[csl]

Goals
Climb 2x a week 3/2 - should have been 4 sessions but have been struggling with painful skin. Still consistently climbing through Oct.
Fingerboard 2x a week 0/2 - not that psyched, as always with FBing and no longer have one at home
Get outside 2x a month 1/2 - fail, new job put paid to that, but i suppose i could count a whole weekend as 2x...

Mon - Biscuit - Session on the comp wall, they all feel really hard for the grade? Did about 10 of the problems, up to 6b+. Tried 3 of the 7a's and a 6c+ a lot. 
Tue - Biscuit - So busy! Got closer than monday on a couple of 7a's on the comp wall. Still felt nails. Then did lots of the red circuit, v3-5
Wed
Thu - Biscuit - Flashed loads of the red V3-5 circuit, felt like i was climbing well. Did a hendrix V4-6, felt about V5 and tried a few others. 
Fri - Went to Biscuit before work, but skin too sore to climb and had lots to get on with anyway so just sacked it off.
Sat - 8 Mile run, first proper one back for a while, so unfit.
Sun - Moving house.

Goals for Nov

Climb 3x a week
Get on a rope @ Westway
Outdoor sport day - Brean/Portland/Swanage - Any londoners on here want to get out?
Do Blocfest comp and Biscuit Factory last friday comp
Run 2x a week

[Muenchener]

Biscuit - Session on the comp wall, they all feel really hard for the grade? Did about 10 of the problems, up to 6b+. Tried 3 of the 7a's and a 6c+ a lot. 
Tue - Biscuit - So busy! Got closer than monday on a couple of 7a's on the comp wall. Still felt nails. Then did lots of the red circuit, v3-5

Que? They grade different parts of the wall with different grading systems? Cool.

They should also have another bit with UK tech grades, one with the Japanese kyu-dan system, etc. Some German walls use UIAA route grades for boulders, which is by far the most confusing and useless boulder grading "system" I have encountered. So they should at least include a panel of those, and seriously consider switching to it completely.

[csl]

Yeh its quite strange, the comp wall is font grading and the circuits are in v grades. Works for me cos i seem to use them both interchangeably anyway!

[fried]

I had a 4 day weekend starting on Thursday (supposed to be starting on Wednesday but work made me an offer I couldn't refuse), So I was hoping for a couple of sessions in the forest...

Monday - Wake up to scitica pain deep in my right buttock, walking is painful and I have limited movement.
Tuesday - Magically better, but replaced with a stiff neck, probably from being tense all-day yesterday.
Wednesday - Beautiful weather, I'm stuack at work. The weather forecast for tomorrow changes every 10 minutes. Feel like I'm coming down with something.

Thursday - Wake up, feel dodgy, chesty cough and generally under the weather. The weather still looks unpredictable but I dutifully head off to Rocher du Potala. 5 minutes out of the car and I feel better, my neck has stopped aching and I'm feeling magically healed.

Warm up on some yellows, the start to polish off a couple of blues (really easily) that I've been shut down on before. The forest is beautiful and connies are the best since .....a long time ago. Did a orange that is tricky and that has caused me problems in the past. Get hopelessly shut down on a number of red problems that appear to have neither footholds or handholds. Do a red that might be my first Font5 this year. A few more blues, then wander around looking for mushrooms. Perfect day out.

Friday - Indoors - I can't even remember what I did, not very motivated to be indoors. Rain. I started using my wall's 'tunnel' section ( 30m of 45° climbing) which I have conveniently forgotten about for a while.

Saturday - rest
Sunday - Indoors again. On Thursday I spent 5h in the car to do the usual 2h return journey to Font and I can't face getting stuck in holiday traffic. Back still not perfect so I was doing easy stuff just to keep moving and trying not to fall.

Weight 75.9kg

[shark]

M. Spartacus area as I'd left my draws in Spartacus 7b+ itself the previous day. Warmed up on a 6c+ and Tommy impressed me by top roping it clean. I redpointed Spatacus first go and Charlotte (Telfer) got it too. Tommy and I both did a 6c and I did another 6c+ to finish

T. Telendos with the Telfers. Took boat around to Irox which was busy. Hiked up to Eros and went on an easier new route (not in guide) on right side. This was a bit loose and longer than expected at 35m+ and we only had Karl’s 60m rope (though better than the 50m rope I’d mistakenly packed). I did a double lower off then Tommy led it and lowered to a bolt with a view to doing the same except when he pulled the rope through it snagged on a high ledge. I top roped up Karls route and carefully traversed across and freed the rope and reversed to above Tommy to help sort out his clusterfuck (bit of learning for him here) and ensure Charlotte could lower him safely. Karl’s route had been similarly loose so he and Charlotte headed down around to get to Glaros in search of better rock. We followed after but ended up doing a loop and ended up back at Eros  before finding Glaros. There I did a steep 6c+ which Tommy failed to lead and we both led a 6c on Karl’s draws. We went back down to Irox which was a bit quieter and did the classy 6c+ and 7a+ on the left side which Tommy toproped clean.  Despite nearly finishing and waving for it to wait the boat fucked off without us.  This left us with a not-straightforward 1 hour walk out mainly in the dark. A long, tiring and bizarre day.

W.  Cadged a lift with Tony and Alex Hall to Arhi which was already getting hot when we got there. Tommy led a gnarly looking 6a and then we both did a class 6c+/7a which was Tommy’s first flash at this grade despite being reachy and with some slopy holds that were starting to get in the sun. We both did the 6b tufa to the left. Alex was keen for more so we trudged up the hill to “Local Freezer”. Tom amused himself on the Via Ferrata setup and I had a snooze whilst Alex dogged up a burly 7a+/b. I managed to flash this and Alex redpointed it after.

T.  Sikati Cave – another long walk. Stunning venue. Theeasier  warmups were taken so I did Pirates of Sikati 7a/7a+ with an obnoxious German gabbling on so much I could scarcely hear myself think.  He confirmed himself as a twat in other respects later in the day  . Then did the amazing Ou est Lequippe 7b/7b+ and equally good Mort Aux Chevres 7b. Tommy flashed Lolita 7a – another grade notch up for him on an intimidating and runout route. I managed to flash this too despite being knackered from the other routes. The walkout was hard going but a mega day.

F. Later start to give us a bit of recovery but still up at Grand Grotta by midday. Did Elephatenhimel 7a which had a taxing last move and Tommy toproped it clean stripping the gear. Then onsighted Tufatastic a soft 7b+. We went round the corner to Afternoon and Tom went on a couple of 6’s but was clearly tired so we had an early finish.

S.Last day. Up the hill again to Grand Grotta. Contemplated jumping on Aegelis but thought better of it. Went round the corner to Ivory Tower. Tommy led a 6a+ then onsighted Happiness which had greasy holds. I had thought of getting the Craic 7b+ but didnt fancy a grease fest.  We went round the corner to Stankhil to join Karl and Charlotte. I suggested Tommy try a big 7a+ wall climb, Sickle. He then pulled out a stunning, tenacious (1 hour?) onsight in truly dreadful greasy conditions and was at the point of despair at several points. I felt exhausted too by then end and we called it a day.

S Home by 5.30am 

Great week all round but could have done with a bit less walking. Good fun eating and drinking out with Karl and Charlotte each night. At the start of the trip I wasn’t sure how things would work out with just me and Tommy but it went better than I could have hoped for which opens up a lot of possibilities for us to do stuff together now I have more confidence in his belaying.

[tomtom]

2013 totals:
Outdoor: 96
Indoor: 1
Training: 8
New Grade 7's 20

That sounds like a cracking week Shark!

Two weeks worth of report.. which really has had little success. One indoor session at Logport wall, a good session at Almscliff and three sessions on West Side Story (now with a Piss side project..).

At Almscliff I've been working the reverse of the low crucifix traverse into crucifix arete without the break... It looks and sounds completely made up and eliminate (it is!) but  as others on here and yorkshiregrit have said - it really is a superb problem.. The arete alone really tests me, and I (try) and do it with a Ben Moon style Cypher leg kick to get my body to go towards the rock for the final slap up on the arte.. great stuff. Looks banal, climbs superb.

Rain has been getting in the way of further progress

[seankenny]

Outdoor sport day - Brean/Portland/Swanage - Any londoners on here want to get out?

Generally, yes, but this Nov might be a little tight. Still, get in touch sometime!

[JackAus]

STG: Finger recovery and then V7.
LTG: V11

M: Morning run. Measure up in shed... Open Sketchup... Start planning woody...

T: Morning run. Sit ups, push ups, pull ups.

W: Morning run. Checked out a couple of new spots. Found a good beach side bouldering area and a cave/roof area. All fairly close to me (15min to caves, 30min to beach area). Beach looks mainly easy lines, hardest probably being about V5.

T: Morning run. Sit ups, push ups, pull ups.

F: AM: 3 hr bush walk.
PM: New beach side bouldering crag. Cleaned 5 lines, did 4 of them. All easy stuff but still felt ruined afterwards...

S: AM: Bush walk with Mum. Probably only 5km return but a vertical rope descent/ascent near the end point. She did well!
PM: Work.

S: Ugh. Went out flying with Dad. Slight breeze as we took off, head out over the hills and the wind changes and picks up. Did a fly past of a crag with a mate at. Wind picks up. Gets very turbulent. I haven't been airsick since I was a kid. 30min away from airfield decide its too rough to be enjoyable, so turn around. I find a bag "just in case". 10sec later, bag is full.... Dammit. Felt like shit the rest of the day

So at least I'm climbing again. My finger still hurts and I won't even think about small holds but jugs and slopers are ok so far.... Hopefully soon I can get back to pushing myself.

Told a mate about the 2 new areas I found and he said I've doubled the bouldering areas around here... Before I moved back, there were 2 walls at the same crag with bouldering, maybe 35 problems. Now there's 5 new crags and an additional wall at the previous crag... Guide in the future!

[Muenchener]

STG (2013): go climbing and actually get up something worthwhile
MTG (Spring 2014) 7a redpoint
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M: Bike to & from work ca 30km
T: Wall, Gilching, routes. Very busy at the wall, and climbing as a three, so a fairly light session. But I haven't been on a rope much the last few weeks, so good to get a feel for it again. 5c 6a 5c 6b 6b 6a+ 6a+.
W:
T: Knee physio exercises
F: Climbing, Achleiten. Very impressive sport crag in the Austrian alps with loads of fantastic-looking routes in the 7 to mid-8 range (French). Unfortunately for me, as is often the case with such crags the easier options were few, polished and generally uninspiring. Spent some time on a 6c that had a ridiculously hard crux, confirming the crag's reputation for harsh grading. A disappointing day in the short term, but an inspiration to get better so that I can have fun at impressive-looking limestone sport crags.
S: Wall, Gilching. Routes 5b 5c 5b 6b 6c+ (proj) 6b+ 6a+ 6a+. Sudden improvement in the quality of routesetting thanks to this guy, whose artwork also looks pretty interesting. Had good intentions of resuming falling practice, but my mate showed up with a skinny little pink redpoint string and I didn't dare.
S: Wall, Gilching. Belaying my son; threw in a few sets of offset pullups & typewriters between routes.
Evening headtorch hike, Grubereck. 900 metres hight gain in 2 hours in big boots w/15kg training rucksack. A bit off the target pace, but big boots / big rucksack / dark so ok.

[krymson]

STG: full set of repeaters on campus small rung -accomplished!
new STG: 1-3 off of small rung
MTG: get strong on half crimp again while keeping pullies healthy

broke this week and weather has been drizzly so couldnt do much but was able to maintain and build a bit of fitness.

Monday
   Weights - antagonists. Typewriters with 5 kg added - felt hard as hell but i did it!
Tuesday
   short Steep board session, followed by roof climbing which i apparently suck balls at
Wednesday
   pullup station at the park - bit of yoga to warm up then lock off training
Thursday
   Campus board(1-4 feels ... easy! off right hand. left hand has room for improvement)
   Fingerboarding feels much better on small rung- pulled off a full set of repeaters!
Friday
   (forced) Rest
Saturday
   Bouldering Gym - Sent a long term project with a lock off move off a sloper. Yay!
   made progress on all other projects.
Sunday
   Aerocap - 20 mins.
   Weights. Improvement on assisted one armers and lock off.

[the_dom]

STG: Climb at least 3 times a week; repeat Swim Coach (7C+) at the Classroom in Cape Town.
MTG: Finish off a few projects in the 7C-8A range around Cape Town, get in shape for a climbing trip in April next year
LTG: Lots of climbing and surfing. Rehab'd legs and hamstrings and elbows.

Monday: Early start (4am) to fly up to Johannesburg. Forced myself to go to the gym for rowing machine intervals and 20 mins on the treadmill. Intervals were hard but good, treadmill wasn't.

Tuesday: Fly home in the afternoon, followed by a session at the climbing gym. Not bad. Skin still really sore.

Wednesday: 30 min early surf in tiny, miserable, "why do I bother?" surf followed by a session at the climbing gym in the evening. Again, not a bad session, ticking along.

Thursday: Biokineticist torture in the afternoon followed by a 7.5km run. Feel a bit tired afterwards (understatement).

Friday: Early surf in epically good waves. Found it really difficult to get out to go to work. Lunchtime surf in crappy surf, followed by go karting. Then pizza and beer. Great day.

Saturday: Evening surf in really good waves. Surfed for longer than I thought and a serious rip meant that I was paddling almost constantly. There's no way I'll be able to surf tomorrow.

Sunday: Morning surf in more good waves, alone. So much paddling, but got a bunch of good waves. Afternoon climb at the sweltering gym. Skin hurt, then bashed my knee. Decided to sack it in after an hour to go surfing. Expected crappy surf but arrived to find slightly overhead offshore beachbreak perfection. Surfed for an hour and a half (which is a long time in Cape Town's cold water) until my arms cried uncle. So very broken but so very stoked.

Overall, slacked off on the climbing, but surfed loads and had quite an active week. Still far too fat though.

[Ti_pin_man]

Font 7a by Xmas indoors - I'm just a newbie 

M - In the morning my core101 and stretche routine.  Evening headed to Craggy and got completely sacked off, i was just crap and faffed and faffed, mentally bushed.  waste of time.
T - core101 and stretches / bike ride 20miles
W - Usual indoor routine, better than monday, psychologically more in the right frame of mind.
T - Fingerboard Beastmaker 18 set, completed all bar 2 fingers as I skip those as it was injured a while back.
F - rest/travel/flights
S - Climbed up to f6b+ - pretty good session.  Back on focus.
S - Not a bad session and concentrated on a couple I couldnt complete the day before.

[Luke Owens]

I would do a double update but my week prior to font was a stressful non-climbing mess which involved my car being in the garage for 4 days and getting loads of stuff ready for the Font trip. So I basically squeezed in 2 lunch sessions doing pull ups.

Ok so the trip... Sorry if this is long winded but you don't have to read it!

I didn't do anything remotely hard or do anything I planned on but I really enjoyed the trip (I didn't do anything harder than 6A!)

It was difficult to get on what I wanted when we had our 1 year old with us and I wanted to make sure my partner did plenty of climbing especially as she's very nervous.

Most days involved us not leaving the Gite until midday then being out until about 6pm. I'd make my girlfriend climbed what she wanted first then maybe have an hour or 2 trying to climb stuff way to hard for me towards the end of the day... It didn't really work out and felt pretty rushed.

F: Eve - Driving to Font
S: Arrived at Gite to rubbish weather felt wiped out.
S: More rain, partner not interested in climbing due to weather. Walked to show her the Cul du Chien everything was bone dry had no boots with me. Played in sand with the little one.

M: Partner didn't want to climb due to weather not looking too great so we went to Bas Cuvier. Climbed a load of Red's (~f5) felt nails. Did La Nescafe (6A+) really cool slab. Tried La Joker (7A) didn't get anywhere on it. Then proceeded to fall off the top of La Marie Rose (6A) ~20 times... Mega tired.

T: 95.2 - Not the best place for taking a 1 year old. Had planned on doing the orange circuit with my partner as it looked good in the book and easy. In reality it's a logistical nightmare with a child. Partner did some of the up problems from the circuit in the flat area we found and I tried Retour Aux Sources (7A) a few times in the sun but felt like I'd need ages on it to crack it so sacked it. Walked over to Le P'tit Toit (6B+) an incredible slopey traverse and had many rushed goes on it getting pumped and it was getting late so had to leave sans tick.

W: Elephant - Great place for the little one. Partner and I did some easy Orange and White problems. I got completely shut down on Le Surplomb de l'Éléphant (6A) dyno on the elephant boulder and felt like a punter.

Walked over to Le Surplomb de la Loupe / Le Toit du Loup (6B) Steep and juggy and couldn't get anywhere near doing it.

Went and did La Moreau (6A) 2nd go then tried La Voie Michaud (6C) and couldn't do the first move...

Walked over to Dalle à Poly (4C) basically a massive ~12m slightly over hanging juggy wall that looks like cheese! On-sighted it and was probably the best thing I did all week!

Then had a couple of goes on Le Coeur (7A) has a heart shaped hold on it! No luck though...

T: Went to Roche Aux Sabots so partner could have a go on the yellow circuit. Walked round it and she wasn't inspired and it didn't look great to be honest. Walked over to 91.1 and she liked the look of the Orange circuit there. I did 4 of them but mainly looked after the little one all day and took pictures while she enjoyed about 8 of the problems. Was psyched to see her enjoying the climbing and doing well.

Walked back to Sabots and in a rushed hour tried and didn't do:
L'Auriculaire (6A), Graviton (7A), Jet Set (7A). Then did some 5A and called it a day.

F: Partner wanted to do some work and offered to look after the little one for the day and said I should go out and get something ticked...

Drove to Cuvier to do Duroxmanie (6C) got there and it was raining, did OK on the flash but further 3 attempts I didn't get any higher then it hammered it down... Walked back to the car and no sign of it stopping. Drove to Isatis to have a look around, soaking, drove to Gorge Aux Chats couldn't find it and it was still raining so went home...

S: Went to Parc des Felin's and drove home.

S: Wiped out

I really enjoyed the trip and so did the family but I think I should of just concentrated on some easier stuff and I now know which area's are better for easier stuff for my partner and are flatter for the little one next time. I was also shocked at how crap I climbed and how weak I was...

[Dolly]

Yet another week spoiled by too much work. Worked late every night again.


M up early and long drive from Filey to Aber. Hadn't brought any weights with me so ended up improvising just to do something. Stuffed my laptop bag full of as much kit as I could and did some rows, row squats, curls. Took the drawers out the bedside cabinet and did some lat raises plus some core stuff on the floor. Sad I know but better than doing nothing.
T
W Beastmaker
T Foundry lunchtime. I was tired and weak
F
S
S Shed. Took ages to get going. Tired and weak with a couple of things that were a bit harder.

[T_B]

84.1 Kg

M - Foundry lunch. Made up a 25-move circuit on the wave that I could do one-footed.
T - Home fingerboard. Started my repeater sess but fingers felt a bit tired. Gave up after failing on rep 5 of front 3.
W - Works. Couldn't face the campus board so decided just to do circuit board traversing as felt the need to move. Finished with some core on the bar.
T -
F -
S - Works. 8-move problems on right side of the comp wall, then 4-move problems on motherboard. Finished off managing to do 1-4-7 on both arms on the middle rungs of the campus board.
S -

The week started with me a bit un-motivated, probably as I have more options now the foot is out of pot and feeling less vulnerable. Also, it felt like I was overdoing the amount of fingerboard/campus board action. So switched to a bit of volume, then did what felt like my first proper bouldering session on Saturday. Just using one foot, but confident enough to drop off onto good foot + knee, then significantly, confident enough to pull through on the campus board (previously I'd only dared do 1-4-1-4 etc).

[duncan]

STG: Recover from finger tweak.
MTG: RP 7b (this winter); OS E5 (~May 2014 - missed the boat for 2013).
LTG: Long routes in USA summer 2014.

73.5kg

M - Building Site Fitness circuit - step-ups, weight lifts, pull-ups etc.
T -
W - Building Site Fitness
T - Short hill run
F - Building Site Fitness
S - Core, shoulder stability, stretches
S - Arch bouldering with the lad. Short hill run.

Enjoying the building site fitness regime. It’s not going to make me pull harder or hang on longer but it might help with weight (which has risen an unacceptable 3kg since the summer) whilst recovering from tweaks and should help with long days on big routes next summer.

Bouldering with the lad was fun and a short visit during a quiet time seemed to work well. He seemed to ‘get’ climbing more than on my previous attempts at interesting him and asked to go again the next day. After a false start and a briefing he was also capable of not getting in other’s way (I think - anyone at The Biscuit 10-11am care to comment?) and happy to wait his turn and watch me do a couple of problems before having a go himself. This all bodes well.

Stuck to ‘Blacks’, ie about UK4c-5a, but this was still a bit much for the finger which probably needs another couple of weeks.

Booked flights to Tenerife for 15th December to 4th January for the winter training camp. If anyone fancies joining us for some or all of the time then get in touch. It’s not going to be party central but there will be at least two syked individuals who know the place and will keen to climb most days.

[cheque]

STG- Stay closer to fighting weight over winter. 7A in a session, 7A+ sieged on grit this season.

M- Rest
T- Rest
W- Swimming.  Don’t count lengths or anything, just flail away and have fun as usual. Seem to be getting slightly better.
T- Rest
F- Rest
S- Walk on Haworth moors. Get soaked in a thunderstorm in the dark for the full Wuthering Heights experience.
S- Walk around Malham. Don’t regret not taking a harness as there are only 4 routes dry, three of which are occupied.

No climbing yet after RRG trip. Had cough/ sore throat thing this weekend and still feeling kinda tired so probably back on it this Tuesday/ Wednesday. Fingers feeling great though! Hopefully this recovery will be the foundation for making some good finger strength gains over the winter.

Got some grit bouldering psyche going this week; drew up a ticklist and made a badass brush-on-a-stick. Although I’m dead skinny I’m always around half a stone heavier in winter than summer- going to try and reduce the gap this winter and hopefully see the results on the rock.

[nai]

Away last week so playing catch up starting WC Monday 21st
m
T garage bouldering
w
T - warmed up in garage, walked into Bbg Sth, mostly wet, tried E Storm briefly, walked out, felt knackered, went home.
F- garage bouldering
s

S - Away with 3t for a week, heading for Northumberland dropped into Woodwell, Screaming Slave holds were dry but wet in the roof, we didn't quite manage it, think we needed to use the wet holds to stop the swing after releasing the heel-toe.

M - Bowden AM, tried Dog Eat Dog but couldn't work a sequence that didn't involve a.) a skin eating crimp to start; or b.) getting and eye full of sand every time I reached around on top for anything resembling a hold. PM we headed to Hepburn where we did Rheumatology then went to find A Northern Soul which was somewhat larger than hoped/expected. Felt a bit freaked out by it and didn't get far.

T - headed back to Hepburn where I scampered up to the top of ANS first try only to scuttle straight back down again and jump. Several more goes to the top-out and scrambles around to look for holds couldn't convince me to go for it with just two pads, think I'm going soft. PM we headed to Kyloe-In where I scraped up Monty Python's Direct.

W - left NE in lovely Autumnal sunshine, arrived in St Bees to a howling gale and pissing rain.

T - Forecast worked out and it was dry although windy, got a bit freaked out by the winds on the cliff top approach with the pad being tugged around, big swell on at the base too with spray being blown about and the tide cutting off access to Fishermans Steps area.  Managed The Rail, couldn't leave the ground on Clash of the Titans; tried Headbanger and was getting close to the first move - Tom suggested I work the rest so I could finish it off should I do the move. I said it looked easy so wasn't worth it. Did the first move, then fell off. Worked the top. Did the first move, fell off. Repeat til strength fades....

F - Back Bowden. Tried Low and Hard, a "one move" (first move) problem. Got close to the move. Tom suggested I work the rest. I thought it looked easy but had a look and indeed fell off it. Got it sussed then did the move and the problem - a rare one session 7B.  Also did Little Pixies, bit of a bonus considering how sharp it is and how thin my skin was by then. Finished the day with some great mantles, using skin on palms rather than tips.

S - Rain! Bugger this wasn't forecast. We left for home before turning round and opting to try Kyloe-In. It was fine. Worked Hitchhikers but took too long sussing the foot positions and it became too painful to keep trying.

A great week, amazed to get six days given the forecast. Blazed a trail of unfinished problems across the North but optimistic that all the problems will go next visit with more pads/balls and/or better skin/attitude.

[Muesli]

A good week where I managed to stick to the target schedule (3 wall sessions 2 board sessions, full weeks cycle commute) and will aim to do so again although with the clocks back the evening ride home is becoming less appealing


Weekly average wt. 80.8 kg so still going down slowly which is good.


Fingers were still a bit achey from overdoing the board in the previous weeks but that has subsided now.


But the clock is ticking for me to get V3 problem done before the wall reset at Brooks which will be next week.


Need to be a bit bolder on the second move....don't want to dyno, miss and end up injured 


Stay strong
Pete

[Sasquatch]

F%^&ing great week!!!!
STG - Local abandoned sport routes (LASR's) until the weather quits.
MTG - Winter training consistency, then local abandoned sport routes once weather comes back
LTG - To Bolt or Not to Be(8b+), and Mandala(v12)

M - Nothing
T - Con a partner into a belay for LASR #1 in nasty weather 20+ mph wind and 35-40F.  Good friction though.  Get all sequences dialed, but no luck on doing crux from start.  Wts in evening
W - run 6mi
Th - Halloween Party, too much to drink..
F - Hungover in AM, after 6hrs sleep, work all day.  Manage to convince wife to belay me out at LASR #1 in even crappier connies.  Link past crux and fall due to wet foothold 1 move from no hands rest.  Local bouldering comp after and manage to OS the 5 hardest problems winning the comp.  Amazing what a bit of solid warm-up and high motivation can do for you.
S - First day of skiing followed by an incredible dinner with friends.
S - Back out to LASR# 1, and manage to SEND YYFY!!!!    Conditions MINT, if a bit cold.  All dry, 35-40F, and moderate wind. Felt awesome to finish, it was originally bolted 12 years ago. Hardest sport route to date - 13d/14a range.

Overall a good week.  More climbing days outside than I'm used to, and definitely more than normal for this time of year.  On to the next LASR, and the next one is even harder 

[Sasquatch]

@ Shark - Sound like an outstanding trip with a ton of climbing.  I went a few years back with my wife and we had a great time except she wrecked a scooter on day one ....

@ Luke - Sounds like a great week.  Have you done much climbing on sandstone slopers?  It's a technique that takes quite a bit of time to learn and adapt to.  It's such a different type of strength, and a style that rarely "feels" strong IMO.  I've never come back from a day of sandstone slopers saying "wow I felt strong".  I've had days where I climbed GREAT, but still didn't "feel" strong.... 

A great week, amazed to get six days given the forecast. Blazed a trail of unfinished problems across the North but optimistic that all the problems will go next visit with more pads/balls and/or better skin/attitude.

Sounds like an awesome week!

[tommytwotone]

Similar update to Nai for me then!

M - Bowden, failure / scaredness on Dog Eat Dog but then pulled an ascent of Rhuematology out of the bag from nowhere. Couldn't get anywhere with A Northern Soul at all - those bottom moves are surprisingly tricky.
T - Slight progress on ANS but couldn't get into the crack. Went to Kyloe and got shut down, tired and pissed off. Did play some good pool in the boozer that night though, including potting four off the break.
W - Rest day, over to Lakes.
T - Failure at St Bees all day. Head / heart definitely not in it.
F - Failure at Back Bowden on everything. Got shut down, tired and pissed off again.
S - Failure at Kyloe again. Nothing left in the tank at all by that point.
S - Drive home, feel wiped out all afternoon and then go to Prashad in Drighlington for a veggie curry.

[iain]

@ Shark, what a great week, nice one Tommy.

@Luke, like Sasquatch says Font takes some getting used to. Also by the sounds of things your tries on more challenging stuff was time limited, I find it always takes a bit of patience to figure things out there. I take it the family will want to go back?

@Nai, T3, I'm well impressed with the number of days on you got on even if it was hard going at times. Dog Eat Dog has a shocker of a top out, my terrified squeaking of 'fuckfuckfuck...' impressed my spotters so much they went to do something else.


STG: 1st season on grit 

Mon: Foundry for bouldering then routes with an old friend, good fun. There's still some good fitness there so worth doing the occasional session to maintain that.

Tues: rest

Wed: Works bouldering

Thurs: Watch hard grit for the first time since it came out.

Fri: Rest

Sat: Mini works with friends and their 4 year old. Unlike Duncan's he wouldn't wait or listen very well so took some watching but really good fun.

Sun: Walk along Curbar/Froggat in the middle of a storm. Think something looks familiar and chalked, realise it's smiling buttress from hard grit and get home to find out it's been climbed.


I had fun climbing this week but don't have much psyche for training so will just potter until that returns.
All the reports of how much people got done this weekend made me realise that I have a southern softy view of what's an ok forecast. Need to man up and get out.

[Luke Owens]

@ Luke - Sounds like a great week.  Have you done much climbing on sandstone slopers?  It's a technique that takes quite a bit of time to learn and adapt to.  It's such a different type of strength, and a style that rarely "feels" strong IMO.  I've never come back from a day of sandstone slopers saying "wow I felt strong".  I've had days where I climbed GREAT, but still didn't "feel" strong.... 

No sandstone sloper experience. First time in the forest (Apart from one hot summers day flying visit last year). Slopers are generally a weak grip type of mine also, I'm trying to sort this out as I've spent most/all of my climbing time crimping limestone sport routes!

@Luke, like Sasquatch says Font takes some getting used to. Also by the sounds of things your tries on more challenging stuff was time limited, I find it always takes a bit of patience to figure things out there. I take it the family will want to go back?

I think I had around 3 - 5 goes on everything hard I tried. I didn't stick at anything and just kept moving on. It was good to experience what to expect for next time but hard on the ego!

My partner is very keen to go back, she's a bit funny with the weather so may try and go abit earlier in the year (She rarely likes climbing if the sun isn't out). Would give us longer days too.

The little one will also be 2 next time we go so logistically may be easier (or harder??) haha.

[shark]

One lesson this year has been that my fingers are not a weakness, at least relative to several people who much more successful climbers, so there's probably little point in thrashing away at a fingerboard for anything more than maintaining my current level. But considering some routes I would like to project next year, it does feel like I need more "burl" for steeper stuff. Medium-term I am going to revive my ambitions for a solid front lever, which I abandoned in 2011 when I developed shoulder issues. Also going to force myself to attempt boulder problems indoors that don't suit me: typically ~45 degree overhanging and big moves.

I thought your max strength on crimps when you bouldered at the tor was good - certainly stronger than mine. But it doesn't mean you are strong (for the grade) in all grips, combos and durations so it would be worth testing out where the weak facets of your finger strength are and having a regular fingerboard routine which addresses it in addition to the burl training where you should find a stint of weights and weighted pull-ups is good prep.

[T_B]

My partner is very keen to go back, she's a bit funny with the weather so may try and go abit earlier in the year (She rarely likes climbing if the sun isn't out). Would give us longer days too.

The little one will also be 2 next time we go so logistically may be easier (or harder??) haha.

I had a great trip in September a couple of years ago when our oldest was 6 months. It was hot, but it didn't seem to matter too much as long as you didn't climb in the full sun and went to shady/breezy areas (e.g. Cuisiniere) . It might be harder when they're two 

[nai]

The little one will also be 2 next time we go so logistically may be easier (or harder??) haha.

My kids are six & four and have been to Font every year from birth. It's easier as babies fitting around sleeping & feeding routines quite easily, then is slightly harder for a couple of years then gets waaaay easier although you have to start factoring in circuits for them as well as the adults.  But wherever you end up going and whatever you end up doing it's still better than not being there. And if there's something you really want to do somewhere unsuitable you just have to get up at stupid o'clock and go do it while they sleep in (staying on uk time while you're there helps with everyone sleeping in til a reasonable hour).  You can be back before anyone else is up with bonus fresh pastries and it's win-win all the way.

[Sasquatch]

Yeah I sort of know that but winter is long and I find it hard to really focus on more than one thing at a time. I'll do some regular sessions on the normal range of BM grips for the next 2-3 months then probably step it up as the climbing season gets closer again. My other observation on this sort of topic is that it feels better to take the training need from a specific route project than a more abstract concept like "my open hand back 3 are weak".

The bolded part fascinates me as I view it completely opposite.  To me, training is done to increase my overall baseline strength and fitness, where as strength for specific routes is done on the route in question.....

[tomtom]

Yeah I sort of know that but winter is long and I find it hard to really focus on more than one thing at a time. I'll do some regular sessions on the normal range of BM grips for the next 2-3 months then probably step it up as the climbing season gets closer again. My other observation on this sort of topic is that it feels better to take the training need from a specific route project than a more abstract concept like "my open hand back 3 are weak".

The bolded part fascinates me as I view it completely opposite.  To me, training is done to increase my overall baseline strength and fitness, where as strength for specific routes is done on the route in question.....

I certainly train for certain problem weaknesses.. for the Keel this was lateral core strength and LH lock off capability.. (means side planks and wide arm pull ups/holds). But I (as a rule) dislike training - so if I HAVE to do some it tends to be specific The best training for a problem of course is working the problem though!

[Sasquatch]

Maybe I just need to get on harder stuff that takes a more specific strength.   

[Sasquatch]

Maybe I just need to get on harder stuff that takes a more specific strength. 

Hmmm ... you do know false modesty is a bannable offence on this site? 

I was actually serious.  There's an old project that I've never been able to really do as it takes incredible undercling strength(http://www.b3bouldering.com/2011/07/29/alaska-6/ see the "Muffin Man Project Iimage near the bottom) I don't ever really get the chance to get on it enough to build the strength I need, so maybe I should just target that strength....  I also have a route project that take incredibel pinch strength in the righthand for just one move.  Hmmm.  A bit of targeted training may do just the trick

[webbo]

Yeah I sort of know that but winter is long and I find it hard to really focus on more than one thing at a time. I'll do some regular sessions on the normal range of BM grips for the next 2-3 months then probably step it up as the climbing season gets closer again. My other observation on this sort of topic is that it feels better to take the training need from a specific route project than a more abstract concept like "my open hand back 3 are weak".

The bolded part fascinates me as I view it completely opposite.  To me, training is done to increase my overall baseline strength and fitness, where as strength for specific routes is done on the route in question.....

I certainly train for certain problem weaknesses.. for the Keel this was lateral core strength and LH lock off capability.. (means side planks and wide arm pull ups/holds). But I (as a rule) dislike training - so if I HAVE to do some it tends to be specific The best training for a problem of course is working the problem though!

Have you not just contradicted yourself. If you need to do different training away from the problem in order to do the problem, then clearly the best training is not training on the problem.
Didn't Godskins usually build a harder model of the project he was trying, rather than just working the project.

[tomtom]

Yeah I sort of know that but winter is long and I find it hard to really focus on more than one thing at a time. I'll do some regular sessions on the normal range of BM grips for the next 2-3 months then probably step it up as the climbing season gets closer again. My other observation on this sort of topic is that it feels better to take the training need from a specific route project than a more abstract concept like "my open hand back 3 are weak".

The bolded part fascinates me as I view it completely opposite.  To me, training is done to increase my overall baseline strength and fitness, where as strength for specific routes is done on the route in question.....

I certainly train for certain problem weaknesses.. for the Keel this was lateral core strength and LH lock off capability.. (means side planks and wide arm pull ups/holds). But I (as a rule) dislike training - so if I HAVE to do some it tends to be specific The best training for a problem of course is working the problem though!

Have you not just contradicted yourself. If you need to do different training away from the problem in order to do the problem, then clearly the best training is not training on the problem.
Didn't Godskins usually build a harder model of the project he was trying, rather than just working the project.

Yes, but no, but yes, but no.... 

What I meant - is that there were times when I could not get to the problem and to train for it I would practice specific exercises when I could not be near to it...

[nai]

Yeah I sort of know that but winter is long and I find it hard to really focus on more than one thing at a time. I'll do some regular sessions on the normal range of BM grips for the next 2-3 months then probably step it up as the climbing season gets closer again. My other observation on this sort of topic is that it feels better to take the training need from a specific route project than a more abstract concept like "my open hand back 3 are weak".

The bolded part fascinates me as I view it completely opposite.  To me, training is done to increase my overall baseline strength and fitness, where as strength for specific routes is done on the route in question.....

I certainly train for certain problem weaknesses.. for the Keel this was lateral core strength and LH lock off capability.. (means side planks and wide arm pull ups/holds). But I (as a rule) dislike training - so if I HAVE to do some it tends to be specific The best training for a problem of course is working the problem though!

Have you not just contradicted yourself. If you need to do different training away from the problem in order to do the problem, then clearly the best training is not training on the problem.
Didn't Godskins usually build a harder model of the project he was trying, rather than just working the project.

Yes, but no, but yes, but no.... 

What I meant - is that there were times when I could not get to the problem and to train for it I would practice specific exercises when I could not be near to it...

Those are pretty standard exercises/strengths though, perhaps if you did them as part of a general routine you'd be consistently strong on them and not need to go through the process of working them every time you have a project dragging on.

[tomtom]

probably.. but I am lazy..

[nai]

yeah but 10 minutes of planks three times a week, you'd have done Keel second session and saved yourself a dozen trips to the cliff (of course, I know you'd have gone anyway but just have been sat in a different place)

[tomtom]

yeah but 10 minutes of planks three times a week, you'd have done Keel second session and saved yourself a dozen trips to the cliff (of course, I know you'd have gone anyway but just have been sat in a different place)

:D Sadly I started my 'training' about 6 months before I got it.. at its peak I was doing the 10 mins of planks 3 times a week..

[webbo]

 Mon. Dumbbell workout.
Tue. Rock city climbing badly, ended up just doing repeats on the cellar board.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Board split a tip 20 problems into session. So did a dumbbell workout to finish.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Board tried a power endurance session but started failing after 4 efforts. Turbo 1 hr 20 mins.
Sun. Bike broke a spoke 1 hour into the ride. Wheel was so out of true I had to rescued by the missus.

Bit of a shit week overall.