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[The Soft Parade][E6 6b][Hallmoor Quarry] (Read 4681 times)

Tommy

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[The Soft Parade][E6 6b][Hallmoor Quarry]
March 16, 2013, 11:11:09 pm
Takes the obvious very thin crack line on the wall to the left of "The Illustrious Scut" at Hallmoor Quarry. Bit sandy down at the bottom, like most Hallmoor routes, but the climbing is nice and beefy, really pumpy and has an easy version of the Cobra Crack move. Bring lots of RPs/super-light rocks.... Fun huh?

I've got a short video clip of Oli Grounsell in the crux section that I'll try and post up so you can get the idea of what the route's like. Overhanging, so mostly stays dry in the wet (apart from last 2 moves??). There's a pre-placed "top-out" rope that I've left so you don't have to do a hideous scramble up a loose 45 deg earth slope to finish.

FA. Randall. 2nd ascent Whittaker.


 

Tom de Gay

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Nice one. Hallmoor Quarry – home of the king lines.

nik at work

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Nice one Tom, can't keep away from the cracks can you...

Tommy

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As promised a quick illustrative video of Oli G on the route. Apologies for the utter shitness of the quality.... gives you an idea anyway.




Hmmmm.... haven't done a very good job of embedding that. Link seems to work anyway.

Edit: whoop, whoop. Doh. Done it.... 

scottygillery

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oh the suspense! did that little lad manage the route?

Wood FT

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Ha ha, good vid, proper gassing. Looks a great feature

Wil

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This and Speak the Truth are both snow free and dry at the moment. Probably the best time get on them before the spring growth starts!

El Mocho

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Did this yesterday - really enjoyed it (unlike the E1 warm up which turned into a real bramble battle at the top...)

Lovely and dry, well chalked and the brambles are all dead at the moment meaning the approach and base of crag is relatively nice. The insitu rope at the top is a lot better than the death slope. I also (at least I think from looking at the chalk in the vid) went a slightly cheeky way at the top reaching the right (or left in mirror vid) arete - it was really good this way and missed out what could have been a last hard pull.

I combined the day with an extra 15min drive to The Great Tribulation the Bonjoy E6 finger crack on the Lime which means you can get a full crack fix. Unfortunately TGT was wet at the start and hard at the end but should dry pretty soon.

Tommy

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Nice one! Glad you enjoyed it. Correct about the move at the top - Pete reached the arete, where I'd been a dunce and pulled straight through.

GT is excellent as well, and I think you missed one..... Our Forte, at Stanton Moor!! Those 3 in a day, would be a seriously manly day.  :)


 

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