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Citdibi
13 June 2014, 5:00 am

I don't think I've ever visited a more stunning climbing area than Citdibi. A crag under development, located about a forty minute drive from Geyikbay?r?. When approaching the wall it looks huge and as you reach the middle sector you will discover that the foot of the wall actually is about 30 meters bellow what you first think is ground level. Thus you will be adding these meters of climbing to the already 70 meter high limestone ocean.



Tobi working his 8b+ projekt.

It was inspiring to watch Tobi spotting lines and working on opening new routes. Seing how much time and effort he put's in to each new route, I can't even begin to imagine how many hours he has put in to open over 500 climbs in Geyikbay?r?.



/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Ange de l'oubli 7c
16 June 2014, 5:00 am





Tabitha Buma trying Ange de l'oubli in Anatolia./DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Hitchhiking
17 June 2014, 5:00 am

The by far easiest way to move around Geyik Bayiri, if you don't have a vehicle and are not keen on walking, is simply to stand on the side of the road holding out your thumb. It won't require much patient to get picked up, as long as you are not too picky with the state of the ride.

Better use the right finger though...





Flo and Mette on their way to Antalya.

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Finding supplies
22 June 2014, 9:00 am

Since there are no proper grocery stores close to Geyik Bayiri except for in Antalya, the best way to get supplies is by visiting the weekly market that is held every Sunday in the neighboring village, Akdamlar. A great site to buy for example vegetables or dried fruits and nuts to incredibly low prices (at least compared to what I'm used to).











/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Showing how it's done
23 June 2014, 5:00 am

Sander and Victor sure showed me what being psyched is when working Showdown. One day, after having climbed since just after breakfast, they came in to the bar around dinnertime and placed an order for a large plate of fries. At this point I was sure their climbing day was done and did therefor not believe my eyes when looking out the window ten minutes later. The fries was apparently just an "in between goes-snack" since they kept trying the route until dark.

Next day that they got on it, they both cruised it and where surprised  over how much easier the moves felt than last time. I can't say I was as surprised, having seen how wasted they where on their last tries the day before.







/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Flame of fame
25 June 2014, 5:00 am

Trebenna west hosts several good routes. The perhaps best two of the ones I´ve climbed are Raki on the rocks and Flame of fame. Two routes similar to each other in many ways. Both share the same start leading up to a middle anchor at the bottom of an overhang. From there it's possible to climb either straight up to do Raki on the rocks, or turn slightly to the right as I've done in the picture below.

Flame of fame 8a. Photo: Mikael Ylinen.

Regardless of which way you choose, you will be in for steep climbing on good holds, leading up to a crux just before, or at the lip of the overhang. Hard routes to take down for someone with bad endurance like myself.

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Citdibi project
27 June 2014, 5:00 am



Tobias working one of many projects on the main wall in Citdibi. This one takes you up 70 meters ofperfect limestone, before reaching the anchor.

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Turkey "wildlife"
30 June 2014, 5:00 am

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Dynamo
2 July 2014, 5:00 am

All the hard training Tom and William  had put in during the winter paid off all ready on their first  day on rock this season. Stoked after just having reached new levels by  sending Rabies, their first ever 7a, they jump straight on Dynamo to see if 7a+ was also within reach. Which off course it was, but just not on that very same day...

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Ry and the Küllun project
4 July 2014, 4:35 am

Ry invested many of his days in Turkey working a project in the Küllun sector. After seing how much soul and effort he put in to doing it, I was very happy for him when he got rewarded on his very last day in Geyikbay?r?.









/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Unexpected turns in life
20 October 2014, 8:00 am

I do not believe in either luck or faith. I used to think that for every adversity one has to suffer, there is something good coming to compensate for it. This theory is, as many others, easy to turn in to reality with a little help from an imaginative mind. However, from experience I have become aware that life isn't that simple. There are no certainties, no made out patterns to be followed and least of all, there is no such thing as justice. I should know. Comparing mine to many life stories I've heard, I've been incredibly fortunate growing up. I always had people close to me. Family and friends that wants nothing but my best and to who I can always turn in hard times. My parents especially, who has given their lives for me and my brother. I guess that is easy to think of as a certainty as it's something every parent is expected to do for their children, but it's not always how it goes.

"The world changes every day, but sometimes "change" means it won't ever be the same".

Swedish poet, Alf Henriksson has written a piece out of which I pulled the sentence above. I don't know how much justice my poor translation is giving his wisdom, but I hope you get the point. It's incredible how much one event can affect the life of you or others. It's also astonishing how fast one can be content with the turn of events. I have realized how easy it is to adapt to a reality, but also to be blinded by own concerns. While walking around moaning over an injured finger, I thought this year took off in a terrible way. Little did I know. Comparing issues however, won't reduce concerns. An individuals worries may seem nonsensical to the world, but they are still troublesome to the person they fall upon. I think it is good to be aware of this, but also knowing that even when you are tempted to think that life is as hard as can possibly be, you can't ever be sure...

Although I've stopped believing in the theory I speak of above, perhaps I have come to look at things in a different way. I have been proven that even in the most difficult times, if just seeing things from a slighty altered perspective, light might still fall on the good forces in life. I know I will never be able to make up for all the love and support me, my Mom and Brother has recieved lately. There are no words to explain my appreciation, but trust me when I say that I will never forget. So rather than putting down endless lines, trying to explain how thankful I am, I will keep it simple and hope you believe me when I say, that all my heart is behind these two – Thank you!

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Televinken, Orminge
24 October 2014, 7:45 am





Fernando Lomba climbing Televinken at the one of the close-to-town, Stockholm crags.

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Cream 7B
27 October 2014, 8:20 am



Christopher Sjödin challenged by poor conditions on Cream. One of many great problems

at Källbergahygget, a newly developed area outside Uppsala.

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Wong sai 7B+
28 October 2014, 8:38 am



Jonas Börjesson well protected by Anders Terlongo, while trying Wong sai in Orminge,

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Rhinestone, Simonstorp
31 October 2014, 7:37 am





Fredrik Sydstrand rolling up his sleeves (and trousers)to give Rhinestone a go.

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Perfect timing
4 November 2014, 7:56 am





Danny Salata firing Arnhem land at Solsidan, just as the rain is about to start. That was about it for that day since by the time he was back on the ground, the holds where getting soaked. /DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Duyugu
5 November 2014, 7:05 am

During my time in Turkey I was fortunet to get to meet Duygu Yarsur. A person that not only is extremely friendly and fun to hang out with at the  crag, but also an incredibly talented climber (and a master at baking  cakes). She gave me more than one technique lesson for climbing on  limestone. The perhaps biggest epiphany was seeing her using kneebars.  The first route I climbed with beta from her was Turkish airlines in Citdibi. I think I used about half of the kneebars she recommended and still my knee's where blue the next day.



Dyugu climbing Turkish airlines in Citdibi

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Erik Carlsson kan också vara bäst 8A, Simonstorp
10 November 2014, 8:41 am



Sydde showed no mercy on any of the problems that he pulled on during our brief visit to Simonstorp a couple of weeks ago. Here he is

doing the last hard move of "Erik Carlsson kan också vara bäst!".

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Mr. Salata Medina
17 November 2014, 8:15 am





The strongboy of Karbin (a Stockholm climbinggym) doing the crux cross-move of Den näkna kocken assis 8A.

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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In between goes
13 November 2014, 7:48 pm



Sydde catching some (not so fresh) air between goes in Simonstorp.

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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The Gymfejden final - A post by Björn Pohl
24 November 2014, 7:36 pm

Since the dawn of time, by which I mean the last decade or so, the Stockholm climbing gyms have been in a state of cold war. Maybe not very cold and not exactly a war either, but still. There has been some kind of...rivalry I suppose.

So, anyway, the gyms want to prove that anyone who make the decision to train at their particular gym end up better, stronger and generally more attractive than those going to the other walls. Needless to say, the other gyms don't necessarily agree. This year, to solve the matter they came up with the idea for "Gymfejden" (in English "The feud of the gyms"), a competition running for six weeks, where the climbers were to venture in to enemy territory, i.e different walls, which each hosted 20 competition problems.

Those brave enough were given a scorecard on which do scribble down their daring deeds and when the dust had settled. only six climbers from each gym remained for the final battle. This event was held last Friday at Klättercentret Telefonplan a.k.a K2.

Each team had ten minutes to get as many team members, up as many of the six final problems as possible. Team K2 used the advantage of being at their home court and climbed their way to victory. The remaining four gyms were all given 2nd spot, because as we all know, it's all about winning anyway...  









DO: Since I was not competing, I siezed the opportunity to take some photos (more to come...).

/Björn Pohl

Source: Bouldersgate

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Wong sai 7B+, Orminge
4 December 2014, 5:29 am





Fernando Lomba working Wong sai.

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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La sportiva legends only 2014
7 December 2014, 4:07 pm

This weekend, for the second year, I was invited to take photos at the annual La Sportiva Legends only competition at Klättercentret here in Stockholm. It was great to see for myself that, just as people has been telling me, this is an event that gets better for each year, even though it's hard to anticipate.

This is a word that seems to have spread, as people were travelling from all over Europe, to catch this years competition live. Daniel Woods, Jimmy Webb, Alexander Megos, Jan Hojer, Adam Ondra and Jernej Kruder formed a line-up hard to beat and I guess no one had to feel worried or ashamed about not making the podium.

Theroutesetting-team led by Robert Rundin, Joakim Berglund and Stefan Eklund, withassistance from Sean McColl and Kilian Fischhuber, really did an amazing job setting the boulders. They managed to put up five awesome looking climbs in different styles and difficulty. Adam Ondra showed no mercy and pretty much walked up every boulder, which I can assure you were all incredibly, f***ing hard.

The only person rivalling Adam in terms of performance was David Höglund, a.k.a Daddy Legend, behind the DJ booth. He really brought the atmosphere to another level with his tunes. Those of you who were not there and did not catch the competition over the livestream, can still watch it here, or check out a shorter summary by Epic TV.

After the comp finished the competitiors, audience and everyone involved in the event, went across the street to Tell Us bar for the legendary afterparty. David brought his discs and kept spinning them until early next morning. Just as last year I ended up emptying my camera battery and filling up my memory card. People has been asking me if I got any good shots. My respons to them has been, that if not at least a couple of pictures turnes out decent, I will sell my camera. I'm still not sure, but for the moment I guess I can consider keeping it for at least another year, in case I would happen to be invited for a third try.

















/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Showdown 7b, Geyik bay?r?
15 December 2014, 7:26 pm







Sander Mundos struggling to find a working foot-sequence to do the crux of Showdown.

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate

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Danny vs. Rhinestone
16 December 2014, 2:30 pm



Danny Salata doing a quick ascent of Rhinestone in Simonstorp, outside Norrköping. He actually

managed to fall off the last easy move more times than he failed the crux.

/DO

Source: Bouldersgate