Author Topic: Recommend me a holiday 8b?  (Read 2084 times)

Offline Ally Smith

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Recommend me a holiday 8b?
« on: January 31, 2013, 05:06:46 pm »
I've booked a week off work to go to the Lleida area at Easter and I'm now thinking about suitable opbjectives.

On the last couple of trips away i've managed fairly fast ascents of 8a+'s (1 or 2 sessions) and i'm now thinking it might be time to look for soft 8b to get stuck into.

We'll be staying just outside of Tremp, so will be close to Terredets and not too far to Oliana, Santa Linya, Tres Ponts, etc

I'm fairly open to ideas, but have a few preferences;
Long over short
Tufa over crimp
Stamina over cruxy

I've tried Golpe de Gas at Terredets and although the lower wall seemed fine, i'm not too keen on it as it has a heart break final boulder problem!

Offline jwi

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Re: Recommend me a holiday 8b?
« Reply #1 on: January 31, 2013, 05:29:33 pm »
I have no input, but will follow this topic with great interest!
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Offline Tommy

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Re: Recommend me a holiday 8b?
« Reply #2 on: January 31, 2013, 05:43:05 pm »
There is ONLY one route for you Ally! Traverse of the Gladiators at Santa Linya. The line of the cave, massive rising break that crossed through the ceiling of the whole cave and one that only dirty Brits seem to like. Just ask Gaz Parry....

It's got steep tufa to start, then massive jugs, a lie down rest, then a cruxy boulder, then an exposed niche, then another crux move on big holds, then 10 knee bars in a row, then another crux at the end! About 45m long??

If you want predictable, then Ruta del Sol?

injury better?

Offline andyd

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Re: Recommend me a holiday 8b?
« Reply #3 on: January 31, 2013, 06:01:21 pm »
Did you just get excited with a route that doesn't involve any jamming? No cracks? Are you OK?

Offline abarro81

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Re: Recommend me a holiday 8b?
« Reply #4 on: January 31, 2013, 09:12:16 pm »
It's one giant crack really

Offline Fiend

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Re: Recommend me a holiday 8b?
« Reply #5 on: January 31, 2013, 09:19:48 pm »
Careful Tommy that almost sounded like an exciting and inspiring route in it's own right, rather than just a soft touch number chase just to get the grade!
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Offline JohnM

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Re: Recommend me a holiday 8b?
« Reply #6 on: January 31, 2013, 10:56:14 pm »
We need to visit another crag this year Ally.  I have done everything I want to do at Bruixes apart from L'Anarkista.  You should try one of the 8a+s at the right hand side of La Pedrera (Mascaxapes).  I guarantee you won't be doing them too quickly!

Offline Tommy

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Re: Recommend me a holiday 8b?
« Reply #7 on: January 31, 2013, 11:50:24 pm »
Did you just get excited with a route that doesn't involve any jamming? No cracks? Are you OK?

There is a crack, but I didn't want to mention it as Ally would know I'm still up to my old tricks. Seriously though.... Barrows hasn't done it, so surely it must a be a good route i.e. one that can't be cheated.

Ally, I'm nearly 92% sure you'd do it in less than 4 sessions.  :)

Offline Paul B

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Re: Recommend me a holiday 8b?
« Reply #8 on: January 31, 2013, 11:58:55 pm »
Barrows hasn't done it, so surely it must be a good route i.e. one that can't be cheated. not have two extensions and an alternative start.

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Offline petejh

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Re: Recommend me a holiday 8b?
« Reply #9 on: February 03, 2013, 06:46:03 pm »
..
It's got steep tufa to start, then massive jugs, a lie down rest, then a cruxy boulder, then an exposed niche, then another crux move on big holds, then 10 knee bars in a row, then another crux at the end! About 45m long??
..

This has got to be the route of your perverse climbing dreams!

Melancholie should be dry

Offline TobyD

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Re: Recommend me a holiday 8b?
« Reply #10 on: March 06, 2013, 02:40:35 pm »
Thread hijack....

Holiday 8b (or 8a+) in Siurana area? Crimpy, sustained stamina routes suit me best.

Anyone on here done Ramadan?
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Offline JacobJacob

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Re: Recommend me a holiday 8b?
« Reply #11 on: March 06, 2013, 03:35:31 pm »
Hey Toby :great:. Ramadan or Zona 0 are both great.

Ramadan: Easy to a hardish (v6?) crux then sustained 7c+ish to the top. The crux has one very sharp hold, but if you're careful you can avoid pulling on it too much.

Zona 0: The better of the two routes for sure although slightly harder, probably comparable to the Groove at Malham in terms of difficulty. 7b+ish to a medium rest then a crux (v5?) to a sustained headwall, then you get to a massive jug where you can recover a lot, then just a final boulder round a little roof which you shouldn't be off but could be.

Pati pa mi is also supposed to be good just to the right of Zona 0 but I havn't been on it.

Offline JohnM

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Re: Recommend me a holiday 8b?
« Reply #12 on: March 06, 2013, 03:59:17 pm »
When are you going to be out there Toby?  I am keen get back on Zona 0 it's a class route.  I found the finish nails but I may have been doing it wrong and I was suffering from some heinous man flu at the time.

Any recommendations for an 8b in the Lleida region that isn't at Santa Linya and isn't Golpe de Gas?

Offline Ally Smith

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Re: Recommend me a holiday 8b?
« Reply #13 on: March 06, 2013, 05:25:14 pm »
I've thought about trying La Marroncita at Oliana whilst JohnM is hanging off Fish Eye.

Anyone have any experience? Obviously asking about the 2nd half, not the f7a bit to the 1st lower off.

John - if you want a day back at El Pati; i'm keen to finish off La Cara Que No Miente?

Offline TobyD

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Re: Recommend me a holiday 8b?
« Reply #14 on: March 06, 2013, 11:17:35 pm »
Hey Toby :great:. Ramadan or Zona 0 are both great.

cheers JJ. Ramadan looks amazing but nails from the vid on youtube!
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Offline TobyD

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Re: Recommend me a holiday 8b?
« Reply #15 on: March 06, 2013, 11:19:26 pm »
When are you going to be out there Toby?  I am keen get back on Zona 0 it's a class route.
Any recommendations for an 8b in the Lleida region that isn't at Santa Linya and isn't Golpe de Gas?

17th - 31st March. You out there same time?

only tried anarchista, which is 8a+ anyway?
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Offline JohnM

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Re: Recommend me a holiday 8b?
« Reply #16 on: March 07, 2013, 10:11:38 am »
So are we doing the commute to Oliana Ally!?  That La Marroncita looks really good.  Big moves on big holds...smash it in!

Offline TobyD

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Re: Recommend me a holiday 8b?
« Reply #17 on: April 01, 2013, 10:39:45 pm »
Ramadan: Easy to a hardish (v6?) crux then sustained 7c+ish to the top. The crux has one very sharp hold, but if you're careful you can avoid pulling on it too much.

Zona 0: The better of the two routes for sure although slightly harder, probably comparable to the Groove at Malham in terms of difficulty. 7b+ish to a medium rest then a crux (v5?) to a sustained headwall, then you get to a massive jug where you can recover a lot, then just a final boulder round a little roof which you shouldn't be off but could be.

my thoughts having been on (but not done yet) both routes. i don't know which hold you thought especially sharp on ramadan, i thought it was only a bit worse than average for siurana as far as savaging your skin goes. i thought the crux harder than v6, but the rest of it easier than 7c+, but i suppose it depends where you think the crux ends!

zona zero is also amazing, will probably go more easily for me (more endurancey, not as hard on the crux) this one does have a nasty hold (especially for your left index finger pad) which you can miss out if you are as lanky as jacob ;-) the finish is a bit morpho and wierd, and i thought very fluffable. (but also an amazing move)
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Offline Ged

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Re: Recommend me a holiday 8b?
« Reply #18 on: September 16, 2013, 02:54:20 pm »
So hypot6hetically, if somebody was going to siurana for a short trip and wanted a good stab at doing Zona 0, would you be advising them to get fit as a butchers dog, or bouldering strong, or an annoying bit of both?

Offline JohnM

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Re: Recommend me a holiday 8b?
« Reply #19 on: September 16, 2013, 03:18:33 pm »
Get tough skin!  I wouldn't say you have to be uber fit for this route.  Strong fingers and good conditions help and you skin will go before your power goes.  Nailing down a good sequence for the top bulge is important (NB I haven't done the route!).

Offline jwi

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Re: Recommend me a holiday 8b?
« Reply #20 on: September 16, 2013, 08:51:50 pm »
So hypot6hetically, if somebody was going to siurana for a short trip and wanted a good stab at doing Zona 0, would you be advising them to get fit as a butchers dog, or bouldering strong, or an annoying bit of both?

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Offline TobyD

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Re: Recommend me a holiday 8b?
« Reply #21 on: September 28, 2013, 10:46:22 pm »
Get tough skin!  I wouldn't say you have to be uber fit for this route.  Strong fingers and good conditions help and you skin will go before your power goes.  Nailing down a good sequence for the top bulge is important (NB I haven't done the route!).

 :agree: not desperately hard or desperately pumpy  - short, fingery power endurance between decent shakes.
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Offline DanD

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Re: Recommend me a holiday 8b?
« Reply #22 on: September 30, 2013, 11:13:21 am »
So hypot6hetically, if somebody was going to siurana for a short trip and wanted a good stab at doing Zona 0, would you be advising them to get fit as a butchers dog, or bouldering strong, or an annoying bit of both?


Basically anyone going to Siurana for a short trip won't get up anything unless they learn how to make a proper cup of coffee.
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