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[Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey] (Read 25757 times)

Nike Air

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#50 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
June 01, 2013, 12:41:31 pm
https://vimeo.com/wildcountry

seems similar to comedy maybe or even coparable in difficulty to Why Me in chee dale??

ding dong

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#51 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
June 01, 2013, 01:08:46 pm
This thread strengthens my belief that sport grades are a more useful way to describe trad routes above around E4/E5.
Two routes, 8a+ R and 7b X. 
Both 'E8 6c'.

It's like choosing to make clear information more vague; for reasons of historical precedent. F8a+ didn't even exist when the E grade was invented!

the r/x ratings can also be a bit wack aswell though,  I did a 12c X (sounds like E8?) that was basically a v6 into an HVS solo, grit style grade maybe E3 6b.

well done Nic anyway!
 

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#52 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
June 01, 2013, 03:28:47 pm
https://vimeo.com/wildcountry
Nice one but...
Quote
seems similar to comedy maybe or even coparable in difficulty to Why Me in chee dale??
What?!?! :o I'm genuinely amazed by that idea. To me it was a completely different proposition to Comedy. I don't know Why Me, but I think it compares well with Tinderbox (7c+) at Trollers. Boulder problem start, rest, boulder problem crux then steady climbing. Only it has a significantly harder boulder problem start, similar rest then siginificantly harder boulder problem crux.
Maybe you've lost your perspective at these lowly grades  ;) or it is a very different proposition for a taller gent...

Still shaking my head about the Comedy comparison (especially when considering how one of the guy's who had a play on Exodus got on. He worked the bottom section of Exodus, the E6 Warlord Direct bit, on top-rope and after lots of attempts got to falling off the last "hard" move of that section. He never did that move even in isolation. He then has an equally large number of goes of the upper half (again on top-rope) and got to trying to go for the left hand crimp with the left heel in, but was not very close to getting it. Again even trying the move in isolation he didn't do it, and then he still had the crux to come... This being someone who a fews days previously had done Comedy in a couple of attempts).

Cheers Ding Dong :)

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#53 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
June 01, 2013, 07:29:18 pm
https://vimeo.com/wildcountry
Nice one but...
Quote
seems similar to comedy maybe or even coparable in difficulty to Why Me in chee dale??

Maybe you've lost your perspective at these lowly grades  ;)

This is usually the case with Pete Robins and my routes. Jordan is usually a lot fairer but he was only a 8c punter then... 8)

nik at work

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#54 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
June 01, 2013, 07:32:36 pm
 :lol:

Nike Air

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#55 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
June 01, 2013, 09:19:18 pm
i was thinking if you had to approach comedy with a trad rack. solo up to the mid height rest where you used to put a sling. then push on ahead on pretty much unchalked holds with lots of possible sequence options.
the mid height rest is pretty good on exodus and you do alot of the upper section with feet on big holds.
I did back up the sling on my first go with a wire and did explode of a massive chunk of the jug....
 the crux crimp is quite small but i managed to get 4 fingers boning on it. maybe 7c+ then. it really did feel nails till I found that foothold below your centre of gravity to make that big slap out left. I climbs really well and I'm sure will be on peoples to do list now.

maybe I should send in the Weasel to try it...

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#56 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
June 01, 2013, 09:30:10 pm
Ah OK, that sort of makes more sense. I still think the climbing is a fair bit harder than Comedy. I guess the bit to the rest on Comedy is kind of similar-ish to the climbing to the rest on Exodus. I still think the top bit of Exodus is a completely different bucket of kidneys to the top of Comedy. But tra-la-laaa, it's just cool that you were keen to get on it, and in good style  :2thumbsup:

Anyway none of this is me being arsey, sorry if it comes across as like that. I'm just SYKED that you like the line and rate the quality. Grade debates are quite dull, sorry for starting this one...

By the way I'm impresed you got 4 fingers on the crimp, I could only seem to get two on it.

 

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