[Duma]

Haha! Enjoyed that, top esoteric perseverance!

[Andy W]

Me and my mate spent a bit of time in Cornwall last week developing/documenting some boulders at Porth Nanven near St Just- worth checking out on a windy day (the sun just doesn't cut it... take a few towels).

Here's a quick vid of the stuff we did:

Nice video and excellent perseverance in the cave. I've looked at that many times and its always, always been wet!

[Duma]

Jonny Kydd has done the sit to Godzilla at Biblins, suggests 8B.
[emoji144]

[PipeSmoke]

Effort ! The project on the far right needs doing as well now

[Hugh]

Nice one Jonny!

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[Duma]

Jonny Kydd has done the sit to Godzilla at Biblins, suggests 8B.
[emoji144]

At the end of this vid (also shows a bunch of other stuff at Biblins):

[Oldmanmatt]

I've been playing on the Saddle tor traverse. Didn't get up last week, but went today and... I can't be sure... but I think... the big jug on the roof has broken more. There's no chalk on the raw rock and it felt smaller (though I was having a "not feeling it day, so...?). Anyone know anything?



Some what annoying as I view that as the last (semi) rest before it got hard. Not today.

Not my tick, either.

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[Duma]

James Squire repeated Mikeys "The Waterman" 8B on the wave at Bonehill last night.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BNc3QYjgbf7/

[J.Kydd]

I've been playing on the Saddle tor traverse. Didn't get up last week, but went today and... I can't be sure... but I think... the big jug on the roof has broken more. There's no chalk on the raw rock and it felt smaller (though I was having a "not feeling it day, so...?). Anyone know anything?

Some what annoying as I view that as the last (semi) rest before it got hard. Not today.

Not my tick, either.

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Yeah, that was me. Post went up about it in the Dartmoor Bouldering FB page.

[Oldmanmatt]

I was up again today, it's broken again. Half pad at most, three fingers.
That's my excuse, I'm sticking to it.[emoji12]

Actually, not sticking to it, slipping off it every time before I can sort my feet out to move through. It'll go if you're stronger than me.


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[BrutusTheBear]

I'm sure it broke again more recently than your breakage JK and it has gone many times previously, an ever evolving hold. It still goes..  Won't be renaming it though...   

Good effort on the first repeat of the Waterman.  Missed us by one evening, we were there the night before.  Mint conditions on the granite at the moment.  The race is on for the first repeat of Peahi, a few suitors are getting close.

OMM You can by-pass that hold on the traverse.

[Oldmanmatt]

I must be going the wrong way then!
Time to review...


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[Oldmanmatt]

Do you mean line 18 on the Javu topo?



Which I took to be Abba Gold (and didn't really read the description, since the standard traverse is a major stretch for me anyway).

Can't imagine anyway off the ledge without the lunge.

Edit:

Probably should have just deleted that, but I'll be honest.
I was working from Grimer's book and should have just looked at the Javu description, which clearly explains the variations.
Think I'll:
A: Keep trying the old way, because it feels like it will go if I get strong enough to lock off that left arm and reach through.

B: Try the Abba Gold into it.


Still plenty of work right of that point for me. This might be my miniature version of Simon and The Oak...

 


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[BrutusTheBear]

Yeah. Line 18 is Abba Gold which goes up at Foals Chopper (the hardest v6 on the planet) then across to eventually finish up Dancing Queen.  The traverse stays low but you can move up earlier than the way you are trying and reach across past the broken hold using a heel toe.  You then keep,going to the arête and up, goes at V10ish.

[shurt]

Foals Chopper (the hardest v6 on the planet)

Grimer gave it V7 in his book. Maybe that's a fairer grade...?

[BrutusTheBear]

V7 is getting closer..  Have you tried it/done it?

[kingholmesy]

V7 is getting closer..  Have you tried it/done it?

The closest I've got is tickling the crimp after you make the 1st big pull.  Surely it's under graded even at V7?

[BrutusTheBear]

   The starting holds were originally bigger which may have made a difference.  When you do get the crimp it's minging.  King of the crimp Alex Waterhouse struggled on it.  It's a great big sandbag..  I have tried it for 12 years to no avail..  grrr.   

[macca7]

Speak to Rob Greenwood he did last week in the rain?

[shurt]

V7 is getting closer..  Have you tried it/done it?

I'd been trying Dancing Queen - no cigar - and then everyone wanted to go as it was too windy (not me I might add). I had a quick bash at the first move and got the slap got a heel on and then fell off. Bit of a half hearted effort but it felt doable. Isn't it all over after you've rocked up and got stood up?

Keen to get back on it when next down there.

[BrutusTheBear]

Speak to Rob Greenwood he did last week in the rain?

  clearly I am crap at this sort of thing Macca, it'll be back to V6 if I ever do it!

[macca7]

I don't think I've ever looked at it and with all this talk of it being hard I won't ve going near it anytime soon!

[macca7]

Being as he's too modest to do it himself, Mr Rainbow bagged the second ascent of a Bovey Woods masterpiece yesterday. Closely followed by Mr Kearney. So well done gents on the 2nd and 3rd ascents respectively of The Jungle Book!

Go get on it people while its clean and conditions are prime!

Take some friends and a few mats and enjoy!

[Duma]

Nice one gents! Looks great, need to finish off DS so I can start trying other stuff in the woods.

[tomrainbow]

Details of some of the new venues that have been developed over the last couple of seasons:


https://tomrainbow99.wordpress.com/2016/12/20/woodland-bouldering-on-dartmoor-the-gift-that-keeps-on-giving/