[csl]

Goals for Nov

Climb 3x a week 2/3
Climb V8 indoors not done
Get on a rope @ Westway not done
Outdoor sport day - Brean/Portland/Swanage not done.
Biscuit comp - didnt go, Work christmas party.
Run 2x a week 1/2 - still not finding the time. Heading out for one today.

Mon - nothing
Tue - Biscuit Factory - tendon in arm still feeling strange. Did all 30 of blue circuit v2-3 in about 45 minutes.
Wed - Evening. Biscuit. Did some of the Green v2-4's i hadn't done. Repeated some hendrix v4-6. Did one of the gb training problems on the comp wall , V6ish? Tried yellow's on comp wall. Did each in halves, both V6ish?
Thu - nothing
Fri - nothing
Sat - nothing
Sun - run, 5km

December

Climb 3x a week
Climb V8 indoors
Get on a rope @ Westway
Get outside once
Run

[shark]

11.7-10

Winter goals: Front 3 deadhang on BM slots 3x10secs with +40kg. eatswood Reverse/Circuit. Burn ThreeNine off on the Wave.

M. Pre breakfast weighted deadhang session. Eve. Short of time so did a bit of campusing at Foundry
T. Eve. Foundry with Poppy. Poor, short session failing on hard level2's between belays
W.
T. PM Weighted deadhangs - good session
F. Eve. Wave. Good 2 hour session - got to work on green/black spots on left of steep section.
S. All day BMC meeting - does this count as stamina training?
S. PM. Weighted deadhangs - great session 3x10sec @ 32.5kg on front 3 on BM slots

Good week - stepped things up a bit. Shame not to have been outside to see the sunsets that everyone has photographed.    Good result on the weighted deadhangs this afternoon so virtually back up to full finger strength which has taken 3 weeks to achieve after post-Kalymnos layoff. Feel optimistic that there is more in the tank so hope to get a PB in the next few sessions.

[fried]

Woke up on Monday morning and realised that I'd slightly sprained my wrist on Sunday's trip to the forest. Not too painful, but can't put any weight on it.

Monday-Thursday - Rest
Friday - Indoor, wrist O.K, but was a bit tweaky on crimps so took it very easily.
Saturday - Nothing
Sunday - Was planning to go outside, but got up late and the weather looked unpredictable, I honestly coudn't be bothered to go and get the car. Indoor, wrist fine, did a few problems that I didn't finish on Friday. Back stuff + weights.

[Muenchener]

STG (2013): not have flu
MTG (Spring 2014) 7a redpoint. Two hundred practice falls by Easter - currently: 10
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

sick child, sick self

M - F:
S - S: perfect climbing weather; mostly in bed. One of those flu states where you can aspirin yourself into an illusion of feeling ok, until you actually try to move or do anything. Just about managed some long-overdue repotting of house plants.

[shark]

S. PM. Weighted deadhangs - great session 3x10sec @ 32.5kg on front 3 on BM slots

The 5's?

Yes.

[JackAus]

STG: Finger recovery then V7.
LTG: V11

M:
T: Run AM.
W:
T: Epic trek/thrash though very dense bush searching for local granite. 4 hours in and I decided to turn back, got back in 2 hrs... Took a GPS with me to track where I walked (I had a map and knew where I was aiming), chucked it in to google earth when i got home and I didn't even get close to where I was aiming for... Like, REALLY not even close... I mean 4-5km away from the EDGE of where I wanted to explore.... So much bush bashing...
I did, however, find a new sandstone boulder crag on the drive home. Found some amazing lines on brilliant orange rock...
F: Run AM. Worked late.
S: Work arvo. Couple of drinks after.
S: Fuck all. Felt like poo.

Pretty shit week for climbing. Didn't actually pull on to anything. My finger is still sore (constantly). And I'm just getting more and more frustrated at it. 

[T_B]

85.2 Kg (fully off the wagon and been troughing  )

M - Foundry lunch. Some traversing and circuits. Crap. Bit ill.
T - Foundry lunch. Fingerboard - 6 x 7 open back and front (twice) 3 on Moon. 6 x 7 half-crimped on BM #10. A PB! 60 press ups and 60 crunches. Quality sess.
W - Foundry lunch. Foot-on campussing. 3 x 1 minutes, then 3 x 2 minutes (pumped on final circuit). AeroPow? (I.e. Long resistance)
T - Works P.M. Bit of bouldering on comp wall, then traverses on the circuit board. Finished with 40mins of foot-on campussing (4 x 1.5 mins with 4 min rests)
F -
S -
S - Home fingerboard. Repeaters. Failed on 5 on front 3 and back 3. 2 sets of half-crimped. Working front levers - fairly horizontal for about a second. 60 press ups.

Hard week for motivation as been a bit ill and kids ill too. Way too much eating. Nearly didn't do the Sunday evening sess. Still, 5 separate sessions and surprised myself on the front levers as this is the first time in ages I've really tried to do one. Not really sure what I'm doing with the resistance training and whether 1 minute, 1.5 minutes or 2 minutes and how much rest. The idea is to replicate a shortish sport route.

[Ti_pin_man]

82 kilo's
Goal: 7a by Xmas

Having had manflu for last two weeks training almost stopped, just tried to do what I could but with lots of rest.  This two week delay has moved my goal out to 7a indoors by mid Jan.  However yesterday I managed 3 F6c+ and 1 F6c which was a nice surprise, unexpected.  I had to work the starts but got them. 

Huzzah!  Maybe a 7a by Xmas isnt far away. 

The hardest thing so far has been sticking to the plan of upping the grade each month by one and keeping to plan,especially with a shit cold.

[shark]

6 x 7 half-crimped on BM #10. A PB!

Do you deliberately half crimp or prefer to half crimp them? Most drag/open hand them

6 x 7secs presumably - is that a repeater with short rests ?

[Dolly]

M Pilates

[Dolly]

Sorry didnt do that properly
M Pilates
T Foundry lunchtime trying and failing on lots of things. Run in the evening
W Core session at the gym
T
F The Wave again. More success this time - had a bit more time. Foolishly bet Andy Cave beer for life if he could flash a problem - just managed to change it to a pint before he stepped on and cruised it.
S Mates 50th do near Clitheroe. 
S Hungover and the worse for wear. Made it to Bridestones but a lot of the crag was wet - well on the bits I could manage to walk to. Did Cleopatra which was brilliant, but was properly shaky at the top.

[Evil]

STG - Going to Spain in January, want to be fit for wherever the sun is. Don't have a plan for exactly where yet, so difficult to set a very specific goal right now.
M/LTG - I guess outside 7a and f6c would be good goals.

M - Driving back from Scotland, spent the whole day driving and singing along to Absolute 90s radio.
T - Back to work - cycling commute 16 miles total. Evening climbing routes - 4+, 5, 6a+ (new), 6b (new, made a right mess of this, only tried it once), 6b+ (same routesetter, but flashed this one no problem), 6c (two goes, but one stopper move on this route), 6b+, 6a. Feeling tired after spending yesterday driving, and going back to work today.
W - cycling commute 16 miles total. Lunchtime 5k (27m58sec) in the park incorporating dips and pullups. They are much harder after running. Evening - elbow exercises.
T - cycling commute 16 miles total. Pub in the evening on the rum & cokes.
F - morning - Circuit thing mostly bodyweight with some dumbbell rows. V short climb after work routes - 4, 5, 6c (fluffed last move), 6b+.
S - Walked dog 6 miles-ish. Afternoon bouldering got caught up trying to get a crazy hard V3 that I thought I should be able to do. Got to last move, couldn't reach last hold. Got to last move of V4 next to it in 2 goes. This set has lots of jumping last moves. Argh. Did half a V5 that was first half crimpy, second half slopers.
S - Went to the biscuit for a change of scenery. Cycled down across Tower Bridge - lovely! Ran around doing loads of easyish problems and not trying the harder ones for long enough to get them. Left once my skin was too sore to continue. Evening - elbow exercises

[Duma]

STG - fix finger
MTG - keep niggles in check, run regularly, get out more. If I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M - finger felt tweaky after weekend, more easy stuff req. Afternoon: run 6m 50min, lush autumn leave scene going on.
T -
W - tca for hour at lunch, just easy bimbling while chatting to mate.
T -
F -
S -
S -
 
70kg.

Meh.

[T_B]

6 x 7 half-crimped on BM #10. A PB!

Do you deliberately half crimp or prefer to half crimp them? Most drag/open hand them

6 x 7secs presumably - is that a repeater with short rests ?

Yes, I deliberately half-crimp (I do open hangs on other holds on front 3). Yes, 6 reps of 7 secs with 3 second rests in-between.

[Muesli]

A good week,


Four days cycle commute. Three wall sessions, 4 evening exercise sessions, but only one board session as RH ring finger joint  and A2 pulley a bit sore.


weekly average 80.0 kg.....So time to set new target of  79 kg by end of month, only a modest loss but could be tricky over the festive season. Still weight now less than it has been for at least fifteen years and it feels good. 

[duncan]

STG - Don’t get injured; ease back into finger training.
MTG - 7b RP this winter; E5 OS next spring.
LTG - LH&F BHAGs in Yosemite and Alps summer 2014 and 15.

M - Micro fingerboard session (number 5s and pull-up bar).
T - Pull-ups.
W -
T - Biscuit Factory: bouldering (15 x Blacks ie very easy; 15 x Blue ie easy)
F - Shoulder stability stuff, stretches. Andras Schiff plays Bach at Wigmore Hall. 
S - Building site fitness. Drove to Somerset, gazing wistfully at the glorious blue sky from traffic carnage on the M4.
S - 45mins jogging after offspring on his bike. Drove home from Somerset. Pull-ups.

72.7Kg.

Still coughing green bits. Weight down slightly. Long-ish (for me) jog on Sunday was ill-advised and I have the sore hamstring to prove it. Shame to miss out on Saturday but was playing the long game and now have a 3 weeks pass for Yosemite next June. YYFY! Crossing fingers last summer’s Dolomite partner will be able to make it too. Old boys trip to Siurana next April looks like it will also be happening. Despite culturing a chest cold and not getting outside this felt like a fairly productive week (and not just of sputum).

Goals for Nov
...
Outdoor sport day - Brean/Portland/Swanage not done.

December
...
Get outside once

I'd like to be able to help but no more UK trips for 2013 I'm afraid. Keen to get to all these places in the new year.

[JackAus]

STG - fix finger
MTG - keep niggles in check, run regularly, get out more. If I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

FFS. Would you change that 8A to a STG already...
You climb like a beast, you just never try anything starting with an 8... Just get out there and crush something!

[nai]

M - 11km run
t  - weights
w - weights
t
F - 11km run
S - hour of not getting far on Suavito
s

Saw Steve at Hallamshire Physio on Tuesday, he reckons my finger/wrist/forearm isn't damaged but the anterior muscles are permanently locked on and everything's very stiff. He tortured me for an hour or so then gave me some exercises, stretches and massage to do. Ok to keep on climbing at a reduced level (not Suavito, that probably didn't do much good, forearms are still aching now).

[Duma]

STG - fix finger
MTG - keep niggles in check, run regularly, get out more. If I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

FFS. Would you change that 8A to a STG already...
You climb like a beast, you just never try anything starting with an 8... Just get out there and crush something!

 

[Sasquatch]

M - Rest
T - Run 3mi, Repeaters, Boulder at Hm for 1.5 hrs, Core
W - Rest/Sick
Th - Rest/Sick
F - 45min Cardio
S - Repeater
S - Boulder at Hm, 30 min Conditioning

Tough week.  Sick and way too much food....

[cheque]

STG: 7A in a session, 7A+ sieged on grit this season.

M- Rest.
T- Birthday day off gamble pays off as conditions are great on grit. Stanage AM- tried loads of hard problems with more experienced mate: no sends but felt good. Had about 10 goes on the Storm and despite it being 3 grades harder than I've ever climbed, I was making progress on on every try! Also got beta for the start of NTBTA that turns it into something I'm sure I can do rather than something that feels ridiculously tough for the grade. PM Curbar with mrjonathanr  Finally did Strawberries, which is a big confidence boost as it was the last of ticklist I made years ago. Progress on Trackside (consistently getting heel up now, just need to get body moving in the right way to use it) and Early Doors too. Ace day.
W- Rest. Very thin skin.
T- Amazing fingerboard session- set new max hang PBs on every hold and grip type.  As mentioned in the YYFY thread, I've suspected recently that letting my perma-tweaked ring fingers heal has made them stronger as well as (much) less painful. I'm taking this as confirmation. Absolutely delighted. 
F- Rest.
S- Caley. First visit:  very taken with the place. Primo conditions certainly helped. Did 12 problems using a new "maximum 30 minutes with the pads under any under one boulder" method borne partly from a desire to get as much done as possible, partly from a desire to get problems done quicker and commit more and partly from the necessity of stopping my girlfriend getting too cold sitting in one place. Consequently I didn't get anything hard done but virtually all I did was great quality. Mostly it was high, slabby and on the technical side, three things I've avoided for more than a year- felt really good.  Also met 205Chris 
S- Rest.

Seriously good week. Didn't tick anything harder than 6B+ but really feel like I've got the feel for grit climbing, more than I've ever had. Excellent skin to go with that too- I seem to be wearing it away without getting any splits etc. and consequently it's growing back really tough.

[andy popp]

Various commitments meant this was never going to be a great week, but it turned into a mini-disaster.

Mon: push-ups/core
Tues: Looking forward to a board session in the evening. Sat at work I realize I'm an hour late to pick up daughter. Sprinting across a dark car part my foot hits something sticking out of the ground and a take a flying wrist/chest plant on to the tarmac. It hurts and I feel like a dickhead. Oh, and it hurts. It seems OK when I first start climbing but rapidly gets worse as I start trying and I have to stop. V. painful all night.
Wed morning to Friday evening: work trip to Copenhagen, fun but knackering.
Sat-Sun: house guests.

So nowt done and I feel fat and debauched. Hope the chest will allow some climbing tonight.

[Luke Owens]

Monday: Rest

Tuesday:
12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups, 10 Dips, 10 Tricep Curls (L&R 12.5kg)

3 x 12 Bicep Curls (15kg)
3 x 10 Bentover Reverse Flys (15kg)
3 x 10 Leg Raises

Weighted Deadhangs (On bottom 3 finger rock ring pockets)

Progressive Set
2.5kg - 10secs, 5kg - 10secs, 7.5kg - 10 secs

Main Set
3 x 10kg - 10secs

Wednesday:
12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups, 10 Dips, 12 Bicep Curls (15kg)

4 x 10 Good Mornings (First set 20kg, 3 sets 30kg)
3 x 10 Bentover Reverse Flys (15kg)
2 x 10 Leg Raises
3 x 10 Weighted Lunges (35kg)

Rock Ring Pull-Ups
Set 1 - Lrg: 10reps, Med: 10reps, Sml: 4reps
Set 2 - Lrg: 10reps, Med: 10reps, Sml: 5reps

Thursday: Short session at The Boardroom
Did a load of problems from V1 - V4.

Managed the F6c on the Piscobloc wall. Happy with this, progress on steep ground!

Friday: Rest

Saturday: Back at The Sheep Pen

Finished off "Klem's Arete" (6B+) not an easy one for the grade. Classic problem!

Wrist still painful from last week but tried the "Toe Dragon/Dog Shooter Link" (7A+) made some progress and tried "Weight Watcher" (6C/+) which was absolutely nails did all the moves put couldn't link the cut loose iron cross...

Sunday: Rest

[webbo]

Mon. Turbo 1hour.
Tue. Board did a project in poor style, then worked and did 2 new problems. Dumbbell work out.
Wed. Turbo 1 hour.
Thu. Board. 15 problems to warm up, then 6 problems 4 times each.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Woodhouse scar on way to visit mother. Struggled a lot probably due trying to do everything from memory.
Sun. Board 15 problems to warm up then 6 problems 4 times each. Did 2 sets with screw on foot holds which made it quite hard. Dumbbell work out. Bike 3 hours. Bit of a mega training day.

[csl]

...

I'd like to be able to help but no more UK trips for 2013 I'm afraid. Keen to get to all these places in the new year.

No worries! I chose getting drunk over getting out last saturday anyway, so its my own fault really... Have you anything in mind for a 7b redpoint this winter?