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Power Club Week 194 Mon 28th Oct - Sun 3rd Nov (Read 11859 times)

T_B

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My partner is very keen to go back, she's a bit funny with the weather so may try and go abit earlier in the year (She rarely likes climbing if the sun isn't out). Would give us longer days too.

The little one will also be 2 next time we go so logistically may be easier (or harder??) haha.

I had a great trip in September a couple of years ago when our oldest was 6 months. It was hot, but it didn't seem to matter too much as long as you didn't climb in the full sun and went to shady/breezy areas (e.g. Cuisiniere) . It might be harder when they're two  :lol:

nai

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The little one will also be 2 next time we go so logistically may be easier (or harder??) haha.

My kids are six & four and have been to Font every year from birth. It's easier as babies fitting around sleeping & feeding routines quite easily, then is slightly harder for a couple of years then gets waaaay easier although you have to start factoring in circuits for them as well as the adults.  But wherever you end up going and whatever you end up doing it's still better than not being there. And if there's something you really want to do somewhere unsuitable you just have to get up at stupid o'clock and go do it while they sleep in (staying on uk time while you're there helps with everyone sleeping in til a reasonable hour).  You can be back before anyone else is up with bonus fresh pastries and it's win-win all the way.

Sasquatch

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Yeah I sort of know that but winter is long and I find it hard to really focus on more than one thing at a time. I'll do some regular sessions on the normal range of BM grips for the next 2-3 months then probably step it up as the climbing season gets closer again. My other observation on this sort of topic is that it feels better to take the training need from a specific route project than a more abstract concept like "my open hand back 3 are weak".
The bolded part fascinates me as I view it completely opposite.  To me, training is done to increase my overall baseline strength and fitness, where as strength for specific routes is done on the route in question.....

tomtom

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Yeah I sort of know that but winter is long and I find it hard to really focus on more than one thing at a time. I'll do some regular sessions on the normal range of BM grips for the next 2-3 months then probably step it up as the climbing season gets closer again. My other observation on this sort of topic is that it feels better to take the training need from a specific route project than a more abstract concept like "my open hand back 3 are weak".
The bolded part fascinates me as I view it completely opposite.  To me, training is done to increase my overall baseline strength and fitness, where as strength for specific routes is done on the route in question.....

I certainly train for certain problem weaknesses.. for the Keel this was lateral core strength and LH lock off capability.. (means side planks and wide arm pull ups/holds). But I (as a rule) dislike training - so if I HAVE to do some it tends to be specific :) The best training for a problem of course is working the problem though!

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Maybe I just need to get on harder stuff that takes a more specific strength.  :) 

Sasquatch

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Maybe I just need to get on harder stuff that takes a more specific strength.  :)
Hmmm ... you do know false modesty is a bannable offence on this site?  ;)

I was actually serious.  There's an old project that I've never been able to really do as it takes incredible undercling strength(http://www.b3bouldering.com/2011/07/29/alaska-6/ see the "Muffin Man Project Iimage near the bottom) I don't ever really get the chance to get on it enough to build the strength I need, so maybe I should just target that strength....  I also have a route project that take incredibel pinch strength in the righthand for just one move.  Hmmm.  A bit of targeted training may do just the trick :)

webbo

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Yeah I sort of know that but winter is long and I find it hard to really focus on more than one thing at a time. I'll do some regular sessions on the normal range of BM grips for the next 2-3 months then probably step it up as the climbing season gets closer again. My other observation on this sort of topic is that it feels better to take the training need from a specific route project than a more abstract concept like "my open hand back 3 are weak".
The bolded part fascinates me as I view it completely opposite.  To me, training is done to increase my overall baseline strength and fitness, where as strength for specific routes is done on the route in question.....

I certainly train for certain problem weaknesses.. for the Keel this was lateral core strength and LH lock off capability.. (means side planks and wide arm pull ups/holds). But I (as a rule) dislike training - so if I HAVE to do some it tends to be specific :) The best training for a problem of course is working the problem though!
Have you not just contradicted yourself. If you need to do different training away from the problem in order to do the problem, then clearly the best training is not training on the problem.
Didn't Godskins usually build a harder model of the project he was trying, rather than just working the project.

tomtom

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Yeah I sort of know that but winter is long and I find it hard to really focus on more than one thing at a time. I'll do some regular sessions on the normal range of BM grips for the next 2-3 months then probably step it up as the climbing season gets closer again. My other observation on this sort of topic is that it feels better to take the training need from a specific route project than a more abstract concept like "my open hand back 3 are weak".
The bolded part fascinates me as I view it completely opposite.  To me, training is done to increase my overall baseline strength and fitness, where as strength for specific routes is done on the route in question.....

I certainly train for certain problem weaknesses.. for the Keel this was lateral core strength and LH lock off capability.. (means side planks and wide arm pull ups/holds). But I (as a rule) dislike training - so if I HAVE to do some it tends to be specific :) The best training for a problem of course is working the problem though!
Have you not just contradicted yourself. If you need to do different training away from the problem in order to do the problem, then clearly the best training is not training on the problem.
Didn't Godskins usually build a harder model of the project he was trying, rather than just working the project.

Yes, but no, but yes, but no....  ;)

What I meant - is that there were times when I could not get to the problem and to train for it I would practice specific exercises when I could not be near to it...

nai

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Yeah I sort of know that but winter is long and I find it hard to really focus on more than one thing at a time. I'll do some regular sessions on the normal range of BM grips for the next 2-3 months then probably step it up as the climbing season gets closer again. My other observation on this sort of topic is that it feels better to take the training need from a specific route project than a more abstract concept like "my open hand back 3 are weak".

The bolded part fascinates me as I view it completely opposite.  To me, training is done to increase my overall baseline strength and fitness, where as strength for specific routes is done on the route in question.....

I certainly train for certain problem weaknesses.. for the Keel this was lateral core strength and LH lock off capability.. (means side planks and wide arm pull ups/holds). But I (as a rule) dislike training - so if I HAVE to do some it tends to be specific :) The best training for a problem of course is working the problem though!
Have you not just contradicted yourself. If you need to do different training away from the problem in order to do the problem, then clearly the best training is not training on the problem.
Didn't Godskins usually build a harder model of the project he was trying, rather than just working the project.

Yes, but no, but yes, but no....  ;)

What I meant - is that there were times when I could not get to the problem and to train for it I would practice specific exercises when I could not be near to it...

Those are pretty standard exercises/strengths though, perhaps if you did them as part of a general routine you'd be consistently strong on them and not need to go through the process of working them every time you have a project dragging on.

tomtom

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probably.. but I am lazy.. ;)

nai

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yeah but 10 minutes of planks three times a week, you'd have done Keel second session and saved yourself a dozen trips to the cliff (of course, I know you'd have gone anyway but just have been sat in a different place)

tomtom

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yeah but 10 minutes of planks three times a week, you'd have done Keel second session and saved yourself a dozen trips to the cliff (of course, I know you'd have gone anyway but just have been sat in a different place)

:D Sadly I started my 'training' about 6 months before I got it.. at its peak I was doing the 10 mins of planks 3 times a week..

webbo

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 Mon. Dumbbell workout.
Tue. Rock city climbing badly, ended up just doing repeats on the cellar board.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Board split a tip 20 problems into session. So did a dumbbell workout to finish.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Board tried a power endurance session but started failing after 4 efforts. Turbo 1 hr 20 mins.
Sun. Bike broke a spoke 1 hour into the ride. Wheel was so out of true I had to rescued by the missus.

Bit of a shit week overall.

 

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