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[Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey] (Read 25786 times)

nik at work

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[Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 10, 2013, 08:52:18 pm
Climb Warlord Direct to the thread then instead of moving right into the groove/corner of Warlord continue direct up the bulging face to finish as for Smarter Martyr/Massala Martyr.
F.A. Nik Jennings 10/5/2013

And the extra stuff...
I'm made up with this one, it's taken me six sessions and is really good (I think). I've got video of the ascent, and numerous lobs (I'll edit something up and stick it on Vimeo, link to follow). The grade is pretty hefty and to be honest I'm a bit wary of it, I've not done much trad on limestone and certainly nothing anywhere near this hard. I can only base the grade on my experience of the route, and to me it felt harder than any E7 I've ever done (and probably harder than any of the E8's). To try and put some more numbers to it I felt it was around Fr8a+ but a very bouldery one. It's basically a highball boulder problem start to a rest and good gear, then another significantly harder boulder problem to a not so good rest at a spicy height above the first gear where there is another piece of gear which is very directional (I REALLY didn't want to fall on it, if it failed you'd be decking out I think) then a relatively easy "stiff pull" or two (if that makes sense) in the deck out zone (Assuming the gear fails) to a very good rest and a reasonable wire before the final couple of steady moves to get the lower off. I've kind of lost perspective on how hard the first boulder problem is because I've done it so many times, but a friend did it while I was trying the route and thought it was Font 7b. If it is Font 7b then the second boulder problem would be comfortably Font 7c/+ territory, it's much harder than the start. Anyway I don't know if those numbers and details add up to E8 :shrug:. I guess at the end of the day the start gets E6 in it's own right (as Warlord Direct) and I can walk up that every time without feeling even slightly gassed (look at me :)), whereas I can (and did) drop the second half more than twenty times on the sharp end over six days. So if the start is E6 then the whole thing has to be not just harder, but significantly harder, hence E8 rather than E7. Oh gawd I dunno :shrug:
And now a bit of ethical nonsense. The gear. The first bit of gear is a thread, just above this there is a good nut. I have placed both of these bits on lead from the ground then downclimbed back down to the ground. On subsequent attempts the gear has been left in-situ but the rope was pulled. The third piece of gear (after the crux second boulder problem) was left in-situ for attempts. This is because this bit of gear had to be clipped to allow me to brush the holds (as the lower off is away to the left). I did think of lowering down, brushing the line, then yarding back up the rope, un-clipping the gear, stripping the gear after every brush but frankly lifes too short and it would have been a ball ache. The gear is not hard to place, you place it from a pretty stable position and I genuinely don't think having it placed made any difference. But if some ethical weenies want to get their knickers in a twist there's the opportunity. The other thing about this bit of gear is it is very directional which means it is ideally suited for holding the rope over to the right of the lower off for cleaning as the leftward pull on the gear pulls it into the placement. However a fall would pull downwards (and possibly slightly right with a bit of a swing) and it could easily pull the gear out. I certainly wasn't wanting to test it! Especially as yiou could well be decking out if it rips...
Anyway enough of my warbling, it just remains for me say a massive thanks to my very patient belayers (I landed on the heads of a couple of them...) Biscuit (of this parish), Gar, Tappa and the lucky belayer extrordinaire Rachel.
Oh and as ever here's a little topo for you:

Exodus by Nik Jennings, on Flickr
Blue - Exodus (E8 6c)
Red - Warlord (E2 5c) - use aid to reach the first thread
Dotted Red - Warlord Direct (E6 6c)
Purple - Smarter Martyr (Fr8b)
Dotted Purple - Massala Martyr (finish as for Smarter Martyr) (Fr8a+/b)

Video to follow...

Kingy

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#1 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 10, 2013, 09:33:25 pm
Glad to see it went down, looks nails! Looking forward to the vid

andy_e

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#2 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 10, 2013, 09:39:41 pm
Effort Jennings! Terrifying death lime! Can I bolt it now and get the second ascent?  :worms:

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#3 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 10, 2013, 09:50:49 pm
I enjoyed the write up... Well done... Sounds nails

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#4 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 10, 2013, 09:51:52 pm
good skills Nik
what is the top piece, a wire?

Does this stay pretty dry in the rain you reckon?

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#5 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 10, 2013, 10:05:28 pm
I feel a rapid repeat coming on!

Nice one Nik. When you run out of projects, I'll buy some wood.

nik at work

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#6 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 10, 2013, 10:07:16 pm
There was a lot of run off down Smarter/Massala Martyr, the (single bolt) lower off I clipped at the top was in the wet streak, but the climb is all to the right of that and currently dry. I'm sure if the rain continues it will get wet eventually but probably a pretty good bet for staying dry, certainly amongst the trad routes as it doesn't follow a crack or corner or anything like that.
The gear is:
1) The obvious old manky thread at about 6 metres (could do with re-threading maybe?)
2) A rock four thread through a natural thread in the rock up and left of the first thread. You poke the wire end of the rock through the hole from the left then clip the quickdraw onto it. I could have put a thread in here but it would get in the way of the handholds for the rest on Smarter?massala Martyr so the wire seemed like the sensible option.
3) A rock two, above the crux at a break/line of pockety things. It's a bit directional and I wasn't very keen on falling on it.
4) A rock three, that is placed after all of the tricky climbing. It goes behind the HUGE double hand jug hold that you could rest forever on before making the final easy step up to reach across left to the lower off. Almost nto worth placing but I wanted it in for that bit of security.

You'll crush it quick sticks I'm sure Jordan, I look forward to the humiliating downgrade... ;D

nik at work

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#7 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 10, 2013, 10:20:51 pm
Oh and also a while back I placed a bolt for the direct finish of Smarter Martyr (instead of moving off right to the finishing groove of Exodus) and subsequently weather conditions/real life have meant that I haven't had the chance to give it a proper go. I have now placed a hanger on the bolt but the line remains unclimbed. I'd be grateful if people could avoid the temptation to get on it for a bit to give me a go at climbing it. I'm moving to the Isle of Man in August so if I haven't managed to haul my carcass up it by then I'll happily hand it over as an open project, but I would appreciate a bit of a run at it first. Just saying like...

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#8 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 10, 2013, 11:34:01 pm
It sounds pretty full on. Nice to see you took it on as a trad project. Generally seems a thing of the past on lime nowadays
Inspiring stuff

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#9 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 10, 2013, 11:39:01 pm
Nice one short hairy beast  :2thumbsup:

Jordan I presume Rainshadow was training for a quick second ascent of this?  :)

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#10 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 10, 2013, 11:41:29 pm
Sounds hard!  I ve probably forgot how to climb on anything other the middle bit of malham.

nik at work

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#11 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 10, 2013, 11:51:08 pm
Naw, you'll path it I'm sure. I'm probably way out with all my numbers and letters and guesstimates, I seriously haven't got a clue for this type of thing. Also looking back at the video footage (just uploading now) I think you'd be unlucky to fully crater if the directional bit of gear ripped, although it certainly felt a possibility on the sharp end! Maybe some weird foreshortening effect with the video camera :shrug:

Anyway it's finished uploading while I typed this so here you go, it's just the successful ascent, when I can be bothered to leave my computer for hours to process the numerous different clips I might put together a compilation of whippers. I think it will be proccessing for a bit on Vimeo servers but should work soonish...


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#12 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 10, 2013, 11:56:39 pm
Brilliant. Inspirational stuff Nik, good work!

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#13 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 11, 2013, 12:14:25 am
Saw you taking some pretty mental falls off this last Sunday, great effort getting it done. Outrageous terrain for trad!

nik at work

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#14 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 11, 2013, 07:09:44 am
Cheers guys  :)

andy popp

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#15 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 11, 2013, 08:26:05 am
Fantastic stuff. I feel like such a has been/never was.

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#16 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 11, 2013, 09:06:23 am
Bloody Hell! Now I understand why you seemed a bit distracted, and looked like a man-on-a mission over the Bank Holiday weekend.  Good Work fella! 

Just as an aside, does anyone else find hard limestone routes just look so much more serious and well... hard.... than their grit counterparts? I look at the big trad lines at, say, Gordale and cannot imagine ever being fit and brave enough to do them (whereas I can kid myself into thinking that, given a lot of headpoint practice, I could momentarily put fear aside and boulder my way up a comparatively graded grit route).

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#17 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 11, 2013, 09:28:23 am
Ha-ha cheers Moose, sorry if I seemed a bit grumpy/self-absorbed. I promise I'll be back to my usual cheery wittering self when we next meet  :)

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#18 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 11, 2013, 09:53:38 am
You were not grumpy at all - good humored but obviously rather focused - and with good reason!  Frankly in your situation, I'd have insisted on being carried along the crag on a palanquin; borne above the belaying hordes, free to serenely meditate on the task ahead!

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#19 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 11, 2013, 11:33:43 am
Effort! Doesn't spicey 8a+ on trad normally equate to E9?

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#20 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 11, 2013, 11:42:40 am
Good effort Nik, looks great.

If it is Font 7b then the second boulder problem would be comfortably Font 7c/+ territory, it's much harder than the start. Anyway I don't know if those numbers and details add up to E8 :shrug:. I guess at the end of the day the start gets E6 in it's own right (as Warlord Direct) and I can walk up that every time without feeling even slightly gassed (look at me :)), whereas I can (and did) drop the second half more than twenty times on the sharp end over six days. So if the start is E6 then the whole thing has to be not just harder, but significantly harder, hence E8 rather than E7. Oh gawd I dunno :shrug:

Ah the beauty of our grading system, how about just Fr8a+ X?

nik at work

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#21 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 11, 2013, 12:35:21 pm
Cheers Stubbs, grades huh?? :)

Geez Doyle, I thought E8 was a big number and you come crashing in with that suggestion :o :)
I don't know if it is 8a+, it's very bouldery and it "felt" as hard as an 8a+ to me, but it might not be. And it might not be that spicy, maybe that bit of gear after the crux is good in someone elses eyes, and the moves above it aren't really that hard, maybe they're not hard at all, maybe I'm a wimp. And maybe the bottom isn't Font 7B, so maybe the upper crux isn't 7C/+, it's all just built on a house of cards... The only thing I know is that the whole route is significantly harder than the start alone, and that gets E6. So I think it must be harder than E7.
But honestly I have no idea, it would be good if someone with a clue got on it.
Sorry, I've warbled on again haven't I?
Anyway cheers Doylo, now go out and climb/get pissed it's your birthday

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#22 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 11, 2013, 12:41:40 pm
Ha I only said it cos it's lime and I was thinking of the Pembroke standard where 8a tends to be E8 and 8a+ E9. Like all new routes it needs a repeat or two to comfirm the grade!

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#23 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 12, 2013, 10:04:26 am
It was harder than Doug right?

nik at work

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#24 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 12, 2013, 10:54:03 am
I'm looking at all the smileys and wondering which one to pick...
 :)

I'm not entitrely sure what you're asking? Obviously it's physically much harder than Doug. Doug is what Fr7a+/7b at a complete guess? Mentally it's a completely different proposition. Exodus was a bit spicy feeling and I didn't want to drop the top because I didn't have massive faith in the gear at that point but compared to the exposure and commitment on Doug it's "easier". Also the style of approach was different so to an extent your comparing apples and oranges. For me I'm pretty sure it's the most effort I've put into any trad ascent, so by that metric it is the "most difficult" whatever that means. Doug is still in my mind my best climb, and probably always will be. However this is up there in the top handful. Is that an answer to your question?

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#25 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 12, 2013, 11:50:35 am
This thread strengthens my belief that sport grades are a more useful way to describe trad routes above around E4/E5.
Two routes, 8a+ R and 7b X. 
Both 'E8 6c'.

It's like choosing to make clear information more vague; for reasons of historical precedent. F8a+ didn't even exist when the E grade was invented!






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#26 [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 12, 2013, 12:06:33 pm
Question: when was the last time anyone did a slabby sport route entirely on crystals and pebbles? So a French grade for doug is a meaningless to me as an E grade for Nik's route may seem to seasoned sport heads.

Is anyone going to look at nik's new route in the book and then look at doug and assume that they're in for the same experience just because the grade is the same? Of course not, because they have a brain and can read the route description. The E grade was never intended to give you every price of info you might need on a route, its just supposed to be a rough overall yardstick of "difficulty", so lets not start moaning when it's doing its job just fine.

Nik good effort on the route.

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#27 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 12, 2013, 12:13:45 pm
This thread strengthens my belief that sport grades are a more useful way to describe trad routes above around E4/E5.
Two routes, 8a+ R and 7b X. 
Both 'E8 6c'.

It's like choosing to make clear information more vague; for reasons of historical precedent. F8a+ didn't even exist when the E grade was invented!

Put your money where your mouth is Pete, grade all routes above E3 in your new North Limestone Guide like that. Ie: The Great Wall at Craig y Forwyn will be 6c.

£20 to the North Wales Bolt fund if you do!

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#28 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 12, 2013, 12:37:56 pm
Haha now wouldn't that be a thing  ;D I reckon it's worth more than twenty quid though! - Great Wall at Forwyn would be a 4 star 6c and loads of people would be trying it.

Dave - yeah I know, no need to get all defensive, I'm only pointing out the obvious, as are you. And of course your point can be turned on its head to the same effect - i.e. anyone with a brain can see 7b X and 8a+ R are completely different experiences too. Except the more meaningful information is right there in the numbers without needing to go and ask wiser folk what the real physical difficulties are like.

Apologies for the off-topicness and great effort Nik.

SA Chris

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#29 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 12, 2013, 09:28:49 pm
the (single bolt) lower off

Single bolt lower -off automatically gets E8 from me.

Effort Nik. Too lazy to place bolts :)

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#30 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 12, 2013, 10:33:38 pm
Hi nik, that looks wild, good effort. With the grades thing, and with my limited knowledge, comparing it to quarried grit 8s, which probably transfers more than with natural grit, safe F8a's are around E8, and even things like Toxic that's F8a+ maybe b, and safe, but I reckon put that difficulty in a proper hairy situation then is E8 enough? + limestone trad is sketchy fullstop then  :-\

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#31 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 12, 2013, 11:06:26 pm
Lots of grade talk, specific to the route and broader stuff, which is all good.
For the broader debate about grades I've got an opinion that may even be worth writing down (and possibly even reading) but it's late and I'm tired so maybe tomorrow. Suffice it to say that it sounds like I probably hold a similar view to Dave, I like UK trad grades and their subtleties and certainly don't think they are broken or not fit for purpose. Their implementation is not always consistent, but that is no fault of the grading system, that;s user error.
as for specific grading of this route, I think it feels like E8 6c. That's just my honest attempt to guess it's value on the grading scale. I can try to justify it by throwing in a couple of bouldering grades and a sport grade. But they are equally just my guesses of how it felt, and could be just as accurate or inaccurate as my trad grading. I've drawn my line in the sand, but that's all it is. Someone (Jordan?) could easily have a different experience.
It's interesting to read peoples thoughts, and it's very helpful to see how people view the different grading systems and how they interact and relate to one another. But for me and this route it simply comes down to it felt too hard to be E7 and E9 is just too bold a claim.
Anyway enough of this highbrow shit, here's me falling off a lot:

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#32 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 12, 2013, 11:06:59 pm

Single bolt lower -off automatically gets E8 from me.


Don't go to the Frankenjura then Chris, they usually don't bother with 2 bolt lower offs, E8 every time!

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#33 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 13, 2013, 11:55:15 am
And the inevitable long self-indulgent blog post, sorry...

http://nikjennings.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/exodus.html

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#34 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 14, 2013, 10:37:35 am
I found a write up has on climb magazines website: Here with a cool pic from seb grieves of nik falling

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#35 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 14, 2013, 06:56:56 pm
Good work Nik! Limestone E8 on a King Crag :-)

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#36 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 14, 2013, 08:56:46 pm
I didn't know the numbers were going to be that big ! I thought you were making it look hard  :P

Very happy for you - and i even read your long blog. Good read. BTW if your climbing partner isn't willing to give a bit of their time to help achieve a goal then they're not worth it. It's not selfish, it's climbing, and what goes around comes around. I'm sure you'd do the same for someone else - unless you really are selfish  :-\

Hope you get the other one done b4 the big move  :2thumbsup:

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#37 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 16, 2013, 11:13:30 am
Just to add more to the grading talk shizzle.....

E8 6c seems like a more than fair grade if it is 8a+ climbing

To put this into context:
Gaia is probably only 7b+ possibly 7c
End of an Affair is only 7a+
Whereas Captain Invincible is 8a+/8b


Perhaps both grading systems should be used in the future which would give future climbers even more info.

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#38 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 16, 2013, 11:32:43 am
I tried the direct finish to Smarter Martyr/Massala Martyr through the dihedral/bulge about three years ago...really sustained sequence and felt very hard (not particularly nice sequence of moves either)...the intention was that it would link into the top of Soft Option/Zero option right where Soft option get's hard...I would be surprised if the same set of holds are still available now as that buttress seems to shed holds every winter...

Think Andy tried it too separately...

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#39 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 16, 2013, 02:59:14 pm
Great effort Nik,  :clap2:
It's good to see this go down, hope you succeed on ASM direct before you move. Do you remember my topo with a silly amount of lines on it? Great to tick one off the list.
NCB - I think you're talking about the line further left which I bolted, you're right about the holds on that one. Tough cookie and very fingery.
Nik, why don't you try ground-upping the direct start to Little Ernie at the right side of Kilnsey? That might give you a comparison for E8 on lime trad. I don't know if that ever got repeated? Looks neat as a highball.

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#40 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 16, 2013, 03:20:57 pm
Good suggestion Uptown, after Smarter Martyr gets straightened out that's the next Kilnsey target I think (if I'm still here  :'()

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#41 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 16, 2013, 03:22:43 pm
Taramasalata Martyr?

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#42 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 16, 2013, 04:18:59 pm
NCB - I think you're talking about the line further left which I bolted, you're right about the holds on that one. Tough cookie and very fingery.

Yeah possibly so, from the photo looks like straight up from where SM trends rightwards then up? From the narrow break/ledge?

Nik, why don't you try ground-upping the direct start to Little Ernie at the right side of Kilnsey? That might give you a comparison for E8 on lime trad. I don't know if that ever got repeated? Looks neat as a highball.

or the Vickers E8 at Yew Cogar, 'Happy Birthday to Yew'....?

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#43 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 16, 2013, 04:23:50 pm
NCB - I think you're talking about the line further left which I bolted, you're right about the holds on that one. Tough cookie and very fingery.

Yeah possibly so, from the photo looks like straight up from where SM trends rightwards then up? From the narrow break/ledge?
Yes that's right, not the line further left which you and Andy were(are?) trying, which looks desperate!
Quote

Nik, why don't you try ground-upping the direct start to Little Ernie at the right side of Kilnsey? That might give you a comparison for E8 on lime trad. I don't know if that ever got repeated? Looks neat as a highball.

or the Vickers E8 at Yew Cogar, 'Happy Birthday to Yew'....?
If that's graded with anything like the same accuracy as his "8b+" at Yew Cogar it will be more like E11...

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#44 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 31, 2013, 09:07:14 pm
Repeated this tonight, great little extension to warlord. Good vision there!!
I thought the fall was pretty good onto bomber gear especially if the tired looking thread is backed up with a medium cam.
Overall I thought it felt about 7c with a good fall out zone. Once the crux is done the wire above is bomber and the moves above not bad at all.
I did it ground up. managed it first go this evening. I had an evening on it last week after window cleaning all day with my hands in soapy water and I ended up at the crux 7 times in very quick succession trying to find a controlled method but taking 7 falls.
Once I got home I saw on the vid that you just bring your right foot well underneath you. That's just what I did tonight after Naomi gave the route a good clean which made such a difference compared to the other evening when it had just dried off and felt well dusty and slimey.
really mint route.
Naomi put a maillon and a biner on the peg (maillon to stop the the biner twisting and kinking the rope). Please leave this on to make lowering off safe until someone puts a proper lower off. No point trusting just one anchor..

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#45 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 31, 2013, 09:49:03 pm
Nice one Jordan. 7c!! Felt a fair bit harder than that to me, but hey-ho. E7 then?

I left a crab in the lower off bolt earlier today, did you strip that out or is it still there?

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#46 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 31, 2013, 10:17:55 pm
I may be wrong, let others decide...
felt similar to ninth life.
 I ll try and bang up a video once I master technology!

No the krab is still up there on the bolt hanger. Brave man coming down on just that!!


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#47 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 31, 2013, 11:24:59 pm
Bravo Jordan. Nik better keep you away from Summit Quarry eh!

What would you give the Warlord Direct start (E grade / Font grade)?? Cos nik's reasoning seemed pretty sound...

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#48 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
May 31, 2013, 11:39:03 pm
start, around font 6c+ maybe 7a. I could reach a crimp in the roof so probably made it easier. I cant really give that bit an e grade as I had pads.
Tho im probably well out on grades atm.

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#49 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
June 01, 2013, 08:01:42 am
Bravo Jordan. Nik better keep you away from Summit Quarry eh!
True dat  :)...
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What would you give the Warlord Direct start (E grade / Font grade)?? Cos nik's reasoning seemed pretty sound...
start, around font 6c+ maybe 7a. I could reach a crimp in the roof so probably made it easier. I cant really give that bit an e grade as I had pads.
Tho im probably well out on grades atm.
I'm thinking Jordan is climbing better than he thinks he is right now :-\...
7c seems very harsh to me, maybe you need to undergo a 9a beast grading re-calibration? :)

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#50 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
June 01, 2013, 12:41:31 pm
https://vimeo.com/wildcountry

seems similar to comedy maybe or even coparable in difficulty to Why Me in chee dale??

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#51 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
June 01, 2013, 01:08:46 pm
This thread strengthens my belief that sport grades are a more useful way to describe trad routes above around E4/E5.
Two routes, 8a+ R and 7b X. 
Both 'E8 6c'.

It's like choosing to make clear information more vague; for reasons of historical precedent. F8a+ didn't even exist when the E grade was invented!

the r/x ratings can also be a bit wack aswell though,  I did a 12c X (sounds like E8?) that was basically a v6 into an HVS solo, grit style grade maybe E3 6b.

well done Nic anyway!
 

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#52 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
June 01, 2013, 03:28:47 pm
https://vimeo.com/wildcountry
Nice one but...
Quote
seems similar to comedy maybe or even coparable in difficulty to Why Me in chee dale??
What?!?! :o I'm genuinely amazed by that idea. To me it was a completely different proposition to Comedy. I don't know Why Me, but I think it compares well with Tinderbox (7c+) at Trollers. Boulder problem start, rest, boulder problem crux then steady climbing. Only it has a significantly harder boulder problem start, similar rest then siginificantly harder boulder problem crux.
Maybe you've lost your perspective at these lowly grades  ;) or it is a very different proposition for a taller gent...

Still shaking my head about the Comedy comparison (especially when considering how one of the guy's who had a play on Exodus got on. He worked the bottom section of Exodus, the E6 Warlord Direct bit, on top-rope and after lots of attempts got to falling off the last "hard" move of that section. He never did that move even in isolation. He then has an equally large number of goes of the upper half (again on top-rope) and got to trying to go for the left hand crimp with the left heel in, but was not very close to getting it. Again even trying the move in isolation he didn't do it, and then he still had the crux to come... This being someone who a fews days previously had done Comedy in a couple of attempts).

Cheers Ding Dong :)

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#53 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
June 01, 2013, 07:29:18 pm
https://vimeo.com/wildcountry
Nice one but...
Quote
seems similar to comedy maybe or even coparable in difficulty to Why Me in chee dale??

Maybe you've lost your perspective at these lowly grades  ;)

This is usually the case with Pete Robins and my routes. Jordan is usually a lot fairer but he was only a 8c punter then... 8)

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#54 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
June 01, 2013, 07:32:36 pm
 :lol:

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#55 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
June 01, 2013, 09:19:18 pm
i was thinking if you had to approach comedy with a trad rack. solo up to the mid height rest where you used to put a sling. then push on ahead on pretty much unchalked holds with lots of possible sequence options.
the mid height rest is pretty good on exodus and you do alot of the upper section with feet on big holds.
I did back up the sling on my first go with a wire and did explode of a massive chunk of the jug....
 the crux crimp is quite small but i managed to get 4 fingers boning on it. maybe 7c+ then. it really did feel nails till I found that foothold below your centre of gravity to make that big slap out left. I climbs really well and I'm sure will be on peoples to do list now.

maybe I should send in the Weasel to try it...

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#56 Re: [Exodus][E8 6c][Kilnsey]
June 01, 2013, 09:30:10 pm
Ah OK, that sort of makes more sense. I still think the climbing is a fair bit harder than Comedy. I guess the bit to the rest on Comedy is kind of similar-ish to the climbing to the rest on Exodus. I still think the top bit of Exodus is a completely different bucket of kidneys to the top of Comedy. But tra-la-laaa, it's just cool that you were keen to get on it, and in good style  :2thumbsup:

Anyway none of this is me being arsey, sorry if it comes across as like that. I'm just SYKED that you like the line and rate the quality. Grade debates are quite dull, sorry for starting this one...

By the way I'm impresed you got 4 fingers on the crimp, I could only seem to get two on it.

 

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