[macca7]

Cant remember if I mentioned it previously but wet bootie is also unclimbable as the bottom is filled in with rather large rocks another massive loss!

Cheers

Macca

[Steamboat Stello]

This might have slipped under the radar:



I'm not sure what is more impressive, rocking up and snatching these obvious FA's, only having one spotter on "osillations", or apparently climbing 3 days in a row on the moor! Massive respect for all 3. Looking forward to trying and failing on these problems over the winter. Cheers Mike!

[Beastly Squirrel]

Short video of a variant and two link ups at Biblins and Dinas Rock, nothing special and not really south west but good if you're local or want a hard training problem.

[EdGowSmith]

Posted this in non-quality bouldering videos, but posting here as well.
All problems are quality and worth seeking out.

[Oldmanmatt]

I'd tell you you're looking strong Ed, but then GME would tell me I'm hindering your development.....

8A by summer?

'Reckon you got at least 8B before your 18th birthday!

And can we legitimately say the Orange you and Rory set on the Core wall is around 8A as you haven't finished it yet?

Tell Ellis he's damn strong, then ask him why he hasn't manage 8C yet (or 9a) because he's more than capable.

[EdGowSmith]

8A in Font at the end of this month is the plan! 

Yeah that orange is hard, 8A+? 

[Oldmanmatt]

8A in Font at the end of this month is the plan! 

Yeah that orange is hard, 8A+? 

😄

On to glory!

[Andy W]

What are the chances of the purple haze boulder being dry on Sat, does it seep?

[granticus]

What are the chances of the purple haze boulder being dry on Sat, does it seep?

Heh Andy... Shouldn't be a problem with seepage.  Think the problem will be tide and swell on Saturday, with high tide being around the middle of the day and quite a lot of swell running the boulder could get wet.  The good thing is the tides are relatively small.  Good breeze from the SW will dry things out though.  50/50

[Andy W]

What are the chances of the purple haze boulder being dry on Sat, does it seep?

Heh Andy... Shouldn't be a problem with seepage.  Think the problem will be tide and swell on Saturday, with high tide being around the middle of the day and quite a lot of swell running the boulder could get wet.  The good thing is the tides are relatively small.  Good breeze from the SW will dry things out though.  50/50

Yea, high tide at mid-day with a swell, doesn't look that good does it? early or wait for the tide to go out. I've allready lost a shoe down there, with strong gusts forecast, I may lose a pad as well!

[Andy W]

Strange damage/vandalism at Carn Brea

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=602276

[granticus]

Mikey Cleverdon has done THE proper sit down start to Something and Nothing (V8/9) / Catching the Wave (V11) on the Wave boulder at Bonehill.  Was with him last night utilizing the last of the cold conditions for the time being.  His problem starts with your bum on the floor with right hand on a poor undercut and left in hold in break below the starting hold on Catching the Wave (feet on back wall).  It then moves into Catching the Wave, however this forces a different sequence which probably makes the CtW/S&N section harder too.  It's called Peahi.

Anyhow, totally inspiring to witness and I suspect, despite Mikey down playing the grade, that this really could be a contender for the hardest straight up problem on Dartmoor and perhaps the South West. 

[granticus]

More info. here http://javu.co.uk/Climbing/News/index.shtml

[cha1n]

Mikey Cleverdon has done THE proper sit down start to Something and Nothing (V8/9) / Catching the Wave (V11) on the Wave boulder at Bonehill.  Was with him last night utilizing the last of the cold conditions for the time being.  His problem starts with your bum on the floor with right hand on a poor undercut and left in hold in break below the starting hold on Catching the Wave (feet on back wall).  It then moves into Catching the Wave, however this forces a different sequence which probably makes the CtW/S&N section harder too.  It's called Peahi.

Anyhow, totally inspiring to witness and I suspect, despite Mikey down playing the grade, that this really could be a contender for the hardest straight up problem on Dartmoor and perhaps the South West.

So are there 3 problems that take the same line, each separated by 2 moves and that all have different names?

No wonder I always get confused what's what at Bonehill! I remember when I climbed the wave I found out when I got home that I started it one break lower down than it's meant to which explained why it felt harder than V6!

[granticus]

So are there 3 problems that take the same line, each separated by 2 moves and that all have different names?
No wonder I always get confused what's what at Bonehill! I remember when I climbed the wave I found out when I got home that I started it one break lower down than it's meant to which explained why it felt harder than V6!

Fair point...  Soft on the G, Full Power, Ache Ball..  No wonder I always get confused what's what at Gardoms.   

Without detracting from the efforts of the Squirrel and Stretch Adams, (bearing in mind I am commenting from a totally biased position) I believe this line is very significant for this area, (nationally significant even) it was a long term concept and then project for Mikey (continuing to try it whilst others have started it from different positions) and was the obvious 'complete' line direct up the left face of the wave, not wishing to throw too much love at the Pikey... this has all been done having recovered from a stroke, the level of commitment and tenacity is quite inspirational.   Too right, he's gonna give that a name! 

[cha1n]

Yes, not meaning to detract from the achievement.

Probably not a good time to bring up the oddities of naming sit starts to problems, I'm sure it's all been covered before on here?! I'm boring and would just add 'sit' to name of the stand personally but I suppose this is an odd situation where the original 'stand' looks to have started off of a block?

Regardless of all that, great effort and always good to have new problems to try in the South West.

Oh and is there a video of the ascent? Would be a good watch.

[granticus]

Yeah, both 'stands' start off blocks, Stretch's being a higher block than Squirls...  Peahi starts with bum on the ground.

Will be interesting to see how soon/if it gets a repeat and opinions on the grade bearing in mind the high stand was given 7C initially and the lower stand 8a.  (The moves off the floor are not easy and the sequence you're then forced into is harder too). 

Btw The Wave always feels harder than V6, starting from lower is even harder, however start it a few moves over to the left at you will have done Tsunami so it's all good practice! 

[kingholmesy]

Mikey Cleverdon has done THE proper sit down start to Something and Nothing (V8/9) / Catching the Wave (V11) on the Wave boulder at Bonehill.

Waddage!

[granticus]

Mikey Cleverdon has done THE proper sit down start to Something and Nothing (V8/9) / Catching the Wave (V11) on the Wave boulder at Bonehill.

Waddage!

Precisely. 

[Andy W]

nice one Mike!

[Andy W]

And on a less positive note. I went to Clodgy today and  I’m reluctant to say but am pretty certain a hold has been chipped on ‘Boomerang’ 7A+ at Clodgy Point, St Ives. As a first ascentionist and the fact that I’ve climbed this problem many times, familiarity suggests its been chipped. It doesn’t show any evidence that a storm may have have thrown up a rock or waves removed stone. Looking at the photo it appears pretty blatantly intentional, the fact that it makes a perfect hold in just the right place to make the problem easier, suggests some ignorant f..ck has chipped it.

What can one say, not a lot, but there are sure some ignorant fools out bouldering these days. I of course as an old fart blame indoor walls.

[cha1n]

I of course as an old fart blame indoor walls.

I'd be surprised if most of the youths these days even own the tools to chip holds. Of all the problems I've climbed in the past with chipped holds, they all seem to have been chipped a long time ago, implying it's the old farts chipping holds!

(yes I'm bitter because I'm a wall-bred climber)

[granticus]

And on a less positive note. I went to Clodgy today and  I’m reluctant to say but am pretty certain a hold has been chipped on ‘Boomerang’ 7A+ at Clodgy Point, St Ives. As a first ascentionist and the fact that I’ve climbed this problem many times, familiarity suggests its been chipped. It doesn’t show any evidence that a storm may have have thrown up a rock or waves removed stone. Looking at the photo it appears pretty blatantly intentional, the fact that it makes a perfect hold in just the right place to make the problem easier, suggests some ignorant f..ck has chipped it.

What can one say, not a lot, but there are sure some ignorant fools out bouldering these days. I of course as an old fart blame indoor walls.

Boomerang is classic.  That sucks.  So gutting when it happens to your own problems. 

Foothold has got suspiciously larger on Joker and the Thief at Lynmouth, could be storm damage but it would be a one in the million for damage to hit that one tiny spot.  Thought that being in a relative bouldering back water we would avoid some of this shit.

[Andy W]

link to pics here

http://andywhall.com/2015/01/02/boomerang-chipped/

and there was this a few weeks ago related maybe?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=602276

[Oldmanmatt]

And on a less positive note. I went to Clodgy today and  I’m reluctant to say but am pretty certain a hold has been chipped on ‘Boomerang’ 7A+ at Clodgy Point, St Ives. As a first ascentionist and the fact that I’ve climbed this problem many times, familiarity suggests its been chipped. It doesn’t show any evidence that a storm may have have thrown up a rock or waves removed stone. Looking at the photo it appears pretty blatantly intentional, the fact that it makes a perfect hold in just the right place to make the problem easier, suggests some ignorant f..ck has chipped it.

What can one say, not a lot, but there are sure some ignorant fools out bouldering these days. I of course as an old fart blame indoor walls.

Boomerang is classic.  That sucks.  So gutting when it happens to your own problems. 

Foothold has got suspiciously larger on Joker and the Thief at Lynmouth, could be storm damage but it would be a one in the million for damage to hit that one tiny spot.  Thought that being in a relative bouldering back water we would avoid some of this shit.

It's puzzling, as "going equipped to chip" seems pretty strange.
Suggests someone who has been, tried, failed and gone back with intent?

Generally, people have a brush, not a hammer.

Blaming the "yoof" is probably a little simplistic, surely the action of a deluded individual and nothing new?

After all, you don't get to reset a problem at the wall because you can't do it.