Author Topic: [Peak][Curbar, Froggatt, Bradley, Stanage][various 5 - 7b]  (Read 3309 times)

Offline Bonjoy

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Here’s another collection of new things I’ve done in recent months, plus a couple from Iain Farrar.

The Loafstone - At Curbar I’ve developed the huge boulder below the Not a Jerry Traverse boulder, both of which are below the Lodge. Near Trackside but accessed via a footpath further down the road to avoid crossing any walls. All in all this is a much better block than the NaJT boulder. It’s a pretty massive rock, similar in scale to the Sunset Boulder at Froggatt, with a more normal sized bit on the end. It already has three described things on it in the Froggatt guide (Aldi, Netto, Lidl). The rock is superficially scrittly, but standard Curbar quality after cleaning. Most stuff is clean but a few holds on the easier things could do with a bit more cleaning/traffic. Most probs involve a tricky wall move to a big break and then a very rounded exit (the description of the topout on Aldi in the guide is priceless and gives an idea what’s on offer). Good place for an afternoon of steady highballs (old school E1-E3 solos) above perfect flat landings and very child/picnic friendly. Sheltered from the wind, lot’s of bluebell for now, but lots of bracken soon! The star probs are Bread and Circuses, Sourdough and Pumpernickel. Stoneground is good too and all the things on the front face, like bread, are nice in a wholesome unspectacular kind of way.







As mentioned on another thread I added a more direct finish to Dreamboat at Froggatt, at something like 6c. I also climbed the wall just to the left, i.e. gaining the short crack direct. This is called Gravy Boatsman 7a+. For this grade start low on mono and slopey sidepull (Dreamboat foothold). Taller folk can pull on with higher start holds but this misses some great moves and drops the grade to 7a. I thought this prob was class and at least as good as Dreamboat. Good tenuous moves on slanting slopey rails. The wall just to left will also go and is semi clean (more so than in the topo image) if anyone fancies beating me to it, looks like an upper grade six problem.

Gritlad on Gravy Boatsman


Topo


Also at Froggatt Iain Farrar has doen a couple. HMS Bolus 6c starts on the jug just right of the start of Ape Drape and traverses right to finish up the back prow. Nice moves if rather dabby near the end.
Here’s the info Iain sent me abot the other one – The Captain 7a “…its a really cool prow - about 7A  4 or 5 metres long and i think it should be called "the captain" as it looks a bit like a large bulbous phallus when viewed end on!  its about 50m to the right of Stottie, if you walk along the path on the top of Froggatt then go right down a small path about 50m before that boulder with a crack and a polished foothold on it(the one on the left of the path) just drop over the edge by about 10m and walk to the right and you should see it or walk about 50m right from Stottie if you know where that is.... it starts way low and left sharing the very first  decent flake and finishes right at the tip then rocks rightwards around the backside. take a brush as it may be a little scrittly still and enjoy...a peak classic in the making...





On Bradley Edge I climbed the right arete of the rightmost bit of natural rock before the quarry, from a kneeling start – Wet Nettle 7b. Needs a proper sitter really but this will be 7c+/8a I reckon.
In the first bay of Bradley Quarry, the lightning feature up the back wall to escape onto a jug out right is - Wolf in Cheap Clothing 7a


Last and least. During the snowball frenzy I climbed the hanging arete left of the Skinless Wonder start at Apparent North, Chinless Wonder is about 6c. I started at the lip, though it would prob start in the main traverse break when there isn’t a drift under it. Not sure if the extra move would add a grade.




**Edit May 15th – Some more additions**
Curbar - Loafstone

Brown and Out 7a In the back gully between the two blocks. Start low and climb the bulge on chips.  FA Emlyn James


Froggatt

Fiddler’s Arete SS 7a – Starting low on crimps either side of the arete (one is a footer on Gully Dyno).

Gentleman’s Wall 6c+ - Across the gully from Fiddler’s is a leaning rippled wall. Climb the centre from a sit start on the boulder.

Gentleman’s Left Hand 7a – Start the same as above but go again with right hand to the crimp and rock left via undercut and pebble.
« Last Edit: May 15, 2013, 10:06:09 am by Bonjoy, Reason: Extra stuff »

Offline Bonjoy

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Re: [Peak][Curbar, Froggatt, Bradley, Stanage][various 5 - 7b]
« Reply #1 on: May 07, 2013, 01:17:38 pm »
Broken links now sorted

Offline SA Chris

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Re: [Peak][Curbar, Froggatt, Bradley, Stanage][various 5 - 7b]
« Reply #2 on: May 07, 2013, 02:16:19 pm »
Focaccia in the Rye - genius.

Looks great.
WARNING! Posting may contain traces of irony, spoonerisms, horse play, sarcasm or other attempts at humour. Not suitable for consumption by foody muckers.

Offline Bonjoy

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Re: [Peak][Curbar, Froggatt, Bradley, Stanage][various 5 - 7b]
« Reply #3 on: May 07, 2013, 02:42:21 pm »
Terrible mix up in the bakery section, the customers weren't happy!



Number 8 should be Pain Rustic (not Pan Rustic).

Offline Johnny Brown

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Re: [Peak][Curbar, Froggatt, Bradley, Stanage][various 5 - 7b]
« Reply #4 on: May 07, 2013, 04:02:55 pm »
Looks good word, keen to check it out!

Offline dave

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Re: [Peak][Curbar, Froggatt, Bradley, Stanage][various 5 - 7b]
« Reply #5 on: May 07, 2013, 04:13:52 pm »
Nice one, I had a look at that curbar boulder last spring but forgot to go back for anything on it - error.
Keep it livid.

Offline Gritlad

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Re: [Peak][Curbar, Froggatt, Bradley, Stanage][various 5 - 7b]
« Reply #6 on: May 07, 2013, 07:01:20 pm »
Nice work bonjoy. Stoneground and bread and circuses look good, as does Iain's froggatt thing!

Offline bolehillbilly

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Re: [Peak][Curbar, Froggatt, Bradley, Stanage][various 5 - 7b]
« Reply #7 on: May 07, 2013, 08:46:30 pm »
Great job on The Loafstone cleaning and climbing effort, inspired problem names too.

(the description of the topout on Aldi in the guide is priceless and gives an idea what’s on offer)
Agree that's a great bit of guidebook writing.

Offline Gritlad

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Re: [Peak][Curbar, Froggatt, Bradley, Stanage][various 5 - 7b]
« Reply #8 on: May 13, 2013, 01:14:24 pm »
Going to check the curbar ones out this evening providing it doesn't tip it down again. Would be cool to have someone else to film/ help clean e.t.c

Offline a dense loner

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Re: [Peak][Curbar, Froggatt, Bradley, Stanage][various 5 - 7b]
« Reply #9 on: May 13, 2013, 01:21:26 pm »
I know it only takes two mins to look but Interweb is terrible here, where's Bradley edge?
theres a lot of big grades goin around at the moment?

Offline Dolly

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Re: [Peak][Curbar, Froggatt, Bradley, Stanage][various 5 - 7b]
« Reply #10 on: May 13, 2013, 03:12:05 pm »
Well done cleaning up Dreamboat Bonjoy.
Went to do it on Saturday but was absolutely mossy green again at the top. Its just a drainage line isn't it ?


The Captain looks great. I had a quick play on it but a) you need 3 mats and b) it needs not to be in the warm spring sun to hang the slopers. Looks like it will be great fun

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Offline Gritlad

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Re: [Peak][Curbar, Froggatt, Bradley, Stanage][various 5 - 7b]
« Reply #11 on: May 13, 2013, 10:08:11 pm »
Went to the curbar boulder today, all the stuff was really good. Did Aldi and 2 or 3 on the front face all really nice.
Bread and Circuses is really class, stern-ish for 7A i though in comparison to other things at curbar, but very nice.
 I added a new thing on the back of the block in a small gully, pull on sat down with a lovely left hand pocket, right hand sidepull and make a tricky dead point to a small slot then a move up to a jug and top out. Nice moves, nice holds, shit looking. Looks dabby but im above 6ft and gangly and it wasn't a issue, worth a look. 7Aish maybe?
 Also tried Stoneground, really nice climbing. I think 7B+ and quite high in the grade although I am bad at squeezing things. Felt harder than Zippys trav, Captain Hook, Brass Monkeys and Monochrome to name a few. Again really good and well worth going back to.
 Very rambley post....
In summary, really really nice place. Got a vid of the first two

Offline Bonjoy

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Re: [Peak][Curbar, Froggatt, Bradley, Stanage][various 5 - 7b]
« Reply #12 on: May 14, 2013, 08:33:30 am »
Cheers yoot. And a vid  :thumbsup: Stoneground took two sessions, but I put that mostly down to trying it the wrong way initially. Might be 7b+, the long move off the pocket is hard. Grades eh  :shrug:


Dolly - I cleaned the direct finish of Dreamboat but not the original finish (there are vids of both versions). I was short on time and it was off the line of my ab rope. Also it sounds like the traverse move on the original is harder than continuing direct. The drainage line has more affect on Breeze and is another good reason to stay left on naturally cleaner rock at the top.
« Last Edit: May 14, 2013, 08:45:21 am by Bonjoy »

Offline Dolly

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Re: [Peak][Curbar, Froggatt, Bradley, Stanage][various 5 - 7b]
« Reply #13 on: May 14, 2013, 08:49:59 am »
Ok Cheers - for some reason I didn't think of going straight up on the much cleaner rock
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Offline r-man

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Re: [Peak][Curbar, Froggatt, Bradley, Stanage][various 5 - 7b]
« Reply #14 on: May 14, 2013, 09:12:57 am »
You can possibly clean the finish of the original by stepping down from the top to the ledge. It's a big juggy ledge though, you'd probably still hold it if was a bit mossy.

Bonjoy, did you try the direct start to your left-hand finish - from right hand in pocket and straight up? I had a brief look at it, but didn't get anywhere. Would be good if possible as it goes straight up the cleanest part of the boulder.

Offline Gritlad

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Re: [Peak][Curbar, Froggatt, Bradley, Stanage][various 5 - 7b]
« Reply #15 on: May 14, 2013, 08:37:54 pm »

Other Curbar Things on Vimeo

Here is the video. Would say "Brown and Out" is better than it looks but that might be a lie....

Offline Bonjoy

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Re: [Peak][Curbar, Froggatt, Bradley, Stanage][various 5 - 7b]
« Reply #16 on: May 15, 2013, 09:50:22 am »
Nice one yoot. That looks like a sensible topout on BnC. I finished on the LHS but it was quite gnarly and probably a bit pointless if there is a steadier way just right.
On Stoneground I matched the break you tried to campus off (useful pebble for a thumb) with heel still in, then went LH to a crimp on the left, then campussed.

Did a couple more things at Froggatt before the rain yesterday. One is a sit start to Fiddler’s Arete at 7a – start low on edges either side of the arete. The other is on the rippled leaning wall on the other side of The Gully. Vaguely reminiscent of nearby Lady’s Wall hence calling it Gentleman’s Wall 6c+ – start sitting on the block, climb the centre of the wall on crimps and slopers. A harder variation Gentleman’s Left Hand 7a – start the same but finish leftward via undercut, crimp and pebble.

Also had a look at The Captain (would have tried but for the rain). Looks good. Easy to locate as it is literally just underneath the boulder called The Frog in both the guides.

Was going to do some more cleaning on the Sunset Boulder but got rained off.

R-man – I had a few goes at doing a low start to Dreamboat i.e. starting matched on the foot ramp. This forces you to do the problem with RH in the pocket. Think it will be a decent hard problem.

Offline masonwoods101

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Re: [Peak][Curbar, Froggatt, Bradley, Stanage][various 5 - 7b]
« Reply #17 on: May 25, 2013, 06:08:47 pm »
Did sourdough from a sit start on the big flake thing today. Right hand to side pull, left hand to the crimp you start on.. Probably done but had a brilliant move on it....
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Offline Bonjoy

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Re: [Peak][Curbar, Froggatt, Bradley, Stanage][various 5 - 7b]
« Reply #18 on: May 26, 2013, 08:55:49 am »
Sorry, I should have mentioned in the description, i started Sourdough matched on the flake. Can't recall if I was actually sat down or, but don't think it would be much different either way. From the flake I crossed to edge then made a long move to the chicken head. I'll try to get round to putting the vid on pb.info.
Did you do any others on there?

Offline masonwoods101

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Re: [Peak][Curbar, Froggatt, Bradley, Stanage][various 5 - 7b]
« Reply #19 on: May 26, 2013, 09:21:53 am »
It's a good long move to the chicken head isn't it... Sit starting it wont have made a difference then hahaha. Bread and circuses is good as well and I topped it out where grit lad did.
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Offline Bonjoy

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Re: [Peak][Curbar, Froggatt, Bradley, Stanage][various 5 - 7b]
« Reply #20 on: May 26, 2013, 09:58:20 am »
Yeah it's a lovely cross and unwind.
Good one. The original finish is fun but a bit contrived in retrospect. At the time I hadn't done the prob just right of BnC so didn't realise it would be easier to finish on the right.

Offline masonwoods101

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Re: [Peak][Curbar, Froggatt, Bradley, Stanage][various 5 - 7b]
« Reply #21 on: May 26, 2013, 10:13:43 am »
Had a try at that roof on the left too but was warm.... Good little micro venue really...
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Offline siwid

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Re: [Peak][Curbar, Froggatt, Bradley, Stanage][various 5 - 7b]
« Reply #22 on: May 26, 2013, 08:45:19 pm »
Had a look at the Loafstone today, great effort on developing it.  Very satisfying to be away from the crowds today on some quality new problems.  Definitely worthy of the attention it needs to keep the scrittle at bay.  Plenty of unfinished business so will be heading back soon.

Tried Gritlad's sit round the back, nice couple of moves, couldn't catch the slot today so another one to go back for.

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Offline old cheese

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Re: [Peak][Curbar, Froggatt, Bradley, Stanage][various 5 - 7b]
« Reply #23 on: June 23, 2013, 01:50:27 pm »
This venue saved what was looking like a shit day for me and worm yesterday cheers mr bonjoy. Your beta on the aręte saw us both get it next go. Good problems on the main wall which just require a steady approach but nowt too hard.

Did that problem of gritlands also after a frustrating time trying to catch the slot. Good moves but as he said, a bit dabby. Felt hard for 7a especially if comparing it to the aręte

Offline Bonjoy

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Re: [Peak][Curbar, Froggatt, Bradley, Stanage][various 5 - 7b]
« Reply #24 on: June 23, 2013, 08:12:05 pm »
Glad you enjoyed. Am I right in saying Worm did Stoneground?
I might having been factoring in the original LH finish in the grade on BnC, haven't done it going right at the top so not sure if it makes much odds. The bottom bit was deffo the crux anyway.