Recommend me a holiday 8b?

[Ally Smith]

I've booked a week off work to go to the Lleida area at Easter and I'm now thinking about suitable opbjectives.

On the last couple of trips away i've managed fairly fast ascents of 8a+'s (1 or 2 sessions) and i'm now thinking it might be time to look for soft 8b to get stuck into.

We'll be staying just outside of Tremp, so will be close to Terredets and not too far to Oliana, Santa Linya, Tres Ponts, etc

I'm fairly open to ideas, but have a few preferences;
Long over short
Tufa over crimp
Stamina over cruxy

I've tried Golpe de Gas at Terredets and although the lower wall seemed fine, i'm not too keen on it as it has a heart break final boulder problem!

[jwi]

I have no input, but will follow this topic with great interest!

[Tommy]

There is ONLY one route for you Ally! Traverse of the Gladiators at Santa Linya. The line of the cave, massive rising break that crossed through the ceiling of the whole cave and one that only dirty Brits seem to like. Just ask Gaz Parry....

It's got steep tufa to start, then massive jugs, a lie down rest, then a cruxy boulder, then an exposed niche, then another crux move on big holds, then 10 knee bars in a row, then another crux at the end! About 45m long??

If you want predictable, then Ruta del Sol?

injury better?

[andyd]

Did you just get excited with a route that doesn't involve any jamming? No cracks? Are you OK?

[abarro81]

It's one giant crack really

[Fiend]

Careful Tommy that almost sounded like an exciting and inspiring route in it's own right, rather than just a soft touch number chase just to get the grade!

[JohnM]

We need to visit another crag this year Ally.  I have done everything I want to do at Bruixes apart from L'Anarkista.  You should try one of the 8a+s at the right hand side of La Pedrera (Mascaxapes).  I guarantee you won't be doing them too quickly!

[Tommy]

Did you just get excited with a route that doesn't involve any jamming? No cracks? Are you OK?

There is a crack, but I didn't want to mention it as Ally would know I'm still up to my old tricks. Seriously though.... Barrows hasn't done it, so surely it must a be a good route i.e. one that can't be cheated.

Ally, I'm nearly 92% sure you'd do it in less than 4 sessions. 

[Paul B]

Barrows hasn't done it, so surely it must be a good route i.e. one that can't be cheated. not have two extensions and an alternative start.

CAB

[petejh]

..
It's got steep tufa to start, then massive jugs, a lie down rest, then a cruxy boulder, then an exposed niche, then another crux move on big holds, then 10 knee bars in a row, then another crux at the end! About 45m long??
..

This has got to be the route of your perverse climbing dreams!

Melancholie should be dry

[TobyD]

Thread hijack....

Holiday 8b (or 8a+) in Siurana area? Crimpy, sustained stamina routes suit me best.

Anyone on here done Ramadan?

[JacobJacob]

Hey Toby . Ramadan or Zona 0 are both great.

Ramadan: Easy to a hardish (v6?) crux then sustained 7c+ish to the top. The crux has one very sharp hold, but if you're careful you can avoid pulling on it too much.

Zona 0: The better of the two routes for sure although slightly harder, probably comparable to the Groove at Malham in terms of difficulty. 7b+ish to a medium rest then a crux (v5?) to a sustained headwall, then you get to a massive jug where you can recover a lot, then just a final boulder round a little roof which you shouldn't be off but could be.

Pati pa mi is also supposed to be good just to the right of Zona 0 but I havn't been on it.

[JohnM]

When are you going to be out there Toby?  I am keen get back on Zona 0 it's a class route.  I found the finish nails but I may have been doing it wrong and I was suffering from some heinous man flu at the time.

Any recommendations for an 8b in the Lleida region that isn't at Santa Linya and isn't Golpe de Gas?

[Ally Smith]

I've thought about trying La Marroncita at Oliana whilst JohnM is hanging off Fish Eye.

Anyone have any experience? Obviously asking about the 2nd half, not the f7a bit to the 1st lower off.

John - if you want a day back at El Pati; i'm keen to finish off La Cara Que No Miente?

[TobyD]

Hey Toby . Ramadan or Zona 0 are both great.

cheers JJ. Ramadan looks amazing but nails from the vid on youtube!

[TobyD]

When are you going to be out there Toby?  I am keen get back on Zona 0 it's a class route.
Any recommendations for an 8b in the Lleida region that isn't at Santa Linya and isn't Golpe de Gas?

17th - 31st March. You out there same time?

only tried anarchista, which is 8a+ anyway?

[JohnM]

So are we doing the commute to Oliana Ally!?  That La Marroncita looks really good.  Big moves on big holds...smash it in!

[TobyD]

Ramadan: Easy to a hardish (v6?) crux then sustained 7c+ish to the top. The crux has one very sharp hold, but if you're careful you can avoid pulling on it too much.

Zona 0: The better of the two routes for sure although slightly harder, probably comparable to the Groove at Malham in terms of difficulty. 7b+ish to a medium rest then a crux (v5?) to a sustained headwall, then you get to a massive jug where you can recover a lot, then just a final boulder round a little roof which you shouldn't be off but could be.

my thoughts having been on (but not done yet) both routes. i don't know which hold you thought especially sharp on ramadan, i thought it was only a bit worse than average for siurana as far as savaging your skin goes. i thought the crux harder than v6, but the rest of it easier than 7c+, but i suppose it depends where you think the crux ends!

zona zero is also amazing, will probably go more easily for me (more endurancey, not as hard on the crux) this one does have a nasty hold (especially for your left index finger pad) which you can miss out if you are as lanky as jacob ;-) the finish is a bit morpho and wierd, and i thought very fluffable. (but also an amazing move)