[davej]

lucky you!! think i will order one from Germany

[Muenchener]

Mine tried to arrive (in Germany) on Monday but I wasn't at home; collected it from the post office today. I assume delivery to the UK will take another few days.

[Oldmanmatt]

Afraid we just have the one copy!
I do wish I'd ordered a few more though.
It's already looking a little Foxed...

I'm installing a screen/DVD in the training room so people can watch the exercises.

Monkey see, monkey do (sorry guys, but you know what I mean).
Got the materials in to build the peg board. By popular demand...

It's also a great resource for our NIBAS students.
So...
Not revolutionary, perhaps.
Well presented .
Clear and concise.
Order turned up from Germany ok and not too late.
So, go for it, put the order in.

[Oldmanmatt]

Oh, yeah. Owns... We'll 50% of anyway, Pollylolly has the rest!

[mctrials23]

Still nothing here and its been over a week since the first ones arrived in the country by the sounds of it. Little bit odd...

[honroid]

Afraid we just have the one copy!
I do wish I'd ordered a few more though.
It's already looking a little Foxed...

I'm installing a screen/DVD in the training room so people can watch the exercises.

Monkey see, monkey do (sorry guys, but you know what I mean).
Got the materials in to build the peg board. By popular demand...

It's also a great resource for our NIBAS students.
So...
Not revolutionary, perhaps.
Well presented .
Clear and concise.
Order turned up from Germany ok and not too late.
So, go for it, put the order in.

Agree with the above. I'd add that for me, having floor exercises and other associated (painful, laborious) core exercises presented  together in one place, with vague ideas on difficulty, usefulness and suggested reps etc. makes (you feel like) you're more likely to get some done. Already had a few good sessions on core, just changing up from my usual exercises.

Not sure about where I'd fit a peg board but fashioned some slings already.

Met Herr Korb (the bald co-writer) in Frankenjura over the summer. Passed me some useful beta on a project I was trying and proceeded to cruise it. Seemed like a nice guy.

[Dave Flanagan]

Got a copy. Looks good but it's a real pity they didn't get a native english speaker to proof it. It's quite the headwrecker.

[abarro81]

I borrowed a copy of this the other night. A nicely presented list of exercises but with a printer, pen and paper it felt like you'd get just as many useful exercises in 30min on google and climbing sites. Disappointed - was expecting more.

[jwi]

Got a copy. Looks good but it's a real pity they didn't get a native english speaker to proof it. It's quite the headwrecker.

Indeed. I feel lucky that I can refer to the german text where the english text is unintelligible.

[saltbeef]

what barrows said. interesting how a text on essentially climbing specific training comes up with about 6 or7 exercises on the campus board/rings/floor etc. somewhat surprised there is no section on periodisation apart from the briefest mention. no mention really of finger boarding. not really worth 35 euros

[mrjonathanr]

I have access to rings but not the book.Would you share what exercises it recommends?

[Dave Flanagan]

First run of 4000 copies sold in 5 weeks! How did they manage that?

[a dense loner]

I thought it was worth it just for the section with reverse push up and raise opposite foot and hand, and also for the walking the feet up and down the wall while doing push ups. It's not going to tell you to do a 6wk periodisation cycle alternating monos and slabs. What do people expect from a book? It's like someone reading kung fu five fingers of death and expecting to become a top assassin at the end of it

[Dave Flanagan]

I think it's a good book but it's pretty niche and that's a lot of sales. Compared to Self Coached climber which is a strong seller it's pretty narrow in it's scope...

[a dense loner]

Never heard of self coached climber, maybe the word "power" should have been used somewhere

[tc]

Got a copy. Looks good but it's a real pity they didn't get a native english speaker to proof it. It's quite the headwrecker.

Indeed. I feel lucky that I can refer to the german text where the english text is unintelligible.

Same old story. Take a good book and turn it into a bad book by failing to commission a professional translation and proofreading job. I despair sometimes.

[Sasquatch]

First run of 4000 copies sold in 5 weeks! How did they manage that?

I think it's a good book but it's pretty niche and that's a lot of sales. Compared to Self Coached climber which is a strong seller it's pretty narrow in it's scope...

By being the coaches for probably one of the strongest climbers in the world.  By default they have massive popular credibility. 

[Dave Flanagan]

Good point but some might question how much credit climbing coaches deserve for the achievements of their students.

TC - Some of it won't even get through spellcheck. The 11th word in the intro is effeciently.

[Sasquatch]

Good point but some might question how much credit climbing coaches deserve for the achievements of their students.

TC - Some of it won't even get through spellcheck. The 11th word in the intro is effeciently.

I fully agree, Hence the term "popular credibility".

[Oldmanmatt]

It's format is great for use at a wall or climbing gym.

It's proved immensely popular and the accompanying DVD has had a lot of traffic.

Frankly, most people don't get beyond the pictures and no-one seems to have picked up on the text errors (not sure many of our climbers would notice/be able to notice anyway...).

Must look up "The Self Coached Climber" though. Anyone know the publisher?

[krymson]

Stackpole books!

Conservative bunch.
Tried to get the paper edition(it has the dvd) delivered overseas and they wouldn't budge

[Muenchener]

Good point but some might question how much credit climbing coaches deserve for the achievements of their students.

And in an timely blog post, Will Gadd answers their question

Are the world’s best athletes kicking ass with the programming/diet/whatever at their sports/life/whatever? Does the person talking or writing to you actually do ANYTHING at a high level, or has he/she coached anyone who has been successful at a high level (and not a local amateur comp or something, the big leagues of whatever sport it is)? Does the “authority/guru” do a lot of whatever it is he or she says to do, with passion, commitment and integrity? If the answer to these questions is, “yes,” then likely the ideas are sort of maybe possibly valid, and maybe not totally full of hype.

Herr Matros seems to meet Will's criteria

[ghisino]

Good point but some might question how much credit climbing coaches deserve for the achievements of their students.

i'd ask slighly different question.

are successful coaching of very talented athletes and of low/medium talented ones the same thing?
Is it possible that some coaching philosophies, styles and practices fit one end of the spectrum very well but not the rest of it?

[Muenchener]

I'm going to a lecture on training by Patrick Matros - Gimme Kraft co-author, coach of Alex Megos, Frankenjura 8b "greenpointer" etc - tomorrow evening. Looking forward to it. Will post on here if he says anything more interesting than what is in the rather disappointing book.