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Power Club week 187 Mon 9 Sep - Sun 15 Sep 2013 (Read 11237 times)

T_B

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Power Club week 187 Mon 9 Sep - Sun 15 Sep 2013
September 15, 2013, 08:30:23 am
M - Kyloe In, just me and Rach (parents in law looking after kids for morning). Did some warm ups then Yorkshireman sitter, Hidden Dragon and playing rudies. Thrashed myself trying sit to HD but a bit too tired.
T - Holy Island
W - Alnwick Castle including broomstick training
T - Out for morning with Rach again.  Keen to try The Crack at Bowden.  Can't fathom the flick into the undercut plus it's in the sun so sack it. Flash Sprung (given 7c but more like 7b). Decide to head back to Back Bowden to try County Ethics. After a few goes get sidepull 3 times and fall off not committing enough to big slap up left. Next go get it and rock right into pocket onto less steep ground. Good hold for right in slightly sandy break. 20 feet up 2 mats. Reach top and it's really sandy. Shit why hadn't I thought to check the top? Looks so pedestrian on the vids, just been focussed on doing crux. Try and smear up with left hand on marginal sandy flattie. Foot pops and I'm in the air.  Out from pads I hit the ground hard and immediately know I've broken bones in left foot/ankle.  Get  trainers on whilst adrenaline  still surging, tell rach to get stuff together and start crawling. Back at car within 30 mins then get a load of ice from cottage and drive to Newcastle.
F - calcanium broken, have it operated on - plate and screws job. Could easily have been a lot worse.
S -
S -

First accident in 25 years of climbing.  Made a stupid mistake not thinking to check the top out despite rain the previous day and stuff up here just not getting that much traffic. Pushing it anyway with 2 pads and just wife spotting. Now 8 weeks non weight bearing.

nai

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Shit. Unlucky.

AJM

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Shit. Unlucky.

+1 to that - bad luck...

Teaboy

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Sorry to hear that Tom, hope the rehabilitation goes as well as it can do

Dolly

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Sorry to hear that T_B
Good luck with the recovery

T_B

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Thanks, if anyone's got any tips or links to sites for exercises to help reduce muscle wastage, that'd be great. My lower leg is going to be in full plaster for 8 wks so guess it will be quite limited what I can do? I'll just carry on as before on other stuff I.e. mainly finger/campus boarding and circuits (but with one foot).

krymson

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nai

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goals: 8a & E4

M rest
T - 6x4, 2 minutes on, 5 off followed by 4x 2mins on, 4 off Foot on Campussing
W - Gorilla Warfare bloc, a bit greasy but did both GW & ED to the last move (opting not top-out just-in-case)
T - 2:40 on, 8:00 off - slightly tweaked crux section to make it more sustained, 3 sets complete, set 4 with a fall, set 5 complete fail at crux.
F - 8.4km run, 20 minutes core - planks & squat thrusts with feet in slings 
S - rest (A big ouch from the stomach muscles)
S - short garage bouldering session, took a while to get going but felt strong eventually, kept it short with three endurance sessions planned for next week

Last week of training then the nipper starts school full time and I'll be going climbing :bounce:

Fiend

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Bad luck T_B, but it's an honourable injury at least - you get the E7 ground up fall tick for missing the pads!

Just keep active, do your physio when it's time, be patient, and I'm sure you'll recover fine.

Dolly

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M Pilates
T Cycled to work. Wave at lunchtime. Nearly flash 2 level 3s which is exciting for me then batter myself on loads of good problems I cant do
W Wave again but I hadnt eaten and felt tired and weak and rubbish. Core workout at the gym in the evening
T Rode to work
F Wave a lunchtime. Piss the problems I couldnt do on Tuesday. All about rest and not being Mr Throwy on
S Grindleford  Goat. Just the Nanny route which was great.
lots of roads I hadnt been on before, lots of climbing followed by lots of food. Party in the evening so  :beer2:
S nothing


Quite a good week really. Didnt drink much and low carbed it so lost weight. Put some slopers on the board in anticipation of the return of real climbing.


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Thanks, if anyone's got any tips or links to sites for exercises to help reduce muscle wastage, that'd be great. My lower leg is going to be in full plaster for 8 wks so guess it will be quite limited what I can do? I'll just carry on as before on other stuff I.e. mainly finger/campus boarding and circuits (but with one foot).

Shit man, that sucks big time. Hope the recovery goes ok.
Not only muscle wastage but you achilles will tighten significantly. I fractured my left calcaneum last year (luckily didn't need surgery!), with 4 weeks in a CAM boot. My left achilles is still tighter than my right. Best thing for it is to stand with toes on the edge of a step and slowly lower into it and stay there for a while. Or do what my Dad did (disintegrated his heel in an accident 2 years ago) and build a small ramp to do the job where you want. I got it from him and still use it regularly.
I don't notice a significant difference in muscle size now but squats definitely helped at the time.

JackAus

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STG: State comp coming up this weekend, just don't do shit...
MTG: V7 (should be a STG...)

82kg

Mon: Local crag that I hadn't been to before (Cheesedale). Majority of the bouldering is V9 and above. Worked on a V6 and a V7. Very close to the V6 and a couple moves off the V7. Very sticky day though, really humid and about 27 degrees...
Tues: Standard rest day 100 push ups and 200 sit ups.
Wed: Found new small river based DWS crag. Eyed up a few lines to do. Will be back on a warm day. Back to Cheesedale. Much cooler day but everything felt harder... Did a couple of V4 lines that hadn't been recorded. Worked on the V6 with no more progress.
Thurs: Standard rest day 100 push ups and 200 sit ups.
Fri: AM: Standard 3 hr hike, managed it in 2hr 40. Really should measure it...
      PM: Soloing for a couple hours at local trad crag (Point Perp). Good little circuit of about 10 routes (up to about 10m) up to about HVS.
Sat: Watch AFL. My team is now out of the finals. :(
Sun: Aim was to try some new DWS at Point Perp. Too cold + seas too rough + too high + wet rock = too scared... Ended up doing usual soloing circuit.

Muenchener

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Shit. Unlucky.
+1 to that - bad luck...
+2
+3

I did a route called "L'Explosion du Calcaneum" in Ailefroide. It was really good. Had no idea what the name meant.

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STG (2013): Frankenjura VII onsight
MTG (Spring 2014) 7a redpoint
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

Should have been a rest week

M: Drive Calais -> München
T: Knee Physio: first session of a new round of treatment.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Motivation & energy v. low, more a social than a training session. Lacklustre bouldering for 40 minutes or so then routes: 6a 5c 6b 7a (on toprope to try out the moves: hard) 6c (project)
The count of converts who have said they are so impressed by the wonders of Welsh trad they definitely want to go again is now up to two. yyfy
T:
F: Knee Physio.
S: Wall, Boulder welt. Better. A dozen problems up to 6Aish to warm up, then endurance circuits. 50-move 6b+ circuit in two overlapping 30 move sections, then three rounds of antisocial multiple laps to finish off. Skin hurts from all the plastic jugs.
S: Mobility, knee physio & stabilizer exercises

the_dom

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STG: Be able to climb again - sort out motivation/knee/hamstring/elbow issues. 1-4-7 on both arms again. <87kg. Sort out my diet (less junk/beer).

MTG: In good climbing shape for Font in April 2014. Lower body properly rehab'd. <85kg. Be able / allowed to run again. Consistent good diet.

LTG: 8A again. Consistently <85kg.

Monday: 40 mins on the stationary bike and leg rehab exercises. I hate the stationary bike.

Tuesday: Beastmaker session.
6 One arm hangs on each arm, followed by two sets of:
- Front 3 half crimped (small rung)
- All 4 half crimps (small rung)
- 35 deg sloper
- Back 3 (2cm rung)
Then spent an hour being abused by my biokineticist.

Wednesday: First climb in a month! First climb in a month! Spent 90 mins at a local boulder, logging my first time in a pair of climbing shoes since 11 August. Managed to do a soft (ok, very soft) 7B+ and repeat a hard 7A+/7B without the use of the heel that other ascenders have resorted to. I felt strong enough to toe down and jump. Pretty happy with that. WWMD. Followed up with 30 mins on the stationary bike. I hate the stationary bike.

Thursday: An hour of hell with the biokineticist. Spent 10 minutes of the session running and noticed almost immediate, near painful tightening of my hamstrings. I hate being old an creaky.

Friday: 30 mins on the stationary bike in the morning. 30 more mins in the evening. I hate the stationary bike. I hate the stationary bike. I hate the stationary bike.

Saturday: Biblical, biblical rain. Campus board and leg rehab. Not a great session and skin is chewed up by the end. Huge dinner. Huger fight with girlfriend.

Sunday: Hangover. More biblical rain. More fight with girlfriend. Hangboard - 2 sets of:
- Front 3 half crimped (small rung)
- All 4 half crimps (small rung)
- Front 2 (med pocket)
- Back 2 (med pocket)
- 35 deg sloper
Skin is stuffed and in an exceedingly crappy mood.

All in all, quite a solid week of training, but really let down by poor diet and too much beer.

Luke Owens

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M: Rest

T: Devil's Gorge - Bolt-to-Bolt on Broccoli and Ice Cream (F7b) - Mega steep nemesis route! Got pumped just going bolt-to-bolt. Managed bottom crux OK. Felt boxed after getting to the top...

Pulled the rope and had a redpoint, couldn't even manage the first crux on the 2nd bolt, still feels nails. Pulled past this and did a bit of a link to near the top. Got a better sequence for the top crux and climbed to the chains which feels sketchy clipping off a sloping ledge. Endurance needed...

W: Rest

T: Had a call reporting the Gorge was wet so drove to Dinbren, then it poured down so drove to Ruthin Escarpment, still raining we walked (20 mins) to the crag, as thought it was soaking and so were we... Went to Oswestry Wall. did start climbing until 7pm despite finishing work at 4:15... Did a load of V4 - V5's, felt stressed.

F: Rest - Watched Doylo's new film and got psyched!

S: LPT - Warmed up repeating Under the Boardwalk (F6c) got really warm! Went all out on an onsight attempt of Face Race (F7a+) climbed really well but committed to an incorrect sequence right at the top and just couldn't reverse, so close! The closest I've been to on-sighting something this hard. Got the move wired and came down for a rest.

1st Redpoint, fell after the crux as I underestimated the moves after... School boy error.

2nd & 3rd Redpoint fell on the crux - knackered!

What a great route, one of the best i've ever been on, LPT has become my favorite crag! I really dug deep on the on-sight and felt like I never really recovered from it, slack redpointing skills cost me the tick on the redpoint. Next time! I shouldn't be getting pumped on technical non-steep climbs like this either!

Core:
30 L Leg Crunches
15 Side Raises (Both sides)
30 Back Arches
15 Pressups
30 Straight Leg Situps
1 Min Side Star (Both Sides)
1 Min Dish
30 Back Arches
20 Aqua Mans
1 Min Dish

S: Rest

----------------------------------------

I've spent the whole year getting pumped on everything and never really finding moves very difficult on there own on any routes I've tried. I just haven't had the fitness and too many times it's been make or break and I've failed by the skin of my teeth (Usually falling AFTER the crux on things.) I'm going to hammer the endurance training for the foreseeable...
« Last Edit: September 16, 2013, 11:06:19 am by Luke Owens »


tomtom

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Shit. Unlucky.
+1 to that - bad luck...
+2
+3
+4 Sorry to hear that buddy!

+5

Really sorry to hear that :(
Its exactly the type of fall I worry about - and sometimes get into those do I go up? or go back down moments... Glad you had someone with you - and I hope it heals fast and well.

iain

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Another +, that's gutting T_B, hope you heal fast.


STG: Infinite Gravity before Sept>mid-October or the weather crapping out, whichever is first.
Get down to 62kg, 62.6 this morning so still heading in the right direction.

Mon: Works circuits. Tried 2 sets of 3 laps, 2.5min climbing per lap, 1.5min between laps. Surprised myself by completing the first set with a short rest on last rep, second set had slightly longer rests as others got on the circuits and was a fight towards the end but managed to complete with 2 short rests on last rep.

Tues: Rest

Wed: Works for an hour of bouldering. These are meant to just keep strength/power levels ticking over but I'm getting stronger on them, feels good.

Thurs: Had meant to do circuits but felt too fatigued.

Fri: Rest

Sat: Raven Tor for only the 2nd time ever. Good day for company and chat but a strange day climbing with the finger tweak getting in the way a bit and not feeling like my head was engaged. Got on Tin Of. 1st go figured out how to do crux without crimping with the bad finger, 2nd go barn doored off whilst trying to onsight the top, 3rd go did it. Then tried Obscene Toilet but the finger was complaining too much. Got on Weedkiller and managed all the moves open handed but didn't have enough left to rp.

Sun: Rest

Monday was good training with 3 reps of 7b done in 11 minutes. This isn't far off the time I think IG will take to redpoint so good progress. Saturday felt a little disappointing but I finished the day feeling quite worked. In hindsight poor sleep the night before didn't help and I probably didn't eat/drink enough.

cheque

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Damn T_B, this:

Decide to head back to Back Bowden to try County Ethics. After a few goes get sidepull 3 times and fall off not committing enough to big slap up left. Next go get it and rock right into pocket onto less steep ground. Good hold for right in slightly sandy break. 20 feet up 2 mats. Reach top and it's really sandy. Shit why hadn't I thought to check the top? Looks so pedestrian on the vids, just been focussed on doing crux. Try and smear up with left hand on marginal sandy flattie. Foot pops and I'm in the air.  Out from pads I hit the ground hard and immediately know I've broken bones in left foot/ankle.  Get  trainers on whilst adrenaline  still surging, tell rach to get stuff together and start crawling. Back at car within 30 mins then get a load of ice from cottage and drive to Newcastle.

is one of the most gripping things I've read on Power Club! I hope it heals without complication.

Ti_pin_man

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+6 T_B - jeeze man sounds nasty

M - 6am - core 101
M - 5pm - hard climb at WS, hard for me at least, usual pattern to session, warm easys, hit v3's for 40 mins then warm down.
T - core 101
W - second proper FB session using beastmaker app, better than last weeks, bit more used to it.
T - 12 hours at work, shit day
F - 10 hours at work, shit day
S - went for hard climb at WS but was pants, just had nowt, tried to stick to training pattern but failed on much.  Bought some protein shakes on way home.  Think I was just mentally shattered due to work. 


cheque

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Just over two weeks 'til I fly to the Red now. Aims:

1-Endurance ‘for days’ on steep, juggy/ open-handed rock. Definitely ticked this aim- I'm just not getting pumped until the climbing reaches a certain difficulty. By training power for the next few weeks I'll hopefully increase this.
2-Ability to recover on a jug on steep ground. Got this too.
3-Ability to do a steep 6A/ 6A+ when pumped silly. Seen good improvement in this this week.
4-Psyche and ability to go “a muerte” even when pumped and facing massive whipper. Didn't take a single leader fall this week, but didn't say "take" on lead either.
5- day-on-day fitness enabling as many days climbing as possible without burnout More improvement this week- more volume on training days and active rest mid-week rather than nothing.
6- Lower body flexibility to cope with front-on climbing without injury Still adapting to it not being warm enough to stretch on the work fire escape at lunch, but still been stretching and I certainly don't feel like I've seized up.

M- Rest.
T- Depot. 25 minutes aerocap on "6b+" circuit board circuit. Decided to do the "7a" one directly after rather than stepping off and made it through fine. 40ish hard moves after hundreds of easy moves is definitely where I wanted to be at this stage. Did some more easy circuit straight after and only fell off when I tried the 7a again. 30 minutes continuous climbing. Did 4x4s after then played silly buggers on the campus board/ pullup bars with all the strong lads who never climb outside the Depot- close to 1-3-5 on the wooden ball holds I was surprised to find!
W- Swimming at local ghetto-pool with girlfriend. Grange Hill vibes. This is heavy-duty shoulder/ tricep training for me as I'm so bad at swimming it's unbelievable.
T- Partner for regular Edge sessions ill so end up at Notts Wall. Climbing comp/ barbecue happening. Led some routes, did some comp problems, won a box of jelly babies and did huge volume on the autobelay I was surprised to find that they now have. Weird but good session.
F- Rest.
S- Rest.
S- Malham. Climbing with Mark20  :wave: Finally did Rose Coronary 1st redpoint of the session after top-roping it clean to warm up. Felt great. Top-roped 7th Aardvark twice afterwards with lots of beta- one move I had to pull past (even after the pocket had dried out unfortunately) but this will hopefully make a good project when I return to Malham in the spring. Great day!

Pleased to tick Rose Coronary 18 months after first getting on it! I think the lesson is to go to Malham more often.

I've been advised to climb more aggressively. Not really sure where to start but hopefully it will yield results!
« Last Edit: September 16, 2013, 12:51:18 pm by cheque »

shark

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Commiserations Tom - sorry if I jinxed you

11.4-7

M. PM Systems board fingery endurance. Eve Weighted deadhangs, assisted one armers and a few deadlifts.
T. 
W.
T. Noon. Malham. Greasy to start then good then greasy at end again. 4 tie ins on Oak. 3 goes thin undercut to touching horn then got it on 4th (best link this year). Micro beta changes setting up for throw by holding the pinch intermediate differently so I'm crimping it more and option of adjusting on undercut pocket mid move.
F.
S.
S. Malham. Windy rainy cool with a gale mid afternoon. F&E, Cons and dogged up Seventh Aardvark for Tommy. 4 ties on Oak. First go on the Oak got link from small undercut to horn. Couldnt believe it. Almost got that link again on subsequent go. Last go worked the high traverse left which I'd neglected so far. Felt nails but got easier with practice even though I was tired - did it twice from large undercut and nearly got it a third time. Tommy got Seventh Arrdvark on TR in a oner but not redpoint.

Things are looking really positive on the Oak with progress on both sessions. I'm stronger on the throw then I have ever been. Will still do links from the second bolt as it is important to keep climbing through the throw move and once that link is done will redpoint from the ground. Need to stay light / get lighter and for the route to stay dry...

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M Hit local crag with a weak friend and we plod along on some slabby 5.10s. My first time this season on real rock and got spanked a bit. have a great time anyways since weak friend is an awesome guy.
Tweights
W nada
Th Local crag for some harder stuff with a strong friend. Only got on 2 climbs! partner was too busy checking out the main attraction Alex Honnold, who ended up sending a hard local project he graded in the 13b/c range.
Fr Bouldering Gym - strong on individual moves but power endurance completely gone. Sent some hard problems though!
Sa Weights - improving on everything. Feels good.
Su ARC Training - havent done it for a while and it showed >_<

the_dom

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M - Kyloe In, just me and Rach (parents in law looking after kids for morning). Did some warm ups then Yorkshireman sitter, Hidden Dragon and playing rudies. Thrashed myself trying sit to HD but a bit too tired.
T - Holy Island
W - Alnwick Castle including broomstick training
T - Out for morning with Rach again.  Keen to try The Crack at Bowden.  Can't fathom the flick into the undercut plus it's in the sun so sack it. Flash Sprung (given 7c but more like 7b). Decide to head back to Back Bowden to try County Ethics. After a few goes get sidepull 3 times and fall off not committing enough to big slap up left. Next go get it and rock right into pocket onto less steep ground. Good hold for right in slightly sandy break. 20 feet up 2 mats. Reach top and it's really sandy. Shit why hadn't I thought to check the top? Looks so pedestrian on the vids, just been focussed on doing crux. Try and smear up with left hand on marginal sandy flattie. Foot pops and I'm in the air.  Out from pads I hit the ground hard and immediately know I've broken bones in left foot/ankle.  Get  trainers on whilst adrenaline  still surging, tell rach to get stuff together and start crawling. Back at car within 30 mins then get a load of ice from cottage and drive to Newcastle.
F - calcanium broken, have it operated on - plate and screws job. Could easily have been a lot worse.
S -
S -

First accident in 25 years of climbing.  Made a stupid mistake not thinking to check the top out despite rain the previous day and stuff up here just not getting that much traffic. Pushing it anyway with 2 pads and just wife spotting. Now 8 weeks non weight bearing.

That sucks, btw. I have quite recent experience of damaging myself (although not as bad as this) and know how depressing and dispiriting it can be. Hope it heals up quick and that you can keep some of the psyche up in the meanwhile.

fried

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Yeah, ankle injuries suck, have a speedy recovery.

Monday - rest.
Tuesday - Indoor, elbows a bit tweaky, as are the shoulders, current cool temperatures are playing havoc with my ageing bones.
Wednesday - Nothing, wanted to start some BM sessions but feel a bit nigglely.
Thursday - Friday - Same as.
Saturday - Rain, relatives pffff.
Sunday - Should be in the forest but September is a bad month for me, I don't work in August, so I don't get paid in September. Can't really justify filling the car up. Enough of my finances. Indoor, good session. I've moved in a year from working blue 5C/ 6Aish stuff and not really being able to touch the next level (red) to being able to get most blues first or second go and at least get a good work out on the reds, if not actually top them out. I like to thing this is improvement, but since it's the time when my wall's first batch of annual subscriptions come up for renewal I'm getting suspicious...

Lots of work, lots of free meals put on a kilo - 75.9kg

Sasquatch

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Decide to head back to Back Bowden to try County Ethics. After a few goes get sidepull 3 times and fall off not committing enough to big slap up left. Next go get it and rock right into pocket onto less steep ground. Good hold for right in slightly sandy break. 20 feet up 2 mats. Reach top and it's really sandy. Shit why hadn't I thought to check the top? Looks so pedestrian on the vids, just been focussed on doing crux. Try and smear up with left hand on marginal sandy flattie. Foot pops and I'm in the air.  Out from pads I hit the ground hard and immediately know I've broken bones in left foot/ankle.  Get  trainers on whilst adrenaline  still surging, tell rach to get stuff together and start crawling. Back at car within 30 mins then get a load of ice from cottage and drive to Newcastle.
:o  Good luck on the recovery.  Check Shauna's blog for some tips, I bet she'd even respond to email....

Things are looking really positive on the Oak with progress on both sessions. I'm stronger on the throw then I have ever been. Will still do links from the second bolt as it is important to keep climbing through the throw move and once that link is done will redpoint from the ground. Need to stay light / get lighter and for the route to stay dry...
Very nice - Good luck with it!

STG - 8A+ Local Project
MTG - God Module(8A) in HP 40 in Early Oct (prob have crap conditions, so may not go so well)
MTG2 - Go back and finish off Mandala
LTG - 8B and 8B+ local projects.  They finally feel possible......

M - Ancap session, followed by extensive hard bouldering on home wall.  Oddly psyched on the home wall projects. Run 3mi and x-fit workout
T - Yoga
W - 5mi run
Th - FB repeaters, 3mi run
F - Rest
S - Archangel session. Finally good weather.  Warmed up on a few 7A problems, then OS a new 7B, then onto the STG project.  First good full session on it and have it now in two sections.  10 moves to the lip, and every one is HARD and definitely able to fall on....  Finish out day on another new project.  Cleaned it all, and worked it, but too tired.  Likely in the 7C+ range....
S -  Back up to the STG project.  Actually too hot and sunny.  Reworked and dialed in subtleties of the two crux moves.  then done for day. 

REALLY psyched on the project session.  If I can get 1-2 more good days, I think it'll go.  My whole body feels worked today in a way I haven't felt in a long time.....

Jaspersharpe

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Tom your story made me wince. Almost a carbon copy of what I did in Font last June. Similar height, foot pops off sandy smear (after rain), in the air, missed two pads (only one spotter) crunch. Also my first ever broken bone.

I was told in France that I'd broken the calcanium in three places. It had actually completely shattered. Into bits.

Good that they were able to operate so quickly though. Mine was an open fracture and I mashed up the soft tissue so badly that (combined with the journey back) it took over a week in the Northern General for the swelling to go down enough to go under the knife.

As mentioned above, the major problem once you get the cast off is the achilles as it'll shrink loads. The lower limb clinic at the Hallamshire is excellent though and if you have the motivation to work through the pain and do all the exercises they give you you'll make massive gains quickly.

In the long run you'll be fine. Although mine still hurts and the idea of walking barefoot on pebbles or uneven rocky ground sends shivers down my spine, it could be a lot worse.

I can get my foot in a climbing shoe and I can jump off from the top of the wall at The Works with no pain neither of which I ever thought would be possible a year ago.

Best of luck.

tommytwotone

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LTG: Font 7b

M: Gym on lunch - kettlebells, core, pullups and pushups pyramid
T: Gym on lunch - did a "Primal Fitness" class, effectively circuits of high-intensity exercises, 20 sec on, 10 secs off...totally knackered by the end of it!
W: Nowt
T: Leeds Wall eve, bouldering warmup then campussing power indurance, repeaters, max hangs and core
F: Nowt
S: Almscliff in the afternoon, pottered around for a bit on normal circuit then moved up to work traverse across Si's Arete...needless to say the power endurance training hasn't kicked in!
S: Nowt

Better week overall for training, trying to get to the gym a few times in the week to keep general fitness topped up. Not really feeling any benefit from the campussing yet, going to stick at it and see what happens.




Eddies

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Monday: DWS in Majorca
Tuesday: DWS in Majorca
Wednesday: Away in Wasdale
Thursday: Away in Wasdale
Friday: Away in Wasdale
Saturday: Away in Wasdale
Sunday: Away in Wasdale


Majorca was incredible, I climbed some of the best rock Ive ever climbed.
Bisexual at Cala Barques and Afroman at Diablo being the highlights for me.

Wasdale involved a few big yomps in the fells and a few days chilling, which was much needed.

Summer for me is over, from now on its all about winter training.
I wont be posting in Power Club until next summer as my training plan for the next 14 weeks is written and will be stuck to religiously as in previous years.


PHASE   Base   Peak   Rest   Base   Peak   TOTAL
WEEKS   2   4   1   3   4   14 weeks

DAY   PEAK                                         BASE             REST
MON   F-Board Max Hangs (CWP)   F-Board Repeaters              Rest
TUE   System Board+Weights   4X4’s+Weights               Core
WED   Core                                       Core                             Rest
THUR   Projects – 45&Barrel   Projects – Links                  Core

webbo

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Mon. Back to work after hols knackered, so nothing.
Tue. Board did a couple of things I couldn't do on sunday on the new holds and repated sundays problem first go.
Wed. Board mirror session new version. Ran out of power at the end and had too do a couple easier problems.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Board 15 problems to warm up, the 6 problems then did then all again four times.
Sat. Bike 3hrs 35 mins hilly ride felt quite hard in the wind.
Sun. Rockcity first time in a while some good problems although quite jaded from yesterday. Did problems up to 6c+.
 However in the spirit of T.B. managed to slip of of couple of things taking the skin of my shins and the inside of my left bicep as well as bruising my chest.

T_B

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Thanks for all the best wishes on this thread - much appreciated!

Jasper - yes, mine was in 3 bits too. I'm really thankful I didn't have to hang around and wait for any swelling to go down. I basically fell straight down onto it, so hopefully not too much damage to tendons/ligaments/soft tissue. This, plus it being packed in ice within 40 minutes of doing it meant I was lucky enough to have it operated on within 24hrs.

Went to the fracture clinic at the Northern General yesterday and the Consultant said my post-op x-rays "looked excellent". The surgeon in Newcastle has restored the shape/depth of the heel really well, but there is still damage in the joint as expected. Could be loads worse.

Won't try and do any 'activity' in the next couple of weeks as need to keep my foot elevated and heal!

tomtom

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2013 totals:
Outdoor: 86
Indoor: 4
Training: 6
New Grade 7's 20

Mostly (totally!) Honeymoon..

M: Recovery from wedding. Woke up in Askrigg (hot tub 1) and moved on to Swanky hotel nr Windermere :) (hot tub 2) MrsTT had a massage for an hour or two so I snuck away to that wee crag on the hill overlooking Windermere - puntered around for an hour or so..



T: Slept. Ate late breakfast..  Our PlosOne article press release made an impact (article embargo'd until thurs) - had to sneak away from MrsTT for an hour or so (to above mentioned bouldering spot) to speak to US based journalists*. Pulled on for 10 min or so.. 7 Course taster menu in the evening... Beetroot and Horseradish Ice cream on smoked salmon a highlight.. The lamb course nearly destroyed us :)

W: Left the luxury hotel, and moved on to MrsT's Auntys house in N.Lakes... first rain - but it didnt matter as we were moving etc...

Th: MrsTT had to start college in Manchester (on our honeymoon eh!) so I deposited her at Penrith Station - and being the dutiful new husband had a fry up and went to Carrock ;) Good connies - but I was only equipped with my small Snap Calzone mat (I had to negotiate hard to get that in the car - as the motor was full of presents, clothes, general post wedding shizzle..) so didnt feel too well equipped to try things! Pissed about on the Mushroom boulder, and did the easy ones on the Boardman boulder (the Arete gave me some heart fluttering moments as my mat disappeared to postage stamp size) and spent some time trying hard to pull on the 7's on that face before I lost skin/fingers/will to carry on.. The gabbro there is fantastic, but rough for my wimpy sandstone skinned fingers.. Weather was unusually good, so after some lunch wandered up one of the Dodds and down Dowthwaite



Fri: Long walk up to HIghstreet with MrsTT... 5 hour Lamb stew in the evening..

Sa: pottering

Su: Back home/life/reality etc...

So managed to sneak out twice \o/ but the wedding left me drained for the whole week and bouldering has felt like going through the motions... Time to start thinking about my winter projects when the weather cools...

nai

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Pissed about on the Mushroom boulder, and did the easy ones on the Boardman boulder (the Arete gave me some heart fluttering moments as my mat disappeared to postage stamp size) and spent some time trying hard to pull on the 7's on that face before I lost skin/fingers/will to carry on..

Did all that too on my summer hols, can assure you that even with an Ocun pad topping out the arete was a tad nervy, had all sorts of visions of hitting the protruding shelf thing, inverting, missing the pad etc. Thankfully the move's actually not problematic once you do it.

 

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