UKBouldering.com

[Flow][8a+][Two Tier] (Read 4025 times)

Ru

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1972
  • Karma: +120/-0
[Flow][8a+][Two Tier]
September 02, 2013, 10:33:40 am
The line between Kali Yuga and Countdown starting midway between those routes below an undercut. 15 moves with no crux to a jug, then an easier finish. Near perfect rock (one hold snapped and was repaired). Thought it might be 8b when i first tried it, felt about 7c+ when I did it, so 8a+ is a guess.

Its an old project that I first played on just after doing Kali Yuga, but didn't get round to doing. It was then rebolted by Jon Clarke a few years ago but not completed. Climbed with his permission.
« Last Edit: October 06, 2013, 09:50:13 pm by Ru »

gme

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1809
  • Karma: +147/-6
#1 Re: [Flow][8a+][Two Tier]
September 02, 2013, 10:52:31 am
Nice one. Cant believe it wasn't done earlier. Originally bolted and tried by Chris Wright coming in from countdown at around 8a.
This was originally bolted prior to when i bolted what became Kali Yugi.

DaveC

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 786
  • Karma: +26/-1
  • Old skool...with emphasis on the "old".
#2 Re: [Flow][8a+][Two Tier]
September 02, 2013, 01:35:03 pm
Is this the project that had labels stuck over it's description in a guide a few years back? If so, what was that all about?

Stu Littlefair

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1836
  • Karma: +283/-2
    • http://www.darkpeakimages.co.uk
#3 [Flow][8a+][Two Tier]
September 02, 2013, 06:14:29 pm
I don't know nuffing about the guide but this deserves to become a classic. Really good moves...

Falling Down

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4887
  • Karma: +333/-4
    • bensblogredux
#4 Re: [Flow][8a+][Two Tier]
September 02, 2013, 06:46:41 pm
Is this the project that had labels stuck over it's description in a guide a few years back? If so, what was that all about?

The labels all over the guide were included at the last minute to prevent legal action.  It was a disaster of a guidebook and (probably) led to why Grimer was hired and the great BMC publications we have now.

TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3837
  • Karma: +88/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted
#5 Re: [Flow][8a+][Two Tier]
September 02, 2013, 09:28:49 pm
The line between Kali Yuga and Countdown starting midway between those routes below an undercut. 15 moves with no crux to a jug, then an easier finish. Near perfect rock (one hold snapped and was repaired). Thought it might be 8b when i first tried it, felt about 7c+ when I did it, so 8a+ is a guess.

effort Ru! "7c+" my ass.

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#6 Re: [Flow][8a+][Two Tier]
September 02, 2013, 09:31:24 pm
Effort Ru, bet its 8b  ;)

dave

  • Guest
#7 Re: [Flow][8a+][Two Tier]
September 02, 2013, 10:03:00 pm
Is this the project that had labels stuck over it's description in a guide a few years back? If so, what was that all about?

The labels all over the guide were included at the last minute to prevent legal action.  It was a disaster of a guidebook and (probably) led to why Grimer was hired and the great BMC publications we have now.

I never peeled the labels off mine - wasn't it about somebody supposedly slagging gary gibson off or summert like that?

Falling Down

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4887
  • Karma: +333/-4
    • bensblogredux
#8 Re: [Flow][8a+][Two Tier]
September 02, 2013, 11:13:43 pm
The labels were impossible to get off.  As far as I understand it was about the guidebook writers and publishers facing a libel charge from a new route developer and retroing of trad routes.

Falling Down

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4887
  • Karma: +333/-4
    • bensblogredux
#9 Re: [Flow][8a+][Two Tier]
September 02, 2013, 11:14:37 pm
And good effort Ru!

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal