[webbo]

I have tried to set my board at home symmetrically. I have 20 holds with an exact  mirror image plus other that are fairly similar to its opposite number.
I have found that I can a right hand version of a problem as a warm up but can't even do the moves on the left hand version. However sometimes its the other way round, so even after using my board for a year.  I'm still no clearer to whether I have dominate side or not.

[lmarenzi]

1. I would have thought most people are stronger one side rather than the other. No point in trying to redress that as long as its  within reasonable bounds, people are naturally right or left handed or footed and that's it - just look at football players.

2. Personally I have better lock off left but better grab ability right and accept that as part of my "game" just like a tennis player that has a better forehand than backhand.

3. Although WW does have a good systems wall it can't really be used for symmetrical problem setting in the way the wall in the photo can.

[Dave Flanagan]

I think the subject would make a interesting study for a phD for something.

[SA Chris]

Regards asymmetry, I've started doing some weight work, and noticed that with my left arm (i'm left handed) I can do approx 30% more exercises before failure than my right.

so should I

a) excerise both sides to failure
b) do the same amount on both sides (and eventually rederess the balance)
c) do more with the weaker arm (to immediately address the balance)?

[Dave Flanagan]

The principle of working your weaknesses would suggest C.

[kelvin]

If one of your balls hangs lower than the other, take it as a sign that you'll be braver that way.

If they've not dropped yet...

[SA Chris]

The principle of working your weaknesses would suggest C.

Yeah, that's what I guessed at, was just seeing if there was agreement.

[abarro81]

I would do (a). I'd rather have a left arm that can do a 7a move and a right that can do a 6c than 2 arms that can do 6c moves. Also, I suspect training your strong arm wont significantly hinder your ability to train your weak arm (but train weaker arm first if doing them non-simultaneously) so I don't see the principle of working weaknesses being applicable here.

[miso soup]

I actually go for (b) but I've become obsessed with chasing symmetry and ironing out imbalances following a long period of dealing with shoulder injuries.  Two arms that can do 6c is better than one that can do 7a and one that can't pick up a phone.

[SA Chris]

So 1 vote each for a, b and c

[flyguy]

Deciding vote, do B

[miso soup]

I was hoping someone would point out that Wall X had just installed an all-singing and dancing system board so I could have a play on it.

Vauxwall has a nice symmetrical training board with a load of Beastmaker holds on it.

[krymson]

I think its pretty important. we have the potential to perform pretty much equally on left and right sides. if you're not doing so you're sort of wasting potential.

One thing i've noticed recently is not just in the hands but you can look at the foot rubber of your shoes -- at least with mine ive noticed the left shoe noticeably less worn than the right -- either not using or just pushing/pulling hard enough with the non-dominant foot.

[Paul T]

Are the holds produced specifically for this type of board? If so are they mirror images of each other or is each hold totally symmetrical?

They are the Core range - we've a sym board in Bristol though it's a little more compact than the AW board.

[a dense loner]

Paul what have you done to my eyes? Jesus! I hope it's toned down a little in the flesh?

[Paul T]

Paul what have you done to my eyes? Jesus! I hope it's toned down a little in the flesh?

That's why we all wear sunglasses in Bristol - nothing to do with looking cool!

[iwasmexican]

One thing i've noticed recently is not just in the hands but you can look at the foot rubber of your shoes -- at least with mine ive noticed the left shoe noticeably less worn than the right -- either not using or just pushing/pulling hard enough with the non-dominant foot.

same for me, my left shoes always go through the rubber, think it could be more to do with one foot being very slightly bigger meaning more tension in the shoe and more rubber lost per scrape, or something like that. also you wont actually lose rubber if you re using your feet neatly, its only when the shoe slides off or slides along the wall trying to find a foothold, implying the one with the hole in is the useless foot...

[miso soup]

The rubber goes first on your strongest leg because you apply more pressure with it, surely?  All the above is true but I think that's the dominant factor, definitely is for me.  My rubber always goes on my right foot first, my right leg is way stronger than the left.  There's probably more of a difference than between my arms.  When I first tried one-legged squats I could knock out a few on my right leg immediately, it took ages to train my left to be able to do one.  This could be because before I climbed I skated and always pushed with my right leg, I suppose cyclists have probably got more balanced lower bodies.

[krymson]

The rubber goes first on your strongest leg because you apply more pressure with it, surely?  All the above is true but I think that's the dominant factor, definitely is for me.  My rubber always goes on my right foot first, my right leg is way stronger than the left.

I certainly think so. stepping on sharp rock and pivoting on it wear out rubber, and doing so with more force would only wear it out quicker.

My legs are physically fairly balanced from weight lifting and cycling, which is why I find my left/right foot rubber imbalance interesting.

So I feel it's not just the physical strength of the leg/foot, but it seems to be about focus/awareness as well.

Oftentimes on overhanging terrain im using my feet enough to not fall off, but if i really focus on pulling/pushing with the feet, i can always take a bit more weight off.

With one side dominant, I'm probably subconsciously engaging my right foot more than my left unless I compensate for it by actively thinking about my left foot more.