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esoteric generic. (Read 4832 times)

milne

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esoteric generic.
March 21, 2012, 07:33:18 pm
not a new problem, i couldnt find a routes re-cleaned forum as im new to this site. just wanted to mention a route at leashaw brow that i spent an hour or so the other night  getting the lichen and dirt off. Esoteric Generic is an E5 6b solo, with a soft but sloping landing. high crux and 8ish meters high. it climbs wonderfully, great sequence and dynamic moves. all hand and foot holds are now clean again, dont think it had seen an ascent in 10+ years, and it would be a shame if it didnt see a bit of highball traffic. cheers, Terry.

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#1 Re: esoteric generic.
March 21, 2012, 07:42:06 pm
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9392.0.html

That'll be the one you want. Good effort. Nice to see these offpiste venues getting attention. Leashaw Brow is pretty cool.

milne

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#2 Re: esoteric generic.
March 21, 2012, 11:24:19 pm
not a new problem, i couldnt find a routes re-cleaned forum as im new to this site. just wanted to mention a route at leashaw brow that i spent an hour or so the other night  getting the lichen and dirt off. Esoteric Generic is an E5 6b solo, with a soft but sloping landing. high crux and 8ish meters high. it climbs wonderfully, great sequence and dynamic moves. all hand and foot holds are now clean again, dont think it had seen an ascent in 10+ years, and it would be a shame if it didnt see a bit of highball traffic. cheers, Terry.

Bonjoy

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#3 Re: esoteric generic.
March 26, 2012, 09:14:40 am
Effort Milne, have always fancied this as a quality obscure highball.

milne

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#4 Re: esoteric generic.
March 26, 2012, 10:44:28 pm
thanks jon, its a race against the ants from now on. it really is worth the effort though.
Terry,

grimer

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#5 Re: esoteric generic.
March 27, 2012, 09:33:17 am
That route looks brilliant, and on good rock. Is there no runners in it?

cheque

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#6 Re: esoteric generic.
March 27, 2012, 09:38:06 am
thanks jon, its a race against the ants from now on.

 :lol: I checked out that crag last year- soloed some route and ended up reversing rather than face a mantle into a writhing ant's nest!

Bonjoy

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#7 Re: esoteric generic.
March 27, 2012, 09:56:40 am
I can still picture the look on Zaf’s face years ago whilst walking into the crag when an ant bit him on the tip of his old man!

milne

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#8 Re: esoteric generic.
March 29, 2012, 01:09:56 am
to grimer, there is a possible side runner in the big crack up, and left at 6mtrs before the crux, but i think this is off route as you kind of deviate away from the seam to reach it, there is a good crimp in the bottom of the crack i noticed, maybe there is a poor offset cam in the seam itself, but i would be amazed if the rock didnt blow apart if you fell on it. a safer way of doing this would be to put a side runner in the E1 to the right, this would be bomber and probably make a good E2/3 6b.

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#9 Re: esoteric generic.
December 09, 2013, 10:07:20 am
Did this yesterday, but don't think I climbed it the way you had in mind Milne. Using everything it seemed more like E3/4 6a. I can see how you could make it E5 6b by being blinkered at the top and avoiding reachable holds but it seems a shame to make an eliminate of it, especially as your high enough not to want to fall off at this point. Nice route though but maybe only worth one star because of the vague top. The highballs at the other end of the crag are well worth doing, MDMA is the hardest of the bunch as a boulder prob and Tour De Nuds is very classy.

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#10 Re: esoteric generic.
December 12, 2013, 08:01:09 pm
Is Tour De Nuds fair at the grade? Any hidden weirdness? In decent nick over winter?

Bonjoy

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#11 Re: esoteric generic.
December 13, 2013, 12:41:14 pm
Yes E3 6a seemed spot on. Maybe bold end of E3 and easy end of 6a. Nice balancy arete moves. The landing is better than I'd expected from the description. MDMA is harder as a solo with burly moves all the way, but the landing is good. White New Yorker felt like E1 5c/6a, the landing is very slopey. The only weirdness I can think of is that something to peg a mat down is useful if you are on your own, I use one of those giant corkscrew things that people clip dog leads to. Generally a safe bet for conditions, think Rivelin.

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#12 Re: esoteric generic.
December 13, 2013, 01:18:12 pm
Thanks Goosejoy, that sounds good. It's part of my Matlock - Amber Valley esoteric classic E3 6a ticklist:

Jelly Ache
Morning Wood
Rainy Day Blues
Streets Ahead
Tour De Nudsville
Marathon Man
Lazy Day

 :)

P.S. I know RDB gets given 5c but I've backed off 3 times and it's fucking nails compared to any 5c and a few 6as I've tried so fuck it.

Bonjoy

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#13 Re: esoteric generic.
December 13, 2013, 07:46:17 pm
Pick a dry spell for Streets Ahead. It's been wet every time i've been there.

 

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