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Spinning holds (Read 11447 times)

Jaspersharpe

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#25 Re: Spinning holds
February 01, 2013, 08:24:59 pm
I once reached statically for the finishing jug of a problem opposite the desk at The Works and lifted it off the wall.

I handed it in and was told that Percy had just set the problem.

This is of no relevance but I found it amusing.

tomtom

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#26 Spinning holds
February 01, 2013, 09:35:39 pm
I heard there's someone from claimsdirect.com who goes around loosening holds at the Works... ;)

lukeh

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#27 Re: Spinning holds
February 01, 2013, 09:36:31 pm
Hmm. I may have glossed over the well trodden 'people are stupid/should they sue' argument  :tumble:.

But, I do think it that spinning holds can be a problem.

Visiting a wall for the first time recently I span a hold, which I would have put a screw in if I were setting it. Knowing that it was easily avoidable was what annoyed me (rather than losing the plastic flash), especially as the setter then had to climb up and tighten it, which took up more time than just whacking a screw in would have.

I think its important to make a point if it happens regularly, like any gripe you have with a business you want to see succeed. In that case, as they were experienced setters I later I asked, why it didn't have screw in - as I was a new setter and always get told to put screws in at my wall... hopefully just enough of a point to get them thinking about it as a fixable problem rather that just punters making them spend time tightening holds/a dickhead whingeing.

The thing is, its quick and easy for route setters to remove the problem most of the time. Properly tightened, and with a screw if the hold is likely to have a large moment placed upon it.

We go to walls to train/have fun, neither of which are improved by spinning holds. I accept that some holds will occasionally spin, but this should not be an excuse for lazy setting on the holds which can easily be sorted with a screw.


 

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