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Porth Ysgo Beta Thread (Read 47583 times)

Doylo

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#50 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 05:00:46 pm
TISM man was 7b originally was it not?

Pantontino

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#51 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 05:01:11 pm
Lund, if its any consolation - lots of people struggle on Tents at Midnight. That first move is fierce unless you've got reasonably long arms.

Last time I was there with a group the consensus was that 7A+ was a fairer grade. It was slightly blocked by an annoying rock for a few years but we managed to shift it - so should be clear now.

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#52 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 05:03:49 pm
TISM man was 7b originally was it not?

It probably was in the original Northern Soul zines, but (as Dave Parry recently pointed out) there were lots of untested/holiday grades around in those days.

I'd be happy for it to go in as 7B.

Doylo

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#53 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 05:05:49 pm
TISM man was 7b originally was it not?

It probably was in the original Northern Soul zines, but (as Dave Parry recently pointed out) there were lots of untested/holiday grades around in those days.

I'd be happy for it to go in as 7B.

With v9 for Gnasher perhaps the best  :-\

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#54 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 05:11:38 pm
FWIW I'd say (and this is having only had one and a half dog with 5 dicks intensity days at the place):

Jawbreaker 7a - knacky yes, but powerful...can think of lots of similarly hard 7as I've done (plus I'd love a retro-upgrade!).
Higginson's Scar 6b - probably suited my style but is it really that hard? I flashed it (check me out!) and I don't normally flash 6b, let alone harder.
ISM Sit 7b - didn't do it but saw Ian also struggle and know how strong he is...couldn't help but think it looked every bit value for 7b, especially for the more compact gentleman.

I was surprised at how much difficulty these young lads had on Jawbreaker - they are really strong on plastic so I thought they'd do it easily. I'll have another look when my knee gets better; there's also a 7B rhand start I need to check out too:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=553

Pantontino

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#55 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 05:13:01 pm
TISM man was 7b originally was it not?

It probably was in the original Northern Soul zines, but (as Dave Parry recently pointed out) there were lots of untested/holiday grades around in those days.

I'd be happy for it to go in as 7B.

With v9 for Gnasher perhaps the best  :-\

Ha, ha! Gnasher is nails (but probably not 7C nails).

Doylo

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#56 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 05:19:54 pm
That Jawbreaker sitter is supposed to be brilliant. Might have been affected by big rocks tho?

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#57 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 05:21:21 pm
Jawbreaker took me a few goes at the end of a session, I only seem to get 7As that quickly in Font and nowhere else, plus I am a midget, so it can't be 7A.

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#58 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 05:35:07 pm
Jawbreaker took me a few goes at the end of a session, I only seem to get 7As that quickly in Font and nowhere else, plus I am a midget, so it can't be 7A.

6C+ it is then. Good to know that is not a reach issue - I knew it was all about the 'knack'. If you get the leg clamp just right and your hands positioned well on the hanging start it goes quite sweetly.

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#59 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 05:40:20 pm
Glad to hear Higginson's is getting 6B+. I know I was hungover and climbing like a spanner when I was there last week but it still didn't feel 6B.

One thing that didn't make much sense in the old guide was the description of Ysgo Flange. It says there is a harder r-hand start at V2/3 but the obvious r-hand start (l-hand in obvious sidepull slot) was patently easier than direct into the bottom of the groove (unless you're a giant) and there didn't seem room for another start further right again? I did it with left in slot, felt about V2.

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#60 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 05:42:29 pm
LEG CLAMP!!!! Now the trade secrets come out! For me it's a full on campus with a tiny bit of toe rubber on a graze or couple of barnacles..

Not sure I can visualise a leg clamp on it.. (And I have plenty of leg to clamp with) :)

205Chris

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#61 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 05:44:21 pm
I went over to Ysgo in November for a few of the classics. Jawbreaker SDS is brilliant, although if shorties have a tough time on ISM SDS I imagine they may well find themselves shortchanged on Jawbreaker SDS as well. I'm 6ft and Jawbreaker sit felt about 7B. although a significantly harder proposition than ISM SDS.

If anyone's interested I got some horribly over exposed footage:


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#62 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 05:46:42 pm
LEG CLAMP!!!!

FFS.  No wonder my guidebook got maltreated.

Pantontino

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#63 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 05:48:36 pm
Glad to hear Higginson's is getting 6B+. I know I was hungover and climbing like a spanner when I was there last week but it still didn't feel 6B.

One thing that didn't make much sense in the old guide was the description of Ysgo Flange. It says there is a harder r-hand start at V2/3 but the obvious r-hand start (l-hand in obvious sidepull slot) was patently easier than direct into the bottom of the groove (unless you're a giant) and there didn't seem room for another start further right again? I did it with left in slot, felt about V2.

Personally I would have accepted 6C for HS but others find it steady.

Ysgo Flange must be a height thing - I find the initial pull-on on RH version tricky and insecure.

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#64 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 05:49:39 pm
LEG CLAMP!!!!

FFS.  No wonder my guidebook got maltreated.

Just to be clear the leg clamp is only in operation at the hanging positon, as soon as you start firing up it pops.

Paul B

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#65 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 05:57:23 pm
Watching that video I think I need to go back on a nice day and re-address my rather miserable outlook on Ysgo from last time I went.

I must be a right miserable b*stard at times.

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#66 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 05:59:25 pm
I went over to Ysgo in November for a few of the classics. Jawbreaker SDS is brilliant, although if shorties have a tough time on ISM SDS I imagine they may well find themselves shortchanged on Jawbreaker SDS as well. I'm 6ft and Jawbreaker sit felt about 7B. although a significantly harder proposition than ISM SDS.

If anyone's interested I got some horribly over exposed footage:


Jawbreaker sds looks really good - thanks for posting the film. Your sequence on Higg Scar looked completely different to how I do it - mind you, it's well within your grade.

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#67 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 06:00:51 pm
There was a leg clamp???

I'm 5'8" +1 AI, it did feel reachy but primarily powerful, I was a lot lighter in those days, it might feel desperate now.


Doylo

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#68 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 06:00:59 pm

I must be a right miserable b*stard at times.

You are

Fiend

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#69 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 06:04:43 pm
But so is dense and we all  :wub: him....

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#70 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 06:12:30 pm
It's great to read this thread.  I used to go down to Ysgo beach when I was kid all the time with my family, we used to call it "The Lead Mines".  When I started climbing in the early 90's I wandered down there having a vague memory of blocks and was amazed to find this incredible boulder field and climbed some of the easy obvious  lines.  I think it was '93 or '94 so probably around the time that Simon and others rediscovered it.  It was beer towel time and I went back to Sheffield telling Jason, Ben, Jerry, Gav and Nic about this amazing boulder field but no-one believed me... It was only when the stone monkey ad with the axle appeared that the penny dropped.  A lovely spot.

Paul B

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#71 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 06:20:03 pm
It was only when the stone monkey ad with the axle appeared that the penny dropped.  A lovely spot.

I've never seen this, anyone care to locate and scan?

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#72 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 06:53:28 pm
I went over to Ysgo in November for a few of the classics. Jawbreaker SDS is brilliant, although if shorties have a tough time on ISM SDS I imagine they may well find themselves shortchanged on Jawbreaker SDS as well. I'm 6ft and Jawbreaker sit felt about 7B. although a significantly harder proposition than ISM SDS.

If anyone's interested I got some horribly over exposed footage:



I was about to type that ISM wasn't significantly harder for the short but seeing that maybe it is, I had to start with LF up on the hold you cross RF through to. Although there's then a toe-hook that means you can reach the RH up easily enough for the next hold so maybe that balances it out?  But no way could I reach through like that, there was LH slapping up the rib involved but can't quite remember how to eventually gain the shelf.  Felt every bit 7B to me. Want to go back and finish that off so badly.

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#73 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 06:57:58 pm
Sorry, don't think I can source a copy but I used to love that advert too. It inspired me both to go to Porth Ysgo and get a stone monkey vest. First place I ever went with a bouldering pad too.
I managed a quick visit just after christmas between the storms. Magic it was.

Doylo

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#74 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 07:43:42 pm
What year was the advert from?

 

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