[shark]

11.5-6

M.PM Systems board - Few pulls on undercuts and 2sets of 20:10's
T. Noon. Leisurely deadhang session. Seemed to take ages to get fully recruited but eventually rewarded with a PB 
W.
T. Couldn't find anyone willing to go to Malham. Noon. Systems board. Intended to do fingery endurance session but ended up training on undercuts and an old to-hard-for-me-then Oak sequence which I can now do 
F. Weighted deadhang PB 32.5kg 3 fingers in BM slot 10,10,10 and 9secs 
S. Eve. Discovered Oak was wet so cancelled plans to go. Drank wine, ate chocolate
S. AM beautiful day, ugly mood. Dragged my sorry arse out to the tor with Tommy taking scenic route to cheer myself up. Had a quick go on Per Rev and very nearly did first two moves footless - definite gains there. Then it got greasy. Right side better nick tried R&H start. Again felt stronger than before - on Steve's advice tried it going to left hold and made ok progress

Massive disappointment not to get up to Malham. Currently stronger than I've ever been and a reasonable weight so primed  for the Oak. Whether it is enough remains to be seen. Arranged to go up tuesday. Time to put on the antihydral.

[rich d]

Massive disappointment not to get up to Malham. Currently stronger than I've ever been and a reasonable weight so primed  for the Oak. Whether it is enough remains to be seen. Arranged to go up tuesday. Time to put on the antihydral.

You can sod off with that Shark, I put 20 notes on last week with billy hill that your lad would climb it before you (got shit odds though  )

[kelvin]

Cheers Shark - best of luck for Tuesday.

Been away on me hols ain't I, so three weeks but not done much this one, just some bouldering of V0s on the new set as fingers sore from the trip

Gonna be a right lazy git and copy and paste me trip report 

From the beginning... Drove to the Ariege - Auzat, never been on granite. Onsighted a couple of 5c routes and then tried to lead 6b for the first time. Broken hold beat me :-( Then 2 days at Alliat. Not used to Limestone and had to work right hard. No leading but got on 6b, 6a.
Suirana - l'Olla. I liked this place! Worked a 6b. F*ck me it was nails. Monos, two finger undercuts. Went to Can Melefots in the evening - some low grades for me but what a shit place to climb. Like climbing wall. Didn't bother. Then Can Matges de Dalt. Some nice slabs, almost onsighted a 6a but me foot slipped stepping back down. Argh. 6a and it had 3mm edges and a bloody mono WTF.
Montserrat - Led a V+ near St Cecelia, should have led the 6a+ instead of a toprope. Next day tried to climb some tower. What a pile of choss! Dangerous as. Ended up trying to do a 6b multi to finish but that was worse. Abbed off and glad we didn't kill anyone with rockfall. Then tried three slabs lower down the hill and the grades for the 6a+ were shockingly hard. I will never moan about grades again. When your mate who has led 7a abroad this year has to aid the thing... says it all really.
Back to the Ariege - Sinsat on some slabs but it was just too hot. Got well above my gear on one route and just couldn't see the foot moves. Climbed down, went back up, then lowered. Sacked it off as I was sweating rivers and hurt a finger bad.
Font - went to Bas-Cuvier. What an uninspiring hole. Felt like I'd gone to Mile End. Had my arse kicked on a 5b. Next day 95.2 and I liked this place better. Did some 5a slab but arsed kicked again.
Elephant. Sacked off bouldering and went for a RUN. Best decision ever! Got to see the forest and do some cardio, was gone over two hours. I have my running mojo back. Teatime, did a 5a in 8 goes but that was all I did all day. Then 91.2 and it was damp. Decided I hate bouldering in a group and just watched. Then when everyone went to that beach area, I climbed on my own. Almost flashed a 5b, top move got me, missed a foothold. Fingers finally had it.

That's enough cheating, now to be unique...

So that SmartClimbing weekend the other week told me I get distracted too easily - this trip showed it. Too many new venues meant my head was in explorer mode and that doesn't work too well with sport climbing. Nah, sports climbing isn't for me, not at all. Can't see my new 70m rope getting that much use.
Bouldering at Font -I expected to get my butt raped but why all the inconsistency with the grades? Or is that just at the low level I climb? 4bs that were way harder than 5bs, guidebooks that gave madly differing grades... it was eye opening for sure. I don't mind tough grading, in fact I like it but be consistent please. Doubt I'll go back, just not an inspiring place for me, I felt like I was at Stanage and I hate Stanage. Lone boulderer from now on too. I focus better, climb better and just get into a good place when I'm on my own.
Suirana was grand - that place is a reason to want to climb hard. Some of the sectors halfway up the hill were amazing! Montserrat on the other hand was a choss heap with super tough grades compared to everywhere else we went. I think, after the Ariege, I quite like climbing on granite. It was my first go on the stuff and it was quite enjoyable.

So need to rethink my goals. I like big mountain days out, it's why I started climbing... to make my scrambling/soloing safer. Move fast, cover ground and have fun. Not climb some rock, clip chains, don't look over the top and don't go anywhere. Fair play Shark for putting all this effort into Oak - I will never be able to understand the motivation, it would be impossible for me.

[Muenchener]

STG (2013): Frankenjura VII onsight. Must still be potential for one or two decent autumn weekends.
MTG (Spring 2014) 7a redpoint
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

Headache all week. Possibly some kind of autumn virus; I suspect more likely I just haven't been getting enough sleep.

M:
T:
W: Bike to & from work ca 25km.
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Mostly belaying my son but also squeezed in a couple of rounds of easy-but-pumpy endurance circuits and feet-on campusing.

F: Wall, Boulderwelt. Working two 7a circuit projects. Have done all the moves and long links on both of them, one of them in two (slightly) overlapping sections. Am in a race against the routesetters now.

S: Knee pyhsio exercises, yoga/mobility, core

S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Ticked one of my two 7a circuit projects, linked the other in two overlapping sections. First time I have ever succeeded on a 7a of any kind, which is a bit of a yyfn: the the hardest grade I have  climbed has never been on plastic before. But still, progress is progress.

[kelvin]

Nice work on the 7a! 

[Muenchener]

Thanks. I had the day free and the weather was much better than forecast - I was peeved that I couldn't lure anybody out onto real rock at short notice. But it was a pretty decent consolation prize.

[Ti_pin_man]

Stg: font 7a - bold aim for old guy

M - AM: core101 PM: indoor, usual 40 mins warm up followed by hitting v4s -felt ok as it was all new so there was tons to play on.
T - cycled up, back to the usual WS play centre, as above, not as good, tired.
W - cycled up, bushed so worked feet drills, then chilled yoga.
T - core101
F - rest
S - 3hours up to 6b/6b+
S - as above but more foot focused routes as tiring

Mentally a good week as last month was on 6a's this month projecting on 6b's.  Feels like small progression. 

[krymson]

Been experimenting with High/Lo training to gain strength and avoid serious climbing volume so I can heal a finger niggle.

M Pure rest
T Steep lead wall
just casual climbing but made some progress on all routes. didnt do practice falls well and it showed =|
W ARC in the morn
Weights at night . Did Pullups with 27.5kg! felt strong until I read this

F. Weighted deadhang PB 32.5kg 3 fingers in BM slot 10,10,10 and 9secs 

 
Th Aerocap with 20/10s in the early afternoon + Bouldering Gym in the evening. Never felt stronger.
Fr Pure Rest
Sa Pure rest
Su Bouldering gym. not enough sleep and too many people led to being unable to focus and so-so performance.
--------------
One interesting effect noted is that Aerocap earlier in the day seems to have a warmup effect on harder climbing later in the day.

[csl]

Goals
Climb 2x a week 3/2
Fingerboard 2x a week 1/2
Get outside 2x a month 1/2

Mon-
Tue- KK, boulderind to warm up. Some problems up to 6c. Then Campusing for power. 1-4-5 and 1-3-5 a few times. Fingerboard 3x10seconds on smallest two holds on BM 1000 and 3x6-8 seconds front three on 2nd smallest hold.
Wed- Run - 6km
Thu-
Fri-
Sat- Pembroke! Took a surprise whipper from Highlife second pitch on soaking wet holds. Lucky Strike and Army Dreamers Lead. Cool for CAts, Wishful Thinking and Cupids Bow Second.
Didn't get on anything harder as i found everything difficult having not done much trad climbing recently and very little stamina stuff.
Sun- Mother Careys. First time there and understood its nickname! Abbed in to Strait Gate which partner led. I had no chalk so it was generally greasy and much harder than i expected. Nearly put me off, but i decided to do Zeppelin. Right at the limit of my current shite fitness but managed to onsight it in one big pitch. Then seconded partner up Rock Idol with no chalk again for another sea cliff greasefest, great route though.

Psyched to have managed Zeppelin despite having zero stamina! Great steep juggy fun!

[JackAus]

STG: V7
LTG: V11

Didn't feel like I got much done this week.

M: DWS. Another 3 attempts. Still not made it through the crux (hope there isn't a higher crux) but think I have the beta. Just a matter of strength and actually doing it... Such a good route...
T:
W:
T: Bouldering. Nearly got a V6 I've been working on. Fairly steady moves on a 45-50 degree wall into a big move to a deadpoint into a 2 finger, 1 pad deep pocket. Then big throw around a bulge to a sloper... Only made that move in isolation once... Also made progress on a V9.
F: Round of golf.
S: 12km trail run.
S: DWS. Still working project. 8 attempts. Very warm. Lots of failing on the crux. This line is alot harder than I thought.

Feels like I did something Tues or Wed but I can't remember...

[Luke Owens]

Realised this week that my weight has dropped to 10 stone 5 pounds and has stayed the same all week... I'm usually 10 stone 11 pounds and have been all year, must be the extra training/running?

Monday:
Lunch - 3km run in 15 minutes

Evening - Deadhangs:
Front 3 - 20mm edge: 4secs, 5secs, 5secs
Sloper 30's: 3secs, 4 secs, 4 secs
Middle 2 - 25mm edge: 11secs, 10secs, 12secs
Front 2 - 30mm edge: 6secs, 6secs, 8secs
Front 3 - 30mm edge: 5 pull ups

Warm down - Aerocap 30 minutes

Tuesday:
Pantymwyn bouldering - Ancap session trying a 15 move V6/7A boulder problem. Fell off the last move and fell on the "crux" ~12 moves in about 8 times. Good training!

Wednesday:
Aerocap 30 minutes

Thursday:
Lunch - Warm up - 8 Wide Grip pull ups, 8 Jug pull ups, 2 x 8 Dips, 20 Crunches.
Rock Ring pull ups:
Set 1 - Large: 6 Medium: 5 Small: 4
Set 2 - Large: 6 Medium: 5 Small: 4
Set 3 - Large: 6 Medium: 4 Small: 3

Friday:
Rest - Feeling slightly over-trained

Saturday:
Back at the Orme on Mayfair Wall to finish off Axle Attack.
Planned to warm up by going bolt-to-bolt on it but just climbed the whole thing easily placing the clips with no prior warm up. Felt awesome and not that hard. Psyched to tick the classic 7a+!

Had a good flash attempt on another classic "The Bloods" (F7a+). Got past the crux and hung around too long and pumped out. Didn't spend to long working out the bit I fell off and had a redpoint and made the stupid mistake of not throwing for a good hold and spent too long trying to move my feet pointlessly and pumped out again and another 2 redpoints I had were falling in the same place, pump was terminal after the 1st redpoint, again good training though!

Also did some laps on the V3 traverse in Split Infinity Cave before I went home, got me sweating and tired!

Sunday:
Rest

Note to self: Need to work on climbing faster and get used to climbing more dynamically on routes with good holds like The Bloods, I'm used to spending a lot of time getting my feet sorted and using technique to make things perfect when sometimes it's not essential. Good to be on routes that have good open handed holds for a change!

Things are going well on the endurance front so far, need to keep up the Aerocap! Wish I could get more good quality goes on routes in a session before my stamina dies though...

[cheque]

Sounds like a good Pembroke trip csl!

I'm in the Red! God I love it here!

Trip goal: 5.12b (7b)

M- Rest.
T- Swimming.
W- Rest. Feverish packing 'til 12:30AM
T- Up at 4AM for 21.5 hour journey to Kentucky. Due to time difference this day lasts 29 hours.
F- Johnny's Wall/ Tectonics Wall. 6 pitches onsight up to 5.10b in sweltering heat.
S- Solar Collector. Take two goes to do a .10a and  three to not do a .10d. Adjusting to the solid continuity of the Red style is hard in 27 degree heat. Crap skin. Luckily it's forecast to drop dramatically. Got a look at the fucking stunning Gold Coast.
S- Great Wall/ Solarium. Cooler and feeling adjusted. .11a warm-up  onsight then do a route off my ticklist that defeated me last year first go :dance: At .11c (6c+) it's a way from my goal but is equal to last year's hardest and makes me feel like I can properly get started with this year's campaign.

Rain tonight. Rest day tomorrow followed by a week of sending temps. Bring it on!

[webbo]

 Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Various things to warm up repeat a 7a and 6c+ then a few easier things, before linking  2 problems to do a 35 move link.
We'd. Nothing.
Thu. Off work. Board work out a few new things on a hold that I could'nt really use before. Repeat a few things. Bike 2 hrs including 7 x 1 min on 2 mins off and 20 secs on 40 secs off 3 sets of 5.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Windy clough did Mr Owl ate my worm 2nd link after making a big mistake by carrying a chalk bag first go. I appear to have lost the skill of being able to chalk up while climbing. Did another 12 problems 6c+ 2 x 6c, 4 x 6a+ and 5 easier things. Well knackered at the end.
Sun. Feel wrecked. Bike 2 hrs steady

[fried]

Monday - Nothing
Tuesday - Indoors, good progress on a 6B+, some back stuff and do some weights for the first time in a while.
Wednesday - Nothing
Thursday -Indoors, good progress on another 6B+ that I wasn't flexible enough to get off the ground. More weights and stretching.
Friday - Sat - Rest

Sunday - Lots of rain this week but a O.K looking forecast. I head off for JA Martin to find something quick-drying. Usual pain au chocolat problems in Paris leave me hunting around unsucessfully in Achere for something to eat. The sun is out and it's unseasonably hot, warm up on some yellows/ oranges at the start, then head off uphill where I wander around aimlessly trying to find something I like. Get completely shut down (as usual) on a blue slab at the start, then lose the circuit completely and end up trying stuff in a newly burnt out section. Do some old blue problems, then pick up the start off the light blue circuit and do a couple more things, get shut down on more slabs. A lot more walking than climbing but a nice day out.Go home and stuff my face with a corned-beef omelette sandwich.

Weight 74.8kg

[T_B]

STG - Retain some strength over the next couple of months of not being able to put my left foot down at all! Not get fat.
MTG - One armer. Front lever.

83.1Kg

M -
T - Works. Campus board. 1-4, 1-4s and some bumping 1-4, 3-4, 2-4. assisted 1 armers and some 10 sec hangs on bottom BM crimps.
W -
T - Works. Started wk 1 of Chris Webb-Parsons' prog. Felt hard as I'm so weak on 1 arm hangs. Max assistance on a rope. Holding hold number 5 on the BM - too big?
F -
S - Crutched up the path towards the Plantation. Great to be out 
S - Works. Foot-on campussing. 5 x 2 mins on campus/fingerboards with 6-8 mins rest in between. Leg raises on the bar.

Did various 20 min sessions throughout the wk of push ups and crunches/leg raises too.

Got fingerboard put up at home on Sunday, so can do the CWP prog at home, though not totally convinced. It seemed more of a forearm workout than fingers, though maybe because I'm on too big an edge? If I hang hold 14 on the BM I don't think I can do 10 second hangs, even with a lot of assistance. I definitely feel more comfortable on two arm hangs with weight, but I don't have any weights at home and don't really want to add 20+Kgs to my already heavy frame and find myself pulling the fingerboard off the wall!!

[T_B]

Psyched to have managed Zeppelin despite having zero stamina! Great steep juggy fun!

Good effort - that crux is blind and powerful. Amazing route.

[Stubbs]

Tom, is it worth considering the original Beastmaker 3-2-1 training idea and start removing fingers rather than adding weight? http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/pages/training

[duncan]

M - Shoulder, wrist stuff
T - 4km run and much scurrying after offspring who learned to ride his bike this very day. A wonderful feeling and I think offspring enjoyed it too!
W -
T - Shoulder, wrist stuff
F - Woke with extremely painful right hip for no apparent reason. All the classic old-man symptoms ‘can you tie my shoelaces, please’, hobbled around all day, not fun at all
S - Family trip to Swanage. Left at family-friendly time, consequently epic drive due mid-morning traffic, roadworks and multiple toilet stops. Arrived more than usually frazzled, set up camping and paid-off offspring with expensive trip to fun-fair. Limped to the steep end of Boulder Ruckle to meet up with Iain, Ed and Lee. Ed had a go at Mother Africa, and I climbed up and down the first section a couple of times by way of warm-up. Tried Barracuda, did the psychological crux without much bother but got completely spanked on the next section up to the break. Ed took over and (gratifyingly  ) had an equally hard time on it. Meanwhile, Iain was cruising his way up Wall of the Worlds. Note to any High Tor guidebook writers who may be reading, Amber Gambler is definitely harder than this.
S - Swanage Railway - offspring overjoyed at life-size version of Thomas the Tank engine. Had excellent cream tea in Wareham and slunk home. Family had a great time and thoroughly embraced camping. Not sure this is a good thing (from an utterly selfish climber’s perspective) or not!

A catalogue of poor strategies. I struggle to make mixed family and climbing trips work. I consume far too much energy getting everyone out of the house and to the venue to have much left for the rock. Neither party are happy: family don’t feel they are getting a proper holiday, it’s just an excuse for Dad to go climbing, Dad feels pressured to perform in limited time available. Consequently proper warm-ups go to pot and predictable results ensue. Shark, or any other climbing parents, where’s your blog on this? I need help or at least moral support. And another several things: don’t try pushing your grade on your anti-style or with 3.5 functioning limbs (unless you’re Dave Macleod), don’t try Swanage pumpathons having done nothing but a couple of days to the less steep bits of High Tor in last 2 months, and don’t try to lead stuff on other people’s racks (Ed, what were you thinking with only 9 quick-draws and no large wires or hexs in Boulder Ruckle?!).

It is a pity to have blown the onsight on one of the classic Swanage E4s and perhaps I should have been a bit less ambitious given the circumstances but you have to get on things and fail from time to time. Trad. season seems to be holding down here but I need to be a lot fitter and a bit leaner. E5 seems a long way off.

[T_B]

Tom, is it worth considering the original Beastmaker 3-2-1 training idea and start removing fingers rather than adding weight? http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/pages/training

V good point Stubbs. Previously I had identified that my index fingers are incredibly weak so front 3 way weaker than my back three. If I haven't got my little finger on, I'm pathetic. So, I might get more gains trying to sort out my index fingers.

[Dolly]

M The wave at lunchtime. Pilates in the evening followed by inclined treadmill sprints intervals (lets call them ITSIs from now on)
T Wave again. I was too tired as it was 4th day on. Ended up just doing some traversing
W Core session @ gym
T Shed. Good session. Felt beasted afterwards. The smell told us that something quite big (fox maybe) has died under the shed and I can't see it/get to it to work out what it is
F
S Was going to go for a run until my son bowled a cricket ball at my ankle so ended up RICE instead.
S Very quick Burbage session. Was boiling. Hurt other side of the same ankle coming down a helter skelter with my youngest.

[shark]

S Was going to go for a run until my son bowled a cricket ball at my ankle so ended up RICE instead.
S Hurt other side of the same ankle coming down a helter skelter with my youngest.

You're more accident prone than Joe Simpson

[Dolly]

S Was going to go for a run until my son bowled a cricket ball at my ankle so ended up RICE instead.
S Hurt other side of the same ankle coming down a helter skelter with my youngest.

You're more accident prone than Joe Simpson

   I blame the kids

[the_dom]

Not a great week.

Mon: Early start to fly up to Johannesburg. Did my leg rehab exercises and rowing machine intervals.

Tues: Indoor bouldering at a local wall. Was going well for approx. 90 mins until I split a tip and decided to stop there. Week's psyche started going downhill from there.

Wed: Leg rehab exercises, rowing machine intervals and 20 mins on the stationary bike. I hate the stationary bike.

Thurs: Rest. Beer.

Fri: Drove up to Rocklands. Should have been psyched, but wasn't. Beer.

Sat: Rocklands. Went for a solitary boulder at 8 Day Rain. Did a bunch of 6Cs and a 7A as a warmup but failed dismally on Taboo, 7C. Fingers were hurting under the fingernails when I crimped, which is annoying. Got over it and went back to the cottage to drink beer and eat ostrich steak.

Sun: Didn't feel like climbing at the thought of doing battle with sore fingernails so decided to head home in the hopes of a surf. Cape Town was too windy. Rowing machine intervals and 20 mins on the stationary bike. I hate the stationary bike.

Feeling dramatically unpsyched. Going to take a week off climbing in the hopes that my fingernails will hurt less.

[nai]

M - hald an ancap endurance-of-some-kind session. Core Eve
T Mini works with youngest for Strike Day. Couple of hard problems and a 10 minute traverse, was pleasing to be able to recover at hands-on rests. Core Eve
w
T - Rain stopped play so Max hangs and core
F - plan A was the tor - rained off. Plan b - board - decided aginst due to a tweaky PIP. 8.5km run. Core Eve
S - AM - half a max hangs session, felt strong, managed to one-arm the bar and nearly the beast. Cliff PM, good volume session despite kids being along.
S - Brimham, terrible session not helped by condition of the rock or myself.

decent week, think I'm fully tapered and ready to crush but woke up with a tweaky forearm this morning, seems to be a case of two steps forward and one back at the moment.

EDIT: With the scheduled endurance based training complete I'm now opting to work on developing strength in an ad-hoc kind of way so max hangs, 4 rep repeaters (AnPow?) and hard bouldering, short sessions to fit in between, and not hinder, climbing sessions.  Good idea or just rest up and be ready to crush?

[tomtom]

2013 totals:
Outdoor: 87
Indoor: 6
Training: 7
New Grade 7's 20

Back from Honeymoon II (Crete) on Tuesday night... worked like a dog wed > friday. Managed to make it down to the Depot on thursday evening with RobL - good to meet up with AndyD, TommyZTone, El Stallioni and a few others...

I'd signed up to go on Barrows training/masterclass thingy, but then knacked my middle finger on the lovely (but unforgiving) wood problems. I was really worried by it - no noises but felt like wanked A2... I've been resting it since - and doing a few pullups/doorframe deadhangs it feels OK - so I think/hope its alright.

Crete took its toll - the Souvlaki count was high - and weight has increased. Term has started and despite (allegedly) being on study leave this semester I have 1001 things to do. Roll on cold temps and grit season - I need some psyche....

[shark]

I struggle to make mixed family and climbing trips work ... Shark, or any other climbing parents, where’s your blog on this? I need help or at least moral support. )

A big topic. 

I think a good starting point is to understand your enemy.Most partners (lets call them Climbing Prevention Officers) will have realised that climbers are never satisfied and have a bottomless desire to go climbing and the more you do the more you want to do more. Try and make it not seem like that to your CPO even if it is the truth. If you are in deadlock/stalemate then maybe something drastic like negotiating an annual plan or at least renegotiating the terms of engagement is required. Failing that keep nagging (they can say no 99 times but only have to say yes once). Sulking whilst neither mature or pretty can be effective. Get the kids climbing and taking them climbing can count as childcare. Work hard at getting your partner interested in climbing has got to be worth trying too.

Obviously locating yourself near a climbing area and having a flexible job are ways round. We all have choices.   

[Grubes]

Thurs: TR'ing on a mysteriously-overlooked line (extension to existing short route) in the middle of one of Squamish's best sport cliffs. Surprisingly climbable (.12b ish) and worthwhile but needs bolts; splitting & stacking firewood

I assume that is nightmare wall and not cheakamus. I hated cheak
Which route?

[Duma]

Nice one Muenchener.

STG - fix finger
MTG - keep niggles in check, run regularly, get out more. If I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M-
T - Redpoint for gentle plastic routes session, went ok, no falls and a few 7a+'s
W -
T -
F - Run, 10m, 1:33. nice to get out in the woods, feel like I'm doing something.
S -
S -
 
69kg.

Another crappy week, finger still doesn't feel up to bouldering, loads of work since end of Aug also sapping I suppose. Rota eases now though so hopefully things'll improve.

[iain]

Cheque, that's a great start to the trip, bodes well.

Good work Muenchener 


STG: Infinite Gravity

Mon: Rest

Tues: Works circuits. It's been a few weeks since I did these so I was expecting a drop in performance and I wasn't disappointed. Completed 2x3 laps on the 7b, with varying rests between and during laps as other people on the wall.

Wed: Works bouldering. Long session, quality efforts with plenty of rest.

Thurs: Rest

Fri: 4.5 hour drive to Swanage and head down to get on Wall of the Worlds. Get up the easy section to the first gear and start trying to figure the moves above but smeggy conditions and a rapid flash pump result in a down climb and exit.

Sat: A day of two parts. First was a visit to Infinite Gravity. Was in a 3 initially so I left them to do routes and abbed down the line cleaning and trying moves as best I could. Got some useful new beta but confirmed that conditions were rubbish. Retrieved some knackered gear, (although need to go back with pliers/hammer to get one bit out,)
but the quickdraw I left in a year ago was in ok nick. There are some weird micro-conditions in the cave.

Then headed back to Wall of the Worlds meeting Duncan. Turns out that abbing IG was a great warm up and conditions were good. After loooong stops at the rests, some brief, terrified gibbering to myself at the crux and the filthiest top-out I've dealt with at Swanage I did my first guidebook E5. Very pleased.
Didn't see much of what else was going on except for Ed repeatedly appearing then rapidly disappearing on Mother Africa. Need to try that sometime.

Sun: Anticipated poor conditions, a late start by my partner and feeling battered by the previous day meant that IG wasn't on. Had an easy day repeating routes at Winspit


In contrast to last week's downbeat post this was a productive week with a start made on IG and ticking a route I've wanted to get on for ages which was every bit as good as I hoped.
Have definite days on IG this weekend and next so keeping finger's crossed the weather plays nice for a while.

[nai]

I struggle to make mixed family and climbing trips work ... Shark, or any other climbing parents, where’s your blog on this? I need help or at least moral support. )

Work hard at getting your partner interested in belaying has got to be worth trying too.

sorted that for you

[Luke Owens]

Fri: 4.5 hour drive to Swanage

That's a long old way! You must be psyched for Swanage!

I did my first guidebook E5. Very pleased.

Great effort!

[Sasquatch]

STG - 8A+ Local Project - SUCCESSFULY COMPLETED  
STG - God Module(8A) in HP 40 in Early Oct (prob have crap conditions, so may not go so well) FAIL
MTG - Plan trip and go back and finish off Mandala this winter
LTG - 8B and 8B+ local projects.  They finally feel possible...

This week was visiting the inlaws in rural Alabama. 

M - Run 6 mi, then a night session down to HP to check it out.  Note - going to a brand new area by yourself at night is a bit spooky.  Overall had a really good session.  Did a bunch of classic and ticked three problems off my life list - Millipede, Bumboy, and Slider    Didn't get God Module which is the other on the list from the area,  although I did stick the crux first move.  Only 1 pad and no spotter made me too scared of finishing it.  Did manage to compleetly freak myself out on another problem with a dirty slopey topout in the pitch black and no pad under me and no chalk.  Did the slap, slide, slap, slide grovel up the top....  Way too close to taking a fall I doubt I would have walked away from.... Very poor decision making. 
T - Got very drunk with in-laws
W - Headed to check out local waterfall area.  Ended up doing some really fun shoeless, chalkless DWS (up to 25ft) and cliff jumping.
Th - Headed back to HP 40 in the morning. The plan was to go with son#1, but ended up with wife, Son, brother in law and father in law.  I was hoping to get out early for better temps/conditions, but with all the add-ons, that wasn't about to happen.  Had a ton of fun and did 35 problems up tio 7C, but didn't manage to get back on God Module.  Happened to randomly flash a 7C though, which was my first confirmed flash of the grade
F - Drove from Alabama to New Orleans - Loads of drinking and eating
S - Loads of drinking and eating
S - Loads of drinking and eating

[Sasquatch]

A catalogue of poor strategies. I struggle to make mixed family and climbing trips work. I consume far too much energy getting everyone out of the house and to the venue to have much left for the rock. Neither party are happy: family don’t feel they are getting a proper holiday, it’s just an excuse for Dad to go climbing, Dad feels pressured to perform in limited time available. Consequently proper warm-ups go to pot and predictable results ensue. Shark, or any other climbing parents, where’s your blog on this? I need help or at least moral support.

So I just got back from this as well and I struggle with it.  Ours was without a doubt a "family holiday", but there was no way I was going to miss getting a day of Bouldering in at HP40 when it was only 45 minutes away.  What I find has to happen to make it work is to ensure they have a good time and are active for a significant chunk of the day.  That way they don't feel abandoned or cheated.  They have a great time, which then makes them more likely to be supportive of your activity.  This can be exhausting though, and doesn't always work.  The first night I snuck out to go check out HP 40, I got the "abandon" guilt trip as I walked out the door because it was the "first day" with her parents and I was leaving.  I went anyway, and while I felt mildly guilty, I also know that it was a far better decision this way.  If I had stayed I would have been frustrated at not going and adding that to the in-law stress I would have been less than nice.  That said, she called me while I was driving and recognized that it was the right call and wished me luck....  I have a great wife....

Dunno if that helps, or even gives moral support, but I feel ya....  It's always a struggle. 

[Ti_pin_man]

I think a parentBoulderingWorld wold be a great thread.

[Luke Owens]

I think a parentBoulderingWorld wold be a great thread.

+1

I've had a great year and progressed a ton with my climbing and our first child has just turned 1 today!

It really helped when I got my partner into climbing, not so much because she climbs as well now but more so that she understands my obsessive mentality and why I'm "So psyched I finally stuck the last heinous move on my proj".

We've got a trip to Font planned for the end of the month and it's just our son, my partner and I and we're both just as excited for the climbing!

[krymson]

[Happened to randomly flash a 7C though, which was my first confirmed flash of the grade

[T_B]

Shark, or any other climbing parents, where’s your blog on this?

Take the inlaws with you.

(Handy for when you fall off and break yourself - their day at the beach isn't ruined whilst you're en route to hospital  )

[iain]

Thanks Luke

You must be psyched for Swanage!

I used to live nearer there, heading back means seeing friends and getting back on Infinite Gravity, both of which are well worth the travel.

[Sasquatch]

I think a parentBoulderingWorld wold be a great thread.

[Happened to randomly flash a 7C though, which was my first confirmed flash of the grade

Thanks.  I didn't have a guidebook so I was just running around climbing stuff that looked cool, and happened to nail this one

[SA Chris]

I struggle to make mixed family and climbing trips work.

I'm starting to wonder if it's worth it. Better to leave family trips as family trips, and climbing trips as climbing trips. Constantly trying to push the climbing agenda just causes stress and frustration. Just grab your free time on evenings and weekends, and once in every 7 blue moons have a short climbing holiday with a climbing partner or mates and focus on getting some stuff done.

See also "mixed family and surfing" and "mixed family and skiing"

T_Bs advice of taking your parents or inlaws along is good if you get on with them well enough, but can make things a bit expensive if you are paying for accomodation etc. I would choose my inlaws over parents TBH.
 

[shark]

I struggle to make mixed family and climbing trips work.

I'm starting to wonder if it's worth it. Better to leave family trips as family trips, and climbing trips as climbing trips.

Obviously there are some compromises to be made on both sides but its got to be better than a non-climbing holiday.
 
Choice of location is a big factor in making it work ie easy proximity to both climbing and beach/lake. Locations that have worked well for us are Ailefroide/Briancon, Arco, Mallorca and the Ardeche. And of course Font.

Also going with another climbing family or having a team local also helps.

[andy popp]

I struggle to make mixed family and climbing trips work.

I'm starting to wonder if it's worth it. Better to leave family trips as family trips, and climbing trips as climbing trips.

Obviously there are some compromises to be made on both sides but its got to be better than a non-climbing holiday.
 

Personally, I'm not convinced of even that and never really bothered trying myself.

[duncan]

Thanks for the comments about combining family and climbing trips. It has clarified my thoughts on the matter and been useful therapy. 

I think a parentBoulderingWorld wold be a great thread.

Almost enough material for a spin-off thread?

I struggle to make mixed family and climbing trips work ... Shark, or any other climbing parents, where’s your blog on this? I need help or at least moral support.

Shark didn't make the basic error of marrying a Japanese woman ...

Take the inlaws with you.
(Handy for when you fall off and break yourself - their day at the beach isn't ruined whilst you're en route to hospital  )

The slight flaw in this plan is that they live 6000 miles away. My Mum lives in Somerset which can be useful.

Work hard at getting your partner interested in belaying has got to be worth trying too.

I tried the climbing and belaying thing a few years ago. Not into climbing. For a multitude of reasons I’m much happier with almost anyone else belaying me!

In the long-term, I’m hoping the offspring training programme will work, although the age gap is pretty huge.

So I just got back from this as well and I struggle with it.  Ours was without a doubt a "family holiday", but there was no way I was going to miss getting a day of Bouldering in at HP40 when it was only 45 minutes away.  What I find has to happen to make it work is to ensure they have a good time and are active for a significant chunk of the day.  That way they don't feel abandoned or cheated.  They have a great time, which then makes them more likely to be supportive of your activity.  This can be exhausting though, and doesn't always work.  The first night I snuck out to go check out HP 40, I got the "abandon" guilt trip as I walked out the door because it was the "first day" with her parents and I was leaving.  I went anyway, and while I felt mildly guilty, I also know that it was a far better decision this way.  If I had stayed I would have been frustrated at not going and adding that to the in-law stress I would have been less than nice.  That said, she called me while I was driving and recognized that it was the right call and wished me luck....  I have a great wife....

Dunno if that helps, or even gives moral support, but I feel ya....  It's always a struggle.

Sounds extremely familiar.

I've had a great year and progressed a ton with my climbing and our first child has just turned 1 today!

It really helped when I got my partner into climbing, not so much because she climbs as well now but more so that she understands my obsessive mentality and why I'm "So psyched I finally stuck the last heinous move on my proj".

We've got a trip to Font planned for the end of the month and it's just our son, my partner and I and we're both just as excited for the climbing!

That's great to hear. Font has been the one unalloyed success. Partially because it offers a lot for non-climbers (but so does Purbeck when the sun shines). Also that bouldering is so much more time-efficient. I can get completely spanked in a couple of hours, whereas sea-cliff trad. can easily occupy all the daylight hours (and sometimes more!). I think the main reason is that bouldering is the one type of climbing where goal-orientated Duncan can take time off and let the natural child have a play.

If I do a combined family and climbing trip I think I have to try to be Bob.

In the main I agree with Andy.