I've been putting up new stuff here since checking it out last October. The crag is actually in the current Burbage guide and even has a photo of Grimer on a route with one of the plum lines clearly visible in shot. The write up in the guide isn't great and no bouldering is mentioned so I was mighty pleased to find a compact edge of best eastern edges grit with plenty of scope for bouldering. I'm not the first to boulder here though, Andy Popp climbed the fine central slab, posting about it here back in 2007
(and yes I do deserve a puntering for my off-hand dismissal of Derwent bouldering a few posts above!). I think Paul Wor(m)sdale and friends has done stuff here back in the day too.
Anyway I think it's a great little crag and a major new addition to the circuit. Unlike a lot of moorland grit crags which claim to be summer grit but aren't, this one actually is a very good bet in summer, I had some of the best conditions I've had there only two weeks back infact.
There are quite a few really good problems here, well worth the 45 minute walk in and two or three that are up there with the best of their grade IMO. Black Rhino and Panopticon are two of the best lines new lines I've found in lots of years of looking and Broke Beak Mountain is less of a line but perhaps has the best climbing on the crag.
Anyway nuff gabbin', here's the info:Howshaw Tor
A small NW facing edge, situated 300m NW of Back Tor. The rock quality is very high, as good as anything on the lower lying eastern edges infact. Most of the bouldering steep, though there is one good slab boulder.
Being high up, exposed and north facing it is an excellent early and late season venue, with the possibility of decent conditions even in mid summer. The right side of the wave suffers some seepage and itís a good idea to bring a towel, or picking a windy day to try problems one or two.
Park past the hairpin just north of the Strines Inn. Follow the track west passing the lodge to join the main Derwent Edge path just south of Back Tor. Head right (north) until the trigpoint at Back Tor is almost reached. Drop down leftward and follow the stone flagged path heading NW for 300m. The crag will become visible off to the right. Cut across boggy heather to reach the right end of the crag. The Wave
An impressive bulging buttress with a selection of excellent steep lines. The right side seeps in places. Please take great care with lip hold on Black Rhino, i.e. donít try to launch for the top off it, this isnít the easiest way to do the problem and is likely to break the hold.
1. Jellybowler 7a+
Sit start in the scooped cave. Crimp out on the crimpiest of crimps to good lip holds and finish up the groove. Iain Farrar.
2. ??? 7b+
Start up 1. then traverse left along the thin break to finish up Black Rhino. If the start is wet it can be started high on the right instead at a grade less. Iain Farrar
3. Those Who Seek 6b
From a sit start at the base of the arete climb the open groove to a triangular sloper. Span out and traverse lip holds to gain the hanging groove out right, follow this to easy ground. Alternatively finishing left from the top of the initial groove is part of the route 100 Not Out and about 6a+ with the sit start. Jon Fullwood
4. Black Rhino 7a
The main bulge is bounded on its right by a superb overhanging arete. Sit start on the lowest break and slap up the arete direct. Preferably donít use the lip hold for feet (itís easier without anyway). Jon Fullwood
5. Sneakiní the Beak in 7a+
Stand start left of the arete on an undercut and the lip hold. Slap into the break and topout on slopers. Jon Fullwood
6. Broke Beak Mountain 7c+
A brilliant sit start to Sneakiní. Pull on from sat on the block using poor undercuts. All available footholds are in. Jon Fullwood
7. Inside Out 6b+ (7a SS)
The left side of the face has a vague crack and flake system. Start from a juggy slot at the base of this and trend up and right via a positive shield to a good rail and tricky sloping exit. Like something on the Wave at the Foundry. The sit start in the break adds some more excellent moves. Jon Fullwood
8. Monty Skipís The Pellet 6a+ (6c+SS)
A strong line with good moves. The groove/flake direct from the slot. Shares the same sit start as Inside Out. Jon Fullwood
9. Chip Shop Scrawl 7a+ (7b SS)
The hanging left arete on its left side. Shared sitter with Inside Out. Nathan Lee Engram
Left of the Wave is the highest buttress on the crag. Below it is a jumble of boulders with some a couple of unclimbed possibilities. At the base of the crag itself is:
10. Apple Donk 6a+
A two mover, sit starting beneath the roof on edges, use the pocket to gain the ledge. How Sure?
The prominent shield like slab of rock leaning against the crag base about midway along the edge.
11. How Sure? 7a
A good tenuous slab problem left of centre. Andy Popp
12. Not Sure 6a+
The curved left arete of the slab. Jamie Lilleman
13. Foí Sure! 6b+
The left edge of the slab on its left side climbs as a steep little bookend prow, with tricky moves to and from the finger slot. Jon Fullwood Upper Tier
Directly above the slab.
14. Slapstick 7a
The left of two short prows. Climbed steeply from a SS using both arÍtes. Andy Banks
15. Dyno Proj
A lovely curving bow feature with a less than lovely landing. Awaits a bit team with lots of pads.
16. Shaw Bet 6b
The left arete of the upper tier wall is a very exciting affair with a dynamic move to finish. Falling may be fatal. Nathan Lee Stoke Mandible
30m or so left of How Sure? is an arete with a prow on top.
17. Stoke Mandible 6a
Gain a jaw like hold on the lip of the hanging prow via the wall below and use it to reach a ramp above. Jon Fullwood
The next bouldering left is a steep undercut block. Both problems avoid low blocks for feet.
18. Pol Pepperday 6b+
The centre of the front from SS. Andy Banks
19. Paul Pot 7a+
From the start holds of Pol gain the right arete and climb it on the right. Jon Fullwood Almost Amazing
The attractive smooth overhanging face is sadly spoiled by its appalling landing.
19. Goodminton 6a
An airy jug romp starting up the arete and following the lip left until an upward exit is possible. The Roof
At the left end of the crag is a big flat roof boulder.
20. Leftover 6b
The lip has a central scoop which proves the easiest means of topping out. Gain this by a lip traverse in from the right.
21. Panopticon 7c+
That rarest of beasts, a biggish grit roof. A classic of the genre. Jon Fullwood
22. Rightover 6b+
Start on the jutting block on the left. Undercut the lip leftward and then continue with a lip traverse right into the scoop mantel of Leftover.
Sorry no pics yet, I'll try to get some and vid posted tomorrow.