[shark]

11.4-6

M.
T. AM Systems board fingery endurance. Good sess Eve Foundry with Poppy - did 3 pinks on Wave.
W.ay at home.
T. Intended to go to Malham but had an office break-in to deal with. Turned out Malham was wet anyway. Noon. Systems board - one set of 20:10s to ease back into it. Eve. Weighted deadhangs and assisted one armers
F. Noon. Fingery endurance. Eve Pub for old skool reunion
S. AM Park run with Poppy. Reports that Malham still wet
S. Nice day. No psyche. So had a lazyish day at home.

Lots went on this week businesswise. Some good training sessions but Oak is wet. If reports that its dry will go up friday.

[Muenchener]

STG (2013): Frankenjura VII onsight
MTG (Spring 2014) 7a redpoint
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M: Knee Physio
T:
W: Knee Physio
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Endurance circuits.
F: Karwendel hiking: Tölzer Hut work outing with colleagues: a social trip so a fairly leisurely pace, but still a thousand metres height gain on a Friday evening after work must be of some training benefit.
S:
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. A dozen problems up to 6Aish to warm up, then endurance circuits. Worked a 40-move 7a, only a couple of hardish moves, linked it in three overlapping sections. Need to be careful here: until now my hardest grade climbed has always been on rock not plastic, and it would be sad not to maintain that track record.
And was smiled at by an official ukb DFBWGC and bouldering world cup semifinalist

[nai]

goals 8a & E4

M - 4x4 2 on, 3off, failed 3rd problem, 6th set.
      4 x2mins foot-on campussing, failed -10s & -20s sets 3&4
T - circuit 2:40 on, 8off. failed -15s & -20s sets 5&6
w 
t - circuit, failed set 6 -45s
f - started warming up intending to do 4x10 easy problems, got sidetracked and ended up having to try repeaters instead, completed 1 set then it all went wrong.
s 
S tried warming up while adding new holds to the board but had to sack it off, felt very tweaky

Fairly good week but felt proper knackered last few days. Nipper at school full time now so will start getting out

[Luke Owens]

Started working out in my work lunch break. Requested to extend it to 45mins on 2 days.

M:  Lunch time 3km run in 16 mins

T: Lunch time 4km run in 20 mins

W: Penmaen Head - Did 2 F6c's and tried on-sighting some crap 7a in the fading light.

T: Rest

F: Dinbren - First session on "Ice" (F7b) - First redpoint I fell off after latching the last hard move as I didn't catch the hold right really fought my way up! Subsequent redpoints were futile as I couldn't get past the nails first moves! Felt beasted after the first redpoint for some reason...

S: LPT - Went back to finish off "Face Race" (F7a+) - Did it first go placing the clips with no warm up, felt pretty easy (which was nice) but got some flash pump near the top! One of the best routes I've ever done! Also dogged up La Boheme (F7b) felt very tricky one to come back for!

S: Feet-on Fingerboarding - 7 x (2mins on 2mins rest) - Psyched with this result as this has improved massively over the last few months!

[Duma]

Think I missed a week due to general grump. Anyway am mainly just waiting to hear habrich's tale of triumph...

STG - fix finger
MTG - keep niggles in check, run regularly, get out more. If I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M - Redpoint for gentle plastic routes session, went ok, no falls and a few 7a+'s
T -
W -
T - TCA for first proper session in a month, unsurprisingly was shite.
F - finger def worse after previous days exertions. balls.
S -
S -
 
69kg.

M -
T -
W -
T -
F -
S - drive to gower for routes - covered in clag. local guru semi saved day by taking us to new bouldering cave - was also pretty wet but bit of effort with towels and sponges rendered at least one problem doable - Tom did the deed, sadly I couldn't follow suit despite climbing through the crux move three times. Prob not good for finger but just wanted to touch some rock tbh.
S -
 
69kg.

[JackAus]

Not too much done this week. Went to the comp in Canberra. Watched Kassay just absolutely crush.

Upgraded to STG: V7
New STG: DWS development.

M: Local training crag.
T:
W: Different training crag.
T:
F: 3 hr hike.
S: Long day. Couple hours drive to Canberra for comp. Everything felt really hard... Hadn't climbed indoors in 6 months. Didn't do great.
S: Headed to some granite near Canberra. Only got to check out one spot and climb a few things before it started raining. Dammit. That was the whole point of the weekend. Few hours drive home.

[krymson]

Experimenting with "High/Low training"  - focusing on the "High" and "Low" end; AnPower and AeroCap, while eliminating aerobic power and doing very little anaerobic Capacity

In other words, no more dreaded 4x4s and also no more Feet on Fingerboarding(sorry luke!). Just hard bouldering and slightly pumpy ARC on the other days

Monday Long Dong(our awesomely named local crag) warmed up on 6a+(onsight), proceeded to onsight a 6a, and a 6b.  Didn't get to climb much else but had a great time with friends.
Climbing vertical balancy stuff outside really worked core, was good for technique and balance, also good mentally!
Tuesday Weights - pullups(2x50lbs!  ), antagonists, eccentrics, squats
Wednesday Morning ARC session(20min)  evening hard bouldering
Thursday ARC(20 min)
Friday  Rest
Saturday Steep Lead Wall. Close to sending a parictular 7a+. Significant progress on a 7b+ and 7c but still far from the send on these.
Sunday Bouldering gym - Focused on sending problems. Both a physical and mental issue for me. Went well!

So far the "high/low" approach seems super effective and is much more fun than power endurance training. Holds at the lead wall felt bigger! Resting was much improved as well.

[the_dom]

Monday: 5am start to fly up to Johannesburg meant that after doing my knee exercises in the evening I was too tired and unpsyched for the stationary bike.

Tuesday: Johannesburg training session at the wall at the local university. Didn't feel too bad, and finished off with some F3, B3 and crimp repeaters on their 'improvised' finger board.

Wednesday: leg exercises and 30 mins on the stationary bike. I hate the stationary bike.

Thursday: fly home from Johannesburg in the afternoon. Plane delayed. Get home at 8pm and fit in a surprisingly good fingerboard session:
- 9 x 1 arm locks on each arm (left arm getting better)
- F3 half crimp repeaters
- F2 repeaters
- M2 repeaters
- 35deg sloper repeaters

Friday: leg exercises and 30 mins on the stationary bike. I hate the stationary bike.

Saturday: first surf in two years. Was lots of fun and I can still surf. Even stuck a few turns. Paddling fitness is dire. DIRE. Followed up with a short hangboard session before eating steak.

Sunday: second surf in two years. Surfed much better but paddling fitness is unsurprisingly woeful. Followed up with a short boulder at the local boulder nearest my house. Repeated a "7B+" (har har) and did a "7C" (har har har har). They were probably both worth 7B at most, if that. Did all the moves on a very Font-like new project at approx. 7C+ (real 7C+), which made me happy, but I'm not likely to do it any time soon because its quite hard - 7A+ish first move to some tensiony footwork, to a very droppable two move 7Aish section, to a heartbreaker of a last move (a blind slap at around 7B). It'll be a lot of work to link. Summer project? Hell yes.

Good week, activity-wise. My mental state feels on the up and Being able to surf decent waves and boulder on good sandstone within 20 mins drive and on the same day is freaking awesome. Cape Town is a spectacular place to live at this time of the year.

Off work today and tomorrow, so going for a quick sport climb then might try to fit in a quick surf before dark. Did I mention that Cape Town is an awesome place to live?

Long post. Sorry. Has been a good week.

[Ti_pin_man]

STG: Indoor 7a by Xmas - pretty low level compared to most but this is my 'beginner' aim 

M - Core 101 session AM / Climb hard PM @ WS (3 hours.  1st hour volume of easy, 2nd hour harder stuff and then fade to warm down)
T - Core 101
W - Fingerboard - beastmaker app at 5A but skip 2 finger holds as pully tendor
T - Climb Hard (see Monday) at Craggy2
F - Rest and travel to Newcastle
S - Hard Climb at Climb Newcastle - did some 6b and think it was a 6c but grades sandbagged a little
S - technique climb for hour or two

Feel quite good, gains small but sending a lot of more stuff.  Remainder of this month I continue to focus on consitently sending V3/6a+... next month V4/6b's.

 

[AJM]

First 5.13b/ 8a. Much 

  nice one!!!

[T_B]

First 5.13b/ 8a. Much 

  nice one!!!

+ 1. Big milestone!

[T_B]

STG - Retain some strength over the next couple of months of not being able to put my left foot down at all! Need to get a fingerboard up at home ASAP. Not get fat.
MTG - One armer. Front lever.

84.3Kg

M - discharged from hosp. Travel back to Sheff - thanks gme!
T -
W - fracture clinic at Northern General. Consultant said the job Andy Gray at RVI had done on my calcanium "looked brilliant" 
T -
F -
S - some crunches, leg raises and push ups.
S -

Just been finding my feet this week with the practicalities of home life. No reason why I can't do some training in the evenings if I get a fingerboard sorted out. Also keen to get a core workout put together.
 

[Luke Owens]

First 5.13b/ 8a. Much 

Top effort! 

[tomtom]

Brilliant Haibrich
Nice epicish up and down ascent too. Good stuff.

[Luke Owens]

Experimenting with "High/Low training"  - focusing on the "High" and "Low" end; AnPower and AeroCap, while eliminating aerobic power and doing very little anaerobic Capacity

In other words, no more dreaded 4x4s and also no more Feet on Fingerboarding(sorry luke!). Just hard bouldering and slightly pumpy ARC on the other days

This is interesting and is actually similar to the type of training I was going to employ over winter. During summer I by far neglect the "Low" intensity workout's which are very important for Aerocap training.

The only down side I can think of about this (I'm probably wrong) is the high intensity stuff is going to promote strength gains, the low intensity will push your anaerobic threshold up but missing out the middle intensity training would mean you were missing out the workout's that deal with being in the anaerobic zone and help the body adapt and burn lactic acid more efficiently during exercise? i.e the interval training type workouts, 4x4's and feet-on campusing.

[AJM]

This is interesting and is actually similar to the type of training I was going to employ over winter. During summer I by far neglect the "Low" intensity workout's which are very important for Aerocap training.

The only down side I can think of about this (I'm probably wrong) is the high intensity stuff is going to promote strength gains, the low intensity will push your anaerobic threshold up but missing out the middle intensity training would mean you were missing out the workout's that deal with being in the anaerobic zone and help the body adapt and burn lactic acid more efficiently during exercise? i.e the interval training type workouts, 4x4's and feet-on campusing.

It sounds quite a lot like the base phase of a periodised training plan. Which presumably means at some point it will switch into more classic power endurance training when you actually need to get ready to peak?

[rich d]

starting back with power club
Medium term goal font7a weight to 80kg
 
mon fingerboard and leg raises
tues v light fingerboard session
wed nothing
Thursday nothing work
Friday v light fingerboard and pull ups
Saturday AM Notts Depot for a boulder - met Mike Cheque in between him hurting himself on the circuit board - stuck to bouldering myself flashed all but 1 of the blues, then failed on every red I tried - punter. Tried to climb more dynamically - realised I need a better core to do this.
Sunday Hangover and lack of sleep

Weight fluctuated between 86 and 89kg was 91 a few weeks ago.
Aims for this week
Monday fingerboard
Tues core as working late in London
wed Glasgow tca
Thurs rest travelling back from Glasgow short core session
Friday get pissed/rest
Sat Core and Fingerboard
Sun Depot notts 5 red problems

[tomtom]

2013 totals:
Outdoor: 87
Indoor: 5
Training: 6
New Grade 7's 20

Theres some good collective psyche happening on the thread this week - which is great. I'll try not to drag it down too much

M: Back from being away for a week. Weather rubbish - psyche low.
T: As above
W: Had to go into work in Hull to sign some things, have a meeting and go to a farewell do. I dragged my lazy ass to the Logport wall on the way over and had a (surprisingly) fun 90 min or so feeling not as bad as I thought I would...
Th: nothing
Fri: OK. Lets try and get some motivation back. Weather had been cold all week, so I thought it would be a good time to re-open some accounts from last winter. So off to BBG West - sketchy but decent warm ups on the easyish wall left of the nose (by sketchy but decent I mean that I was moving like a walrus on oiled ice, but managed to make everything stick and didnt fall off...). I ended up spending about 40 min on West Side Story (project) and got about as far as I had previously.. which was decent considering I'd not been on it for a while. A summer of crimpy lime/sandstone face climbing had helped, as my body position and balance was much better than previously - but a lack of climbing miles in the last couple of weeks showed up and I flagged badly after 30 min or so of on-off trying. It was also warm - and midgy - as hell. Grit season my arse.. In between attempts instead of lazing like a recalcitrant roman emperor on my bouldering mats (as I always imagine myself of course) I had to stand on the top of the scarp - trying to catch as much midge repelling wind as possible. Eventually I tired of scratching the little blighters out of my curly barnet and went home in a humph (that and scraping a sheet of skin off my LH knuckles when that bastard mono crimp edge greased me off etc..
Sa: Piss up in Wolves.
Su: 60 mph trip up the M6 back from Wolves, trying not to be sick. Afternoon of TV.

Its funny - I should be fired up for the winter and getting motivated, but I feel completely between two seasons at the moment. Summer targets have passed (nearly out of condition) and winter targets are not yet in my frame of mind (or in condition)..

Off for a week in Crete so no climbing and lots of relaxing (which is good, but I'd rather be doing the former!)..

So winter targets... well, WSS... I should probably go and look at Jess' roof again (I get fed up of lugging mats up there though), Brad Pit..(?) hmm.. Lanky 7B+/7C's required that re not death prospects and suit lazy (not too far from the car) climber..

[cheque]

RRG training continues- Thursday marked a week before I fly. Changing the focus now from a kind of ancap/ aerocap mix to just working hard routes and problems and trying to 'taper' a bit. Hopefully this will make me feel confident and rested but thirsting for the intensely tiring sessions I've become used to.

M- Rest.
T- Notts Depot. 40 minutes areocap on "6b+" circuit then straight into "7a" circuit. Completed the latter then did another easy lap- 45 minutes continuous climbing.  Did 4x4s on steep V3s after then worked trough new comp problems up to V4/5.
W- Rest.
T- Car troubles meant Notts Wall was the only option. Worked the hardest route on the autobelay (15-hand move on overhanging crimps and edges, feels about 7a/+) all session- must have had 20 burns getting two moves from the top 4 or 5 times.
F- Rest. Sore!
S- AM-Notts Depot. Met rich d The circuit board has been reset and rather than being softly graded as before is now somewhat in the other direction! Did easiest ones then spent a while (spent being the operative word!) working the "6b+" and "7a" circuits, which both feel in the region of the latter to me and have some cool moves on them. Did all the V4 and below problems on the comp wall to show off to unimpressed girlfriend after.
PM-Short walk on Notts Uni campus with a few trainer-clad problems on Terrace Wall (Nottingham's equivalent of Broomgrove/ Henry Price walls) thrown in.
S- Walk along preposterously hot, sunny and crowded Bamford Edge with soloing up to Severe thrown in.

Didn't get to lead anything this week but definitely worked out hard. Felt great to be working hard moves after focusing on endurance for weeks and to have the fitness to keep at it.

[csl]

Need to get some semblance of a routine again, havent posted since a trip to Wales in July. Since then I have done very little climbing.
Still somehow managed to climb a couple of E3's last time i was out properly.

Last week -

Couple of sessions at KK - noticeably weak. Managed a softish 7a in the second session. Nothing above 6c in the first.
Weekend in Peak, taking out novices on saturday, so climbing up to HS. Then sunday couldn't find a partner so some hungover soloing up to VS at Stanage.

Goals.

Plan for winter is just to get much stronger - current max boulder grade of 7a is starting to hold me back when trying harder routes i think.

2 Wall sessions per week
2 Fingerboard sessions per week
Outside at least twice a month.

[krymson]

This is interesting and is actually similar to the type of training I was going to employ over winter. During summer I by far neglect the "Low" intensity workout's which are very important for Aerocap training.

The only down side I can think of about this (I'm probably wrong) is the high intensity stuff is going to promote strength gains, the low intensity will push your anaerobic threshold up but missing out the middle intensity training would mean you were missing out the workout's that deal with being in the anaerobic zone and help the body adapt and burn lactic acid more efficiently during exercise? i.e the interval training type workouts, 4x4's and feet-on campusing.

It sounds quite a lot like the base phase of a periodised training plan. Which presumably means at some point it will switch into more classic power endurance training when you actually need to get ready to peak?

Hey guys thanks for noticing.

The reasoning behind this is really interesting and seems pretty logical which is why I'm giving it a go.

1. High-end(power/strength) is long term gains. You also get some PE from holds becoming "better"

2. Middle/Power endurance training is by definition HARD and stresses the body, and thus takes a while to recover from.

3. Middle (power endurance) builds fast, but also disappears fast. Like AJM pointed out it if you have a trip coming up you could build it up right before, but it doesn't seem to have much lasting effects from what I've read and also my own experience.

4. ARC training doesn't train PE directly but it can raise the anaerobic threshold - giving you PE from the other end. ARC improves capillarization in the forearms - I'm not sure this is as lasting as strengh gains but in my experience it is a bit more long-term than gains from PE training. Also, ARC is very low intensity there is also little to no recovery time(opportunity cost)

As a boulderer who dabbles in sport this is perfect for me - so far I have gotten very good route performance without sacrificing my bouldering performance at all.

[iain]

Good effort Habrich! The redpoint seemed to come together really quickly.


STG: Infinite Gravity
Get down to 62kg, 62.4 this morning, still heading in the right direction.

Mon:

Tues: Works bouldering with a go on the circuit at the end with 2 continuous laps on the 7b.

Wed: Rest

Thurs: Works bouldering. An ok session

Fri: Rest

Sat: Morning session at Raven Tor. Back on Weedkiller after the end of session play last weekend and the link felt doable. Took time warming up and refining beta, couldn't find a way to eliminate the swing for feet leaving the starting hold but tried a strong man's campus beta for the crux which worked well. First rp got to the crux and realised that the strong man's method was too strong after using energy getting there 
2nd rp went ok with a little hesitation popping for the final hold, although got given some beta afterwards that could make it more controlled. Had intended to get on other problems but ran out of time.

Sun: 9 mile walk around Edale moor seeing Kinder downfall and some of the tors. Made it much harder than it needed to be with poor navigation. If you don't take the right path getting into and out of all the water courses gets tiring and tedious very quickly. Legs knackered today.

Still nursing the tweaked finger but it's improving and managed to not do anything daft to it this week.

[Sasquatch]

Well done Habrich!!!!  First 8a is a HUGE milestone

STG - 8A+ Local Project - SUCCESSFULY COMPLETED 
STG - God Module(8A) in HP 40 in Early Oct (prob have crap conditions, so may not go so well)
MTG - Plan trip and go back and finish off Mandala this winter
LTG - 8B and 8B+ local projects.  They finally feel possible...

M - rest - easy 3.5mi run
T - FB max hangs and repeaters, 5mi run
W - Rest
Th - 1 hr Yoga, 45min Aerocap/Recovery
F - Archangel session on the project. Short warm up, then on to the project.  First couple of goes were continuing the warm-up.  Then managed to stick the crux throw from the start, and link to the last hard move.  When I got there, I was shocked at my complete inability to move at all. I had done this move many times and could do it both statically, and dynamically if needed.  It was a walk by itself, and I couldn't understand how I could be so absolutely powered out after 6-7 moves.  Kept trying and while I wasn't executing quite perfectly, I managed to get to the same high point 5 more times. After a few hours, I was spent.  My partner and I packed our bags, and before pakcing the pads I decided to have "one last go" just to build more muscle memory.  The first three moves were smoother than they had been all day, and I stuck the first crux and worked through to the last hard move.  Some instinct took over then and I mish-mashed two different betas I had discarded previously involving a kneebar/kneescum and a bump to a horrific intermediate.  Somehow the combo worked though and I found myself on the last sloper.  I took a deep breath and made the last hop to the lip and stuck it quickly manteled over and let out a primal yell....  2nd 8A+, and this one is solid or hard for the grade....  So excited to get it done, doubly so after the weekends weather.  Seasons done now as they got nearly a foot of snow.  Only sunny stuff for the next month.
S - Rest
S - gym session - went and climbed all but three of the comp routes from Sat comp that I couldn't make due to kid activities.  Felt strong and smooth.

[fried]

Monday - Rest
Tuesday - Indoors, not great, tired.
Wednesday/ Thursday - rest
Friday - Tired, indoor, rubbish. Too much work and not enough sleep.
Saturday - Catch up with old friends, drink too much.
Sunday - Beautiful weather, drag myself out of bed after a few hours sleep and head off to Rocher de la reine to try the blue circuit. I get through a few problems on momentum, but then a headache kicks in, plus my boulangerie was  inexplicably shut, so I'm lacking butter, result in me ending up on the yellow circuit and do a lot of easy stuff. Strange blue circuit, litcheny and polished at the same time, proper old skool. Not a mushroom in sight.

Space out for the afternoon.

Weight 75.3kg

[Dolly]

Well intentioned but not that productive start to the week. Then work and other stuff took over.


M Felt ill - got the bug that had been going round the family at the weekend
T Shed session. Discontinuous and I felt a bit weak. Topped it up with a bit of Beastmaking
W Too much work
T Good sess on The Wave at lunchtime. Seemed to have one of those rare strong days when it all felt loads easier than it normally does. Maybe cos I hadn't been climbing or training that much. Thursday evening down to London for a mates 50th party. Stayed up late, drank too much, had a great time.
F Hungover and work
S Weights and tennis and swimming with kids and playing on beach (does that count ?)
S As above without the tennis weights and swimming. Small bit of mountain biking.

[Luke Owens]

STG - 8A+ Local Project - SUCCESSFULY COMPLETED 

Top effort buddy! Great description of the day too!

[the_dom]

First 5.13b/ 8a.

Awesome! Good effort.

[the_dom]

STG - 8A+ Local Project - SUCCESSFULY COMPLETED 

Top effort buddy! Great description of the day too!

+1.

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Board struggling a bit at first, then repeat a problem first go that took lots of sessions to do. Did a new problem that went on the last, last go.
Wed. Turbo 15 secs on 15 secs of x3 x5 x7 x9 x11 x15 0ne min rest between each set.
Thu. Rockcity, worked and did a 6c+ that I fell off ripping holes in myself last Sunday. Did 7a on which I did a 2 handed dyno which I landed first go nearly fell off in shock. did another 6c+ before doing 5 or 6 easier things.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Board put on 2 new holds which matched up both sides of the board. Then did the problems created and the mirror images, repeated Tuesdays problem still took 4 or 5 goes. Spent rest of day lifting carpets furniture and chiselling off plaster.
Sun. Ripping out plaster board and more chiseling. Knackered.

[Sasquatch]

STG - 8A+ Local Project - SUCCESSFULY COMPLETED 

Top effort buddy! Great description of the day too!

+1.

Thanks!  There's over a foot of snow there now, so it really was last go of the season