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[Peak][Bauston Tor][The Bauston Strangler][E36b] (Read 1988 times)

bolehillbilly

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Did a new route at Bauston today, essentially a traverse of the main face along the obvious break line. 
For completeness a fuller description.
Start by swinging on from the boulder as per ‘Southern Gritstone Esoteric…’ move down and make hard moves left to reach the start of the break/ line of finger edges which lead into Streets Ahead and a rest.  Continue following the improving break left to the aręte and finish up ‘Bad News…’
Some very good climbing and situations.  Following the local ethic I used a runner in the tree to protect the crux moves around the aręte.  Essentially a top rope at this point but I did fall off the move before the move into Streets and took a swing close to the floor.
The grade is a bit of a guess as I haven’t trad climbed anything this hard for a while.
I also cleaned Sreets Ahead and gave the mossy top outs of ‘Peripheral Visionary and ‘Nylon Stocking’  a brush which means that everything on the crag is now in good fettle.  Great conditions there today, lots of cool shade making it a good summer destination.
A few very minor boulder problems added too. 
One very happy climber, I’ve been waiting 2 years to get this done. ;D

Fiend

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Nice one with the climbing and cleaning, was always syked for Streets Ahead but never got around to it.

Bonjoy

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Good work Marc. The top bit of BNFSC is possibly the crux of that route I thought.

bolehillbilly

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Cheers Jon.  Still smiling after this. ;D
It might join BNFSC higher than you think?  I was stressing a bit climbing the last moves to and up the aręte but mainly because I found the first half so difficult and having solved it didn't want to fluff the end.  Still unsure about the grade, the crux felt font 6cish to me but Tim had a go and thought overall HVS 5c might fit - though he didn't finish it (unspoken gentleman's agreement?) and was being a bit cheeky  :jab:(I think).
Hopefully someone might repeat it and some of the other routes there over the summer.

 

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