[csl]

Goals
Climb 2x a week
Fingerboard 2x a week
Get outside 2x a month

Mon -
Tue - KK. Bouldering. Up to V6. Tried a few harder things but nothing ticked. Fingerboard strength.
Wed -
Thu - Pinnacle. Actually felt surprisingly strong. Onsighted lots of stuff up to V6. Didnt try anything more than once so didn't do anything harder. On routes, severely lacking stamina, on the main wall did a 7a to about 3/4 height. A 7b to just under 1/2 height and a 6c+ to about 3/4.
Fri - 10.5 km run off road in morning.
Sat - nowt
Sun - fingerboard strength.

[fried]

Winter is coming...

Although you wouldn't believe it with the weather.

I need to get back into some BM stuff now I can't use the temperature as an excuse, I also need to work on some flexibility problems, my back is O.K, but that's only because all the muscles have contracted around by lower back. This isn't too much of a problem outside, but indoors where to up the level you need to be able to put your feet near your ears...

Monday - Rest
Tuesday - Intend to climb, but feel a bit knackered, lucky really as I forgot to put my climbing trousers in my work bag.
Wednesday - Indoor. New problems, difficulty seems increased. Good.
Thursday - Friday - Rest
Saturday - Indoors, continue to work a problem, 6A+, very hard for me . I was convinced that it was seriously overgraded but with a bit of work it starts fitting together. Matched up moves on overhanging slopers into a long reach for rubbish. job done. I love climbing. Walk outside and the sun is shining. I should be outside.
Sunday - First BM session, hard, have to clean the grease off the board, need to stop eating kebabs.

[rich d]

Goal font 7a.

Mon fingerboard session
Tues 20 hrs in work nada
Wed another 4am start, was going o go to Glasgow tca but too knackered - bit of core in hotel room
Thurs back at 9pm from work nada
Friday friends round OT proper pissed
Sat old style hangover
Sun morning session at depot notts. did a few reds flashing a few.

Work really got in the way this week.

Goals for this week, indoors x2 outdoors x1. Core and flexibility every day. Fingerboard x2.

[nai]

goals 8a & E4

M - 30 minutes hard bouldering, just six attempts on a few max moves
T - 2 tier, got pumped on 6B warm up. Managed Why Me? in two parts but didn't RP, seems I'd been expecting a bit much to be going anything like well so soon after a training block. Core eve
w - 30 minutes hard bouldering. Core eve
t - 7.3km run
f - Stoney, got pumped on V3 warmup, lead a couple of E2s ok. Eve - 30 mins hard bouldering + core
s
S - 30 mins bouldering.

In taper mode, felt dreadful at the start of the week but a bit better now, can't climb til Thursday so going to try half an endurance session tomorrow ahead of then.

[Muenchener]

STG (2013): Frankenjura VII onsight
MTG (Spring 2014) 7a redpoint
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M: Oktoberfest with my son, so more rollercoasters than beer. Rollercoasters are  . Counts as falling practice.
T: Knee Physio then wall, Thalkirchen: short, weak, desultory bouldering session.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes 5b 5c 6a+ 6b 6b 6b 6a+ 6b 6a+ 6a 6a. A fairly relaxed mileage session, for which yesterday's feeble bouldering performance at least seems to have served as a warm up.
T: Knee Physio
F:
S: Family hut weekend with kids. Breaking in new Proper Mountain Boots (Scarpa Triolets) - the first ones I've had since Mark I Koflachs circa 1980
S: ditto

[Ti_pin_man]

Stg: font 7a - bold aim for old guy

M -  core 101 at 6am - it's my wedding anniversary so no climbing today
T - hard climb usual pattern of 40/60 mins easy then projects for about same and cool down.  Core repeat of 101.
W - nada
Th - hard climb , see above, although if truth be known I don't feel I climbed that hard on the projects and slacked off a bit to do slack line.
F - core 101 at 6.30 then medium session on FB before taking cat to vet urgently
Sat and Sun rest.

Don't feel it was a great week.  Need to pick it up next week more.  Move to projects on v4 not v3. Arranging to meet with mentor to check my logic and next steps.

[JackAus]

STG: V7
MTG: DWS developing
LTG: V11

M: DWS project day 1. First climb at new wall on the river. About 12-15m high wall, stepped roofs. Fucking quality route, really fun. Coming off about 2/3rds of the way up trying to get around the roof lip. Pic below!
T:
W: DWS day 2. Some progress but not much. Still hard! Had half a dozen attempts and still couldn't work out the moves but think I have it now.
T: New basalt bouldering area. Did pretty much everything there, put up maybe 10 problems. Everything is vertical and with slopey breaks. Every line seemed to have a sketchy last move, most of them 4m+ up... Really insecure!
F:
S:
S:



Line starts on the small triangular ledge (3m off the water), moves left a few metres then up into the roof, big moves out then left along the lip to the arete and up... Fun fun..

[krymson]

Sticking with Hi/Lo
STG is get strong while rehabing right middle finger so i can crimp again

Monday weights
levers felt easier
Tuesday ARC 30 minutes
Wednesday Steep board with a strong friend.
strong friend was too strong so working similar problems wasnt very effective unfortunately. rain clouds cut the session short.
Thursday Bouldering gym.
Links are working - previously hard problems feel like power endurance fests now.
previously Impossible problems feel nails now but doable in a month maybe.
Friday weights.
Making progress on the one armer (6 reps, -70lbs).
Saturday ARC - seems to be working -- getting harder to get pumped.
Sunday Steep board.
Warm up with dynos - my weakness, and then worked 2 to 4 move links on brick hard problems with shit feet. Felt soooo good to work hard moves where you are just BARELY holding on through a combination of body tension and sheer willpower.

[Luke Owens]

M: Rest

T: Dinbren - Did "Ice" (F7b) 2nd redpoint of the evening, a real fight against the pump! Another anti-style steep route tick, psyched! (Although Ally wouldn't call it steep!)

W: Lunch: 3km run in 14 mins
Evening: Feet-on Fingerboarding: 8 x (2 mins on 2 mins rest)

T: Lunch: 3km run in 15 mins
Evening: Aerocap - 30 mins

F: Rest

S: Pen Trwyn - Put the clips in on the classic Axle Attack (F7a+), did all the moves but didn't find the crux the most tricky part!

Had a working lead go and did it with a few rests and refined beta.

1st redpoint fell off just before the crux, 2nd redpoint fell off the crux going for the mono and re-tweaked an A2 pully on my left hand on an awkward crimp. Got back on and climbed to the top.

Getting very pumped on a non-steep route again, solidifies my need for endurance training this winter!

S: Rest

[the_dom]

Another long post - I've been busy.

Monday: Took the day off work so went sport climbing for the first time in 2013. Did 6 or 7 short routes up to about 7a - but definitely feeling the fatigue after a heavy weekend. Snuck out for a quick (45 min) surf in fantastic, albeit quite small, uncrowded waves before dark. Living the dream.

Tuesday: Bouldering in the morning at the closest local boulder. OPened a new 7B/+ish eliminate, but didn't make too much progress on my project. Followed it up with a surf in increasingly crappy conditions. Ended the day, and an obscenely good long weekend, with beer and a barbecue.

Wednesday: Back to reality with a thump. 4AM start to catch a 6AM plane to Johannesburg. 8 hour workshop, followed by a 7PM flight home. Shattered. Rest day.

Thursday: Sneaky, really good hour of hangboarding (9 x 1 Arm lockoffs, 2 x F3 repeaters on the small edges on the BM2K) followed by an hour of torture at the biokineticist, followed by an hour or so at the climbing gym. Felt properly worked by the end of it.

Friday: Snuck out for a surf with one of my minions in the afternoon - quite big and messy and a huge rip. And freaking cold. Lasted about an hour before cold and disquiet at being alone at the back got to me and I headed in.

Saturday: Reflected on how being cold in the surf sucks and went and bought a new wetsuit to replace my 13 year old suit. And a new 6'9 swallowtail. Didn't get to surf though, but snuck a hangboard session in:
- 9 x 1 arm lockoffs per arm
- 10 x max hangs alternating one hand on the 35 sloper and one hand on the 45 sloper on the BM2K
- 2 x F3 repeaters (small edge)
- 2 x half crimp repeaters (small edge)
- 2 x 35 sloper repeaters

Sunday: Took new board and wettie out at a spot I'd never surfed before. Pretty big swell and a slightly intimidating spot meant I dodged sets and didn't actually get any waves. Oh well. Just being out helped somewhat with my confidence in waves of more consequence. Went bouldering in the PM at another small local spot. Managed to repeat a bunch of things up to 7B+ish (all of which I've done on numerous occasions), and came very close to a 7C+ that I've only ever done twice, both when I've been really strong. A minor YYFY because I've been climbing very little recently.

Overall, a good week. Spending lots of time outside and enjoying it again. Off to Rocklands this weekend, probably for the last time this year. Have my eyes on some 7Bs and 7Cs that I've not done yet - maybe I'll tick one or two.

[T_B]

STG - Retain some strength over the next couple of months of not being able to put my left foot down at all! Not get fat.
MTG - One armer. Front lever.

83.3Kg

M - T - Some crunches, leg raises and push ups.
F - Fracture clinic. Cast off, stitches out, still quite swollen. Surprised by muscle wastage in just 2 weeks! New cast on for 4 weeks, in a boot after that. But it sounds as though 12 wks non weight bearing in total 
S - The Works. First session 15 days post op. Some foot on campussing, doing 1-4, deadhangs and general messing about. Just good to be pulling again.
S -

Plan to do two works sessions a week, with one mainly core and foot-on campussing and the other fingerboarding and 1-4 (too scared to commit to 1-5 on Sat as don't want to fall off out of control). Then at home when fingerboard up, one or two sessions on that. So no more than 3 sessions of fingerboarding and even that might be overdoing it...

1Kg weight loss this week. That will be muscle then! Have had a massive appetite this week - don't know if that is to do with the injury, or being inactive, or hopping around actually using up calories or what?

[the_dom]

STG - Retain some strength over the next couple of months of not being able to put my left foot down at all! Not get fat.
MTG - One armer. Front lever.

83.3Kg

M - T - Some crunches, leg raises and push ups.
F - Fracture clinic. Cast off, stitches out, still quite swollen. Surprised by muscle wastage in just 2 weeks! New cast on for 4 weeks, in a boot after that. But it sounds as though 12 wks non weight bearing in total 
S - The Works. First session 15 days post op. Some foot on campussing, doing 1-4, deadhangs and general messing about. Just good to be pulling again.
S -

Plan to do two works sessions a week, with one mainly core and foot-on campussing and the other fingerboarding and 1-4 (too scared to commit to 1-5 on Sat as don't want to fall off out of control). Then at home when fingerboard up, one or two sessions on that. So no more than 3 sessions of fingerboarding and even that might be overdoing it...

1Kg weight loss this week. That will be muscle then! Have had a massive appetite this week - don't know if that is to do with the injury, or being inactive, or hopping around actually using up calories or what?

Tom, as a word of warning - I hurt my knee a while ago, which meant that the only training I could do was hangboarding and campusing. My elbows flared up quite seriously. Maybe do some preventative maintenance on them (a la the Dodgy Elbows article) with your current training?

[T_B]

Yeah I'm pretty conscious of that. I've had golfer's elbow before brought on by locking off on the fingerboard and tennis elbow from campussing. The latter was actually caused by my shoulder and was sorted with physio and the dumbbell exercises. I've been doing a lot of those tricep push ups a la the Sean McColl video. Hopefully they're of some use.

[Dolly]

M drove to Wales and worked late
T Weights in the hotel room and a run at night
W worked for 15.5 hours
T Weights in hotel room
F utterly knackered
S Run in the morning and a quick shed session. Still felt knackered
S Took smallest child to Carrhead rocks for a play. Boiling but nice to be there


Another week of too much work, not enough exercise or climbing and I ended up putting on weight in Wales.
I reckon I've got a couple of weeks to get myself sorted before it starts to be grit time

[shark]

11.5-6

M.Noon: Systems board - Fingery endurance. With 2 days off was expecting a good score and got it. Eve. Weighted deadhangs whilst Poppy at Brownies. Poor scores. Felt wiped so skipped assisted 1armers. Felt like flu was on the way with glands in my neck up
T. Systems board 20:10's One set only - felt haggard. Eve Foundry with Poppy Warm. Did a couple of stiff level 2's.
W.
T.
F. Malham sounded iffy so didnt go up. Eve. Fingerboard -nearly up to best on three finger weighted hangs at 32.5kg. 1 armers just off best too
S.
S.  Malham. Late start as Sonia was helping on drink station on Great Yorkshire Run. Went up with Tommy and Steve. Roasting when we got there at 3pm but Oak and everything else was bone dry. I was apprehensive how I would do after a fortnight away from real rock  Some foot and hand holds were glassy even in shade. Dogged a bit on 7th Aardvark with Tommy while Steve glued his hold. First go on Oak got the key link of first undercut to horn. Subsequent goes reworked start which I hadn't tried since spring which went ok except boss was greasy. Struggled on going off sloper to big undercut on first traverse but on last go linked big undercut to top straight despite poor light. Tommy redpointed Seventh Arrdvark - launching into top runout despite being pumped. His first 7b lead indoors or out 

Hopefully back to Malham on thursday a bit lighter with better conditions. Any takers? 

[cheque]

Tommy redpointed Seventh Aardvark - launching into top runout despite being pumped. His first 7b lead indoors or out 

  Awesome!

Tapering this week- not recovering or climbing very well and certainly not capable of the intense volume sessions I've been doing in the past couple of months. Hopefully this is a sign of my RRG training reaching a natural end rather than overdoing it.

M- Rest.
T- Notts Depot circuit board. Worked white 7a (that was previously graded 6b+)- made it through the first crux and to the second one on best go but faded pretty fast after that. Decided not to push it further.
W- Rest. Knackered.
T- Edge. Wasn't really psyched to go but wanted to climb on the steepest wall and take falls having done neither for a fortnight. Wasn't an enjoyable session- got pumped quite quickly, climbed like shit and wasn't in the right frame of mind to go "a muerte" on the routes. Took loads of falls though and realised on the way home that a light session now comprises 7 pitches so hopefully I made the right choice.
F- Rest.
S- Rest.
S- Walk around Dimmings Dale, a model-village version of the Red River Gorge. No climbing but visited lots of crags for the first time, some I'm psyched to return to, some I'm frankly not. First time I'd been to the Churnet in decent conditions.

Looking over from hanging off one 45 degree wall at the Edge on Thursday night I watched someone crushing a 7b on the big articulated one thinking "fucking hell, this is what I'm hoping to be doing on my imminent trip and I'm just over here having to make myself jump off a 6c". Hopefully a week's RnR and some real rock will make this happen for me!

[duncan]

STG: Don’t get injured, maintain fitness, regain the faith.
MTG: OS E5; RP 7b
LTG: Long rock routes in Alps and USA

Missed a couple of weeks due to not doing much. Work very busy, motivation still a little intermittent and suffering wrist tweakage. The latter two are on the mend.

M  - Long - for me - slow run up Parliament Hill.
T -
W -
T - Wrist and shoulder stuff
F - Short run
S - High Tor with Iain. Glorious weather, nearly too hot when the sun came onto the face, and almost busy with 4 other teams on the crag. Average age may even have been under 40! Folk were mainly on the moderate classics but TobyD  and JulesV both dispatched Reproduction, they were very smooth and it looks to be a fine route. Warmed up repeating Debauchery, great fun as ever.  As we got back to base someone fell off Original Route from 30’ ending inverted about 2’ off the deck. Only a rope fortuitously catching on a spike stopped him decking out. He was the one person at the crag not wearing a helmet. Briefly checked him out and he seemed to have got away with just scrapes and bruises. Lead Robert Brown. A week of fairly intensive work, driving from London on my own, and perhaps the after-effects of seeing the fall (this kind of thing has bad memories for me) kicked in so we called it a day.
S - Chilling with the family

Robert Brown was the last of the classic High Tor E3s to do and very good it was too.  It does feel like you have all your eggs in one basket on the crux with all the gear behind one slightly hollow flake. I got a bit more committed than expected but still felt gratifyingly at ease on it. This is not a kind of climbing I do regularly now and not something I want to cultivate: it’s still rather seductive and eventually you get unlucky.

Wrist feels alright climbing outdoors but doesn’t much like wood or plastic. Motivation must be on the mend if I can be happy driving 6 hours round trip for two routes. I should try to get away again at the weekend and attempt something a bit harder if the good chuffing weather continues.

[Wood FT]

Tommy redpointed Seventh Arrdvark - launching into top runout despite being pumped.

Great, i've now been burnt off by father and son

As we got back to base someone fell off Original Route from 30’ ending inverted about 2’ off the deck. Only a rope fortuitously catching on a spike stopped him decking out.

 

[shark]

Tommy redpointed Seventh Arrdvark - launching into top runout despite being pumped. His first 7b lead indoors or out 

Awesome. Just curious: how tall is Tommy now?

Steve asked the same question. We measure for interest and to check for growth spurts but don't know his actual height .. or weight come to that. 

I'll check tonight.

[shark]

157cm, 43.5kg and fingers like Lynn Hill's 

..and still three months off being a teenager

[gme]

 Betfair refused my money when I asked for odds on him doing the oak before his dad.

[webbo]

 Mon. Bike 20 secs on 40 secs off x 5 4 sets.
Tue . Board mirror session after moving loads of rubble.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Board bit of a random session, struggling.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Board repeated a few recent problems struggling again. Bike 3 hrs very windy.
Sun. Board mirror session climbing better than yesterday. Bike 1 hr 7 x 1 min on 2 mins off.

[Duma]

Nothing. Nights all week. Finger still sore. 70Kg

[shark]

157cm, 43.5kg and fingers like Lynn Hill's 

..and still three months off being a teenager

His BMI is barely teenage too. You are going to have to add weight to him ...

What source are you using? On this he came out as a healthy weight and 45centile for his age

[AJM]

Robert Brown was the last of the classic High Tor E3s to do and very good it was too.  It does feel like you have all your eggs in one basket on the crux with all the gear behind one slightly hollow flake. I got a bit more committed than expected...

I remember finding an unexpected degree of commitment too! It was just a bit further than I expected to reach the next oasis of calm

I vaguely recall a cam under the roof on the right for the crux though, I don't think I was solely reliant on the stuff on the left in that flake.