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[Peak][Howshaw Tor][Various 5-7c+] (Read 19220 times)

Dolly

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Looks like there's some good stuff there -  nice one.
Black Rhino looks great.


What's this talk of Duchess grey tea ? Isn't it Lady Grey ?
I had a look on the Twinings site and there's no mention of it there

monkey boy

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Looks like there's some good stuff there -  nice one.
Black Rhino looks great.


What's this talk of Duchess grey tea ? Isn't it Lady Grey ?
I had a look on the Twinings site and there's no mention of it there

Yes it is the same as lady grey really but Williamson Tea call it Duchess for some reason. I think it has more of a citrus taste than lady grey but maybe that is just me being seduced by a silver box but if so well done Williamson on their packaging and branding!! Definitely worth trying though, if you like that kind of thing!

http://www.williamsontea.com/our-teas/our-tea-varieties/

leeroy

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#27 Re: [Peak][Howshaw Tor][Various 5-7c+]
September 13, 2013, 07:15:55 pm


should have been on months ago, great place.

cofe

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#28 [Peak][Howshaw Tor][Various 5-7c+]
September 13, 2013, 07:38:10 pm
Nice vid. Dab!

Bonjoy

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#29 Re: [Peak][Howshaw Tor][Various 5-7c+]
September 18, 2013, 12:43:25 pm
Nice one yoot!
Just for the record I did go back and re-climb it sans dab about two weeks after that. There's a shit vid of it on my vimeo page.
Anyone else been up for a look? Worth going before it gets too cold up there I reckon. It wasn't really worth a visit Nov-March last season.

dave

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#30 Re: [Peak][Howshaw Tor][Various 5-7c+]
September 18, 2013, 01:06:54 pm
Me and scouse went up late july. Good stuff up there, walk isn't too bad. We were climbing like dogshit though.

webbo

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#31 Re: [Peak][Howshaw Tor][Various 5-7c+]
September 18, 2013, 01:31:29 pm
Nice one yoot!
Just for the record I did go back and re-climb it sans dab about two weeks after that. There's a shit vid of it on my vimeo page.
Anyone else been up for a look? Worth going before it gets too cold up there I reckon. It wasn't really worth a visit Nov-March last season.
I bumped in to you up there, I was with Big Bob. you were trying that toe hooking roof thing and we lent you a mat.
you pointed us at Fo, Sure which you said was 6c+. Now 6b+ :-\

Bonjoy

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#32 Re: [Peak][Howshaw Tor][Various 5-7c+]
September 18, 2013, 03:13:52 pm
Ah right, didn't know it was your good self. Thanks again for the extra pad! All second opinions on grades are good. Hopefully by the time the place gets in a guide the main probs will have consensus grades.

webbo

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#33 Re: [Peak][Howshaw Tor][Various 5-7c+]
September 18, 2013, 03:35:34 pm
We did a couple of 7a's that day that didn't require much more effort and at the time 6c+ seemed about right.

El Mocho

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#34 Re: [Peak][Howshaw Tor][Various 5-7c+]
September 26, 2013, 04:31:43 pm
Went up today - still good conditions at the moment a bit of dampness on Jellybowler and around the start of Black Rhino and Broke Beak Mountain but all the rest dry. Plenty cold enough at the moment!

All second opinions on grades are good. Hopefully by the time the place gets in a guide the main probs will have consensus grades.

Some grade opinions:

Black Rhino 7a  maybe 7a+? I found the second move - reaching out left to lip hold - pretty hard. Took 4 goes to do that move (feet were very wet but foot holds so big I don't think it mattered) Did the top slightly different (still not using lip hold for foot) by simply locking again with right to top rather than holding sloper. Good.

Sneakin’ the Beak in 7a+  I couldn't summon up the courage to even try to do this move. 7c

Inside Out 6b+ (7a SS)  Really good. 6b+ prob right although for me the sitter didn't add much difficulty maybe 6c/+

Monty Skip’s The Pellet 6a+ (6c+SS)  Nearly as hard as Inside Out? maybe 6b although only 6c for sitter? Again very good.

Chip Shop Scrawl 7a+ (7b SS)  Not as good as above but still fun - corner and block to left feel a little close. Grades prob right.

How Sure? 7a  Tenuous is right! I ended up slapping the top.

Not Sure 6a+ Hardest move stepping on?

Fo’ Sure! 6b+ Felt easier than the two 6s on the wave 6b? (guess it's from a sitter - I didn't notice the finger slot till on way down so maybe a little red herring to use it??)

Stoke Mandible 6a

Panopticon 7c+/8c Found about 20 different ways I couldn't do this. I was trying to use short persons excuse but I also think it was hard (Dave pisses it in that vid) I guess 7c+ is probably right

monkey boy

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#35 Re: [Peak][Howshaw Tor][Various 5-7c+]
September 26, 2013, 06:36:02 pm
Good stuff for heading up there. Nice little venue and no one there! Luxury!

Panopticon is definitely harder for the short although Jon and I did slightly different beta at the end it was much of a muchness. Thanks for flattery but I did try bloody hard on it and it didn't feel easy at the time. Having said that I am happy to take 8c as I am sure Jon will be!!

dave

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#36 Re: [Peak][Howshaw Tor][Various 5-7c+]
September 26, 2013, 07:17:59 pm
Black Rhino 7a  maybe 7a+?

Deffo 7a+, me and scouse found this pretty hard for 7a.

Bonjoy

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#37 Re: [Peak][Howshaw Tor][Various 5-7c+]
September 27, 2013, 10:37:52 am
Thanks for the feedback El Mocho. Glad you had a good session up there. Panopticon is another Golden Egg in that I think the sequence I use only just fits my body size and anyone shorter will be looking at a much more powerful set of moves.
All the rest makes sense too. Black Rhino did take quite a few goes to do and I think I had it down as 7a+ originally. Not Sure, like you say is just a hard pull on, very height/pad width dependent, a sitter would be a lot harder.
I think because the crag has a bog on top that there are some permanent seepage points around Jelly Bowler and that short of a prolonged drought you need a decent breeze to climb the two rightmost probs. I've seen them dry maybe one in four visits. They're both well worth doing when they are dry. Good ones for limestone crimpers.

T_B

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Planning on heading up to Howshaw this pm. Anyone know anything about Tom Newman's new problem 'Back Tor The Future'?

dave

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It's fairly obvious, on the bit of back tor facing north towards howshaw. Slopey nothing rampline in a roof.

Looked utterly nails.

Bonjoy

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There is a photo of it on his Instagram. It is the old roof project mentioned in the burbage guide

andy_e

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Where's your new lowball classic "How Short, Or?" eh?


PipeSmoke

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T_B

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Noticed that when I was up there Saturday pm. Looks ace.

dave

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It's an old Farrar project.

Wood FT

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Is this just right of black rhino?

T_B

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No, it's further left towards Panopticon

Wood FT

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