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Poll

Pete Whittaker's new route at Wimberry should be called ...

Baron Greenback
5 (6.5%)
Appointment with Jeff
19 (24.7%)
whatever Pete likes
39 (50.6%)
pink anasazi
9 (11.7%)
wimberry pie
5 (6.5%)

Total Members Voted: 75

[Baron Greenback] [E9?] [Wimberry] (Read 35309 times)

SA Chris

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Break the theme, be bold. Fucknut or Arse candle.

Like either of the above.

How about mixing it up - Asshat Undertaker?

shurt

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#51 Re: Baron Greenback
May 14, 2013, 03:23:31 pm
Anyway what do I care the three blog posts from the people there were really good to read so I'm hardly gagging for the world according to Wild Country

Pete's blog is on the Wild Country website.

It feels like Pete has written it though rather than some sort of press release sent to ukc.

SA Chris

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#52 Re: Baron Greenback
May 14, 2013, 03:35:32 pm
It feels like Pete has written it though rather than some sort of press release sent to ukc.

It's up now and reads like a series of cut and paste quotes from the various blogs and other articles.

Rocksteady

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A point meant with jest?

slackline

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They copy and pasted Willackers text from his Vimeo of Hired Goons and then claimed "Will told UKC:".

fried

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I reckon route naming should go back to the 40's, what wrong with stuff like such-and-such crack, such-and-such corner, the 'great prow' sound fine. Jumpers for goal posts and all that.

Mind you I do have a soft spot for 'let's get killed' as a route name.

GCW

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Has Let's Get Killed had a repeat?  Or any of TdG's stuff up there?

Tommy

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I was in the Union the other night with (get me) Johnny Dawes (twas his birthday), John Allen, Tom and Pete, and others. Pete was casting about for names for the route. Having heard the suggestions, count yourself lucky that he gave it something as classy as Baron Greenback.

Good point Grimer. It could have been Smurf's Cum Covered Cock if he'd taken JA's suggestion.

I really hope this route gets some repeats as it totally deserves it. And you.don't need to contemplate dying!

Stu Littlefair

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#58 [Baron Greenback] [E9?] [Wimberry]
May 14, 2013, 09:12:05 pm
Do you think the bolts are ok then? Reading Pete's blog it seems like he felt they were a bit iffy. If its genuinely safe I'd be really keen to take a look when the mal doigt un-mals. Not so keen on dying though.

leeroy

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I think he said (correct me if im wrong tom) that it was to do with the amount of bolts. Ie three gives enough room for error, whereas two or even one would not have been enough to justify a lead. In singularity they're not great gear, but as a whole they're provide just enough safety.

The routes up on Wilderness rocks are pretty high on my list, but its hard to commit to walking up there with Wimberry so close by...

Tommy

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Nathan, you're on the money.

Stu, let's do it. I'm up for repeating it for sure.

nik at work

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I'll give it a bingo-bango as well if I can get out. Keep me in the loop if you're heading up there...

willackers

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I'll give it a bingo-bango as well if I can get out. Keep me in the loop if you're heading up there...

I'd be up for some of that action, Mr Littlefair can go first though ;)

leeroy

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its going to be a trade route by the end of the summer...

willackers

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They copy and pasted Willackers text from his Vimeo of Hired Goons and then claimed "Will told UKC:".

To be fair that is the description I gave them. 

Grubes

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The routes up on Wilderness rocks are pretty high on my list, but its hard to commit to walking up there with Wimberry so close by...

At least the walk up to wilderness is pretty easy definately not as much of a slog as wimberry. If you take a MTB you could cycle up the path do some routes at wilderness then when the midges come in move along to top to wimberry climb there till the midges become unbearable and ride back down.

SA Chris

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I'll give it a bingo-bango as well if I can get out. Keep me in the loop if you're heading up there...

I'd be up for some of that action, Mr Littlefair can go first though ;)

If they hold him, that doesn't mean they will hold you!

Tommy

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It's worth pointing out (unless others think this is obvious) that this should still be considered a headpoint route as the old bolts are similar to the PS flake. They may well seem bomber, but take enough monster lobs and something will break eventually and then one of the best lines on grit will be wrecked (i.e. no one really wants to solo a slappy top end 8b). So please, can people not take a gung-ho GU approach. I know Pete thinks the same. Let's try and keep the present character of the route :-)

Oh and by the way, if you fall off before you get to the old bolts, you'll most likely be in hospital. Hmmm... maybe not so safe then  :-\


Doylo

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Sounds pretty sketch. I've seen bolts that look fine snap under bodyweight. I wouldn't be too encouraged that there's 3 of them. How far apart are they? Is it possible to equalise them? Route looks amazing

a dense loner

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They're bolts that were put in in the 80's, they look terrifying. The route is obviously a significant undertaking and I think it's getting a fair bit of litotes

duncan

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Dense, are you sure they are from the 80s? I'd have thought they would date from the 1960s or early 70s. Grit ethics changed completely in the Allen/Bancroft era - pegs and bolts were not uncommon before then - see the Burbage Cioch. They will most likely be old caving bolts, ie self-drilling sleeve with a short bolt screwed into it. These were pretty crap on the day they were placed.

« Last Edit: May 15, 2013, 09:45:31 am by duncan »

andy popp

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I'm sure Duncan's right and they're much older than 80s. For what its worth I found it better, psychologically, to discount the one on the top arete (same era presumably) when I led Appointment. I clipped it but treated as next to worthless. Not sure I'd feel very much better about having three of them.

a dense loner

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You're quite right Duncan, I thought it was much earlier but wasn't sure. I had faith that someone would know and say something to the contrary ;)

Johnny Brown

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I find it a tad ironic we have loads of votes for 'whatever Pete likes' but very few for what Pete actually did like...

willackers

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I was joking. Although I'd love to have a go on a top rope.

If the bolts are anything like the old ones you see at Millstone and other old gritsone quarries then I wouldn't like to weight them, never mind take a fall on them!

Great effort from Pete.

 

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