Here’s another collection of new things I’ve done in recent months, plus a couple from Iain Farrar.The Loafstone
- At Curbar I’ve developed the huge boulder below the Not a Jerry Traverse boulder, both of which are below the Lodge. Near Trackside but accessed via a footpath further down the road to avoid crossing any walls. All in all this is a much better block than the NaJT boulder. It’s a pretty massive rock, similar in scale to the Sunset Boulder at Froggatt, with a more normal sized bit on the end. It already has three described things on it in the Froggatt guide (Aldi, Netto, Lidl). The rock is superficially scrittly, but standard Curbar quality after cleaning. Most stuff is clean but a few holds on the easier things could do with a bit more cleaning/traffic. Most probs involve a tricky wall move to a big break and then a very rounded exit (the description of the topout on Aldi in the guide is priceless and gives an idea what’s on offer). Good place for an afternoon of steady highballs (old school E1-E3 solos) above perfect flat landings and very child/picnic friendly. Sheltered from the wind, lot’s of bluebell for now, but lots of bracken soon! The star probs are Bread and Circuses, Sourdough and Pumpernickel
is good too and all the things on the front face, like bread, are nice in a wholesome unspectacular kind of way.
As mentioned on another thread I added a more direct finish to Dreamboat
at Froggatt, at something like 6c. I also climbed the wall just to the left, i.e. gaining the short crack direct. This is called Gravy Boatsman 7a+
. For this grade start low on mono and slopey sidepull (Dreamboat foothold). Taller folk can pull on with higher start holds but this misses some great moves and drops the grade to 7a. I thought this prob was class and at least as good as Dreamboat. Good tenuous moves on slanting slopey rails. The wall just to left will also go and is semi clean (more so than in the topo image) if anyone fancies beating me to it, looks like an upper grade six problem.
Gritlad on Gravy Boatsman
Also at Froggatt Iain Farrar has doen a couple. HMS Bolus 6c
starts on the jug just right of the start of Ape Drape and traverses right to finish up the back prow. Nice moves if rather dabby near the end.
Here’s the info Iain sent me abot the other one – The Captain 7a “…its a really cool prow - about 7A 4 or 5 metres long and i think it should be called "the captain" as it looks a bit like a large bulbous phallus when viewed end on! its about 50m to the right of Stottie, if you walk along the path on the top of Froggatt then go right down a small path about 50m before that boulder with a crack and a polished foothold on it(the one on the left of the path) just drop over the edge by about 10m and walk to the right and you should see it or walk about 50m right from Stottie if you know where that is.... it starts way low and left sharing the very first decent flake and finishes right at the tip then rocks rightwards around the backside. take a brush as it may be a little scrittly still and enjoy...a peak classic in the making...
On Bradley Edge I climbed the right arete of the rightmost bit of natural rock before the quarry, from a kneeling start – Wet Nettle 7b
. Needs a proper sitter really but this will be 7c+/8a I reckon.
In the first bay of Bradley Quarry, the lightning feature up the back wall to escape onto a jug out right is - Wolf in Cheap Clothing 7a
Last and least. During the snowball frenzy I climbed the hanging arete left of the Skinless Wonder start at Apparent North, Chinless Wonder
is about 6c
. I started at the lip, though it would prob start in the main traverse break when there isn’t a drift under it. Not sure if the extra move would add a grade.
**Edit May 15th – Some more additions**
Curbar - LoafstoneBrown and Out 7a
In the back gully between the two blocks. Start low and climb the bulge on chips. FA Emlyn James
FroggattFiddler’s Arete SS 7a
– Starting low on crimps either side of the arete (one is a footer on Gully Dyno).Gentleman’s Wall 6c+
- Across the gully from Fiddler’s is a leaning rippled wall. Climb the centre from a sit start on the boulder.Gentleman’s Left Hand 7a
– Start the same as above but go again with right hand to the crimp and rock left via undercut and pebble.