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[Nah'han][E8 6c][Gardoms Edge] (Read 6511 times)

Tommy

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[Nah'han][E8 6c][Gardoms Edge]
April 02, 2013, 08:39:22 am
Firstly, I've got to say a big thank you to Jon Fullwood for doing the cleaning on this line - it's sometimes easy to underestimate the work that people put into doing the first session of cleaning on a route, even when it looks pristine. Cheers Jon.

The line takes the front overhanging prow of the Make It Snappy buttress, which creates some really good totally independent slappy prow hugging up the front - kind of like an easier version of Meshuga. Start on the left side of the prow from ground level (hard move overcoming first roof) then some reasonable climbing up to the gear in the mid height break.

From here, there's a proper good sequence of heels, slaps, sloper wrestling and even a sketchy kneebar..... all to deposit you at a crux final move. I've graded it E8 6c as I wasn't sure about whether you'd spin off missing this last slap and hit the ledge down left and the 2 moves after aren't exactly a path, which you'd deffo not want to cock up. If someone can have the misfortune to fall of here, please let me know if it was 7 or 8!

Took a basic video so will try and get up on blog some time this week.

I did this yesterday (Pete W did the second ascent) and am fairly chuffed with it as he thought it was one of the best routes he'd done like that.

nik at work

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#1 Re: [Nah'han][E8 6c][Gardoms Edge]
April 02, 2013, 08:44:07 am
Nice one Tom, sounds splendid.

dave

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#2 [Nah'han][E8 6c][Gardoms Edge]
April 02, 2013, 09:01:45 am
Is this sort of just left of MIS then? Good effort.

Tommy

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#3 Re: [Nah'han][E8 6c][Gardoms Edge]
April 02, 2013, 09:10:56 am
Dave, yeah that's right. The only downside is that it's one of those "climb the other side of the prow, where an already excellent route goes" jobs........... but the climbing is so bloomin good and independent that you overlook it. It's nice also, because it starts right from ground level, so you get a good bit of climbing done down lower as well.

I think I have a photo of line on my phone, so will see if I can get it on twitter.

Bonjoy

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#4 Re: [Nah'han][E8 6c][Gardoms Edge]
April 03, 2013, 08:40:32 am
Good effort Tom! I thought it would probably weight in at E8 6c.
This is a really brilliant climb IMO. The sequence is superb and it’s a strong line. I think the main reason it’s not been snapped up years ago is that you can’t don’t really get a good view of it from anywhere on the crag or below (you’d need a helicopter photo to do it justice). Once you do the move away from the gear you are fully committed to the front of the feature. Sometime ‘the other side of the arete’ is the true classic, check out the cover of the Stanage guide!

andy popp

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#5 Re: [Nah'han][E8 6c][Gardoms Edge]
April 03, 2013, 08:46:56 am
Hidden in plain sight! It never occured to me despite visiting that buttress a number of times and climbing MiS.

shark

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T_B

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#7 Re: [Nah'han][E8 6c][Gardoms Edge]
April 03, 2013, 02:49:18 pm
Sounds great - am intrigued as I can't picture it at all. I seem to remember MiS is pretty huggy at the start, then you pull right onto a big hold. Does this share some of the same holds at the start and then pull left or something?

Bonjoy

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#8 Re: [Nah'han][E8 6c][Gardoms Edge]
April 03, 2013, 03:01:20 pm
MiS starts up on the right, near the start of Crocodile, steps left onto the front, places gear and makes one or two moves up, including its crux move to get a LH hold allowing you to swing onto the RHS of the feature. Tommy’s route gains these moves direct from the foot of the crag, about 5m below start of MiS, shares the moves and gear on the front of the pillar but reaches a different hold off the MiS crux (assuming he did the same sequence I figured out), then does a whole load of independent techy fridge hugging up the front.

T_B

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#9 Re: [Nah'han][E8 6c][Gardoms Edge]
April 03, 2013, 03:06:47 pm
Ah, right. I remember coming in from the right now. Then you sort out a baby bouncer before the really cool sequence to get the big hold up and right. If there's no gear above the baby bouncer and it's hard up high I can well imagine it being E8. I took the plunge on MiS and seem to remember not being that far off the deck..

andy popp

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#10 Re: [Nah'han][E8 6c][Gardoms Edge]
April 03, 2013, 04:49:01 pm
OT, but has anyone done Ecky Thump?

GCW

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#11 Re: [Nah'han][E8 6c][Gardoms Edge]
April 03, 2013, 05:10:11 pm

SA Chris

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#12 Re: [Nah'han][E8 6c][Gardoms Edge]
April 03, 2013, 05:30:35 pm
What does the name mean, am I missing something obvious?

slackline

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#13 Re: [Nah'han][E8 6c][Gardoms Edge]
April 03, 2013, 05:37:48 pm
What does the name mean, am I missing something obvious?

Two lines to the right of Make it Snappy.

Or if you mean Nah'han it could come from Toms young kid who named the last route (recall Tom and Bonjoy talking about this method for naming routes, can't find the thread).

andy_e

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#14 Re: [Nah'han][E8 6c][Gardoms Edge]
April 03, 2013, 08:37:46 pm
I'm guessing Tom's young kid is called Hannah.

Tommy

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#15 Re: [Nah'han][E8 6c][Gardoms Edge]
April 03, 2013, 09:34:51 pm
I'm guessing Tom's young kid is called Hannah.

Good deduction skills Andy  ;)

I did Make it Snappy yesterday (think I can only claim an unethical flash as I'd held the other side the arete already :) )just to compare and see how that climbed. Boldness-wise was quite a bit less and the top move is quite steady and your feet quite low still, where as on Nah'han you're still making a proper 6a moves when you're in the no fall zone (above the level of where MiS gets easy) and after the hard crux slap. If you were a bit mad you could always steadily fall off from a bit higher up each time, but rather you than me! It may settle at hard E7 if someone can find out what happens....

Sequence for my route (mainly for you Jon, as you know the moves!) was at the last bit of gear make a hard slap off the break off a sharp little crimp with left hand and into to ok climbing. Then those monkey on stick moves and finally off that very slopey left hand at top make a slap up right to hit sloper break/pinch on arete (I did it both ways when working). I never used any holds on MiS other than the fact that I was holding the other side of the arete at the top. Make sense hopefully?!   

I've got a basic photo to show the line I can post later when I get home.

 

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