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UKB Power Club Week 197 18th Nov - 24th Nov (Read 7934 times)

shark

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UKB Power Club Week 197 18th Nov - 24th Nov
November 24, 2013, 03:20:07 pm
11.7-10

M.
T. Eve Foundry with Poppy and friend. Did a few hangs and burnt ThreeNine off on the campus board - unfortunately this is way less impressive than you could possibly imagine
W.
T.
F. A waste of time meeting in Derbyshire was redeemed by a quick eatswood hit on way back. Lovely weather. Worked on last half of the traverse and first half of the Reverse. Fingers noticeably stronger than last year despite poor results on fingerboard of late. Did the first move of the reverse a couple of times which I don't think I did before. Got a decent sequence back to knee bar on the Reverse.
S. Lunch. Weighted deadhangs. Still rubbish - 10kg off best of a month ago. PM Foundry Wave whilst Poppy climbed with Spider Club. Problems have been reset. Did Pink up the middle of steep bit but shut down on the Pink to its right which has two minging slopers.
S.

Cold all week - just about over it now so can start stepping things up.

Plan this winter is to continue focus on basic strength gains with weighted hangs, more board sessions and bouldering on Wave and a bit of campusing. At weekends (weather and commitments permitting) I'll do bloc problems on Saturday and eatswood endurance sessions on Sunday aiming to a do a full circuit.

Meeting with Gaskins was an eye-opener of what real dedication is. Going to put some small crimpers and undercuts on my systems board.

fried

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Monday - Indoor, after the recent competition everything is being reset. Tons of stuff to go at, plus my back is feeling better.
Tuesday - Nothing
Wednesday - As above, this is my third session in four days, and I'm suprisingly feeling really good, lots of stuff done up to 6B. Weights plus back exercises as usual.
Thursday - Stuck in an office covering someone who's sick, not too much to do, 3x20 push-ups to relieve the boredom. Do the Quiz, Happy to get one answer correct, even if Shark does accuse me of cheating ;)
Friday - Nothing
Saturday - Cooking curry all day, try to not drink too much...

Sunday - First off to Elephant, a grey sky turns to blue just as I pass Cuvier. First up a bit of warm-up then a look at Surplomb de lepreux, get up to th ebottom sloper, but I'm not warmed up enough and everything's still a bit greasy. Do some blues, then return and get the move up to the sloper worked, but can't get my feet sorted to move up. Do some more blues, a nice off-circuit problem and a couple of greens. Come back but the problems been taken over by a big group....Not happening today.

Decide to have a break and have a look at some things at Isatis. As recommended I try l'incommode, a couple of Spainiards join in, but I'm sure the left side pull is out and we try to do it static from a small right-hand pocket, so close, I check the top but it's completely soaked. Leave it at that.

Last shot is a go at L'exhultation blanc, I hit the top first go but back off the top out, it all seemed too easy, Try again but I'd really like a spot on the top-out, ( I have in my mind a video on bleau.info of Sebastian Papillion stuck finishing). I wait for someone to pass, but no luck, it's getting cold, so no 6a...

Fantastic day out. Climbed tons, my wrist hurts, that's a new one.

Weight 74.7kg down below 75kg this week, probably my electronic scales and a change in weather.

Muenchener

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STG (2013): n/a
MTG (Spring 2014) 7a redpoint. Two hundred practice falls by Easter - currently: 10
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

"Rest" week.

M:
T:
W: Skipped my usual Weds evening routes session. Despondent. Going to the wall feels futile when my autumn climbing season was a fiasco and now it's winter.
T:
F: Alpine approach training: 4 x 40 stories stair run in office w/7kg rucksack. 38:50
S:
S: Wall, Thalkirchen, bouldering. A rest is as good as a rest? Ticked all three of my current projects. Useful tactical learnings too: on one of them the solution was a better body position at the start; on another it was to stop looking for toehook faggot tricks and just pull harder. Started trying the moves on a harder proj.

tomtom

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2013 totals:
Outdoor: 103
Indoor: 3
Training: 8
New Grade 7's 20

M:
Tu: Caley in the afternoon. Met up with RobL about 2pm with the intention of having a crack at Secret Seventh.. It was bastard cold.. my first proper cold day out on the grit and the temps in the shade were hovering around zero I suspect.. Being a very conditions dependant problem this was all good - and the evil slopey crimp was 'reasobable'. I still have lots to do on this problem - I was really only getting to the point of being comfortable on the arete with the right heel in and tentatively reaching up with the RH to pinch the arete before peeling off before getting it.. I did not have much confidence in the evil slopey crimp and as it started to get dark it spat me off - shaving quite a bit of skin off the ring and little finger of my LH and (as it later turned out) bruising it quite heavily so moving the fingers was hard for a couple of days.. I also whacked my right heel quite hard as it flew out of the hook :( I gave up - and conditions rapidly deteriorated as that dusk moistness crept in..
W:
Th: Hoped to get to the peak, but the forecast looked claggy - and tweets from those in Sheffield suggested it was drizzling - so I binned it off and went to Logport wall for what turned out to be a half decent 90 min session. Good coffee :) and for £4 with a brew at lunchtime its a good deal..
Fr: Beers... a cheeky couple turned into 6! (made the mistake of going out with folk with young children who'd not been to the pub for months!)
Sa: Thick head. Football. We lost. Grumpy head.
Su: Started heading into the peak - but had messages from Grubes and Dolly that it was drizzling (thanks gents) got as far as Chinley and then decided to bail. I suspect it would have cleared up but I didnt fancy sitting around for a couple of hours waiting.. Decided to head to Helsby hilltop as Andy Popp said it was dry on Sat.. but motorway chaos on the M56 (thanks for the tweet Doylo). So had some lunch and went cross country from Manc to Helsby - and got a very pleasant 90 min or so in.. Managed the low traverse into arete problem that I'd not done before - and very nice it was too!

andy popp

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STG: been wondering if I can get the sitter to the nemesis I slew last week in what's left of the year.
MTG: a winter's training.
LTG: we'll see ...

A very busy work week, and feeling slighty under the weather towards the end of it.

Mon: board, doing circuits, good enough. Not getting any less pumped but able to keep climbing longer while pumped
Tues: push-ups/abs
Wed: ditto
Thurs: board, bouldering, definitely feeling lacklustre by this week but do about as well as week before. Happy enough.
Fri: push-ups/abs, wiped out by the end of a long day teaching, fall asleep in the evening, very unlike me
Sat: Helsby Hilltop. Twice fall off the huge jugs at the end of the traverse/arete link-up TT mentions just above. Its damp and scrittly and I'm under-par. But still, I'm a complete punter. I find this much harder than I should. A lovely quiet afternoon out though.
Sun: nothing, feel tired still.

JackAus

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STG: Finger recovery then V7.
LTG: V11

M: Worked early.
T:
W: Worked early.
T: Beachside area. Very greasy, horrible conditions. Repeated a few things. I didn't put anything new but took a route climbing mate and he put up a V4 and nearly got the sitter to it at about V5. Finger felt horrible.
F: Worked late.
S: Early start. Picked up a hydraulic log splitter. Spent most of the day splitting massive fuck off logs that I could barely carry. Had to have split a good few ton of wood. Worked late.
S: Finished off the rest of the wood splitting.

Took a few days rest after the festival last weekend. Still felt pretty knackered by Wednesday.
After Thursday's "session", finger felt really bad. Movement is more limited now and constant localized swelling. Carrying logs all weekend definitely hasn't helped either.
Didn't run at all this week. No excuses, needed the rest after last weekend then I've just been irregularly flat out since.

Hope to get out a few times this week, maybe just clean a bunch of new stuff. Going to check out the possibility of a new granite area in the bush about 40min away. Found a geological map showing all the surface rock types in the state and there is sandstone all around me... Hoping that there's something climbable!

csl

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Goals for Nov

Climb 3x a week 2/3
Outdoor sport day - Brean/Portland/Swanage - Any londoners on here want to get out?
Biscuit comp
Run 2x a week 0/2

Winter

Climb V8 indoors
If/when i get out, at least try a 7b+/7c. Climb a few 7's

Mon - Biscuit. Nearly did (easiest?) problem from GB training on Comp wall. Arm hurt. Fell off last move of long red V6/french7c twice. Did a few red outliers, all around V5.
Tue - Biscuit Again, one go off the last hold of the Red from Monday. Arm really painful, decided to rest for rest of the week..
Wed-Sun - Nothing

The tendons in the my forearm really hurt, hopefully get back into it with some gentle sessions this week and it will have magically healed...

Dolly

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First full week at home for ages so managed to recover a little and not increase the size of the tye tyre araound my waist. Low carbing and not much booze helped as well
M Pilates. Aching from eatswood trav really
T The wave was being reset so after the traverses did a few problems on the board then 7 easy routes on the self belay thing. As Paul B told me it was proper scary lowering off for the first time with no feeling of take up in the rope. Felt quite ill inthe evening. Serves me right for doing routes
W Still strangely ill so slept all am
T still tired but managed a core/light aerobic sess at the gym inthe evening
F Rubbish on The  Wave. Weak and tired
S
S Back to eatswood with progress on the traverse. Still feels hard though

shark

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S Back to eatswood with progress on the traverse. Still feels hard though

How hard can it be if the shark has done it..

Duma

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Lets try again:

STG - fix finger
MTG - keep niggles in check, run regularly, get out more. If I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

Week 189 through 194:
Sulk, rest, set a bit, climb a few easy problems during the day when the wall was empty so I wouldn't be tempted into trying too hard, resent everyone in font.

Week 195:
see above until Sunday, then couldn't bear it any longer and went to the peak, lush day: G-Thang, G-Thang SS, Suavito, The Jackalope, Cabin Boy, Kiss Me Arsee, Roger The Cabin Boy, Technical Genius, Gritstone Megamix, Hornblower, skin finally failed me on Obstructive Pensioner.

Week 196:
still only very gentle stuff throught the week, Dartmoor on Sunday: Suspension Flake, Toltec Twostep, Cream Traverse, Alan Smith. Highlight was obviously TT, but pretty satisfied with AS too, prob hardest thing I've done since I hurt my finger, and only took 40 min or so.

Week 197:
M -
T - TCA for very brief play on easy stuff before work
W -
T - Set some easy stuff
F - TCA in eve for prob first time pulling hardish since August, good fun, nothing too full on but finger seemed to survive so pleased. Good to see folk too. Then nights.
S - Nights (pie night - 3500 calorie day).
S - quick hour before work, pretty easy session, no tweaks from finger but trying to remember to ease into it gently.
 
69kg.

AndyR

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Goals:
MTG: front lever by start-2014
LTG: * under review *

Third full week of the winter training season, though the weather has yet again become unseasonably good and I have been messing about outside.

Mon: at the Hive with AndyR, following him around closely whilst trying to understand how a urbane mesomorph like him can burn me off at the boulders so effortlessly. Unsurprising conclusion: because he has more power, more flexibility and better technique.


Because I can grunt.

Clearly, your LTG is Resurrection - it's time to move past this string-based stamina fetish you seem preoccupied with - embrace the burl...

Ti_pin_man

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I basically sacked off any climbing this week.  It has been sh1te.  Scratchy throat arrived Monday, did my bike commute Tuesday and went to the wall wednesday but the tank was empty and I shouldnt have bothered.  So decided to rest and get over the manflu.  The remainder of the week was chilled, stayed home.

This morning I feel a little better but still have scratchy throat, really sore when I cough.  Anybody got any good links to climbing with colds/manflu? 

Dolly

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S Back to eatswood with progress on the traverse. Still feels hard though

How hard can it be if the shark has done it..


Quite hard. My first thought was that it seemed harder than powerband

nai

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couple of weights session and a run.

Made a Physio appointment for tomorrow, see is I can get to the bottom of my arm/wrist/finger issues.

nai

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This morning I feel a little better but still have scratchy throat, really sore when I cough.  Anybody got any good links to climbing with colds/manflu?

Don't, just rest and recover. I find that anything too taxing just sets you back and prolongs your illness.  Plus your more susceptible to injury, etc.  If you can, get outside, go for a walk, breathe some cold air. 

Deadhanging once your on the way back to health seems ok, doesn't really put too much strain on anything but fingers.

T_B

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84.3Kg

M - Foundry lunch. Some bouldering on the board.
T - Foundry lunch. Some bouldering on the board and a couple of short circuits.
W - Works p.m. Campussing (1-4-7 on left x 3 and right x 2). Couldn't get anywhere with 1-5-8 on medium rungs. Finished with some bouldering on steep section of wall (using a five tennie on left foot). Tired -  4th day on?
T -
F -
S -
S -

Wedding at the weekend, so a top-heavy week. Started cycling to work again, so doing some cardio for the first time in 10 weeks. Switching to circuits for the next 6 weeks. I can do these on the Foundry board, even wearing a trainer on my left foot. I'll do foot-on campussing and traversing at the Works. I'm going to continue with 2 x deadhanging sessions a week,  but am stopping campussing and general bouldering. Time to build some PE!

shark

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S Back to eatswood with progress on the traverse. Still feels hard though

How hard can it be if the shark has done it..


Quite hard. My first thought was that it seemed harder than powerband


 :dance1:


 :-\ but back in the real world lots of heel, toe and sequence trickery make this significantly easier than first impressions suggest. 

Dolly

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Thanks god for that.
And kneepads.
As I pulled on Seb's rubber yesterday I realised I was crossing a line

shark

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Here's my sequence:

Sit start righthand in crack LH on edge RF on block LF on small hold
Cross RH to edge and crimp big move LH to flake RF up share on flake LF in nick RF on smear RH cross thru to crimp LH to hidden slopey jam
Right Heel on flake (can be painful if you don't tape up your ankle) RH to high crimp LF on foothold on rib LH to sidepull edge on rib and bump again to crease
LF far scoop RF near scoop (quite a lot of bodytension required) LF to kneebar LH to edge
RHeel in low niche RH match edge  LH to jug RH to jug Shake
LH to small edge under roof release kneebar keeping foot on (easy to swing off) LH to jug on rail at back feet up to to get Right Heel on jug in front of right hand 
RH to edge on lip then again to lovely sloping crease LF into pocket in roof LH stretch to right side of finger rail and again to middle part
twist LF into pocket RF to shallow pocket/scoop in roof LF bridge down to bulge RF cross underneath to high edge LF to last square cut foothold
RH drop to match then rock up LH to break
« Last Edit: November 25, 2013, 01:46:34 pm by shark, Reason: missed a move out ! »

duncan

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STG: Recover from finger tweak.
MTG: RP 7b (this winter);
LTG: Long routes in USA summer 2014. OS E5 (summer 2014).


M - Building site fitness;  Wozzeck at Royal Opera House  :dance1:
T - Westway: very easy routes; falling practice.
W - Building site fitness
T - Arch : bouldering (30 x Blacks ie very easy); Godspeed! You Black Emperor   :punk: with Falling Down.
F - Very tired.
S - Cheddar: cool, clear, crisp day. A bit damp and very quiet, the usual slow teams on Corrie and some stalwarts on Heaven and Earth Show. It must have be cold climbing multi-pitch trad. in the shadows. We stayed in the sun all day ticking Easter Island then moving over to Sunnyside Wall in the afternoon to have a play on one of the 7as.
S - Very tired. Read ‘Peak Rock’. As previously posted, this is brilliant. 

Doing a bit too much and generally run-down this week. Weird problem in my R. eye, mainly due to being knackered I think. Felt heavy and weak; climbing easy routes on real rock was hard, the residual summer fitness I still had 6 weeks ago has gone. Fingers generally sore after climbing on real rock but the focal tweak has almost resolved.

Plan: easy week, no immediate targets and need to recover from whatever it is I have. It's that time of the year.

Dolly

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Here's my sequence:

Sit start righthand in crack LH on edge RF on block LF on small hold
Cross RH to edge and crimp big move LH to flake RF up share on flake LF in nick RF on smear RH cross thru to crimp LH to hidden slopey jam
Right Heel on flake (can be painful if you don't tape up your ankle) LF on foothold on rib LH to sidepull edge on rib and bump again to crease
LF far scoop RF near scoop (quite a lot of bodytension required) LF to kneebar LH to edge
RHeel in low niche RH match edge  LH to jug RH to jug Shake
LH to small edge under roof release kneebar keeping foot on (easy to swing off) LH to jug on rail at back feet up to to get Right Heel on jug in front of right hand 
RH to edge on lip then again to lovely sloping crease LF into pocket in roof LH stretch to right side of finger rail and again to middle part
twist LF into pocket RF to shallow pocket/scoop in roof LF bridge down to bulge RF cross underneath to high edge LF to last square cut foothold
RH drop to match then rock up LH to break


Yeah thanks - I've had a look at your vid. I should have paid more attention to [size=78%]LF far scoop RF near scoop (quite a lot of bodytension required)[/size]


Muenchener

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It's that time of the year.

Certainly is. I'm so pissed off with (lack of) climbing I'm contemplating joining a  :strongbench: gym and working on my deadlift for a few weeks instead.

Ti_pin_man

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This morning I feel a little better but still have scratchy throat, really sore when I cough.  Anybody got any good links to climbing with colds/manflu?

Don't, just rest and recover. I find that anything too taxing just sets you back and prolongs your illness.  Plus your more susceptible to injury, etc.  If you can, get outside, go for a walk, breathe some cold air. 

Deadhanging once your on the way back to health seems ok, doesn't really put too much strain on anything but fingers.

Thanks Nai, thats sort of what I thought.  I have trained for bike races often enough, which is very aerobic and it pretty much prolongs the manflu if you try, I was thinking maybe climbing being more anaerobic on the whole I might get away with it.  Might try a lite sesson tonight if I feel up to it.


Luke Owens

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Full week for me last week, got ill on Saturday with a chesty cough and cold. Felt a bit run down since. Also, my wrist crunched when doing a move on Toe Dragon on Sunday which is now painful and has restricted movement this morning... urgh!

Monday:
Lunch -
12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups, 10 Dips, 10 Bicep Curls (15kg), 10 Tricep Curls (12.5kg)

Weighted Deadhangs (On bottom 3 finger pocket on Rock-Rings)
Progressive Set:
2.5kg - 10secs, 5kg - 10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs

Main Set:
3 x 10kg - 9secs

3 x 10 Good Mornings (20kg)
2 x 10 Bent Over Reverse Flys (15kg)

Evening -
35 Degree Sloper
6secs, 6secs, 6secs, 6secs, 9secs, 9secs (something clicked with a better hand position in the last 2 sets)

20mm Edge - 3 Finger Open-Hand
6secs, 7secs, 7secs, 7secs, 6secs, 6secs

Tuesday:
Lunch -
12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups, 10 Dips, 12 Bicep Curls (15kg), 10 Tricep Curls (12.5kg)

Off-Set Pull-Ups
2 x 10 Reps
1 x 8 Reps

5 x 10 Leg Raises
3 x 10 Bent Over Reverse Flys (15kg)
3 x 10 Front Shoulder Raises (12.5kg)

Wednesday:
Boardroom Indoor Routes
5, 6a, 6b+, 6c & 6c

Failed on 6c+ and the steep juggy 6b+ again.

Still trying to get used to the indoor route style, find it nails...

Thursday:
Lunch -
12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups, 10 Dips, 12 Bicep Curls (12.5kg), 10 Tricep Curls (12.5kg)

Progressive Set
2.5kg - 10secs, 5kg - 10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs

Main Set
3 x 10kg - 10 secs

3 x 10 Good Mornings (20kg)
3 x 10 Bent Over Reverse Flys (15kg)

Friday:
Lunch -
12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups, 10 Dips

Rock Ring Pull-Ups
L: 12reps M: 12reps S: 6reps
L: 10reps M: 10reps S: 5reps

3 x 10 Bicep Curls (15kg)
3 x 10 Tricep Curls (12.5kg)
3 x 10 Bent Over Shoulder Flys (15kg)
3 x 10 Leg Raises

Saturday: Rest

Sunday:
Sheep Pen Bouldering

Did "Little Groover" (V3) probably the hardest of the grade I've ever done.

Had a good flash attempt on "Klem's Arete" (V4). Then spent ages falling on the same move so moved on to the main block.

Did "Toe Dragon" (V5) and the "Dog Shooter Low Start" (V5). Toe Dragon is one of the best V5's I've done, classic!

Had a go on "Kingdom of Rain" (V6) and the "Toe Dragon - Dog Shooter Link" (V7) but no luck.

Love the Sheep Pen!

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M-Core and Repeater set, also brewed the beer for the new years party.
T - Core, run3mi, 1 hr home conditioning workout.
W - Core, Repeater, run 5mi
Th - Core, Boulder home wall, 30Min conditioning set.
F - Rest
S - repeaters, run 3mi
S - Climb routes at Wall, 5 sets of 3- 5.10/11/11, 5.11/12/11, 5.12/11/10, 5.12/11/11, 5.11/12/10 all onsight.  Felt pretty good.  Was totally worked by the end.


tommytwotone

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LTG: Font 7b

M: Depot session, mainly getting spanked on purples (V3-V4) that I hadn't done before!
T: HIT gym session on lunch...pretty knackering! Baked a cake in the evening.
W: Gym kettlebell session on lunch, then Depot session in eve on new Reds (V5-V7), did pretty well on them though the final moves on a lot of them are right  :furious:
T: Nowt, out for beers after work with mate
F: Hungover, out for curry at friend's place in the evening
S: Early kickoff at Cliff to watch Grubes close his Flying Arete account (well done sir) and then moved up to DWR where I proceeded to actually go backwards. Heel one from working probably 1 in 3 times to 1 in probably 50 goes! Returned home in a foul mood.
S: Otley car boot sale - made £50 selling stuff we don't need and made space in the garage for a board. Baked a cake in the evening.


abarro81

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My first thought was that it seemed harder than powerband

 :lol:  If it feels anywhere near as hard as powerband then you're doing something very wrong, even without a rubber pad.

tomtom

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As I pulled on Seb's rubber yesterday I realised I was crossing a line

:D

webbo

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Mon. Weights, turbo 1 hr
Tue. Board worked and did a couple of new things, repeated one of last weeks problems.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Board. Tried a few projects, getting close on one. Dumbbell workout.
Fri. Board. Mirror session, did a couple of harder problems. So it was quite tough.
Sat. Nothing. Visiting daughter.
Sun. Board. Mirror session same as Friday but did a couple of harder versions.
I was supposed to visiting daughter for the weekend and I planned to go to Forrest rock on sat. But only went for the day, so planned to go down the Peak on sun but it pissed down.

Evil

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STG - Going to Spain in January, want to be fit for wherever the sun is. Don't have a plan for exactly where yet, so difficult to set a very specific goal right now.
M/LTG - I guess outside 7a and f6c would be good goals.

Spent a long weekend in Scotland at the end of this week doing some family stuff, so lots of dog walking on the beach, and over Glen Clova, and lots of driving. Treated it as a rest.

M - cycling commute 16 miles total. 10 minute fingerboard workout (pullups, l-sits, hangs, toes-to-bar)
T - cycling commute 16 miles total. Evening climbing - 6a, 5+, 6b+, 7a (repeat of one I did a few of weeks ago, pleased I could do it again quite easily), 2 goes on a new 6c (needed 2 rests still on 2nd go, it's got a very hard middle section and I am quite bad at onsighting so the first go was terrible!), new 6b (flash), 6a+.
W - cycling commute 16 miles total. Lunchtime 5k in the park (27m50sec). 10 minute fingerboard action in the evening, plus 6 l-sit pullups.
T - cycling commute 16 miles total. Lunchtime went for a shorter run and found a park with some pullup, dip and monkey bars, so had a play on those and then ran back. Evening drove halfway to Scotland.
F - Finished drive and went to the beach. Huge dinner.
S - Walking in Glen Clova in the snow. Could smell the boulders, but didn't really have time to hunt anything out. Massive dinner.
S - Fun on the beach again. Did 50 pushups and some planks in the evening as feeling full of food. Felt very weak.

cheque

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Late posting this week. Sorry to keep you all in suspense.  ;)

STG- 7A in a session, 7A+ signed this season on grit.

M- Somehow tweaked finger breaking open parcel-taped boxes at work.  :'( Planks in evening.
T- Rest
W- Rest
T- Notts Depot- usual circuit board warmup/ endurance-maintainer then got stuck into yellow (V5-V7 I think) problems. Ages since I tried any yellows here and really pleased to do about half of them with a surprising number flashes. Finger felt fine.  ;D
F- Rest
S- Curbar. Got there at 3 so had an hour on Trackside boulder as it got dark. For the first time ever I got my left hand in the second crack on Strawberries and my heel up on Trackside (the fact these problems are four grades apart does not seem to affect the fact that I make progress on each at the same rate) but it went dark and damp so decided to go back and see if I could do them on Tuesday.
S- Holmfirth- 9 problems up to 6a+: pretty much the only dryish ones on the whole crag. Nearly all were dynos so good dynamic movement training. Did some very easy problems in wet approach shoes at the cool West Nab later.

 

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