[csl]

Goals for Nov

Climb 3x a week 4/3
Get on a rope @ Westway
Outdoor sport day - Brean/Portland/Swanage - Any londoners on here want to get out?
Biscuit comp and blocfest
Run 2x a week 0/2

Mon - biscuit, unfocused. Lots of messing around on various things. Then did two 6B+'s on comp wall. One onsight. Did yellow 6C+ in two halves.
And circuit board black 7a+ in two halves.
Tue
Wed - Biscuit morning. Fell off last move of black 7a+ circuit. Did some new reds mostly onsight. Then 6c 6b+ and 6a on circuit board.
Thu - Biscuit evening. Tried Black 7a+. Fell off at 14th move. Then did about 6/7 of the Hendrix v4-6 circuit all onsight or second go. Couple of goes on red v3-5 circuit crux. Did black 7a+ on circuit board. 6c, 6b+ and 6a in one.
Fri -
Sat -
Sun - Biscuit. Did a red v5. Tried Hendrix circuit crux, V6. In two halves but comes down to one move. Will go with a better sequence. Then did a few more hendrix v4-6 that i hadnt done. Some onsights. Worked out all moves on white 7b circuit to do next time.

[andy popp]

I'm going to join in for a while.

STG: get out when I can for the rest of the year. Settle a score with one particular local nemesis.
MTG: Get in a solid winter training without getting buggered up.
LTG: I'll be 50 in the new year, come Easter I'll have been climbing 36 years. I've climbed E8 and 8a and ... Font 7C+. There's an obvious if preposterous gap I could make my goal for next year, though I daren't even write it down.

Mon: short board session doing circuits
Tues: press-ups and crunches
Wed: board, bouldering it feels steep but there are some increments on other recent sessions
Thurs: press-ups and crunches
Fri: ditto
Sar: nowt
Sun: for various resons get no sleep Saturday night but crawl out to Runcorn Heath, Plumb depths of esoterica with new problem that actually climbs rather nicely. Repeat the arete next to it that I did a couple of weeks ago.

November is especially busy this year and it could be a long winter so for the rest of the month I just want to habituate myself to the board again; after that I'll think about a bit more structure for Dec through to March-ish

[shark]

Rest week. 11.9

Only activity this week was jigging up and down till 5am at Seb's 50th last night. 

Still feeling rough now. I'm going to abstain from alcohol for at least a week. 

Booked in for a benchmarking session with Tom Randall on the 18th so I can get a second opinion on weaknesses and find out where I am now compared to two years ago when I last did it and put together a training schdule.

Going to ease back into training this week.

 

[Muenchener]

STG (2013): go climbing and actually get up something worthwhile
MTG (Spring 2014) 7a redpoint
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

Dismal. As a result of fuck-ups with partners and trip planning I have completely wasted several weeks of the best autumn climbing weather imaginable, during which I had hoped for some decent ticks to redeem my disappointing performance in Wales. Now my motivation and training performance are nosediving too.

Weathering out low periods:

To reiterate, I climbed well, I climbed rubbish, I climbed well again. The low period of climbing rubbish was nowhere near the worst I've climbed, but coming so abruptly after a period where I was climbing the best I've climbed, it was certainly one of the biggest drops in standard and confidence. Accepting this was hard and reverting to the then-undesired mileage climbing was also hard, but it gradually worked and enabled me to keep climbing enough to keep my hand in, to get necessary mileage, to slowly work my confidence back, and to even enjoy puntering along. Being patient with, and dealing with this period felt essential to coming out of it.

In the future, remember that I can come out of low periods and persist through them as best I can, using the mileage-focus that generally works.

M: Knee physio & general mobility exercises
T: Wall, Gilching, routes. Paying the price of tactical naivety: went on a 6b roof as second route of the evening because it was free and looked cool: collected a brutal flash pump that completely put paid to the rest of the session. 5b 6b 5c 6a 6a+ 6a+ gave up
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Tactically a little better: 5b 5b 5c 6a 6c+ (proj) 6b 6a. Met up with a(nother) prospective new climbing partner, which is still a step outside my social comfort zone but went ok.
T: Alpine approach training: 4 x 40 stories stair run in office w/7kg rucksack. 39:20
F: Wall, Thalkirchen. Early morning short bouldering session before work: 15 minutes ARC warmup, projecting 3 problems, asymmetric pullups
S: Weekly (??) night hike. Wallberg. 950 metres in 1 hour 50 in big boots w/10kg training rucksack. Hiked up an old world cup downhill ski run, on the basis that the fastest way down the mountain should also be a quick way up it, and holy shit!  I've been down a couple of modern downhill runs on a snowboard (slowly), but they were real men back then. Terrifying.
S:

[JackAus]

STG: Finger recovery and then V7.
LTG: V11

M: Morning run. Sit ups, push ups, pull ups.
T: Morning run. Worked late.
W: Morning run. Sit ups, push ups, pull ups.
T: Hot. Drove up the coast to pick up some stuff for my Dad, thought I'd go for a boulder. Big crag but not very developed for bouldering.. Did a handful of easy stuff (V0-V3) then tried a few V5s. Really good progress but ultimately too hot for holding 45 degree slopers in 33 degree temps.... Didn't do anything remotely crimpy and I still feel as though I pushed my finger too much. Had to re-ice when I got home as swollen again. Still slightly swollen now. Bought a pair of Instinct VS to feel better, helped slightly...
F: AM 3hr bush walk. PM worked extra late.
S: Felt shit, didn't run. Work for a few hours.
S: Morning run. Sit ups, push ups, pull ups.

Not feeling like my finger has improved at all. Slightly swollen constantly, not a good sign.
Also didn't run as much as I should have. A lot busier this week, recently started a new job.

Have this weekend away near Canberra for a bouldering festival. Not planning on doing much climbing though... Hoping the forecast changes...

[tommytwotone]

STG / LTG: Font 7b


M: Nowt - shattered after return to work after week away.
T: Depot, rather disorganised and unfocused pottering - did first 12 of new comp probs.
W: Nowt.
T: Depot, discovered comp gets really hard as of problem 13. Not many ticks for a lot of effort.
F: Afternoon session at Almscliff, retried the heel beta on DWR and finally got something that a) works and is b) repeatable...interest reignited.
S: Depot, took girlfriend's nieces climbing for the first time - they loved it and were both very good. Did a bit here and there inbetween / afterwards.
S: Nowt.

[T_B]

84.1 Kg

M - Foundry lunch. Campus board. 1-4-7 on left, nearly on right. 1-4-1-4 x 8. Light session.
T -
W - Foundry lunch. Fingerboard. Back 3 and front 3 repeaters x 6. x 3 half-crimped on lowest BM edges. 40 crunches, 40 push ups.
T - Works p.m. 2 hours bouldering on r side of comp wall and on motherboard. Finished with core/bar work.
F -
S - Works. Campus board. Slow warm up then did 1-4-7 on both arms, 1-4-6 on smallest rungs. 4 sets of x 6 repeaters on small campus rung half-crimped.
S -

A good, solid week of proper training. First week back of half-crimped deadhangs, having been open-handed for 5 weeks due to tweaked wrist. No problems. More one-footed bouldering on Thursday. Felt pretty strong on the campus board on Saturday.

More of the same this week, in particular focussing on half-crimp deadhangs (try better than x 3 on lowest BM edges). Also want to consolidate my campussing, with the aim of trying 1-5-8 in the not-too-distant future and 1-4-7 on the smallest rungs on the Works board.

[fried]

Mon- Thursday - nothing. Not as bad as it sounds since I'd already climbed 3 out of the 4 previous days. My back's feeling a bit dodgy, so I felt a rest was in order.

I'd got used to my sciatica, my back muscles would stiffen if I stood for more than 10 mins, but didn't cause me much grief when climbing. Then for no apparent reason the pain has changed...I can stand for as long as I like and in fact I feel better than for a long time....except when I climb. Indoor climbing is just too dynamic, overhanging stuff is the worst.

So, Friday's indoor session is a frustrating affair as I'm trying to not fall but can't overhang jug haul either.

Saturday - long walk and short BM session

Sunday - Weather is O.K but it's been raining all week, doubt anything will be in condition and tomorrow is a holiday, so fingers crossed. Short BM session.

[the_dom]

Not a great week..

Monday: Rest day - feeling slightly sinus-y and decided to take it easy.

Tuesday: PM Surf in fun little peaks

Wednesday: 9km run around my house

Thursday: AM and PM surfs in small, crappy, miserable surf

Friday: AM and PM surfs in small, crappy, miserable surf

Saturday: AM and PM surfs in small, crappy, miserable surf

Sunday: Went looking for surf - lots of swell, but too much wind, so settled for a 9km run.

Absolutely no motivation to climb at the moment, but think the break is necessary. Maybe this week.

[cheque]

STG- 7A In a session, 7A+ sieged on grit this season, stay closer to summer weight over winter than in past years.

M- rest.
T- rest.
W- rest.
T- Notts Depot. Circuit board warm-up (unsurprisingly still quite fit after trip) then blue bouldering circuit (V1-V3, flashed all but two) and most of the red circuit (V3-V5, flashed about half of he ones I sent). Fingers feeling great! Felt like My climbing went downhill once I'd reached a certain level of tiredness so left it there.
F- old school strength session based on the "Room routine" Eddies used to describe on here-three sets of pull-ups, push-ups and bicep curls. Dropped a few reps as sets wore on but pretty close to what I'd expected to be feasible. Some reverse wrist curls, too- I haven't had any problems with my elbows since I got back from the Red but I expect this is more to do with not doing 6 steep pitches a day than the problem magically fixing itself.
S- rest.
S- Cratcliffe. First day on the grit of the year- fabulous conditions. Warmed up, did Razor Roof, a problem I'd failed on in the past, with little fuss then had a look at T-Crack as a possible project. As expected it's hard and, as expected, I'd need to get a fair bit stronger to do it. It's rulesy nature also means it's hard to know if you're even doing it right and there'll be a fair bit of falling on my back involved which makes it a poor choice for solo visits. Probably not this winter! After I'd worn my core out on that I found The Lark Ascending which is really nice and will hopefully go once fresh. Good first session back on grit- a confidence-inspiring tick and, although my skin was stinging after every burn I didn't go through at all so it should come back stronger for next weekend's excellent conditions (fingers crossed).

Back on it this week! I'm trying to do the short, high quality sessions that really good climbers talk about and always have a plan to stick to on training and climbing days. Also hoping to carry the confidence I regained in the Red over to achieve this. The simple strength workouts will hopefully address the powering- out I suffer from. 10 pull-ups leave me out of breath which is surely a sign of crossing the anaerobic threshold rather than lack of cardio fitness. If I can fix this and retain my current level of pump-tolerance it should bode well for sport routes as well as bouldering.

[Ti_pin_man]

Goal - 7a indoors for xmas.
still a beginner, and maybe always will be in comparison to you lot!   

had a pretty crap week which i reckon is down to over training.  but my theory is you have to over work then have a rest to recover and improve.  Tell me it aint true?

M - core101 amd stretch session AM/ hard climb ticked a nice v4 PM
T - core101/strectch after a 20 mile bike ride commute
W - fingerboard beastmaker doing 5A set / 20 bike miles commute
T - medium climb, bit bushed but average not stellar performance
F - day off so went climbing PM and messed around with feet and traverses and easy's.
Sat and Sun nowt except a core101/stretch Sunday PM

Think I need to remember to rest in my week and understand that climbing gains are small and gradual.  hmmmmm   

[T_B]

LTG: I'll be 50 in the new year, come Easter I'll have been climbing 36 years. I've climbed E8 and 8a and ... Font 7C+. There's an obvious if preposterous gap I could make my goal for next year, though I daren't even write it down.

M8? 

[Evil]

OK, I'm in. I recently calculated how many days I climbed over the last year and a half, and it made me think that I need to focus my climbing a bit more, as looking at the time, I can't help but feel like I should have made more progress  As I live around the corner from the wall, it's very easy to just wander in without a plan.

STG - Going to Spain in January, want to be fit for wherever the sun is. Don't have a plan for exactly where yet, so difficult to set a very specific goal right now.
M/LTG - I guess outside 7a and f6c would be good goals.

M - cycling commute 16 miles total. 10 minute fingerboard workout (pullups, l-sits, hangs) in the evening.
T - cycling commute 16 miles total. Lunchtime 5k run in the park. Eve - Toes to bar from 8 reps down to 1, pullups - 8, 7, 6, 5.
W - cycling commute 16 miles total. Evening routes at the wall - Had a bit of a weird stomach this evening which was making it hard to concentrate. 4+, 5+, 6a, 6b+, 6c (one rest), 6c+ (top rope on a super crimpy thing), 6b+ (new route, took 2 goes to do it), 7a+ (top rope, hard route, but some good moves), 6a.
T - cycling commute 16 miles total. Evening bouldering at the wall - warm up traversing then onto a new set (some problems are given in a range of grades, some a specific grade) - flash: V0-1, V1-3, V4 (woo!). worked: V1-3 (2 goes), V4-6 (got to last move after a few goes, but didn't complete), V5 (got about halfway), V4 (one go and foot slipped halfway, will have to try another time). Then went on the steep circuit board for a little bit, and then finished with some campusing. Good evening, got some new problems going, and felt tired at the end.
F - bodyweight circuit at home (jump squats, pushups, dumbbell rows and stuff). Evening at the wall - Did some bouldering. Got a V4 that I was pretty pleased about as it had some dynamic sloper moves that I had to practice quite a bit. Finished up on the circuit board.
S - 8.4 mile walk with the dog in the pouring rain  . He had fun though, and I found a good new walking route. Did a bit of bouldering, but should have stuck to the plan and done some endurance stuff on the roof as I was a bit tired to be trying hard problems, but got sucked into listening to someone trying to get me to do a move. Anyway at least it warmed me up again. Evening - did some elbow exercises.
S - 8 mile walk with the dog in much nicer weather. Did some dips and pullups in the park on the way. I am terrible at dips. Sunday power hour at the wall (i.e. go in for the last hour and a half before closing)! Did a long roof V4 which took two goes because I messed up the move onto the side wall right at the end the first time. Argh. Was very pumped after doing it twice. Had a go at some moves on a V5, but didn't really get further than last time, then went to the circuit board, made up a couple of new moves on it to try and get, and then to the campus board to finish.

I should really have taken Saturday off to recover, or just concentrated on volume rather than trying new boulder problems.

[shark]

OK, I'm in.

 

[duncan]

LTG: I'll be 50 in the new year, come Easter I'll have been climbing 36 years. I've climbed E8 and 8a and ... Font 7C+. There's an obvious if preposterous gap I could make my goal for next year, though I daren't even write it down.

M8? 

8000m ?

  [altitude sickness]

STG: Recover from finger tweak.
MTG: RP 7b (this winter); OS E5 (~May 2014 - missed the boat for 2013)
LTG: Long routes in USA summer 2014.

73.4kg


M -
T - Building Site Fitness (circuit, weights etc.)
W - Hill run. Shoulder stability. Stretches.
T - Pull-ups. Shoulder stability. Stretches.
F - Building Site Fitness (circuit, weights etc.)
S - Short run.
S - Shoulder stability. Stretches.

Tweak feeling better - tolerating a pull-up bar. Late nights and lots of chasing after projectile-vomiting offspring this week. Next weekend is a family trip to somewhere warm (?) but without rock. One more week of relative resting finger and I should be back in action.

[webbo]

Mon. Turbo 1 hour.
Tue. Board put on some new holds and worked and did 3 new ones but couldn't do the right hand versions of same problems.
Wed. Dumbell workout.
Thu. Board mirror session. 9 problems to warm up then 16 problems twice ( 8 problems and each ones mirror )
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Board Put on more new holds, did a problem I couldn't do thurs and worked out a few more. Bike 1 hour 40 mins.
Sun. Dumbell workout. Bike 3 hours. 

[andy popp]

LTG: I'll be 50 in the new year, come Easter I'll have been climbing 36 years. I've climbed E8 and 8a and ... Font 7C+. There's an obvious if preposterous gap I could make my goal for next year, though I daren't even write it down.

M8? 

8000m ?

  Either of these would probably be more realistic targets.

[Fiend]

V8 flash?

[iain]

STG: First grit season

Mon: Rest

Tues or Wed: Works bouldering. Decent session making some progress on projects although didn't last very long.

Thurs: Rest

Fri: Rest

Sat: The sun is shining so head out to Secret Garden on a friend's recommendation but it's damp although recognise, and get inspired by, Dick Williams from Nai's video last year.
First time climbing at Curbar instead and inevitably stop at Trackside. Work my way round the easier stuff on the block and scrape my way up Trackside with a full body smear when my heal pops, (although reaching the top was all about the right foot) Almost a serious case of grit rash.
Wander up to Gorilla Warfare and swing around on, and do, it and Early Doors with some friendly beta and spotting. Very atypical grit I guess but great fun.

Sun: Having a flick through the book remember I'd been to Robin Hood's Stride years ago and watched friends do some desperate mantle, which turns out to be Jams O'Mantel, as well as Jerry's Arete. Don't arrive till mid afternoon to find a loud group nearby, (radio/music at a crag is a bit inconsiderate IMO,) so wander off and find a friendly local on Cave Problem just as the sun's coming off it. A bit of beta sharing, (actually stealing on my part,) and we both hit the top and start working on Blob's eliminate which has some really nice moves. Then the loud group arrives and suddenly we're at a climbing wall having to queue and assert turns and I can't focus properly any more. Head off to try Jams, my heart's not really in it but it does give enough time for the group to move on and I sneak back and manage to finish off Blobs just as the sun's setting.


First proper weekend on grit and it was great. Not much skin left but a lot of psyche, I might even start training again this week.

had a look at T-Crack as a possible project

I know you're saying not this winter but if you do want a spot I'd like to get on it sometime too.

[Dolly]

M Weights and kettle bell in hotel room. Kettle bells are good. Starting at 11:15 pm isnt. Knackered
T Run. very windy
W
T Beastmaker but felt tired
F Wave. Dont think I do very well after max hanging the night before -  probably need to give it longer
S
S Leave home at 3:40 to go to Higgar. I expect it to be cold but its surprisingly warm and I end up in a T shirt  and I finally do Witness the Gritness. At least my grit season account is opened

[nai]

m - rest
T - tried to fingerboard, couldn't half-crimp LH ring finger, open-hand ok but wrist was a bit tweaky.
w
T - Plantation heavily taped, shouldn't have but it was a nice day to be out.
F - weights - TGUs, pressups, weighted pullups, core.
ss - zip

[Muesli]

Last weeks average weight 80.4kg so still going in the right direction. This is still the top priority.


Full weeks cycle commute, two wall sessions, two finger board sessions and five nights antagonist/core exercises and a sunny sunday morning session on local concrete boulder (which was more fun than i thought it would be)



A bit of a enforced lay off from the local wall this week due to re-route but should be reset by friday.


I did not complete all my set goals on the wall before the re-route (close but no cigar) also it was beginning to feel a bit same-same over the last couple of weeks. Need to try other walls over the course of the next few weeks. So aim to get to MK and B,ham for a bit of variety.








 

[Luke Owens]

Apparently I now have 4.9% body fat, according to the weight management thing in work.

On-sighted my first 7a this week albeit indoors...

Monday:
12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups, 10 Dips

Rock Ring Pull Ups:
L: 10reps M: 10reps S: 4reps
L: 10reps M: 10reps S: 4reps

3 x 10 Tricep Curls (12.5kg)
3 x 12 Bicep Curls (15kg)
10 Leg Raises

Tuesday:
12 Wide Grip Pull Ups, 10 Dips

6 x 10 Offset pull-ups

4 x 10 Leg Raises
4 x 10 Front Shoulder raises (10kg/12.5kg)

Wednesday:
12 Wide Grip Pull Ups, 10 Dips, 10 Press Ups, 10 Tricep Curls (12.5kg), 10 Ez-Bar Curls (20kg)

Weighted Deadhangs:
Progressive Set -
5kg - 10 secs, 7.5kg - 10 secs, 10kg - 10 secs
2 mins rest between sets)

Main Set -
12kg - 8 secs,
3 x 10kg - 10 secs
(2 mins rest between sets)

8 Weighted Explosive Pull-Ups (5kg)

Thursday:
Lunch:
Super Set -
3 x 12 dips
3 x 20kg Ez Bar Curls

Shoulder Shrugs:
60kg - 10 reps, 80kg - 10 Reps, 90kg - 10 Reps

Evening:
BoardRoom Indoor Wall -

30 Minutes Aerocap

6a+, 6b+, 6c, 7a (Onsight)

Failed on -
Steep 6b+ on jugs 3 times
2 7a on-sights
Another steep 6b+ at end of session

Friday: Rest

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Utopia Boulder

Repeated The Groove SDS (6B+), and ticked Utopia Central (6B+).
Came close on The Pebble (7A!) I have beta now so keen to get back.

Tried King of Drunks (7A) again but it was wet and I still find the first move nails.

[Sasquatch]

Old STG - Local abandoned sport routes (LASR's) until the weather quits. The weather finally quit.
New STG - Consistant training. Drop weight back to 170lbs (at 172 now), and try to maintain 170 through the winter....
MTG - Winter training consistency, then local abandoned sport routes once weather comes back.
LTG - To Bolt or Not to Be(8b+), and Mandala(v12)

M - Short boulder session outside.  A few repeats and some cleaning moss on an old line that may or may not be possible
T - Volume Boulder day at Gym - All 70 Problems set in gym.
W - Wts
Th - Boulder at Gym, work new problems set, two really good projects to play on in the 7C+/8A range.
F - Wts, PE foot on campusing session
S - Tear down old home wall
S - Work on building new moonboard as home wall.

The weather finally called it quits for rock and we now have about a foot of snow on the ground, so it's time for skiing.  Decided to rebuild home wall for a variety of reasons(mostly needed to improve gear storage area), and found I could almost perfectly fit a moonboard, so went for it.   

[tomtom]

2013 totals:
Outdoor: 99
Indoor: 1
Training: 8
New Grade 7's 20

Grr - just lost 3-400 words from tapatalk so this versions going to be short.

Mon: Burbage west, WSS - more failures - getting fed up with it now.

Thurs: Plantation with Dave and Nai - good session, opened account on Brass Monkey - cheers loads to the fella who was working it when we were there who ran 1/2 way down the hill after we left to return my boulder bucket I'd left behind. Thanks again.



Sun: Burbage and WSS. Man it was busy - crashed a group working it - they left - then Shauna & co. turned up to try it - I got much much closer than ever before (PROGRESS!) then split a tip on the crimp of hell (tiny split).