Fuck me, I have a five month backlog of watching Fiend dressed as a camp Serbian paramilitary climbing choss in Dundee. YYFY.
Did you just get excited with a route that doesn't involve any jamming? No cracks? Are you OK?
Barrows hasn't done it, so surely it must be a good route i.e. one that can't be cheated. not have two extensions and an alternative start.
..It's got steep tufa to start, then massive jugs, a lie down rest, then a cruxy boulder, then an exposed niche, then another crux move on big holds, then 10 knee bars in a row, then another crux at the end! About 45m long?? ..
Hey Toby . Ramadan or Zona 0 are both great.
When are you going to be out there Toby? I am keen get back on Zona 0 it's a class route. Any recommendations for an 8b in the Lleida region that isn't at Santa Linya and isn't Golpe de Gas?
Ramadan: Easy to a hardish (v6?) crux then sustained 7c+ish to the top. The crux has one very sharp hold, but if you're careful you can avoid pulling on it too much.Zona 0: The better of the two routes for sure although slightly harder, probably comparable to the Groove at Malham in terms of difficulty. 7b+ish to a medium rest then a crux (v5?) to a sustained headwall, then you get to a massive jug where you can recover a lot, then just a final boulder round a little roof which you shouldn't be off but could be.
So hypot6hetically, if somebody was going to siurana for a short trip and wanted a good stab at doing Zona 0, would you be advising them to get fit as a butchers dog, or bouldering strong, or an annoying bit of both?
Get tough skin! I wouldn't say you have to be uber fit for this route. Strong fingers and good conditions help and you skin will go before your power goes. Nailing down a good sequence for the top bulge is important (NB I haven't done the route!).
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