[highrepute]

Hoping to get away for a week sport climbing at the end of May. Looking for some useful tips on where to go. I've heard ceuse is nice and quite then but I'm looking to explore places I've not been. And that Rodellar might be a bit damp from the winter still, I'd be keen on here otherwise - anyone any actual experience of end of may conditions?

Could anyone suggest any alternatives?

[abarro81]

All depends on the year. Rodellar could be perfect (though still hot) or could be drenched. If you went and it was screwed you'd have to bail to somewhere like the shady sectors at margalef.
I suspect Tarn area might well be nice then. Alternatively St Leger could well be good (in the shade) though again it depends on the year as there's lots of tufas.

[highrepute]

cheers Alex. I was thinking about Tarn and now you've thrown Leger into the mix. I think I'd prefer france over spain

[TobyD]

I think I'd prefer france over spain

Ceuse can be amazing around May.

The Ariege? (not been looks great)

Many of the gorge du loup / alpes maritimes crags.

Russan?

The Verdon?

[hongkongstuey]

thinking of Buoux or Leger for mid-to-late May (think its the week of 11-19th that the misses is rostered off) and possibly looking for partners as my main option has bailed (moving flat) and the back up plan is about a flakey as they come and i won't trust him till i see scanned copies of his flight tickets from Canada...

[north_country_boy]

thinking of Buoux or Leger for mid-to-late May (think its the week of 11-19th that the misses is rostered off) and possibly looking for partners as my main option has bailed (moving flat) and the back up plan is about a flakey as they come and i won't trust him till i see scanned copies of his flight tickets from Canada...

Make sure you pack the sun tan lotion! Both will be baking by the end of March onwards...

There is shade available at both, but not stacks...and very much depends on what grade you climb at...(ideally 7b>) at St.Leger to make use of the shade...

[highrepute]

Looks like we've settled on Gorge du Tarn for our trip.

thinking of Buoux or Leger for mid-to-late May (think its the week of 11-19th that the misses is rostered off) and possibly looking for partners as my main option has bailed (moving flat) and the back up plan is about a flakey as they come and i won't trust him till i see scanned copies of his flight tickets from Canada...

we're currently looking like we'll be a 3 so you can always join us. 24 may til 2 june.

went Buoux last Oct thinking it might be cool enough by then but it was way way too hot. plenty of crags in the nearby area that'd keep you busy.

[hongkongstuey]

cheers for the feedback - will be coming from the start of a HK summer so anything in Europe will feel nice and cool in comparison, although may look more towards Ceuse based on the feedback so far...

@highrepute: the misses leave is locked in by her work so dates are fixed in mid-May unfortunately - have a great trip to the Tarn

[SA Chris]

the back up plan is about a flakey as they come and i won't trust him till i see scanned copies of his flight tickets from Canada...

Wonder who that might be?

[Fultonius]

Finale Ligure?

[Paul B]

went Buoux last Oct thinking it might be cool enough by then but it was way way too hot. plenty of crags in the nearby area that'd keep you busy.

I concur although when the Mistral did blow things were icy!

[highrepute]

went Buoux last Oct thinking it might be cool enough by then but it was way way too hot. plenty of crags in the nearby area that'd keep you busy.

I concur although when the Mistral did blow things were icy!

Enjoyed you article by the way. Made me want to go back. J'aime Buoux!

[Paul B]

Thank you, there were a few very helpful members of this site (+ Zippy) that filled me in on some history (some of which was quite frankly hilarious but not suitable for print).

[Rocksteady]

I have some time off to climb in the last week of May this year.

Some suggestions mooted all in Spain: Chulilla, Margalef, Rodellar, Siurana. I am wondering whether any/all of these would be too hot to be enjoyable?

Don't mind a bit of warmth but greasy/impossible due to heat is never that fun.

Cheap flights would be a plus.

Cheers.

R

[Ged]

Ceuse will be mint and quiet.

Siurana will be pretty warm I would have thought.

[csl]

I think only Rodellar out of that list would be a good idea at the end of May...

As Ged mentioned, Ceuse can be great then without any queues. Also heard Gorge Du Tarn is a good one for early summer, but not been.

[jwi]

Can I get a grade range? Pic Saint Loup should be mint, if you're looking mostly at above 8b

If dry, the new sectors on the left bank of Verdon should be in play. + Duc, which is amazing.

Sector Baleine @ St Léger if you climb 7c and up, or 7b and up and are fine with climbing good but not good looking lines. I think St Léger is fairly dry already, but I can ask a mate who went there last week.

May is probably the best month for Gorges du Tarn, but nothing really good/inspiring above 8b. (Not a problem for me...)

Ariège should be fine in May, at least for some of the hard sectors.

Bielsa is in Spain, but just 10km across the border. I saw on facebook that Les Devotas was dry last week, so Devotas, Superdevotas and Foz de la Canal should all be in play.

For Spain it might make sense to figure out if the tufa-sectors around Hermidas are dry.

[Rocksteady]

Thanks for the replies and the recommendations. I'm a 7b-7c redpointer, my brother who I'm going with up to 8b, probs 8a on a short trip. I like routes in the 6s to warm up on ideally though!

[Ged]

Ceuse has some of the best 6b and 6c you'll ever do to warm up on, and some of the best 7b and 7c you'll ever do to redpoint!

[jwi]

Thanks for the replies and the recommendations. I'm a 7b-7c redpointer, my brother who I'm going with up to 8b, probs 8a on a short trip. I like routes in the 6s to warm up on ideally though!

Gorges du Tarn sounds ideal. Good temps in the shade, long days if you combine sectors. Lots of good 6s and 7s and plenty of good 8a-8bs as well. Pack a 80m+ rope (preferably a 100m) and around twenty draws, three of them tripled. The drawback is that it is not evident how to find cheap accommodation.

[TobyD]

Thanks for the replies and the recommendations. I'm a 7b-7c redpointer, my brother who I'm going with up to 8b, probs 8a on a short trip. I like routes in the 6s to warm up on ideally though!

Gorges du Tarn sounds ideal. Good temps in the shade, long days if you combine sectors. Lots of good 6s and 7s and plenty of good 8a-8bs as well. Pack a 80m+ rope (preferably a 100m) and around twenty draws...

I agree, GDT is possibly my favourite sport area in Europe for the trip as a whole. I've barely done a mediocre, let alone bad route there, from 6a-8a. Brilliant for OS or quick redpoint. I've never taken more than a 70m rope, and really not felt too limited. Obviously you should check lengths and existence of mid height belay etc. Tiny bit of faff, but I usually appreciate the extra rest time if on 40m pitches! Re accommodation: end of may will be a bit expensive, it's cheap for very plush gites in the off season (October). Camping is not ruinous IIRC, or you can get a gite down near Millau.

[Will Hunt]

Curveball: go to Mallorca and do some DWS?

[Stabbsy]

Thanks for the replies and the recommendations. I'm a 7b-7c redpointer, my brother who I'm going with up to 8b, probs 8a on a short trip. I like routes in the 6s to warm up on ideally though!

Gorges du Tarn sounds ideal. Good temps in the shade, long days if you combine sectors. Lots of good 6s and 7s and plenty of good 8a-8bs as well. Pack a 80m+ rope (preferably a 100m) and around twenty draws...

I agree, GDT is possibly my favourite sport area in Europe for the trip as a whole. I've barely done a mediocre, let alone bad route there, from 6a-8a. Brilliant for OS or quick redpoint. I've never taken more than a 70m rope, and really not felt too limited. Obviously you should check lengths and existence of mid height belay etc. Tiny bit of faff, but I usually appreciate the extra rest time if on 40m pitches! Re accommodation: end of may will be a bit expensive, it's cheap for very plush gites in the off season (October). Camping is not ruinous IIRC, or you can get a gite down near Millau.

Apologies for a slight thread hijack, but anyone got a view on Gorges du Tarn as a September venue? Too hot still or might it have cooled down enough? It might be a good compromise between climbing and a "proper" holiday.

[T_B]

I've only been once, in the last 2 weeks of August. Some of the south-facing crags are out come mid-morning, but there's plenty to do in the shade. The holds are generally pretty good, even on the harder stuff. Having a siesta by the river is very pleasant. I'd check whether the campsites are open though, they were very empty by the last week of August and at Camping Blaquiere it felt like they were about to close.

[RichK]

 Rodellar is pretty dry now ....gran boveda routes all getting climbed last weekend.
Apparently Bielsa crags also dry.

Tarn is amazing in May.  The campsite just out of Les Vignes towards the climbing will be open.

[Rocksteady]

Thanks all, very glad I resurrected this thread. Gorges du Tarn it is!

[jwi]

I'd check whether the campsites are open though, they were very empty by the last week of August and at Camping Blaquiere it felt like they were about to close.

The campsite Terrados (in Les Vignes, on the other side of the river) has been open for three weeks. In May the one between Les Vignes and the climbing will be open, pretty sure it will be open in September as well (friend of a friend will work there May - September so I presume it'll be open the entire time). Terrados is open until mid-late october depending on weather.