UKBouldering.com

[Peak][Curbar, Froggatt, Bradley, Stanage][various 5 - 7b] (Read 15076 times)

old cheese

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 318
  • Karma: +13/-1
  • does my arse look big in this
Neither of us could do stoneground. It was very warm in the sun and the intermediate hold half way up the side wall felt log. Needed cooler conditions.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9922
  • Karma: +560/-8
Ok right. His vague text makes sense now. Thought it was good going doing it in summer temps!

highrepute

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1287
  • Karma: +109/-0
  • Blah
yo. I went a repeating Brown and Out last night. Frustratingly didn't get it last week and had to go back. I think it's a bit harder than 7a. Although, tricky to grade as it's a bit of a percentage move to the slot. I would suggest it's nearly 7b based on how many goes it took me, but maybe if you are lucky it'll feel like 7a+.

Good work either way.

Bread and Circuses is 3* classic

Gritlad

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 484
  • Karma: +26/-0
  • I'm not actually much of a lad.
reckon it all depends on how much your fingers resemble sausages  ;)

highrepute

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1287
  • Karma: +109/-0
  • Blah
reckon it all depends on how much your fingers resemble sausages  ;)

That doesn't help me justify my struggles, my fingers are more like twiglets than sausages  :(

Gritlad

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 484
  • Karma: +26/-0
  • I'm not actually much of a lad.
Had a little play on The Captain today (Read- Couldn't do it). Anyone here done it? Found it stern for 7A, although Im not good at hugging mini fridges. Good problem mind

205Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1147
  • Karma: +126/-0
Had a little play on The Captain today (Read- Couldn't do it). Anyone here done it? Found it stern for 7A, although Im not good at hugging mini fridges. Good problem mind

Alright youth. I did this a couple of weeks ago. Don't think I used any trick beta, just slappy prow climbing while clamping with your heels.

Tis indeed a good problem. Was quite scrittly when I tried it but 7a/+ ish felt right to me (bearing in mind I have no idea about grades).

Gritlad

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 484
  • Karma: +26/-0
  • I'm not actually much of a lad.
Ah right, found the last couple of slappy moves quite hard especially after the bottom bit.
I am rubbish with clamping and the like.
Was nice and clean today, no scrittle.

Scouse D

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1367
  • Karma: +73/-2
Did The Captain today with Dave P. Good problem. Still scrittly and about 7A. A good thuggy problem

dave

  • Guest
What he said, only exchanging his name for mine.

dave

  • Guest
Here's a photo of The Captain that makes it look more like what it is, rather than the ones earlier in the thread:

pic.twitter.com/7RxH4vYbya

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5795
  • Karma: +187/-5
Ridiculous tickmarks on a lot of the Froggatt Woods stuff today, inc the Captain. Thick chalk, several inches long, both above and below holds, and in some cases even in the right places. Also on the stuff on the Stottie block, inc some big unmissable footholds over left. Are we really this fucking blind? Most weren't needed in the first place, and they should certainly have been brushed off afterwards. Cost me about £50 in Lapis cleaning the fuckers off.

Also saw banana skins in trees near blocks where I'd guess only climbers would go. We're a classy bunch sometimes aren't we?

Judging by the chalk, I'd say people are starting the Captain 2 or 3 moves in too. Back around. Good problem.

Ta ta.

Edit: should have grabbed a few pics, but was too busy climbing.
« Last Edit: November 30, 2013, 07:11:55 pm by cofe »

Drew

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Am I really a
  • Posts: 1739
  • Karma: +36/-4
Went to the Loafstone this evening. Did everything on the front face topo except the traverse, and Stoneground. Left arete was quality, although we did it quite differently to Emlyn. In fact, every problem had it's own charm. The scrittle will dissappear as it gains it's deserved popularity.

Stonegroumd felt hard. Managed to get my left hand to the slopey break once, but was too stretched to do anything. Might have to find a new heel toe position for the right foot. Has anyone <5'11"' got any beta?

Can recommend it as a lantern venue. Feels high at the top, but no-one fell off that high so we I can only assume you'd be ok.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9922
  • Karma: +560/-8
I'm about 5'10". The top bit of Stoneground ended up with a match (key thumb pebble for LH I think) and then an inelegant cutloose and campuss to the top out right.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal