[tomtom]

It's obviously caused by drying your hair! Get a crop - job done. £40 please

[SA Chris]

How long does it take for tennis elbow to improve? Mine has been giving me problems for a few months now. I had it diagonsed first by a GP, confirmed by a physion, and have been doing eccentric curls as recommended by Dave MacLeod, Julian Saunders etc, and there's not been much sign of improvement. I've barely climbed at all since I did it.

Thanks

.

Was this one overlooked?

Thanks Again

Hi sorry I must have overlooked your email.
This would probably suggest that your initial diagnosis is probably incorrect. Unfortunately Tennis elbow is often used for any elbow pain. Eccentric exercises don't always help and the evidence on whether they work for the upper limbs is debatable.
The elbow joint can refer pain and there are also nerves that pass through or near to the elbow. These can become compressed or over stretched. I would also look at what your shoulder and trunk are doing as weakness or loss of control around these areas will mean more stress through your elbow. I would also want to clear your neck as this can also refer into your elbow area.
If you are local then perhaps I would come in for an assessment or get another opinion.
regards
Matt

Hi Matt, Thanks for this reply, since been to another physio who also agreed it was tennis elbow, and recommended eccentric curls too, plus did a bit of accupuncture, which may or may not have helped. Sadly I'm in Aberdeen and good climbing physios locally are a bit thin on the ground!

[abarro81]

I don't know if tennis elbow is similar to golfers elbow in terms of prognosis, but when I had golfers a physio friend mentioned 18 months as a ballpark for pretty much getting rid of issues, and that was about right for me. Obviously gradual over that time though, and I still do the eccentrics most  climbing days to avoid a repeat bout.

[SA Chris]

Not what I wanted to hear, but thanks Alex.

[abarro81]

Obviously each casevis different but during that 18 month period I managed to keep training and did my hardest ever redpoints and onsights so there's still hope! Just had to modify training around what caused agro

[a dense loner]

Paul B?

[Will Hunt]

For perhaps the last winter I've had a bit of a niggling in my left shoulder. Since turning to filthy sport climbing this spring, this has started to flare up and tonight I have had to pass up the wall as I've felt it giving me pangs while sat at work today.

Its basically a pain that runs down the rear of my neck (left side) and down into my shoulder blade to a point that feels quite central in my shoulder. This doesn't really hurt while climbing, but after getting on the sport I've certainly noticed it in the days after. Particularly pronounced when I turn my head to the right.  After a session at Malham on Sunday it wasn't great. Went for an 'enthusiastic' swim last night (mainly breast stroke) and today its been pretty poor.

Any idea what this might be and what I ought to do to make amends? Thanks in advance for any help you can give!

Hi it sounds like the problem is coming from your neck more so than the shoulder. The cervical spine will refer pain in to the shoulder, shoulder blade area, arm and even in to the hand and fingers.
The fact that breast stroke irritated it probably means that the neck isn't liking excessive or repetitive extension ie looking up. In the daytime take care that you are not slumping when you sit which tends to promote a forward head position. Often climbers become stiff in their mid back regions and this can affect neck and shoulder positions/movements. Basically try to do some stretches for this area and be more aware of your posture.
I would recommend you see a physio as you have had this since the winter.
Regards
Matt

After studiously not getting round to seeing a physio this has now come to a head. In the past month I've had two "episodes" where I've felt a sudden jolt of pain in the muscle in question (girlfriend tells me its the trapezius) which then makes head movment left, right, up, and down very painful for a number of days. On each occasion this has been set off when drying my hair after getting out of the shower! NSAIDs seemed to help and I've been back climbing on it fairly quickly.
Aside from the 'episodes' I also had a lot of trouble whilst on holiday - long stretches driving the camper van causing short-term discomfort.
I'm off to see the physio tonight so will report back with their verdict. I suspect it is a posture thing (as suggested elsewhere on this thread) that could well be exacerbated by carrying heavy pads up long walk ins, playing the violin etc.
Hopefully will be told I can still climb and train and get some exercises for strenghthening.

So, not after advice as such, just wanted to provide follow up for anyone searching for similar ailments.

Posture posture posture. Got to get some lumbar support to make me sit up straight and do some exercises.

[tomtom]

Which is what I've been told... Hunched shoulders = over curved and stressed lower back.

[Will Hunt]

For perhaps the last winter I've had a bit of a niggling in my left shoulder. Since turning to filthy sport climbing this spring, this has started to flare up and tonight I have had to pass up the wall as I've felt it giving me pangs while sat at work today.

Its basically a pain that runs down the rear of my neck (left side) and down into my shoulder blade to a point that feels quite central in my shoulder. This doesn't really hurt while climbing, but after getting on the sport I've certainly noticed it in the days after. Particularly pronounced when I turn my head to the right.  After a session at Malham on Sunday it wasn't great. Went for an 'enthusiastic' swim last night (mainly breast stroke) and today its been pretty poor.

Any idea what this might be and what I ought to do to make amends? Thanks in advance for any help you can give!

Hi it sounds like the problem is coming from your neck more so than the shoulder. The cervical spine will refer pain in to the shoulder, shoulder blade area, arm and even in to the hand and fingers.
The fact that breast stroke irritated it probably means that the neck isn't liking excessive or repetitive extension ie looking up. In the daytime take care that you are not slumping when you sit which tends to promote a forward head position. Often climbers become stiff in their mid back regions and this can affect neck and shoulder positions/movements. Basically try to do some stretches for this area and be more aware of your posture.
I would recommend you see a physio as you have had this since the winter.
Regards
Matt

After studiously not getting round to seeing a physio this has now come to a head. In the past month I've had two "episodes" where I've felt a sudden jolt of pain in the muscle in question (girlfriend tells me its the trapezius) which then makes head movment left, right, up, and down very painful for a number of days. On each occasion this has been set off when drying my hair after getting out of the shower! NSAIDs seemed to help and I've been back climbing on it fairly quickly.
Aside from the 'episodes' I also had a lot of trouble whilst on holiday - long stretches driving the camper van causing short-term discomfort.
I'm off to see the physio tonight so will report back with their verdict. I suspect it is a posture thing (as suggested elsewhere on this thread) that could well be exacerbated by carrying heavy pads up long walk ins, playing the violin etc.
Hopefully will be told I can still climb and train and get some exercises for strenghthening.

So, not after advice as such, just wanted to provide follow up for anyone searching for similar ailments.

Posture posture posture. Got to get some lumbar support to make me sit up straight and do some exercises.

Had second physio session today (NHS) and had 30 mins of soft tissue massage to get rid of knots in the shoulder. He thinks these are a symptom of the postural problem. Plan is to carry on doing the exercises I've got at the moment, practicing proper posture, and then meet again on Wednesday for  bit more massage and to go through some strengthening exercises.

The massaging of the knots seems to have worked well. Really smoothed stuff out back there. So far so good.

[Lopez]

Hi Matt.

 Sorry for 'hijacking' the intended purpose of this thread, but i got myself in a medical related pickle yet again and was wondering if your clinic could be of help. Maybe i should just contact the clinic direct, but i thought i may just as well use you as a first port of call 

 I'll try to be brief, but somehow i always manage to complicate everything... to try to cut a long story short, i'm due shortly back in hospital for an arthroscopic surgery of the ankle to debride an anterior soft tissue impingement and for removal of an osteochondral defect and perform a microfracture.

 Now, problem number one is that as of the hospital's standard plan for this intervention i will not be referred for physiotherapy until week 6 (NWB for this period), meaning that even being optimistic it won't be till week 10 at the earliest that i get to see a physio. 

 Problem number 2, and the main issue, is that after telling the surgeon i was not prepared to follow 'that' plan and that hence i was not willing to give permission to allow for the OCD procedure, he instructed me to (and was quite insistent that i do) 'do my own research' and make my own decision based on that, hinting that even though he had to give me that treatment plan i maybe should, if i chose, not to follow his directions.

 We have a good relation and he knows i'm reasonably capable and knowledgeable from some long conversations we have had, so he knew that i would find that the latest studies show that early weight bearing and mobilization give the same outcomes with the advantage of an earlier return to normal life and considerably less disruption.

 So my pickle is that the surgeon is somewhat telling me to go on with early rehabilitation and weight bearing, while at the same time because of hospital guidelines he must follow he can't help me or provide assistance for doing so... 

 So why am i telling you all this?

 I'm due to be in Sheffield the whole of next week, and was wondering if there's somebody in your clinic with expertise in early weight bearing and mobilization following this procedure who would be able to see me and put together a draft rehabilitation plan. Not sure how common it is to provide plans pre-operatively, but, well, my other option is to go at it alone, so worth a try.

Thanks Matt

(p.s. So much for being brief...)

[mrjonathanr]

I don't know if tennis elbow is similar to golfers elbow in terms of prognosis, but when I had golfers a physio friend mentioned 18 months as a ballpark for pretty much getting rid of issues, and that was about right for me. Obviously gradual over that time though, and I still do the eccentrics most  climbing days to avoid a repeat bout.

Golfer's too, took 18 months, now much improved...

[HPclinic]

Hi Matt.

 Sorry for 'hijacking' the intended purpose of this thread, but i got myself in a medical related pickle yet again and was wondering if your clinic could be of help. Maybe i should just contact the clinic direct, but i thought i may just as well use you as a first port of call 

 I'll try to be brief, but somehow i always manage to complicate everything... to try to cut a long story short, i'm due shortly back in hospital for an arthroscopic surgery of the ankle to debride an anterior soft tissue impingement and for removal of an osteochondral defect and perform a microfracture.

 Now, problem number one is that as of the hospital's standard plan for this intervention i will not be referred for physiotherapy until week 6 (NWB for this period), meaning that even being optimistic it won't be till week 10 at the earliest that i get to see a physio. 

 Problem number 2, and the main issue, is that after telling the surgeon i was not prepared to follow 'that' plan and that hence i was not willing to give permission to allow for the OCD procedure, he instructed me to (and was quite insistent that i do) 'do my own research' and make my own decision based on that, hinting that even though he had to give me that treatment plan i maybe should, if i chose, not to follow his directions.

 We have a good relation and he knows i'm reasonably capable and knowledgeable from some long conversations we have had, so he knew that i would find that the latest studies show that early weight bearing and mobilization give the same outcomes with the advantage of an earlier return to normal life and considerably less disruption.

 So my pickle is that the surgeon is somewhat telling me to go on with early rehabilitation and weight bearing, while at the same time because of hospital guidelines he must follow he can't help me or provide assistance for doing so... 

 So why am i telling you all this?

 I'm due to be in Sheffield the whole of next week, and was wondering if there's somebody in your clinic with expertise in early weight bearing and mobilization following this procedure who would be able to see me and put together a draft rehabilitation plan. Not sure how common it is to provide plans pre-operatively, but, well, my other option is to go at it alone, so worth a try.

Thanks Matt

(p.s. So much for being brief...)

Hi, I presume you have a restricted ankle hence the arthroscopy and debridement. The osteochondral lesion will be "tidied" up and the microfractures will stimulate the bone cells to make a type of cartilage. I know it is crucial not to overload this area as you want this reaction to occur. In the long term you want the best possible outcome and I appreciate there isn't a lot of research in this area.
Myself, Steve or Ian could see you so get in contact asap. I am also around until 5 o'clock today so if you get this message then maybe call me 0114 267 1223 for a more detailed chat.
regards
Matt

[HPclinic]

How long does it take for tennis elbow to improve? Mine has been giving me problems for a few months now. I had it diagonsed first by a GP, confirmed by a physion, and have been doing eccentric curls as recommended by Dave MacLeod, Julian Saunders etc, and there's not been much sign of improvement. I've barely climbed at all since I did it.

Thanks

.Hi, I am sorry you have yet again been given the same advice and surprise, surprise it is no better. I would recommend that you perhaps print off my comments and see someone experienced ie look more globally and check the things I suggested (neck, Shoulder, median/radial/ulnar nerves around the elbow etc).
The physio doesn't necessarily have to be experienced in climbing but understand normal movement and compensations. Also true tennis elbow can get better in a very short time if treated properly but can be individual and in some cases take months. It is important to keep people active as long as symptoms don't worsen. It is good to move!
Hope this helps.
regards Matt

Was this one overlooked?

Thanks Again

Hi sorry I must have overlooked your email.
This would probably suggest that your initial diagnosis is probably incorrect. Unfortunately Tennis elbow is often used for any elbow pain. Eccentric exercises don't always help and the evidence on whether they work for the upper limbs is debatable.
The elbow joint can refer pain and there are also nerves that pass through or near to the elbow. These can become compressed or over stretched. I would also look at what your shoulder and trunk are doing as weakness or loss of control around these areas will mean more stress through your elbow. I would also want to clear your neck as this can also refer into your elbow area.
If you are local then perhaps I would come in for an assessment or get another opinion.
regards
Matt

Hi Matt, Thanks for this reply, since been to another physio who also agreed it was tennis elbow, and recommended eccentric curls too, plus did a bit of accupuncture, which may or may not have helped. Sadly I'm in Aberdeen and good climbing physios locally are a bit thin on the ground!

[Lopez]

Thanks Matt, i spoke with a lady on the phone and i'm booked to see Ian on Monday 

[chris j]

Hi

I appear to have damaged my left ring finger while warming up on the home board yesterday - foot slipped while the left hand was open handed and felt a twinge in the finger and going down the fore-arm. Today I have a tender area around the base/right side of the finger first joint and when I put any weight on in an open or half-crimp position then there is the same pain down the fore-arm. In a full crimp or on a jug there doesn't seem to be any pain (t lowish load). It isn't the same as the more typical pulley injury I've had before so any advice on what it might be and rehabilitation would be appreciated!

Cheers.

[Andy W]

Hi

Ok my problem/pain is in my right bicep. I can make it hurt by contracting bicep with my palm facing out. The pain is near the elbow end of the bicep. Its been like this a while, about month and half. I train or boulder lets say an average of 4/5 days a week, maybe pushing it a bit recently. I actually have a similar pain in the left bicep as well, but less so.

cheers in advance

Hi, it is difficult to say whether you have a purely biceps problem as it could also be deeper ie elbow joint. It hurts when you have your palm facing outwards which is actually taking load off the biceps (the biceps flexes and rotates the lower arm from palm down to up). It could be that you are compressing the joint ie fully flexed elbow and a biceps contraction.
As both biceps are hurting it is probably more due to the recent increase in intensity. I would tend to think that you need to back off on the intensity and climb at a pain free level and then slowly increase the loads/grade as symptoms allow. Maybe stay away from locking out on the elbows for the next few week. When you are back to climbing fully again just make sure you monitor the intense sessions and ensure you have easier sessions on following days particularly when you are climbing frequently.
Other possibilities are that sometimes the neck or upper back can refer pain and we would tend to assess what your shoulder and trunk is doing and are you pulling too much through your elbows. Hope this helps and let me know if symptoms persist, regards
Matt

Hi Mat

Thanks for your reply. I just gave myself a little test. The right bicep is quite a bit worse and hurts if I do a regular bicep curl, as well as the palms out indicator I gave you. It doesn't hurt deadhanging. Thinking back I did do quite a lot of deep lock training on rings and campus boards about two/three months ago. Since then I have been focusing on projects which are generally steep and fingery and haven't caused much pain. The pain got worse three days ago after a session on a problem that again involved a deep lock on a big hold.

I did some research and thought maybe distal bicep tendonitis.

I've also been climbing a very long time, ie I'm old! so maybe posture is a key as well.

cheers Andy

Hi Andy, you may have overloaded the distal tendon but it is less likely to be a tendonitis ie inflammatory as it has been going on for a 2 month period. It could be more of a tendonosis ie more wear and and tear, but only a problem if the tendon is overloaded to soon or too much. It is difficult for an exact diagnosis when it is deep elbow pain. The action you describe is both when the biceps is contracting and the joint is being compressed (also some of the nerves around the elbow can be compressed).
Poor posture can certainly contribute and often climbers are stiff in their mid back region. This area is important for reaching and stretching your arms out for holds. If you are in a sedentary sitting job then make sure you move regularly and do neck and trunk rotations and lift your chest and occasionally reach towards the ceiling.
As before avoid extensive locking out positions and reduce your load and grades. Increase as able and maybe you need to come in or visit a physio.
regards
Matt

Hi Matt

Slightly worrying how long ago my original post was! I still have a deep bicep pain, worse in my right bicep. Hurts now in some everyday situations, such as carrying a laptop with bent arm, and when I wake up, a good stretch helps. pain is no worse when climbing and doesn't limit a session at all. Getting a bit fed up with it now. Any ideas? cheers Andy

Hi Andy, I am sorry to hear your are still experiencing problems. I think it would be best to book an appointment with a physio to get a full assessment. If you are local to Sheffield either book in with myself or Steve Hodgson.
regards
Matt

hello again...I had an ultrasound on my shoulders and biceps, no problems revealed in the biceps, but mild tendonopathy in the shoulders, any links or excersises you could refer me too for shoulder rehab...seems that the bicep rehab I've been doing may have been a waste of time.
cheers Andy

[HPclinic]

Hi

Ok my problem/pain is in my right bicep. I can make it hurt by contracting bicep with my palm facing out. The pain is near the elbow end of the bicep. Its been like this a while, about month and half. I train or boulder lets say an average of 4/5 days a week, maybe pushing it a bit recently. I actually have a similar pain in the left bicep as well, but less so.

cheers in advance

Hi, it is difficult to say whether you have a purely biceps problem as it could also be deeper ie elbow joint. It hurts when you have your palm facing outwards which is actually taking load off the biceps (the biceps flexes and rotates the lower arm from palm down to up). It could be that you are compressing the joint ie fully flexed elbow and a biceps contraction.
As both biceps are hurting it is probably more due to the recent increase in intensity. I would tend to think that you need to back off on the intensity and climb at a pain free level and then slowly increase the loads/grade as symptoms allow. Maybe stay away from locking out on the elbows for the next few week. When you are back to climbing fully again just make sure you monitor the intense sessions and ensure you have easier sessions on following days particularly when you are climbing frequently.
Other possibilities are that sometimes the neck or upper back can refer pain and we would tend to assess what your shoulder and trunk is doing and are you pulling too much through your elbows. Hope this helps and let me know if symptoms persist, regards
Matt

Hi Mat

Thanks for your reply. I just gave myself a little test. The right bicep is quite a bit worse and hurts if I do a regular bicep curl, as well as the palms out indicator I gave you. It doesn't hurt deadhanging. Thinking back I did do quite a lot of deep lock training on rings and campus boards about two/three months ago. Since then I have been focusing on projects which are generally steep and fingery and haven't caused much pain. The pain got worse three days ago after a session on a problem that again involved a deep lock on a big hold.

I did some research and thought maybe distal bicep tendonitis.

I've also been climbing a very long time, ie I'm old! so maybe posture is a key as well.

cheers Andy

Hi Andy, you may have overloaded the distal tendon but it is less likely to be a tendonitis ie inflammatory as it has been going on for a 2 month period. It could be more of a tendonosis ie more wear and and tear, but only a problem if the tendon is overloaded to soon or too much. It is difficult for an exact diagnosis when it is deep elbow pain. The action you describe is both when the biceps is contracting and the joint is being compressed (also some of the nerves around the elbow can be compressed).
Poor posture can certainly contribute and often climbers are stiff in their mid back region. This area is important for reaching and stretching your arms out for holds. If you are in a sedentary sitting job then make sure you move regularly and do neck and trunk rotations and lift your chest and occasionally reach towards the ceiling.
As before avoid extensive locking out positions and reduce your load and grades. Increase as able and maybe you need to come in or visit a physio.
regards
Matt

Hi Matt

Slightly worrying how long ago my original post was! I still have a deep bicep pain, worse in my right bicep. Hurts now in some everyday situations, such as carrying a laptop with bent arm, and when I wake up, a good stretch helps. pain is no worse when climbing and doesn't limit a session at all. Getting a bit fed up with it now. Any ideas? cheers Andy

Hi Andy, I am sorry to hear your are still experiencing problems. I think it would be best to book an appointment with a physio to get a full assessment. If you are local to Sheffield either book in with myself or Steve Hodgson.
regards
Matt

hello again...I had an ultrasound on my shoulders and biceps, no problems revealed in the biceps, but mild tendonopathy in the shoulders, any links or excersises you could refer me too for shoulder rehab...seems that the bicep rehab I've been doing may have been a waste of time.
cheers Andy

Hi Andy, the mild tendinopathy in the shoulders is most probably no different to 100 climbers with/without symptoms. These findings are normal. The other things I have previously mentioned need to be excluded. Locking out can overload and increase stress to quite a few structures. This will not be seen on a scan. I suggest an assessment by a local physio as just giving you general exercises won't help. It is not a case of just strengthening and things will improve.
kind regards
Matt

[Pebblespanker]

Hi

Whilst I wait for an appointment with the local GP I thought I'd seek some basic advice from you guys . I have very recently developed pain in my elbow area on the inside. Hard to describe but here goes (apologies for the appalling descriptive skills):

With my arm extended palm uppermost - On the elbow area there are two bony bumps, the lower is what I think of as the elbow itself. The pain localised to the area between the two bumps and on the actual elbow bone area. Like a Muppet I have been training lots of Repeaters recently and am pretty damned sure know I neglected stretches afterwards... The most pain is felt if I stand with my fist on my head, thumb down and press up against resistance, eg talking off a t-shirt.

Suspect Golfers but not no idea to be honest - I have had mild Tennis elbow before and press ups sorted thanks to your advice previously - I would like to start doing eccentrics and the broom handle exercises as per the UKC article - I also intend to do press ups daily - I wont fingerboard again until I get a professional view. Any ideas what the issue may be please? Would these exercises be OK and what sort of eccentrics should I do?

Sports physios are a rare commodity in Fife and am seriously considering a trip to the TCA Glasgow to see the physio there to get some advice from a body who has treated climbers regularly unlike my GP.

Many thanks, H

[Pebblespanker]

Update: the pain has virtually disappeared as has the tenderness in the area described above, so presume not golfers. I'm going to rest for a few more days then slowly start training again monitoring carefully but not retrun to the volume I was at or to end up doing 2 training sessions plus a day climbing in 4 days!I have restructured training to ensure I have enough rest days and for reduced volume - my old body obviously needs a less agressive schedule and more rest between so I'm listening to it.

Cheers.

[HPclinic]

Update: the pain has virtually disappeared as has the tenderness in the area described above, so presume not golfers. I'm going to rest for a few more days then slowly start training again monitoring carefully but not retrun to the volume I was at or to end up doing 2 training sessions plus a day climbing in 4 days!I have restructured training to ensure I have enough rest days and for reduced volume - my old body obviously needs a less agressive schedule and more rest between so I'm listening to it.

Cheers.

Hi, I think you are right as tendon problems tend to stick around. The elbow joint itself can be overloaded and particularly if you are locking out a lot. As I have often commented on, the tennis or golfers elbow type presentations can be referred pain from the neck or shoulder, nerve pain in and around the elbow or from the joint itself. I would also look at whether you are flexible and move well through your trunk ie you need good elongation and rotation through you spine to allow you to reach.
Most importantly you have looked at your training volume and intensity and sometimes this does need altering, remember recovery is part of progression. As physio's we are more interested in why this has occurred.
It is always difficult to diagnose without seeing you but if symptoms have regressed then slowly increase intensity as symptoms allow and if not maybe a trip to Glasgow might help things along.
regards
Matt

[Pebblespanker]

Thanks for the advice Matt, really appreciate it; classic over-enthusiasm got the better of me - lesson well and truly learned!

[hstmoore]

Hi, I've been having some issues for my shoulder for just over 2 months now.

I have had 5 physio sessions, and it's been diagnosed as an inflammed bicep tendon.

When I first noticed the issue, when it was at its worse, it came on as a dull ache during climbing, and then would progress to become really painful. Since the injury, and treatment (which has consisted of massage and stretches) started the injury has got better: there has been less pain and only an occasional stiffness/ache.

About a month ago, I did some endurance stuff on an overhanging wall, and as soon as I came off the pain was back in full force. My shoulder felt weaker, and when in a relaxed position my injured (right) shoulder sat a lot lower than my healthy left one.

I went back to the physio and he said that I'd caused it to flare up, but that the injury itself was nearly gone and that there was some residual weakness.

In the last month I have climbed numerous times with no pain. I always make an effort to do a decent warm up, and stretch after/between sessions. However, this Saturday I was doing some fairly easy bouldering/routes and the ache (although no real pain) came back. I continued climbing, and after the session the ache went away. Sunday I climbed for about an hour with no irritation. Yesterday, I climbed indoors and I had a pain in my shoulder, although without the characteristic ache, which prompted me to stop climbing. After the session, even when walking to a restaurant, the pain was intensifying, and it stopped when I was resting. In bed last night the pain was quite intense no matter what position I slept in.

The pain in this instance has felt different to usual - there has been little of the characteristic ache, and the pain has had a weird feeling to it - it feels sort of like when you lick a battery, kind of electrical (weird description but it's hard to describe!). I wonder if I have in fact trapped or irritated a nerve which is causing this pain?

To compound all of this, I'm going on a trip to Chulilla in a week!

Any advice on what to do/likelihood of the nerve issue would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Theo.

[HPclinic]

Hi, I've been having some issues for my shoulder for just over 2 months now.

I have had 5 physio sessions, and it's been diagnosed as an inflammed bicep tendon.

When I first noticed the issue, when it was at its worse, it came on as a dull ache during climbing, and then would progress to become really painful. Since the injury, and treatment (which has consisted of massage and stretches) started the injury has got better: there has been less pain and only an occasional stiffness/ache.

About a month ago, I did some endurance stuff on an overhanging wall, and as soon as I came off the pain was back in full force. My shoulder felt weaker, and when in a relaxed position my injured (right) shoulder sat a lot lower than my healthy left one.

I went back to the physio and he said that I'd caused it to flare up, but that the injury itself was nearly gone and that there was some residual weakness.

In the last month I have climbed numerous times with no pain. I always make an effort to do a decent warm up, and stretch after/between sessions. However, this Saturday I was doing some fairly easy bouldering/routes and the ache (although no real pain) came back. I continued climbing, and after the session the ache went away. Sunday I climbed for about an hour with no irritation. Yesterday, I climbed indoors and I had a pain in my shoulder, although without the characteristic ache, which prompted me to stop climbing. After the session, even when walking to a restaurant, the pain was intensifying, and it stopped when I was resting. In bed last night the pain was quite intense no matter what position I slept in.

The pain in this instance has felt different to usual - there has been little of the characteristic ache, and the pain has had a weird feeling to it - it feels sort of like when you lick a battery, kind of electrical (weird description but it's hard to describe!). I wonder if I have in fact trapped or irritated a nerve which is causing this pain?

To compound all of this, I'm going on a trip to Chulilla in a week!

Any advice on what to do/likelihood of the nerve issue would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Theo.

Hi Theo,
The history you have given makes me think it is not an inflamed tendon. The fact that the symptoms are inconsistent again seems to suggest perhaps more of a neck or shoulder problem. The more recent symptoms do suggest a more nerve irritation. You observed that your right shoulder was more depressed than the left. This may be relevant as you may be putting additional traction on the brachial plexus (nerves coming out of your 5th to 7th levels of your neck and travelling under your collar bone towards the shoulder). Try supporting your arm in a sling or when sitting rest it up on some pillows. Does this make it feel easier? If it does then you are unloading the neural structures and giving them a chance to settle. They can be sensitive structures when irritated. Arm and neck movements are good but nothing that stirs it up.
Try some shoulder shrugs and when you are climbing make sure you are elongating you right side of your trunk when you reach up. This is important for shoulder girdle function and it lessens the chance of impinging your shoulder.
Perhaps go back to the physio and make sure they look a little more global and at how you move. They shouldn't be just focussing on your tendon! You want to know why these symptoms are occurring and have you any weakness or control issues/compensations?
I would suggest you rest your arm (as mentioned above) this week as the training you have done prior to your trip (although slightly interrupted) will be enough and you won't gain any improvements this week by training. Take care with looking up when you are belaying as this will compress your neck if done badly.
Hope this helps.
regards
Matt

[CharlieBoulder1994]

I am currently suffering from Achilles Tendonitis, bumps on the back of my heel. Doing stretches to relive it, would it still be ok to going climbing? Thanks Charlie

[hstmoore]

Thanks for the advice Matt, very helpful. May have to get some stylish belay glasses.