UKBouldering.com

Power Club week 187 Mon 9 Sep - Sun 15 Sep 2013 (Read 11235 times)

fried

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1892
  • Karma: +60/-3
Yeah, ankle injuries suck, have a speedy recovery.

Monday - rest.
Tuesday - Indoor, elbows a bit tweaky, as are the shoulders, current cool temperatures are playing havoc with my ageing bones.
Wednesday - Nothing, wanted to start some BM sessions but feel a bit nigglely.
Thursday - Friday - Same as.
Saturday - Rain, relatives pffff.
Sunday - Should be in the forest but September is a bad month for me, I don't work in August, so I don't get paid in September. Can't really justify filling the car up. Enough of my finances. Indoor, good session. I've moved in a year from working blue 5C/ 6Aish stuff and not really being able to touch the next level (red) to being able to get most blues first or second go and at least get a good work out on the reds, if not actually top them out. I like to thing this is improvement, but since it's the time when my wall's first batch of annual subscriptions come up for renewal I'm getting suspicious...

Lots of work, lots of free meals put on a kilo - 75.9kg

Sasquatch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1984
  • Karma: +153/-1
  • www.akclimber.com
    • AkClimber
Decide to head back to Back Bowden to try County Ethics. After a few goes get sidepull 3 times and fall off not committing enough to big slap up left. Next go get it and rock right into pocket onto less steep ground. Good hold for right in slightly sandy break. 20 feet up 2 mats. Reach top and it's really sandy. Shit why hadn't I thought to check the top? Looks so pedestrian on the vids, just been focussed on doing crux. Try and smear up with left hand on marginal sandy flattie. Foot pops and I'm in the air.  Out from pads I hit the ground hard and immediately know I've broken bones in left foot/ankle.  Get  trainers on whilst adrenaline  still surging, tell rach to get stuff together and start crawling. Back at car within 30 mins then get a load of ice from cottage and drive to Newcastle.
:o  Good luck on the recovery.  Check Shauna's blog for some tips, I bet she'd even respond to email....

Things are looking really positive on the Oak with progress on both sessions. I'm stronger on the throw then I have ever been. Will still do links from the second bolt as it is important to keep climbing through the throw move and once that link is done will redpoint from the ground. Need to stay light / get lighter and for the route to stay dry...
Very nice - Good luck with it!

STG - 8A+ Local Project
MTG - God Module(8A) in HP 40 in Early Oct (prob have crap conditions, so may not go so well)
MTG2 - Go back and finish off Mandala
LTG - 8B and 8B+ local projects.  They finally feel possible......

M - Ancap session, followed by extensive hard bouldering on home wall.  Oddly psyched on the home wall projects. Run 3mi and x-fit workout
T - Yoga
W - 5mi run
Th - FB repeaters, 3mi run
F - Rest
S - Archangel session. Finally good weather.  Warmed up on a few 7A problems, then OS a new 7B, then onto the STG project.  First good full session on it and have it now in two sections.  10 moves to the lip, and every one is HARD and definitely able to fall on....  Finish out day on another new project.  Cleaned it all, and worked it, but too tired.  Likely in the 7C+ range....
S -  Back up to the STG project.  Actually too hot and sunny.  Reworked and dialed in subtleties of the two crux moves.  then done for day. 

REALLY psyched on the project session.  If I can get 1-2 more good days, I think it'll go.  My whole body feels worked today in a way I haven't felt in a long time.....

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
Tom your story made me wince. Almost a carbon copy of what I did in Font last June. Similar height, foot pops off sandy smear (after rain), in the air, missed two pads (only one spotter) crunch. Also my first ever broken bone.

I was told in France that I'd broken the calcanium in three places. It had actually completely shattered. Into bits.

Good that they were able to operate so quickly though. Mine was an open fracture and I mashed up the soft tissue so badly that (combined with the journey back) it took over a week in the Northern General for the swelling to go down enough to go under the knife.

As mentioned above, the major problem once you get the cast off is the achilles as it'll shrink loads. The lower limb clinic at the Hallamshire is excellent though and if you have the motivation to work through the pain and do all the exercises they give you you'll make massive gains quickly.

In the long run you'll be fine. Although mine still hurts and the idea of walking barefoot on pebbles or uneven rocky ground sends shivers down my spine, it could be a lot worse.

I can get my foot in a climbing shoe and I can jump off from the top of the wall at The Works with no pain neither of which I ever thought would be possible a year ago.

Best of luck.

tommytwotone

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Southern jessie turned Almscliff devotee
  • Posts: 3633
  • Karma: +199/-3
STG: Offwidthing
LTG: Font 7b

M: Gym on lunch - kettlebells, core, pullups and pushups pyramid
T: Gym on lunch - did a "Primal Fitness" class, effectively circuits of high-intensity exercises, 20 sec on, 10 secs off...totally knackered by the end of it!
W: Nowt
T: Leeds Wall eve, bouldering warmup then campussing power indurance, repeaters, max hangs and core
F: Nowt
S: Almscliff in the afternoon, pottered around for a bit on normal circuit then moved up to work traverse across Si's Arete...needless to say the power endurance training hasn't kicked in!
S: Nowt

Better week overall for training, trying to get to the gym a few times in the week to keep general fitness topped up. Not really feeling any benefit from the campussing yet, going to stick at it and see what happens.




Eddies

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1245
  • Karma: +52/-6
Monday: DWS in Majorca
Tuesday: DWS in Majorca
Wednesday: Away in Wasdale
Thursday: Away in Wasdale
Friday: Away in Wasdale
Saturday: Away in Wasdale
Sunday: Away in Wasdale


Majorca was incredible, I climbed some of the best rock Ive ever climbed.
Bisexual at Cala Barques and Afroman at Diablo being the highlights for me.

Wasdale involved a few big yomps in the fells and a few days chilling, which was much needed.

Summer for me is over, from now on its all about winter training.
I wont be posting in Power Club until next summer as my training plan for the next 14 weeks is written and will be stuck to religiously as in previous years.


PHASE   Base   Peak   Rest   Base   Peak   TOTAL
WEEKS   2   4   1   3   4   14 weeks

DAY   PEAK                                         BASE             REST
MON   F-Board Max Hangs (CWP)   F-Board Repeaters              Rest
TUE   System Board+Weights   4X4’s+Weights               Core
WED   Core                                       Core                             Rest
THUR   Projects – 45&Barrel   Projects – Links                  Core

webbo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5028
  • Karma: +141/-13
Mon. Back to work after hols knackered, so nothing.
Tue. Board did a couple of things I couldn't do on sunday on the new holds and repated sundays problem first go.
Wed. Board mirror session new version. Ran out of power at the end and had too do a couple easier problems.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Board 15 problems to warm up, the 6 problems then did then all again four times.
Sat. Bike 3hrs 35 mins hilly ride felt quite hard in the wind.
Sun. Rockcity first time in a while some good problems although quite jaded from yesterday. Did problems up to 6c+.
 However in the spirit of T.B. managed to slip of of couple of things taking the skin of my shins and the inside of my left bicep as well as bruising my chest.

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3078
  • Karma: +149/-5
Thanks for all the best wishes on this thread - much appreciated!

Jasper - yes, mine was in 3 bits too. I'm really thankful I didn't have to hang around and wait for any swelling to go down. I basically fell straight down onto it, so hopefully not too much damage to tendons/ligaments/soft tissue. This, plus it being packed in ice within 40 minutes of doing it meant I was lucky enough to have it operated on within 24hrs.

Went to the fracture clinic at the Northern General yesterday and the Consultant said my post-op x-rays "looked excellent". The surgeon in Newcastle has restored the shape/depth of the heel really well, but there is still damage in the joint as expected. Could be loads worse.

Won't try and do any 'activity' in the next couple of weeks as need to keep my foot elevated and heal!

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20282
  • Karma: +641/-11
2013 totals:
Outdoor: 86
Indoor: 4
Training: 6
New Grade 7's 20

Mostly (totally!) Honeymoon..

M: Recovery from wedding. Woke up in Askrigg (hot tub 1) and moved on to Swanky hotel nr Windermere :) (hot tub 2) MrsTT had a massage for an hour or two so I snuck away to that wee crag on the hill overlooking Windermere - puntered around for an hour or so..



T: Slept. Ate late breakfast..  Our PlosOne article press release made an impact (article embargo'd until thurs) - had to sneak away from MrsTT for an hour or so (to above mentioned bouldering spot) to speak to US based journalists*. Pulled on for 10 min or so.. 7 Course taster menu in the evening... Beetroot and Horseradish Ice cream on smoked salmon a highlight.. The lamb course nearly destroyed us :)

W: Left the luxury hotel, and moved on to MrsT's Auntys house in N.Lakes... first rain - but it didnt matter as we were moving etc...

Th: MrsTT had to start college in Manchester (on our honeymoon eh!) so I deposited her at Penrith Station - and being the dutiful new husband had a fry up and went to Carrock ;) Good connies - but I was only equipped with my small Snap Calzone mat (I had to negotiate hard to get that in the car - as the motor was full of presents, clothes, general post wedding shizzle..) so didnt feel too well equipped to try things! Pissed about on the Mushroom boulder, and did the easy ones on the Boardman boulder (the Arete gave me some heart fluttering moments as my mat disappeared to postage stamp size) and spent some time trying hard to pull on the 7's on that face before I lost skin/fingers/will to carry on.. The gabbro there is fantastic, but rough for my wimpy sandstone skinned fingers.. Weather was unusually good, so after some lunch wandered up one of the Dodds and down Dowthwaite



Fri: Long walk up to HIghstreet with MrsTT... 5 hour Lamb stew in the evening..

Sa: pottering

Su: Back home/life/reality etc...

So managed to sneak out twice \o/ but the wedding left me drained for the whole week and bouldering has felt like going through the motions... Time to start thinking about my winter projects when the weather cools...

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4008
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
Pissed about on the Mushroom boulder, and did the easy ones on the Boardman boulder (the Arete gave me some heart fluttering moments as my mat disappeared to postage stamp size) and spent some time trying hard to pull on the 7's on that face before I lost skin/fingers/will to carry on..

Did all that too on my summer hols, can assure you that even with an Ocun pad topping out the arete was a tad nervy, had all sorts of visions of hitting the protruding shelf thing, inverting, missing the pad etc. Thankfully the move's actually not problematic once you do it.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal