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UKB Power Club Week 199 2nd Dec - 8th Dec (Read 14629 times)

shark

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UKB Power Club Week 199 2nd Dec - 8th Dec
December 08, 2013, 06:49:41 pm
11.7-8

M.Eve. Foundry. Short of time - bit of bouldering and campusing.
T.
W.AM Pre breakfast weighted deadhangs. Think fingers a little slippy from putting on antihydral the night before. Did Front 3 on BM slots (hold10)as usual 4x35kg at 6,6,7 and 6 secs. Not bad but hoped for better ie a PB.
Eve. Assisted one arm / pullup session
T.
F.
S.PM with Tom. Gardoms gopping - serves me right for trying somewhere different - so went to eatswood. Primo. Cheque  there. Shortish session. Did all moves on second half of Reverse.
S.PM on tod. Hard to stay warm with wind blowing across the crag. Linked first half of Reverse and worked a few moves on last bit but a bit tired by then. Left pads with Sherpa Dolly

Eased back a bit this week on basis of three harder weeks then one easier one. Reverse coming together nicely. Aim to do it in two halves next visit. 

csl

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Dec
Climb 3x a week 2/3
Climb V8 indoors - feel like I'm getting a little better, if not stronger.
Get on a rope @ Westway
Get outside once
Run - done this week

Mon - Biscuit Factory to try the new set on the Comp Wall. Did 6 of them between 5+ and 6c+. Had a few goes on a couple of others, fell from the last hold of another font 6c+.
Tue
Wed
Thu - Biscuit Factory. Comp wall again, flashed a slopery font 6c+. Fell from last move on the flash of a font 7a. Did a few more of the easier ~ 6b/+ ish problems. Fell off last hold before matching on long roof Red, again...
Fri
Sat- 8km 39 mins - I am unfit and ill.
Sun- Meant to go to Biscuit again today, but just spent all day working.

Muenchener

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STG (2013): not have flu
MTG (Spring 2014) 7a redpoint. Two hundred practice falls by Easter - currently: 10
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M: still ill
T: somewhat less ill. Managed 40 minutes stretching & knee physio exercises
W: ditto
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Short convalescent bouldering session
F: 40 minutes mobility, core, stretching
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Another not particularly focused, getting back into it after illness session.
    Christmas party/AGM of my DAV group. Pencilled in dates for Oberreintal and Sella Pass, so that's two of my main alpine goals for next year already covered (weather permitting).
S:

masonwoods101

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I've decided to start posting on the power club to try and motivate my self to train... also its apparently good to write down your aims...
STG (winter) - climb a 7c, do more 7b+'s
MTG (2014) - consolidate 7c, get some classics in font. climb more in mallorca
LTG - 8a?

monday - mope about after getting shutdown at rowtor on sunday
tuesday - hour on fingerboard, pull ups, repeaters, easy deadhangs. theraband exercises.
wednesday - theraband stuff
thursday - matrix session making up my own stuff. focusing on long moves, front on stuff
friday - theraband
saturday - staff doo then sit...
sunday - literally nothing.

thanks for reading  :coffee:

JackAus

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STG: Finger recovery then V7
LTG: V11

M: AM Run. PM Bike 4hrs.
T: AM Run
W: AM: Work.
PM: Warm. Cleaning at new roof/cave area 15min away. Cleaned up 2 new lines about V5/6 and V8. Really fun roof climbing on pockets, funky 360 climbing, double toe hooks everything. Will be very good lines when they go.
T: Work.
F: Hot. Highball session at local sport crag. Probably the most climbed at crag in the state, so very polished. Had a few lines in mind because they are so short, landings were not good at all though... Stacked my pads under a overhanging wall right on the edge of another drop, definitely would've missed the pads if I fell topping out. Ended up doing a 18 (5+) and a 20 (6b). Both about 6-7m high, very slippery, topping out on both felt horrible. Very nearly came off top of the 6b.
Shows how little I do routes, 6b was the hardest I've ever done on a rope... 18 months ago.... :D
S: Work.
S:

Finger feels like its slowly improving. It always feels horrible after I climb but I'm still trying to avoid anything vaguely small (but I have found that I can completely open hand without much pain at all...).

Also found the location of a massive overhang/cave that hopefully will have loads of route potential so will try and check it out this week.
And already been out this morning for a few hours dws-ing... Already hot and the water was perfect... Cleaning out big spiders from important pockets in a roof 10m up wasn't fun though!

T_B

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85Kg

M - Foundry lunch. Circuits on the board. Working out a new circuit.
T - Foundry lunch. Fingerboard - failed on 5 back 3. Did 6 x 7 half-crimped on BM lower rung twice. 80 press ups and crunches
W -
T -  Foundry Lunch. Threw in a light campus session. No pull. Couldn't do 1-4-7. Did 1-5-8 on big rungs both arms. P.M. Works - foot-on campussing, a few travs and then a couple of problems on skips. Tired!
F -
S - Works. Tried a couple of white problems on the roof and skips. Had no pull/strength in fingers.

Feels like I'm heading into a trough, which is not surprising after 10 weeks of training. Also still have a bit of a cold. Thursday's experiment of a two-session day probably wasn't well timed, as I felt tired on Saturday and had a pretty rubbish session. Will ease off a bit this week...

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my MTG is now getting to be the STG ;)  huzzah!

not the best week, still have a bit of cold following last couple of weeks flu but getting better all the time.

M - core 101/stretches
T - core 101/stretches
W - commute bike 20 miles / fingerboard 1 hour with beastmaker app
T - commute bike 20 miles / fingerboard 1 hour with beastmaker app
F - indoor session did all bar one of their new oranges, most flashes a couple not
S - watched newcastle kick man u's bottom. 
S - quick indoor session to complete oranges i missed friday and look at the blacks, completed oranges in full.  looked at their comp set.

still feels like a 'holding pattern' week for me coming out of the flu.  Shold kick off again properly on Saturday. 

Evil

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STG - Going to Spain in January, want to be fit for wherever the sun is. Don't have a plan for exactly where yet, so difficult to set a very specific goal right now.
M/LTG - I guess outside 7a and f6c would be good goals.

M - cycling commute 16 miles total. Evening 10 minute fingerboard thing (pullups, L-sits, hangs etc)
T - cycling commute 16 miles total. Evening at the wall routes - 4+, 5+, 6b+, 6c+ (top rope to check it out fell about the 2nd to last move really pumped), 6c (two goes, got it 2nd time), 6b. Climbing as a 3 at the beginning, so not as many routes as usual. Pleased to get the 6c as it was a leading ladder route, and they are usually quite hard for the grade given.
W - cycling commute 16 miles total. Lunchtime 5k (28m10sec) in the park incorporating dips and pullups at the bits of equipment in the park.
T - cycling commute 16 miles total. Then cycled 6 miles each way to visit my mum in the evening. Managed a set of 7 L-sit pullups when I got back.
F - Morning circuit - jump squats, pushups, planks, dumbbell rows, etc. Quick climb after work - routes at the wall - 4+, 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6c, 6b+, 6c+ (top rope last one surprised myself by being able to do all moves on this; tried it when it was first set, and really struggled, but my partner was trying the 6c on the same line, so I figured I'd have another look at it. Will try leading it next time. One of my friends climbing next to me commented that I was looking strong. Probably need to believe this myself and go for things a bit more!).
S - 6 mile walk with the pup. Did some dips and pullups as this park also has some bars. Managed a set of 10 dips which is I think a pb. Have always found these much harder than pullups. Afternoon bouldering at the wall - Vanquished the evil V3 I tried last week. Phew! Touched last hold on V4 (that counts...right?!). On a new bit, flashed another V3, and did a V4 in a few tries for the first move which needed weirdness for the short. Then had a quick go on a new roof set. Did V2, first half of a long V5, Got a bit stuck 2/3rds of the way through. Got stuck on 1 move on a V4 there too.
S - 5 miles walking in Epping Forest with the dog. Afternoon - quick session at the wall before closing. Did a V4 in 3 tries, bumbled around not doing some other stuff, then did the first 2/3rds of the roof V5 again, but still stuck on the same couple of moves. Flashed the long V3 going the other way to make myself feel better, and finished with some campusing. Evening - elbow exercises. Only done these once this week, intention is to do it twice a week really.

Dolly

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M
T Foundry lunchtime. Felt tired so did some level 2s I hadnt done
W Core sess @ the gym and some aerobic
T Shed for the first time in ages. God it was hard. Its all very well doing problems on real rock and all that but it doesn't prepare you for shedpower
F Core sess @ the gym and some aerobic.
S Long slow run but without the long part
S Went to the plantation but was very wet. Ended up making a long drive to eatswood as I decided to go through Matlock for some reason which took ages. Happy to see the Sharkmobile in the layby. Got some excellent detailed beta from him on the traverse so it now feels doable. Could have done with another hour there really but happy with the progress. I tried to get Shark to say that he loves grit as he was speaking with such enthusiasm about the traverse. He admitted to liking it but not loving it. Still a WIP



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Hi all, long-time lurker so I've eventually decided to join. I'm doing exams at the moment and could do with a training boost.

STG: 7b+ while in Spain over new year.
MTG: 7B outdoors some time this bouldering season.

M
T: max bouldering, core and max hangs in the evening. After ages going backwards on BM small crimps I may be making some progress, 3x8sec with 10kg and getting better on the 35deg slopers, easy with 20kg.
W: pre-Spain power endurance, a few 4x4s and some foot on campusing but I'm irredeemably shit at this. I can't remember what my baseline was exactly but I've only gotten slightly better in 10 weeks of it. Maybe i should switch to something else.
T
F: more or less same as Tues evening.
S
S: indoor routes, did moves on a 7c first go but definitely don't have endurance to link it. 7b+ close-ish to onsight, but on not so steep ground which I'm better at.

No outdoors because of limited time with university exams starting tomorrow

tommytwotone

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LTG: Font 7b

M: No chance of climbing as wrist still totally knackered so went for a run on lunch. First one in over a year, 5.5 miles in 45 minutes which I was pretty happy with.
T: Gym on lunch - bit feckless and demotivated, sacked it after 40 mins.
W: Lost patience with wrist so went climbing in eve. Managed about 40 mins before realising I was just aggravating my wrist.
T: Gym on lunch - better session including a repeat of my kettlebell Turkish Getup PB. Works Xmas do in the evening.
F: Nowt. Hungover all day.
S: All day at NCT class, then watching Strictly while babysitting other half's nieces.  :punk:
S: Depot session in the morning, focused on volume with little rest - did c. 50 easy (V0-V4) problems, 10 secs max rest inbetween. Went home and made a roast chicken dinner afterwards.



SA Chris

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S: All day at NCT class, then watching Strictly while babysitting other half's nieces.  :punk:

Good training! And accumulating BS credits!

When little one arrives watchout for carrying them in an awkward way, I got a wrist strain from doing it, not the first person I've heard of doing it either. 

nai

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I'm out for a while, motivation has deserted me, attempts to push through are proving fruitless.

shark

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I'm out for a while, motivation has deserted me, attempts to push through are proving fruitless.

Keep ticking over with deadhanging at least. That way there will be a smaller hole to climb out of when the psyche returns - which it will.

Grubes

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this the elbow issues still nai?

fried

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Mah..

Monday - Session stopped early due to elbow pain, I know the pain and I just have to stop.
Tuesday - Thursday - Too much work.
Friday - Session stopped short to back ache just as I was starting to think my back was almost back to normal it starts aching again.
Saturday - Supposed to be dry, so I ccan get out tomorrow but it rains.
Sunday - Nothing, refuse to leave the house, drink tea and watch cooking programmes.

Weight around 75.2kg

Sasquatch

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M - Repeaters, run 5mi
T - Bike 45min, Str Conditioning
W - Repeaters, Run 5mi
Th - Aerocap-45min, Run3mi, Str Conditioning
F - Boulder Gym 48 Problems up to 7B
Sat - Repeaters, Run 4mi, Climb and Boulder at Gym-18 Problems 7A-7B, then 4 routes 7a-7b.
Sun - Easy 30 min ride

Full and hard week, but felt pretty good throughout till saturday night, when we ended up getting home at 4am... :)

nai

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this the elbow issues still nai?

Wrist/arm/finger, yes.

I'm out for a while, motivation has deserted me, attempts to push through are proving fruitless.

Keep ticking over with deadhanging at least. That way there will be a smaller hole to climb out of when the psyche returns - which it will.

Can't deadhang or even do pullups, aggravates my wrist/arm/finger. Having to stick to stuff that doesn't which amounts to easy stuff. Probably part of the motivational problem, should be psyched to tick off a load of the trad stuff I've missed over the years but somehow I'm not.

Sasquatch

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Can't deadhang or even do pullups, aggravates my wrist/arm/finger. Having to stick to stuff that doesn't which amounts to easy stuff. Probably part of the motivational problem, should be psyched to tick off a load of the trad stuff I've missed over the years but somehow I'm not.

Do fingerlocks?  A LONG time ago, I was young and stupid and got some pretty bad combo tendonitis/finger issues, and ended up training finger locks.  Could be something ?

nai

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It's an idea but given that pullups aren't on I'm not sure. I'm lifting weights and going running both of which I'm quite enjoying.  I'm sure I'll fancy climbing sooner or later and start addressing the long list of Peak trad classics I'm yet to do.
Being fit, healthy and motivated to train for next year's sport season come Feb/Mar is pretty much top of the priority list at the moment so getting the arm sorted and being able to crimp with my left hand would be a big bonus.

cheque

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I'm out for a while, motivation has deserted me, attempts to push through are proving fruitless.

Sorry to hear this nai.

STG- 7A in a session, 7A+ sieged on grit this season.

M- Old-school strength session based on Eddies' beastly "room routine". 3 sets of 10 pull-ups, 10 bicep curls on each arm with 10kg and 30 pushups. 15 minutes rest in between each set. Felt hard but good. now up to same volume as Eddies, just need to increase weight on bicep curls and reduce rest times.

T- Rest. Sore! Bought more weights so I can get more than 10kg on a dumbbell.

W- DOMS all day. Swimming in evening, which I'm finding to be a great cure for this (missed off that I swam last Wednesday as well). Counted laps for the first time- 30 lengths non-stop then a few more being coached by mermaid-like girlfriend.

T- Notts Depot. New pink comp circuit- did 23 of them with 20 flashes- best performance ever in first session by quite a long way.

F- Rest.

S- eatswood after finding Cocking Tor to be comically soaked. Good crowd of fellow dryness-seekers. :wave: First look at the famous traverse- looks to have some great moves on it but I concentrated on ticking off the easy problems on the (only dry) buttress then working the skin-wrecking-nub-centric Ten Inch Zombies. Got the knack to what I'm assuming is the last hard move but couldn't figure it out. Quite psyched to return for this and the traverse- weird I'd never been before considering it's proximity to Notts really.

S- Curbar. Didn't expect good conditions but it was great, thanks largely to insane winds that saw me get winded by an airborne pad to the gut at one point!  :sick: Worked productively on a number of cool problems as my mate dispatched them all, highballed Black Nix Wall then ticked Trackside as the sun set. Ace day and first 7 of the season.  :dance1:

Really feeling like my concentration on grit bouldering has hit paydirt this weekend- climbing well and confidently and really enjoying the style and the rock. Feeling really quite psyched for some grit trad in the spring too.

duncan

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STG - Don’t get injured; ease into finger training.
MTG - 7b RP this winter; E5 OS next spring.

csl wrote: "... Have you anything in mind for a 7b redpoint this winter?". Nothing specific and open to suggestions. Cheddar, Brean or Dorset for logistic reasons. Not too steep, technical, and sustained rather than bouldery would give me a better chance of success. I've had a brief play on 'Ripe Old Age' which seemed appropriate if only for the name.

LTG - LH&F BHAGs in Yosemite and Alps summer 2014 and 15.

M -
T - Westway routes: 24 x 5+ to 6b
W - Shoulder stability, stretches; 30 mins hill run.
T - Shoulder stability, stretches.
F - Deadhangs (pull-up bar, beastmaker no.5 slots).
S - Shoulder stability, stretches.
S - Biscuit: bouldering (15 x Blue ie easy; 5 x Green ie not quite so easy)


72.3Kg.

Decent training week. Cold lingers so no building site work and just one slow run. Finger still not 100% but definitely training rather than rehabilitating. Old boys trip to Siurana next April booked. :)

This week will be mainly spent in a hotel in Bahrain. It has a gym but the only wall is in the US navy base. Heading for Tenerife next Sunday for 3 weeks. No goals at present, probably just focus on getting lots of mileage and perhaps try something a bit harder towards the end. 
« Last Edit: December 09, 2013, 08:31:31 pm by duncan »

Duma

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STG - fix finger
MTG - keep niggles in check, run regularly, get out more. If I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M - TCA in eve for 3hrs, basically I'm an idiot, and despite chatting to people about this being the time I'm most likely to reinjure my fingure (as it feels like it's finally getting better), played on hard stuff all evening and unsuprisingly finger feels back to where it was 3 weeks ago.  :slap:
T -
W -
T -
F -
S - Dartmoor for day, despite lovely forecast was largely wet and got wetter. Managed Rippled Wall and The Wave before it completely crapped out, and mulled cider in front of the fire in the Old Inn meant a not entirely wasted day.
S -
 
70kg.

iain

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STG: A very long list of grit classics, many doable, a lot motivational
MTG: Spring trad and sport
LTG: see stg, and Infinite Gravity. again  ::)

Had a bit of an impromptu break from climbing last few weeks including a non climbing holiday. Have been to the wall a couple of times but last night was the first time in a while I wanted to be there and try hard.

Somewhere in the last few weeks I had a trip to Bamford. Did a few things then tried Ping Pong Pocket Rib after turning down the kind offer of beta (hello if you're on here Rob). Spent ages trying to span between holds that were just a little too far apart thinking that was how it went and had the eureka moment to go straight up just as it got too cold and dark to keep trying. Good problem, one to go back for.

Luke Owens

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Got ill towards the end of last week most probably due to over training, going to take it easy this week.

Posted a thread about being powered out on indoor routes here:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=23330.0

Agreeing with what people are saying I reckon it's to do with over training/lack of rest. Back to back days at the gym in work are draining me of life...

Monday: Lunch Session:
12 Wide Grip Pullups, 10 Dips, 10 Bicep Curls (15kg), 10 Tricep Curls (L&R 12.6kg)

Weighted Deadhangs (3 finger open hand on bottom rock ring pocket):

Progressive Set:
5kg - 10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs, 10kg - 10secs

Main Set:
12.5kg
Set 1 - 6secs, Set 2 - 7secs, Set 3 - 8secs

3 x 10 Bentover Reverse Flys (15kg)
3 x 10 Leg Raises

Tuesday: Lunch Session:
12 Widegrip Pullups, 10 Dips, 10 Bicep Curls (15kg), 10 Tricep Curls (L&R 12.5kg)

6 x 10 Off-Set Pull Ups

3 x 10 Good Mornings (23kg)
3 x 10 Bentover Reverse Flys (15kg)

Pulled my back somehow back...

Wednesday: Lunch Session:
12 Wide Grip Pullups, 10 Dips, 10 Bicep Curls (15kg), 10 Tricep Curls (L&R 12.5kg)

3 x 10 Dumbell Flys (12.5kg)
3 x 10 Tricep Kickbacks (12.5kg)
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
3 x 10 Dumbbell Bentover Rows (17.5kg)

Thursday: Boardroom Indoor Routes:
Warmup - 6a and 6a+
Failed on 6c twice
Failed on another 6c ~10 times
Failed on a 6b+

Then took 3 goes to repeat the 6c on the Piscobloc wall.

Friday: Rest

Saturday: First time checking out the bouldering at Crafnant. Amazing place with amazing boulders but the whole place was wet through...

Only one problem was dry-ish. a 6A+/B called "Breakaway". The name said it all as we pulled about 10 quartzy holds off between us. Worked out the sitter which is 6C/+ and then my mate pulled one of the crucial holds off the stand so I didn't get the sitter ticked.

Went to the pub for lunch instead...

Sunday: Rest/ill
« Last Edit: December 10, 2013, 08:50:56 am by Luke Owens »

 

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