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Power Club Week 192 Mon 14th Oct - Sun 20th Oct (Read 10347 times)

fried

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Monday - Shortish BM session (3 sets) tough.
Tuesday - Rest
Wednesday - Indoor, felt good, can't remember exactly what I did, but making an effort to get on more steeper stuff now my shoulder feels O.K.
Thursday - Indoor, not a good idea but work panned out that way this week. As usual, achey and lacking in motivation. At least the 2 indoor sessions gave me a chance to do some back exercises and some weights.

Friday - rest
Saturday - Misty, but set off at a reasonable hour for Diplodocus. I've never liked this place but after rereading a few threads I though I'd check it out again. It was barely dry and so, I picked out the stuff that was in the sun, did some yellows, but the top outs were too soggy to do much. Wandered about to have a look at a few lines. Still polished shit as far as I can see.

Headed off for Rocher fin which was a bit drier, although the atmosphere was largely ruined by a group of (Belgians?) playing some crap music on a stereo and attempting to cover an overhang completely in chalk without apparently any chance whatsoever of getting off the ground. Climbed some blues, got shut down on a red and the best problem I did all day was yellow 1 up the front of the cube block. Took the scenic routes everywhere, loads of mushrooms. Get in there folks. Walked back to the car in my T-shirt, it was 20 odd degrees, everyone else seemed to be wearing duvets for some reason.

I wanted to have a last play at Guichet but it was sopping. Then it started raining

Sounds like a moan but a nice day out.

Sunday - Back exercises.

krymson

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Hi Lo pays off!

Mon
Yoga for the first time in months(fuck im stiff!) and AeroCap at night with big moves on big holds to work the body. felt worked!!!
Tue
Campused. 1-4 solid with right hand going up but inconsistent on the left. Used smaller edge to do some fingerboarding on an open crimp.
Wed
Rest.
Thu
Steep Lead Wall. Hi Low pays off - Endurance has never been better and got high points on all projects by a significant margin .  Close to the finish on a 7a+ but after getting to a new high point realized there is still a way to go to bag 7c. These are not cruxy routes with easy climbing in between but sustained steep over hanging routes.
Fri
rest
Sat
Steep board. Worked "open" strength and dynamic moves. pulley finally feels better after 2 months of climbing 100% open handed  -- I can crimp again hallelujah
Sun
Vertical Lead wall on new routes. Endurnace is great and no longer the bottleneck, but rather route reading and figuring out cruxes.
« Last Edit: October 20, 2013, 06:22:56 pm by krymson »

tommytwotone

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Easy update for me.


M: Other half started feeling a bit weird in the evening, stomach cramps etc but assumed it was just side effects of pregnancy - until she started throwing up non-stop. Seems she'd picked up Norovirus from somewhere.
T: Awoke at 4am feeling equally dicky - turns out I'd got it too. Not a very nice day with both of us work, laid up in separate beds, both running to bathroom trying to avoid each other.
W: Symptoms stop, still feel wiped out. Ate half a slice of dry toast and drank a couple of mouthfuls of lemonade.
T: Felt better but still pretty spaced out / fevery (mild dehydration?).
F: Back in work, pretty knackering. Finished early and took it easy in eve.
S:Went to Sheffield pram/buggy shopping, ate first proper meal of week in The Forum afterwards.
S: Depot session with tomtom




csl

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Goals
Climb 2x a week 2/2
Fingerboard 2x a week 1/2
Get outside 2x a month 1/2

Mon
Tue - stowmarket. Bad idea as i had a really sore lower bavk. Codeine didnt do much and i had a painful session. Some fingerboarding at the emd.
Wed
Thu
Fri Mk. Taking a beginner so unstructured. Did the v7 from last time first go. Managed 1-4-6 easily amd 1-4-6.5 on the campus board. They have fairly juggy rungs there tho.
Sat
Sun

nai

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M - felt slightly better, tried some easy laps of board, managed 8x 1min on, 30s off on the easiest moves  available. Had to lie down for 10 minutes
T - Tor, had two goes up Call of Nature, couldn't do any of the hard moves between bolts 3 & 4 and struggled to link the "all over by then" top section.
w
T - Partner cried off so went bouldering, good fun.
F
S- max hangs
S short board bouldering session

Probably shouldn't base my decision on whether to continue trying Call of Nature on Tuesday's session given that I was barely over a cold, had little energy or strength and hadn't done anything for over a week but found it painful, unpleasant and not very psyched for it.  Got a trip next week so maybe see how that goes and if there's any psyche or form when I return, but right now I'm all ready for the Calling.

Ti_pin_man

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 Stg: font 7a - bold aim for old guy

M - AM: core101 set; PM hard indoor climb session.
T - core 101
W - hard climb evening including trying to get more 6b+ - failed
T - medium climb with continued try to egg two 6b+ - failed
F - rest/flights
S - hard climbed with gang, had my butt kicked, I put this down to climbing three climbs in week and being a bit wasted?
S - medium climb with Dave, about equal. Some good some bad. Core101 after flight home.

Mentally a drop from last week, didn't progress, maintained where I am...

Luke Owens

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In reply to mbh:

1 Week left until myself, my partner and son are off to Font! Psyched!
STG: Font 7A in the forest!

Monday:
Lunch - 10 Wide Grip pull-ups, 10 Dips, 2 x 10 Tricep Curls (12.5kg)

Rock Ring Pull-Up's
Large: 10reps Med: 8reps Small: 4reps
Large: 10 Med: 9 Small: 5
Large: 10 Med: 9 Small: 5

Tuesday:
Lunch - 12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups, 10 Dips

Rock Ring offset pull-ups
Small Offset - 4 x 8
Large Offset - 4 x 5

2 x 10 Tricep Curls (12.5kg)
10 Bicep Curls (17.5kg)

Evening - 2 x 20 Press Ups, 2 x 5 Pull-Ups (30mm Edge), 2 x 10 Power Pull Ups

Max Hangs
Progressive Set
3kg - 6kg - 9kg 10 sec hangs, 3 minutes rest between.

Main Set
Set 1: 15kg - 10 secs
Set 2: 17.5kg - 10 secs
Set 3: 20kg - 10 secs
Set 4: 20kg - 9 secs
Set 5: 22.5kg - 9 secs
3 minutes rest between sets.

Wednesday:
Lunch - 12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups, 10 Dips, 10 Leg Raises, 10 Bicep Bar Curls (20kg)

Rock Ring Pull-Ups
Set 1 - L:10 M:10 S:4
Set 2 - L:10 M:10 S:5

3 x 20 SwissBall Crunches
3 x 10 Tricep Curls (10kg)
3 x 10 Shoulder Front Raises
2 x 10 Hammer Curls (17.5kg)

Thursday:
Indoor routes - Went to the Boardroom (Awesome new local climbing wall near Chester)

As expected I got spanked on everything (I'm so bad at climbing indoor routes)

Warmed up on onsighting a 6b and 6b+ then got pumped and failed on 2 7a's and 1 6c...

My major problem indoors is how much my hands sweat, hanging around to clip is nails as I run out of chalk! Even liquid chalk doesn't seem to help much...

Friday: Rest

Saturday:
Wanted to get out but although it wasn't raining all crags were wet...

Went to the Boardroom again for their opening day. Just bouldered with friends and tried and did loads of the comp problems. Managed a monster dyno which I was psyched about, usually rubbish at them!

Psyched for my bouldering as the countdown to Font gets shorter!

Sunday: Rest

JackAus

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STG: V7
LTG: V11

M: Cool. Local crag, Lot 33. Working a new variation of a V7. Finally got all the moves after working on it for a few months. Last move is a committing throw with a bad landing. Feels very close to doing the problem.
T:
W: Hot. Lot 33. Stupidly went too early in the day, ended up just laying in the sun for ages until it cooled abit. Jumped back on the project, got the moves down again and had a few attempts. Fell from the last move on one attempt. Just didn't commit to it enough and was knackered from poor footwork and cutting loose... Not good when the wall is 45deg! So close.
T:
F: Cool. Drive couple hours to North Black Range near Canberra for some granite. Big area with about 400+ problems so far with potential for 800+ obvious lines. Small guide is being done now (I need to get back to editing the photos!). Will be done in time for a bouldering weekend festival we are having there in November. Looks like a couple hundred people are coming.. But my climbing, did a bunch of stuff up to V5 (3rd go, should've got it 2nd, fucked up the last move of the top out and slipped off...). Didn't try anything harder, just wanted to get some mileage in and get used to granite (only my 2nd time on granite).
S: Warm. Slow hungover morning. Bad sleep, was too cold. Got a mate up his first V5. I just had a slow morning doing a bunch of V3s. Lay in the sun for a few hours during the middle of the day, then a fun afternoon on a bunch of easy stuff. Another V5 2nd go.
S: Warm. Much better sleep, less booze and not as cold. Slow day. Wandered around one of the newly discovered sectors which has about 300 lines. Then just got on some easy stuff nearby. Put up 2 new V2s. Had some other mates join us and headed to another sector for some new lines. Too sore to try anything hard, just did a bunch of slabs and mantles (nemesis-es). Put up a new V3, high jump over a pit to the lip and mantle. Too sore, left earlier than expected. Overall, good weekend. Definitely looking forward to the festival in a few weeks. Now couple days rest and hopefully it gets cool so I can get this fucking V7!

Muenchener

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STG (2013): go climbing  :furious:
MTG (Spring 2014) 7a redpoint
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

Very pissed off. An attempt to broaden my circle of climbing partners backfires, largley buggering up probably the best climbing weather weekend of the entire autumn.
 :furious:

Muenchener's guide to internet climbing partner etiquette:
  • You don't want to climb with strangers from the internet. A perfectly reasonable position: not a tosser.
  • You arrange to climb with a stranger from the internet, then have a change of heart. You inform the other guy in time for him to make other arrangements. Not a tosser.
  • You arrange to climb with a stranger from the internet, then have to cancel at short notice for some pressing reason such as injury or illness. Bad luck for the other guy, but shit happens. Not a tosser.
  • You arrange to climb with a stranger from the internet, then cancel at the last minute with no explanation whatsoever. Tosser.
:furious:

M:
T:
W: 
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Endurance circuits: half a dozen laps on 6b/+ circuits with long rests, then half a dozen on easier circuits with short rests.
F: Yoga / knee physio exercises

S: Not climbing bolted multipitch in Austria, see above. Wall, Boulderwelt, hoping that bitterness and frustration at being at the wall when I should be climbing will fire me like a rocket through the second and harder of my 7a circuit projects. Sadly not, although I get some good burns on it. It's 40 moves: I do last 20, last 30, first 20 twice. Still feels a long way off. A dozen or so moderate boulder problems to warm up, another dozen or so to warm down.

S: Big solo via ferrata outing in Austria: Seeebenstein, Tajakante. Via ferratas are an abomination, but steep ones are surprisingly hard work and 1500 metres ending on a summit is at least some approximation to a mountain day out. Quite a bit of snow about, so big boots instead of approach shoes. Big boots on rock turn out to be something that will need a bit of practice; they are very reassuring on snow though.

the_dom

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Still can't be bothered to have a look at my goals, due to a real lack of motivation when it comes to climbing.

Monday: Had to pick up the girlfriend from the airport in the evening, but managed a short (90 minute) but decent session at the climbing gym.

Tuesday: Played a game of action (indoor) cricket. Haven't played cricket since I was 18, which is a long time ago. Knee and hamstring held up surprisingly well, which means that all of the pain from the biokineticist is working.

Wednesday: Much aching from action cricket. Another 90 mins at the climbing gym. Not a bad session, but feeling weak and unmotivated. My fingernails still hurt.

Thursday: Dawn patrol in great, but freezing head high beachbreak peaks. Great session. Got beaten up by the biokineticist in the evening.

Friday: Another dawn patrol in slightly overhead beachbreak peaks. 40 min trail run in the evening. Very stiff and sore from the biokineticist the previous day. Bit of a tough run. Beer.

Saturday: Broken. Slightly hungover. Want to surf, but too much wind and not enough swell. Couch. Beer. Pizza. Ribs. More beer. Too much food and booze.

Sunday: Slightly hungover again. Still no surf. 90 mins at the climbing gym, followed by a 40 min trail run. Bit shattered after that.

All in all, an active week with lots of outdoor activity. Have decided to give hangboarding and campusing a break for a while and focus on movement and being active. Need more surf.

duncan

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STG: Don’t get injured. Route fitness x 1/week, bouldering or deadhangs x 1/week. Book winter trip.
MTG: RP 7b (this winter); OS E5 (May 2014 - probably missed the boat for 2013)
LTG: Long rock routes in USA summer 2014.

M - Weights, shoulder stability stuff
T - Pull-ups, shoulder stability stuff
W - Biscuit factory pottering (3x8min circuits)
T - Short run
F -
S - Inadvertent longer run [Archway to Euston] due to transport chaos. Westway with Sean: routes to 6b+.
S - Shoulder stability stuff.

Weather doubtful and work mentally exhausting so didn’t go away this weekend. Decent week: feels like I am finally transitioning from rehab. to training.

T_B

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83.9 Kg

M - Home fingerboard. Open-handed repeaters. Failed on rep 4 of front 3 on lowest rung, rep 3 of back 3.
T -
W - Works. Campus board, 1-4 x 6. Some foot-on campussing for 1 min. Traversing on the circuit board.
T -
F - As per Monday.
S - Works. 1-4 x 6 and 1-4 x 9 on medium rungs. Foot-on campussing and a little bit of traversing.
S -

4 sessions this wk. Left wrist still not right but totally fine open-handed. Settled on repeaters at home for now, as suits the board I have (I removed the 15mm wooden rung that had caused the wrist tweak). Felt quite strong on Saturday doing 9 reps of 1-4 on the campus board on medium rungs.

iain

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STG: Infinite Gravity - the prospects are rapidly fading now

Mon: Long session. Bouldering, quality efforts with long rests till I couldn't pull as hard any more, then circuits. Attempted 2x3 laps of the 7b with 1min rest. 1st set had to rest twice on last rep, 2nd set got to the end of the second rep before totally running out of steam. Suspect I hadn't eaten enough rather than not being fit enough to keep going.

Tues: Rest

Wed: Works bouldering. New set on the comp wall, did a few, started on a few new projects.

Thurs: Rest

Fri: After much dithering with the forecast made a late decision to head south for IG, great to meet up with Ian again. Got to bed after midnight and then spent the 7 hours trying to sleep whilst the wind battered the van and the rain came and went.

Sat: Big waves delayed entry to the cave for a while during which Ian did, and I wouldn't commit to, a one move, wet 7a+. Getting on IG was as expected, mostly slimy. Decided not to waste time on the wet bits and clipsticked up to where it was drier and started going bolt to bolt which went ok, but I was massively overgripping and climbing like a robot. Whilst Ian made good progress on the first section despite the wetness I faffed around on the low crux before we called it a day and escaped whilst the waves were manageable. Drove home.

Sun: Much needed rest.


In terms of actual climbing and refining moves I made a little progress. What I did realise is that my head is badly out of practice at doing hardish moves above bolts, and I'm trying to go at trad speed up a very steep sport route. Getting on a rope indoors this week in an attempt to quickly correct the problems.

The bigger issue is the weather, the route might be done for the season. Unless things miraculously defy the forecasts and improve for next weekend I can't see it being climbable till next year now. After all the training I've not even managed to have a single redpoint  :slap:

nai

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After all the training I've not even managed to have a single redpoint  :slap:

Know how you feel, 20 weeks of training only to get ill and injured then not be able to do the crux moves and now it's raining.

Muenchener's guide to internet climbing partner etiquette:
  • You don't want to climb with strangers from the internet. A perfectly reasonable position: not a tosser.
  • You arrange to climb with a stranger from the internet, then have a change of heart. You inform the other guy in time for him to make other arrangements. Not a tosser.
  • You arrange to climb with a stranger from the internet, then have to cancel at short notice for some pressing reason such as injury or illness. Bad luck for the other guy, but shit happens. Not a tosser.
  • You arrange to climb with a stranger from the internet, then cancel at the last minute with no explanation whatsoever. Tosser.


Feel your pain too, I'm only free midweek so climb with a number of folk met via forums etc. but let downs are quite common due to either party's work, kids, health issues. In the last four weeks five of eight arranged days have been lost to these or weather (two were my fault). Very frustrating, chin up.

i_a_coops

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After all the training I've not even managed to have a single redpoint  :slap:

Worth remembering that even if you lose all the fitness you've gained training for IG over the winter, it'll be a lot easier getting back to the same level in future....

and you've onsighted gnarly Swanage E5 with that fitness so definitely not a waste! :)

shark

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11.5-6

M.Eve. Sonia on course all week scuppered chance to back to Malham. Good weighted deadhang session whilst Poppy at brownies - moved up to 35kg front 3 on BM slots 3x9sec.
T. Day: Tried to do 20:10's but gave up. Eve. Foundry did the pink and yellow swirls (by skin of teeth) in a session between belaying Poppy. Fingers felt good on this - it probabaly would have required a few sessions in the past. 
W.
T. Day. Meant to do a 20:10 session but forgot. Eve. Did a superb weighted deadhang session whilst Poppy at choir
F.
S.Malham. Oak and most other routes soaked. Even the dry routes were greasy. Joined Paul trying Bat Route crux lower bulge. Amazing burly climbing on poor three finger undercuts. Did OK. Best that I dont get too inspired by this !! Then had a play on Raindogs.
S. Fingers felt creaky. Did a 20:10 aerocap session on the systems board.

Oak campaign was stop/start. Consolation is that I'm currently stronger than I've ever been which I should point out - before anybody chips in - isn't very strong. Off to Kalymnos on saturday for a week with Tommy. Haven't got the stamina I had when I last went but hey ho. Also got a bow wave of work heading my way which will keep me busy till christmas.




Dolly

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M. Fast session (climbing without much rest between problems) on the Wave doing the level 2s I hadn't done before
T. Beastmaker
W. All level 1s (33 I think) in the foundry in 50 minutes. Completely knackering. I dont know why I did this really - I just wanted to see if it was a good way to have an easy session. I ached afterwards.
T Started to come down with something - sore throat
F Fighting off something
S Completely knackered. Probably the thing I was trying to throw off getting me
S Higgar. Quintissential Higgarisms which seemed very soft for the grade. I climbed the right side of the arete but I guess you could make it harder going 1 yard further right - ie not the arete. More time on Witness the Gritness. I didn't have my air pad, just a foam one and I was bottoming out coming off the last move. This un- nerved me a bit so I tried to do it statically. I tickled the finishing hold but not enough to hold it. Will be fine next time with the air pad and a little pop for the finish. I suppose if there is a positive here its that it felt very straightforward up until the last move whereas the last time I tried it with Nai in the snow it felt much harder getting there.

nai

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More time on Witness the Gritness. I didn't have my air pad, just a foam one and I was bottoming out coming off the last move. This un- nerved me a bit so I tried to do it statically. I tickled the finishing hold but not enough to hold it. Will be fine next time with the air pad and a little pop for the finish. I suppose if there is a positive here its that it felt very straightforward up until the last move whereas the last time I tried it with Nai in the snow it felt much harder getting there.

I did it on Thursday and it felt much harder than previously. Dave did remember some pretty cool beta though (after I'd done it the hard way) which might help. Two things - first use the higher part of the undercut rather than the best bit, this gives 6" extra reach.  Second, when you gain the poor crimp you then match/swap your feet (bit blind, comfy shoe will help) and reach for the LHS of the finishing ledge fairly staticly before bumping for the better bit. Good luck, tis a quality problem

Dolly

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OK cheers Nai
I was trying to static it from the undercut to the finishing hold with my right hand.
You mean match your right foot on the small pebble that your right is on ?

nai

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pebble? left foot is on an obvious good hold just under the low break, right comes in beside it onto a slightly poorer bit, then stretch.

Dolly

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OK got ya

Sasquatch

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STG - Train like a Fiend - Maybe knock out two routes projects if the weather holds long enough.
MTG - Train Like a Fiend
LTG - 8A(Fatty Project), 8B(Muffin Man Project) and 8B+(Niffleheim) local projects.  They finally feel possible...

M - Nothing - Felt down, no motivation
T - Boulder - Big hard bouldering volume day (30 problems v6-v9), followed by foot on campusing and wts
W - Run 4mi
Th - Run 6mi, FB
F - Wts, Boulder session, volume/intensity combo, loads of dynamic movement.
S - fingers wrecked, wts, run 3mi
S - Outside roped climbing, OS, 10a, 10b, 10d, 11a, 11b, 11d. Felt good getting back to leading.

Big week overall, fingers still feeling pretty worked today.


webbo

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Mon. Dumbbell workout. Turbo 1 hr.
Tue. Board worked out a new 27 move circuit, then started working it backwards from the finish. 13 moves, 17, 21, 22,22,21,17,13.
Wed. Dumbbell workout
Thu. Board. Managed 3 problems without dabbing which I'd been trying to do for a couple of sessions.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Board did 6 problems 4 times after warming up. Dumbbell workout using a bit more weight. Bike 1hr 30 mins.
Sun. Board. Working the new circuit again. 13 moves, 21,24, then full circuit 27 moves. Pumped stupid, started working a new finish but couldn't do the last move due to being pumped. Worked the mirror finish to the original. 13 moves, 17,17,21.
Good weeks training.

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2013 totals:
Outdoor: 92
Indoor: 7
Training: 8
New Grade 7's 20

M:
T: Almscliff on my Hull > Manc commute... late afternoon evening session. I was rubbish.. no motivation. Stressful day at work gave rise to aches, pains and just didnt want to pull. Worked crucifix arete without the break and made some progress but matter was beating mind..
W:
T: Quick hour at Burbizshizz W on my way from Manc > Hull. It was damp, but West Side was dry.. made some progress - and determined that scarpas were better than my anazazis for this particular problem...



F: 4.5 hour meeting and drive back to Manc. Dribbled in front of the TV.
S: No MrsTT all weekend so plenty of opportunities.. But wetness - unpredictable wetness was everywhere... drove the 70 odd miles up to Woodwell, to find it had just recieved a small shower, and everything underneath was 'condensed to fuck'. Absolutely gopping. I then went up to Newbiggin as I figured it was exposed - so might catch some wind. It was wet. Whiteout boulder was dryish, but then wet in the breaks - and by that point I didnt give a shit and went home..



Su: Where to go - what to do? weather again looked wack, so it looked like a wall day.. I ended up having a good session at the Depot with TZone... nice vibe on a sunday afternoon - very civilised. Unlike the screaming child party fest that Logport wall is on sunday afternoons...

iain

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Know how you feel, 20 weeks of training only to get ill and injured then not be able to do the crux moves and now it's raining.

I can provide a morning/afternoon belay at Raven Tor weekdays just now if you're looking for more sessions on it (and it stops raining). Colds totally flatten me, long after the visible effects are gone.

Worth remembering that even if you lose all the fitness you've gained training for IG over the winter, it'll be a lot easier getting back to the same level in future....

and you've onsighted gnarly Swanage E5 with that fitness so definitely not a waste! :)

Indeed, cheers Ian  :)

 

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