:
12 Widegrip Pullups, 10 Dips, 10 Bicep Curls (15kg), 10 Tricep Curls (L&R 12.5kg)

6 x 10 Off-Set Pull Ups

3 x 10 Good Mornings (23kg)
3 x 10 Bentover Reverse Flys (15kg)

Pulled my back somehow back...

Wednesday: Lunch Session:
12 Wide Grip Pullups, 10 Dips, 10 Bicep Curls (15kg), 10 Tricep Curls (L&R 12.5kg)

3 x 10 Dumbell Flys (12.5kg)
3 x 10 Tricep Kickbacks (12.5kg)
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
3 x 10 Dumbbell Bentover Rows (17.5kg)

Thursday: Boardroom Indoor Routes:
Warmup - 6a and 6a+
Failed on 6c twice
Failed on another 6c ~10 times
Failed on a 6b+

Then took 3 goes to repeat the 6c on the Piscobloc wall.

Friday: Rest

Saturday: First time checking out the bouldering at Crafnant. Amazing place with amazing boulders but the whole place was wet through...

Only one problem was dry-ish. a 6A+/B called "Breakaway". The name said it all as we pulled about 10 quartzy holds off between us. Worked out the sitter which is 6C/+ and then my mate pulled one of the crucial holds off the stand so I didn't get the sitter ticked.

Went to the pub for lunch instead...

Sunday: Rest/ill

   :o That sure is a lot of training! I'd usually climb a few grades above 6c down the wall, however if I'd done all those weights I'm not sure I'd be able to climb a flight of stairs by the end of the week! You gotta allow some recovery for maximum gains otherwise end up burnt out.


Luke Owens

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   :o That sure is a lot of training! I'd usually climb a few grades above 6c down the wall, however if I'd done all those weights I'm not sure I'd be able to climb a flight of stairs by the end of the week! You gotta allow some recovery for maximum gains otherwise end up burnt out.

Haha, yeah, you're right. I was completely burnt out by the end of last week (After having about 8 weeks of the same training week volume) and I got ill.

This week i've done nothing from Mon - Wed and tonight i'm going to the wall. Although i've been recovering from being ill I'm sure the rest has done good.

shark

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I'll not do a run down of last week but instead I did a baseline session on the BM on Sunday
Current best efforts:
One armer* (L and R) on deep biodoigt's on middle row (can fairly comfortably dead hang for 10secs)
One armer* (R only) on shallower biodoigt's on middle row (can just about dead hang for 10secs)
Brief dead hang (L) on shallower biodoigt's on middle row
Very very brief dead hang (L only) on slopey mono's and first joint mono's
Probably should be able to match the mono hanging action on my R but have a bit of a forearm strain which doesn't massively affect my grip on multi-finger holds but feels 'wrong' on mono's, frustrating.

 :wall:

I resign.


webbo

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Mon. Nothing. Felt battered from Sunday.
Tues.  Board did one of my projects and repeated a couple of things.
Wed. Nothing.
Thurs. drive round most of North Lincolnshire to get home due to flooding. Board session doing 6 problems 4 times tried using screw on footholds rather bolt ons struggled like hell.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Board worked out a couple of problems using an udercut which to start felt impossible but went ok in the end. Bike 2hhr 45 mins.
Sun. Hanging doors all morning, then weights. Followed by climbing up down the tree outside fitting Christmas lights, highest I've been in years.   

Boredboy

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   :o That sure is a lot of training! I'd usually climb a few grades above 6c down the wall, however if I'd done all those weights I'm not sure I'd be able to climb a flight of stairs by the end of the week! You gotta allow some recovery for maximum gains otherwise end up burnt out.

Haha, yeah, you're right. I was completely burnt out by the end of last week (After having about 8 weeks of the same training week volume) and I got ill.

This week i've done nothing from Mon - Wed and tonight i'm going to the wall. Although i've been recovering from being ill I'm sure the rest has done good.

A good few years ago I would often overtrain in the way you described and found myself burning out and hitting performance plateau's pretty quickly. As a rule of thumb these days if I'm training power I try to finish fresh in a session, keep any thrashing around on boulders when tired to a minimum and have a good 48hrs break between sessions. The same goes for an-cap or pe or whatever. Endurance I'd prob do a 2 days together at a push but prob def not mix that up with power and weights on back to back days. An average week for me is:

Sun: Rest
Mon: Rest or core or minimalist volume  finger board max efforts 30-40 mins 5 min rests.
Tue: Boulder / 45deg board mix 2hrs max efforts 5-10 mins rests
Wed:Rest
Thurs: Rest or core 30 mins
Fri: Crag bouldering
Sat: Crag or rest.

Seem to getting a steady improvement in power. Not training when got a cold etc. No weights apart from weighted dead hangs. Built up gradually over 3-6 months. The key for me definitely seems to be not training to exhaustion or when to tired and keeping it as specific as possible.

tomtom

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2013 totals:
Outdoor: 108
Indoor: 3
Training: 8
New Grade 7's 21

A crap post - busy week away with work...
Two weeks worth in one... outside 5 times, two visits to Sauvito (failed) good trip to Higgar with 3T, and a couple of decent sessions at BBGw...

Sasquatch

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   :o That sure is a lot of training! I'd usually climb a few grades above 6c down the wall, however if I'd done all those weights I'm not sure I'd be able to climb a flight of stairs by the end of the week! You gotta allow some recovery for maximum gains otherwise end up burnt out.

Haha, yeah, you're right. I was completely burnt out by the end of last week (After having about 8 weeks of the same training week volume) and I got ill.

This week i've done nothing from Mon - Wed and tonight i'm going to the wall. Although i've been recovering from being ill I'm sure the rest has done good.

A good few years ago I would often overtrain in the way you described and found myself burning out and hitting performance plateau's pretty quickly. As a rule of thumb these days if I'm training power I try to finish fresh in a session, keep any thrashing around on boulders when tired to a minimum and have a good 48hrs break between sessions. The same goes for an-cap or pe or whatever. Endurance I'd prob do a 2 days together at a push but prob def not mix that up with power and weights on back to back days.

Pretty much agree with all that.  Only thing I'd add is that over time you CAN build up to a high volume of daily training and performance, but it takes a LONG time(years) and you have to be willing to make the short term sacrifice in performance for a potential long-term benefit. 

nik at work

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 :wall:

I resign.
What have I done wrong Shark?

Luke Owens

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A good few years ago I would often overtrain in the way you described and found myself burning out and hitting performance plateau's pretty quickly. As a rule of thumb these days if I'm training power I try to finish fresh in a session, keep any thrashing around on boulders when tired to a minimum and have a good 48hrs break between sessions. The same goes for an-cap or pe or whatever. Endurance I'd prob do a 2 days together at a push but prob def not mix that up with power and weights on back to back days. An average week for me is:

Sun: Rest
Mon: Rest or core or minimalist volume  finger board max efforts 30-40 mins 5 min rests.
Tue: Boulder / 45deg board mix 2hrs max efforts 5-10 mins rests
Wed:Rest
Thurs: Rest or core 30 mins
Fri: Crag bouldering
Sat: Crag or rest.

Seem to getting a steady improvement in power. Not training when got a cold etc. No weights apart from weighted dead hangs. Built up gradually over 3-6 months. The key for me definitely seems to be not training to exhaustion or when to tired and keeping it as specific as possible.

Cheers, thanks for the advice. I went to the wall last night after 4 days rest and I felt 100 times fitter than I usually do in there. Routes I found hard and powered out on previously felt easy...!

As much as I won't make a habit of having 4 days off I'll definitely try resting more.

shark

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 :wall:

I resign.
What have I done wrong Shark?

Nothing - far from it.

Just hammered home that I should take something that I'm more naturally suited to like drinking

abarro81

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Don't worry, I can't do any of that shit either.

Dolly

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Power club question.
I feel a bit under the weather, sore throat, headache etc.
I did about 10-12 easy routes last night, might do a core sess at the gym later.
Intend to do nothing tomorrow and illness permitting get back on eatswood Traverse on Sunday


So...do I beastmake this lunchtime for a bit ?
Not interested in long term ATM, just should I leave it to get better for Sunday ?




shark

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Power club question.
I feel a bit under the weather, sore throat, headache etc.
I did about 10-12 easy routes last night, might do a core sess at the gym later.
Intend to do nothing tomorrow and illness permitting get back on eatswood Traverse on Sunday


So...do I beastmake this lunchtime for a bit ?
Not interested in long term ATM, just should I leave it to get better for Sunday ?

I would deadhang at lunchtime and sack off the core session.

Dolly

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Yeah will do ta

T_B

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So...do I beastmake this lunchtime for a bit ?


I've been similarly under the weather. Did a BM sess on monday but found I didn't have the psyche. I'd do nowt or just have a potter about.

abarro81

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I would rest today and do v. short session tomorrow - basically just warm up to max strength then stop. This shit is quite individual though. I find double rest days leave me lacking snap but if the 2nd day involves, e.g. 20-30min doing some 1armers and deadhangs then I'm 'on it like a car bonnet' the day after. I heard Jerry used to do the same with a 30min campus session on 2nd 'rest' day (which is where I got the idea from). Don't do anything with big muscles involved if you're feeling ill IMO.

tomtom

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Power club question.
I feel a bit under the weather, sore throat, headache etc.
I did about 10-12 easy routes last night, might do a core sess at the gym later.
Intend to do nothing tomorrow and illness permitting get back on eatswood Traverse on Sunday


So...do I beastmake this lunchtime for a bit ?
Not interested in long term ATM, just should I leave it to get better for Sunday ?

Go to the pub instead. :)

Dolly

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Thanks for the replies
I'm too tired and aching to do anything.
I'm going to study the inside of my eyelids from the office sofa for a bit

Luke Owens

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Thanks for the replies
I'm too tired and aching to do anything.
I'm going to study the inside of my eyelids from the office sofa for a bit

Good call.

I was in the same situation today:

Feel a bit under the weather, sore throat, headache etc.
I also did about 10 easy routes last night.
Wasn't sure whether to train this lunch time and did...

Did some weighted deadhangs and they felt pretty good, made me feel more alive!

Think I would of prefered a sleep though come to think of it...

Sasquatch

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I would rest today and do v. short session tomorrow - basically just warm up to max strength then stop. This shit is quite individual though. I find double rest days leave me lacking snap but if the 2nd day involves, e.g. 20-30min doing some 1armers and deadhangs then I'm 'on it like a car bonnet' the day after. I heard Jerry used to do the same with a 30min campus session on 2nd 'rest' day (which is where I got the idea from). Don't do anything with big muscles involved if you're feeling ill IMO.
:agree:

Stu Littlefair

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#47 UKB Power Club Week 199 2nd Dec - 8th Dec
December 13, 2013, 07:21:55 pm
Edit:wrong thread.

 

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