[mrjonathanr]

Verdes have been my go to shoe for trad ever since they came out. Are the pinks stiffer?  Not as stiff or aggressive in the heel as whites i assume?

I don't use whites/greens, prefer Scarpa to 5.10 - except for the pinks. To my eye, yes pinks are stiffer than greens, so your post is about right.

[Scouse D]

the old pinks were THE slate boot of choice. Surprised you think they'll not be suited Tommy?

[Tommy]

Try it and you'll find out I guess! 

I'd take T-rocks and Whites on slate if I'm at my limit. Maybe it's the distinction of how far you push the boot? If I were on mid grades on slate, then yeah I'd still be all over the pinks.

[mindfull]

Stiffer and more narrow heel. IMHO good things. I really like them. The rubber is very good. Coming from the Evolv shaman.

[shark]

I'd take T-rocks and Whites on slate if I'm at my limit. Maybe it's the distinction of how far you push the boot? If I were on mid grades on slate, then yeah I'd still be all over the pinks.

Good effort defending them but the fact is that the fuckers have taken that choice away.

For a hardcore of Tor, Cove and Slate climbers the Whites (and to a lesser extent T Rocks) are the weapons of choice at the limit.

I understand that the sales are limited but they are pissing all over an influential minority. This coupled with the culling of Ryan Pasquill and others out of the team this is shouting out we don't care what climbers who are passionate about the product care. 

Even if they only break even on the Whites seeing them photographed and worn on the hardest routes has to have a value that casts a rosy light over the rest of the range.

[lagerstarfish]

casting a rosy light over whites will make them look pink, innit

[tomtom]

casting a rosy light over whites will make them look pink, innit

Its an interesting Pink/Pain au raisin hybrid you have in your avatar Lagers...

do the pastry whirls embedded with raisins (covered in sugary goop) perform well in heel hooking situations? (I forgot - you don't advocate use of the heel.. sorry) are they an improvement for dispelling bad foot odours?

[lagerstarfish]

The FiveTen pain au raisins taste a lot better than the Boreal ones, but you have to hold them carefully whilst taking a bite or they fall apart.

My experiments so far have shown that neither the glazing nor the raisin juice improve friction for hands or feet. However, they don't seem to be damaging the rock.

[mindfull]

I'd take T-rocks and Whites on slate if I'm at my limit. Maybe it's the distinction of how far you push the boot? If I were on mid grades on slate, then yeah I'd still be all over the pinks.

Good effort defending them but the fact is that the fuckers have taken that choice away.

For a hardcore of Tor, Cove and Slate climbers the Whites (and to a lesser extent T Rocks) are the weapons of choice at the limit.

I understand that the sales are limited but they are pissing all over an influential minority. This coupled with the culling of Ryan Pasquill and others out of the team this is shouting out we don't care what climbers who are passionate about the product care. 

Even if they only break even on the Whites seeing them photographed and worn on the hardest routes has to have a value that casts a rosy light over the rest of the range.

Hey Sharkie,

I'm getting a lot more man love since I wear them 

[mindfull]

But anyway,

Looking forward to the interview with Malc. You will look so cute next to him 

[Paul B]

The rubber is very good. Coming from the Evolv shaman.

Of course it is. Anything would be.

[duncan]

I’m gutted whites are being withdrawn.

At my punter level I thought they were the best shoes I’ve ever worn for vertical limestone / rhyolite / pillow lava / slate. Pinks may have been the slate boot of choice in the 90s but whites are better. Nu-pinks might be fine as a VCR replacement but don’t sound likely to be the ideal shoe for standing on tiny edges. I stockpiled 3 pairs size 10 when I heard they were being discontinued but these wont last for ever.  Llanberis resoles keep the shape pretty well but some of the stiffness is never regained and you are left with a good medium-stiff shoe, much like a pink.

What are the best edging shoes now? I’ve tried Miuras, Scarpas (Vapour Velcro) and Tenaya (Masai), none of which fit ideally well. Unfortunately I seem to have a 5.10 shaped foot. Anything else I should be short-listing?

[Doylo]

I got hooked on Whites last year so got myself 2 new pairs when i heard they were being discontinued .

[Stubbs]

What are the best edging shoes now? I’ve tried Miuras...

I think Katana Lace are the closest Sportiva version to the Whites?  Meant to be very stiff.

[Stu Littlefair]

If you tried the Miura Velcros, you'll find the Katana's are similar.

I find Miura VCS to be amazing for edging. Otherwise it's Sc**pa.

[SamT]

You could always get your beloved Whites re-soled at Llanberis Resoles by Torquil. I've sent 3 pairs (Instinct lace and 2 * Miuras) to him now and he does a top job. 

http://www.llanberisresoles.com/

[duncan]

Thanks all.

I was forgetting Sportiva have two quite different yellow shoes called Miura and two more called Katana. I've only climbed in Miura laces (fairly stiff, not my ideal fit) and Katana velcros (moderately flexible, like a Anasazi velcro that didn't fit me quite as well).

Sounds like the Katana laces or Miura velcro might be worth trying for fit.

[Muenchener]

Katana Laces are quite a bit broader in the forefoot than Miura Laces, and they keep their downturn a bit better. Lots of people seem to like them, I didn't. Miura Laces fit me better.

(Although in mountain boots I went for Scarpas over Sportivas because of a broader forefoot on the Scarpas. Whatever. Different requirements)

[ghisino]

currently wearing a brand new pair of pinks at home, with pink socks and pink plastic bag (!)

brief first impressions (coming from a blanco lover):

good news:
-the heel is still massively tensioned. Seems a good design (very curious. the blanco heel seemed shit in the shop and performed brilliantly in font...)
-still a stiff midsole (though it will get soft rather quickly if it's the same material as blancos...)
-same sizing.


bad news: (?)
-as more qualified opinins stated, the fit seems slighly different. a bit lower volume/flatter toes in the front?
To be verified when the shoes break in/the rands start to peel from the uppers.

[ghisino]

First session in font with the pinks today.

surprisingly friendly out of the box (I found whites and galileos a bit clunky).

side by side with an old,pair of blancos the fit difference is not massive

 but still noticeable. The pinks feel flatter and more comfy (pressure more evenly distributed).
the blancos are a tad more tensioned and higher volume, and less comfy despite being broken in: the pressure is,more concentrated at the extremes (toe nails, Achilles)

the new heel is amazing, like a Miura heel but stickier.

the general feel is that it is worth saving 1 pair of whites as specialist boot for ultimate edging, but the new ones will be my go to boot for the following:
-anything in font that does not require a super soft or downturned shoe.
-worn .5 bigger, moderately hard multipitch and especially granite cracks.
-not too steep sport, unless it's tiny pockets or credit card edging.

in a broad sense they are a better shoe than the Blanco, or at least one that will get used more often.
apart from ultra edging, the only other slight loss is that they are probably a bit worse than the Blanco on stuff where a down turned shoe starts to be a better choice.

[Duncan campbell]

I've also just got a pair and would agree with pretty much everything that ghisino has said.

I'd even go so far as to say they are about .5 a size bigger than equivalent whites?? Maybe the heel has thicker rubber than the whites or 5.10 sizing is still dodge. But this may be to do with the lower volume toe. My toe knuckles are defo further from the front of the shoe and when I stand them up next to each other my pinks are a bit longer?

Maybe going .5 a size down would create white effect (+ heinous pain till they stretched)??

At the Works yesterday I was looking to edge wherever possible as I would with a pair of new whites, so maybe they aren't too soft?

Heel feels less aggressive to me but I had become resistant to that on the whites unless it was fully scorchio anyway.

I personally think whites looked cooler, and found them pretty good all round, only used them on grit once they were pretty much dead though.

Anyway due to C4 rubber they will be better on the grit than greens as I always found onyxx a bit 'creepy'.

Here ends my tuppence.

[ghisino]

I'd even go so far as to say they are about .5 a size bigger than equivalent whites?? Maybe the heel has thicker rubber than the whites or 5.10 sizing is still dodge. But this may be to do with the lower volume toe. My toe knuckles are defo further from the front of the shoe and when I stand them up next to each other my pinks are a bit longer?

Maybe going .5 a size down would create white effect (+ heinous pain till they stretched)??

mine are exactly the same length as same size blancos. They feel .25 bigger maybe???
some people will defo manage to get these smaller, but personally speaking I would have needed plastic bags and never use them with 5.10 shoes...

[Probes]

Having virtually never climbed in anything else since 5.10 came out, besides a pair of vectors  resoled in c4, pinks were always 7.5 and velcros the same for me. Had 2 pairs of whites in 7.5 which were too big and the Verdes flippers went the same. Just got a pair of pinks in 7 and they feel good, very similar in the toe to the old, do wonder if they are going to stretch too much though with the new softer heal. Im a 9 so down 2 sizes for sure if you want them to work properly in my opinion.

[thrashhard]

I was wondering why no one of those who have tried the new pinks has mentioned it but they are nothing like any anasazi i know.
I tried them on in a local shop today and while the heel fit was good (pretty similar to the heel of the verdes) the tip looked and felt like crap.
The new pinks have no tip. They built the the toe area so round they look and feel like you´re climbing in oven mitts. i can´t imagine getting my toes in any pocket no matter how big it is. But the people who are scared that they are too soft can calm down, they felt like a board, to me they felt even stiffer than the whites.

[ghisino]

to me whites wheren't a pocket boot anyway, especially when new.
Actually i wouldn't use any of the 5.10 boots i own (quantum, blanco, galieleo, new pink) on anything requiring a pointy toe.