[kc]

I have created a few big things to play on at the Tor that maybe of interest to the board local looking for something different and not too hard.
They do cover some new ground and considerable preparation was put in and therefore more worthy of listing than some of the other link ups in the vicinity.

First of there is "Right to Roam 8a"
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=262290

Other than Rooster Booster this is the easiest way up to the top of the crag and covers some good ground.
Climbing it to the Chimes belay at 7c+ is perhaps a more logical alternative to the strangely popular Chimes Alternative 8a.

"Freedom Fighter 8a+"
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=262298

As for the previous route but via Chimes. Certainly a nice way to finish off the Chimes experience if Waddage is too hard/stressful to cope with.
This essentially combines the two original pitches of Chimes in a more direct format.

"unnamed(as yet) second pitch 7c"
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=262988

As hard as the top of Waddage so the same grade would apply on the link I think?
I know there are people that have done Waddage that would find this utterly desperate as waddage is a bit of a weird one cos of the dyno.
It has so far only been done as a second pitch as it is getting a bit warm for me. I would like to go back to it sometime but I am happy for someone to attempt a lazy Onsite first ascent.

I have pumped a gallon of glue behind the flake you would mount on exiting the Chimes belay but take care anyway.

[kc]

"unnamed(as yet) second pitch 7c"
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=262988


It has so far only been done as a second pitch as it is getting a bit warm for me. I would like to go back to it sometime but I am happy for someone to attempt a lazy Onsite first ascent.

Now Called "The Resistance" and is open season for link-ups by request.

[Three Nine]

'Resistance is Futile' takes 'The Resistance' from R2R. An 8a+ at the Tor with no desperate moves for those of us that will never manage PUTP or Dialectics. Nice job Kristian.

[shark]

"Balls Out" 7c

A direct version of Indecent Exposure. Where Indecent moves right instead climb over the bulge (bolt) and up the wall to rejoin and finish as for the original

[shark]

To keep the thread uptodate Dave McLaughlin (dav) has linked Rage into Crucifixion at 8b+

[abarro81]

I've never been on rage... but... I don't think that rage and rage-crucifixion can be different grades surely? I would have thought they're either both 8b or both 8b+ - the crucifixion headwall is easy.

[shark]

I've never been on rage... but... I don't think that rage and rage-crucifixion can be different grades surely? I would have thought they're either both 8b or both 8b+ - the crucifixion headwall is easy.

Grading long routes with good shakeouts is tricky and Dave said he was unsure about the grade for this reason.

He thinks  Rage is fair at top end 8b with the link into Crucifixion nudging it into the next grade.

Currently Rage is going in the guide at 8b although there are 4 votes for 8b+ in the  UKC logbook.

Another thing is that the link misses out the last hard move on Rage.

 

Perhaps it boils down to the level of of allowance that should be made for those that neglect their AeroCap training.

[kc]

Currently Rage is going in the guide at 8b although there are 4 votes for 8b+ in the  UKC logbook.

4 votes from 4 people that have never been on the route no doubt.

[shark]

Currently Rage is going in the guide at 8b although there are 4 votes for 8b+ in the  UKC logbook.

4 votes from 4 people that have never been on the route no doubt.

 

There's also a divergence of opinion for Resistance is Futile

[El Mocho]

On the rage note is it going in with the more direct sequence straight up towards the prow groove (past the new bolt) rather than doing the hard move left? and is this how the new link was done? Having done it both ways I thought it was a little easier going direct rather than left - without the Revelations start I would put the original method at 8a+ and the more direct at 8a (although with the start they would obv both get 8b...)

Nice link from Dave

[shark]

On the rage note is it going in with the more direct sequence straight up towards the prow groove (past the new bolt) rather than doing the hard move left? and is this how the new link was done? Having done it both ways I thought it was a little easier going direct rather than left - without the Revelations start I would put the original method at 8a+ and the more direct at 8a (although with the start they would obv both get 8b...)

Nice link from Dave

Definitely easier going direct and that's how the linkup was done as otherwise you would end up in the wrong place to join Crucifixion.

The draft guide description explains both options - quoted below. If you would like to review the script as it stands get in touch with Grimer. 

To my knowledge you are the only person who has repeated Rage the original way 

Rage F8b ** 1992

27m Climb Revelations to its end then continue up The
Prow to the hole in the break. Pull over the bulge to gain
and climb the thin flake. Either make a hard span left to a
reinforced block near Body Machine and stand on it (the
original way) or (better and easier) continue direct up the
wall to the pocketed break (almost joining The Prow below
the hanging groove) and then move left. A final hard
move remains to gain the Body Machine belay.