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Long Wall Stuff (Read 3879 times)

kc

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Long Wall Stuff
September 06, 2013, 12:37:57 pm
Three new routes have been done on the very dry and deserted crag known as Long Wall down Chee Dale.

Titanic 7b+/c?
This climbs the abandoned project up the prow on the righthand side of the crag. Very good climbing that maybe a tad harder for dwarfs hence the unconfirmed split grade. The old bolts will be replaced in due course but they seem OK for now. There is something quite different about this route that makes it stand out. I wonder how a ready made route got left for all those years?

Big News Man Mouth
The remnants of the old Crocker route that fell into the void years ago. This starts up Titanic and scoots around the arete onto the sustained headwall. About the same grade as Titanic just less cruxy/reachy.

(unnamed) Atlantic Realm left hand finish 8a
 The old route also suffered from the large rock fall and to my knowledge was unclimbed.
Good chunky climbing in the corner leads to a hard move right. From here a set of good moves takes you over and across the lip of the roof onto an energy sapping headwall. Alternatively continue up the original route at about 7c+ to the manky old tat on the whitebeam (awaiting a bolt lower off).

Metrol 7b+
Not new but resurrected with a guestimate replica hold. This was just pointless and rubbish without and now makes for a worthwhile outing.

A friend of mine has top roped Breathless and this would seem a worthy candidate for some new gear. Due to hold loss this dose now deviate somewhat from the original line. Techy 7c+?

andy popp

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#1 Re: Long Wall Stuff
September 06, 2013, 12:44:33 pm
I'd be pleased if Mouldwarp Wall was restored. Obviously its not a major line (understatement) but it does give a nice very bouldery sequence.

Wood FT

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#2 Re: Long Wall Stuff
September 06, 2013, 12:49:09 pm
good work kc  :thumbsup:

have only been down there once (think you were there actually?) but it's a nice area with a relatively terrying walk in (relative to the cornice). Titantic sounds interesting!

Bonjoy

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#3 Re: Long Wall Stuff
September 06, 2013, 01:08:00 pm
Good work Kris. Best neglected crag on peak lime I reckon

kc

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#4 Re: Long Wall Stuff
September 06, 2013, 01:40:42 pm
I'd be pleased if Mouldwarp Wall was restored. Obviously its not a major line (understatement) but it does give a nice very bouldery sequence.
I have hundreds of BMC/Peak Bolt Fund bolts but no money for resin and 1 pair of hands.  Yes your old route does look good and would have been seen to if the Peak was more like Wales/Yorkshire where there is more of a community effort.
Now days I only bolt the routes I want to do myself. Very selfish I Know.

kc

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#5 Re: Long Wall Stuff
September 09, 2013, 08:35:27 am
The unnamed route is now called:

North Atlantic Drift 8a

and I got the chance to re climb and place a lower off on Atlantic Realm that could be about 7c+ maybe?

Cathedral Taste has got to be significantly harder than 7b+ now.
Some good and currently very dry routes to do here and a change from the sheep paths.

mark20

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#6 Re: Long Wall Stuff
July 10, 2022, 09:14:13 am
Spreading the Long Wall love for anyone who missed the Peak Bolf Fund facebook post -
The trio of popular 7s on the left all have new belays. Demystified 7b+ has a new belay. Moldewarp Wall 7c+ fully rebolted. Brothers in Arms 7b+ cleaned and has some very good unusual moves. The old project to the right is fully rebolted and climbed 'In The Brothers Arms 7c+' - bouldery. Rouge Total 7b has the old 8mm aid bolt on the crux (?!) replaced with a glue in, the rest are good GG staples. Jungle Rock 7b and Some Things Change 7b+ have a new low direction bolt to save your bollocks on the tricky starting bulges, and a new belay. Fatal Attraction 7a is fully rebolted with bolts in sensible positions. Keith's old route Rolling Stone is fully rebolted at 6c, making the best crag warm up, just a shame it is quite reachy through the final roof. The new belay over the roof is shared with Balancing Act 7b and Trick Show 7b+ which have both been cleaned. These are a good trio of routes on the longest part of the crag.
Titanic really could do with a full re-bolt and it is on the list. North Atlantic Drift, Atlantic Realm and Meterol are all proving relatively popular.
Breathless 7c+ is fully rebolted, and brilliant. Cathedral Taste feels like a hard and unbalanced 7c or 7c+ now (for the tall) with a very crimpy lower bulge since hold loss. Utterly desperate if you are short. The glued up right hand start past 2 expansion bolts, is a bit less morpho and slightly easier so makes a more worthwhile balanced route, - Cathedral Distaste 7c.
A Bout De Souffle 7c has a new belay. From which you can swing across and clip the new belay on Multiplex E4. Currently clean and good for onsight goes, I know there are at least a couple of people on this forum who might be interested in this. Take double ropes and a set of wires. There was a fairly crucial peg on the middle slab, which I pulled out and glued a bolt into the same placement.
The direct start Smutt E5 6c has a great shouldery move past the low peg (new bolt) to gain the slab and gear on Multiplex.

Wood FT

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#7 Re: Long Wall Stuff
July 11, 2022, 07:23:15 am
Absolutely brilliant levels of effort. I really look forward to climbing on this rejuvenated wall.

 

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