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Porth Ysgo Beta Thread (Read 47532 times)

Probes

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#25 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 25, 2013, 03:35:52 pm
Controversial.... That makes his V11s a...  :blink:

« Last Edit: January 25, 2013, 03:57:00 pm by Probes »

Doylo

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#26 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 25, 2013, 07:04:21 pm
I still can't believe he gave Isles of wonder 8b :o. The penny must be dropping that he's actually quite good

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#27 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 08:34:34 am
Only been to Ysgo once about 2 days after I started climbing, finally heading back this Saturday. Got a good idea of the classics to get on, I get the vibe most of the stuff is slopey on rough holds but are there any crimpy problems worth seeking out 6C-7A+?

Nothing like playing to your strengths to avoid an ego bashing...

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#28 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 09:49:09 am
Only been to Ysgo once about 2 days after I started climbing, finally heading back this Saturday. Got a good idea of the classics to get on, I get the vibe most of the stuff is slopey on rough holds but are there any crimpy problems worth seeking out 6C-7A+?

Nothing like playing to your strengths to avoid an ego bashing...

Here's a few:

Simon's Arete (right of Ysgo Flange) 7Aish. Fingery 7Bish sds too.
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=350



Rhino Horn is actually very cool once you've sussed the sequence. 7A
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=573

Dringo Gaeaf is also good, and surprisingly independant. 6C standing with left on spike/harder lower start is possible
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=482



Simple things/Winter things - 6C/7A techy wall climbing
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=539
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=545



VG Central sds 7A+ - this is excellent and surprisingly tough.
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=95
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=432



Here Comes the Sun sds 7A
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=441

Brian Spray 7Aish  slightly contrived, in that it has a specified start, but some (i.e two) great moves. (left hand: black sidepull, right hand: flat edge at same height, i.e. head height)

tommytwotone

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#29 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 09:50:43 am
Very jealous Luke - we had a great weekend over there this time last year.


I can only think of Jawbreaker and Perrin's Crack SDS that I did that fit the bill, but I'm assuming Popcorn Party and Incredible Shaking Man SDS would also do you.



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#30 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 02:02:49 pm
Here's a few:

Simon's Arete (right of Ysgo Flange) 7Aish. Fingery 7Bish sds too.
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=350

Rhino Horn is actually very cool once you've sussed the sequence. 7A
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=573

Dringo Gaeaf is also good, and surprisingly independant. 6C standing with left on spike/harder lower start is possible
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=482

Simple things/Winter things - 6C/7A techy wall climbing
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=539
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=545

VG Central sds 7A+ - this is excellent and surprisingly tough.
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=95
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=432

Here Comes the Sun sds 7A
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=441

Brian Spray 7Aish  slightly contrived, in that it has a specified start, but some (i.e two) great moves. (left hand: black sidepull, right hand: flat edge at same height, i.e. head height)

 :bow: As always, many thanks Si! They all look great, my ticklist for just one day is now massive... haha. If I manage to do any of the new ones post-guide I'll give you some feedback.

Very jealous Luke - we had a great weekend over there this time last year.

I can only think of Jawbreaker and Perrin's Crack SDS that I did that fit the bill, but I'm assuming Popcorn Party and Incredible Shaking Man SDS would also do you.

Come along if you can make it! That goes for anyone else, more the merrier!

Popcorn Party and TISM sds are top of my ticklist for Ysgo but I think TISM maybe a bit out of my depth as a hard 7A+... going to get on it though!

I've got Stick It! on repeat! :bounce:

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#31 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 03:13:01 pm
Good psyche!

TISM sds is very cool but those lacking long arms tend to have a real battle on it - indeed 7B has been suggested.

Personally I find the neighbouring Perrin's Crack sds to be harder.

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#32 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 03:30:21 pm
On both my Ysgo visits I've been spanked. Like font - it seems when I go there I have to drop the grade I'd aim for by a couple of spots... it all felt haaaarrrrdd... :)

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#33 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 03:36:18 pm
Good psyche!

TISM sds is very cool but those lacking long arms tend to have a real battle on it - indeed 7B has been suggested.

Personally I find the neighbouring Perrin's Crack sds to be harder.

I always feel like 7B is fair for TISM sitter but being relatively short, I find Perrin's sitter fine, probably 7A and a great problem now the axle has gone.  Both are utter class though and that's the important thing. The Uncle round to the left is brilliant too but needs plenty of pads.

Tomtom, once you get into Ysgo, get stuff padded and get decent cold conditions, it feels ok.  Some things are even soft... But then again others ain't, so I guess that's just grade spread for you. Andy and I were discussing Ysgo the other day on fb, we should get a trip down there sorted before it warms up.

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#34 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 03:39:31 pm
Tomtom, once you get into Ysgo, get stuff padded and get decent cold conditions, it feels ok.  Some things are even soft... But then again others ain't, so I guess that's just grade spread for you. Andy and I were discussing Ysgo the other day on fb, we should get a trip down there sorted before it warms up.

Yup - we were discussing whether it was Day trippable from our way.. (probably just)... I'd be up for it anyway..
TT

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#35 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 03:43:26 pm
On both my Ysgo visits I've been spanked. Like font - it seems when I go there I have to drop the grade I'd aim for by a couple of spots... it all felt haaaarrrrdd... :)

I guess it does take a bit of getting used to but the main thing is that really good conditions are not as common as you might expect, even in the winter. Best is an overcast, windy day with a dropping temperature. Often in the winter it can be too hot in the sun. Shady problems like Ble Mae Charlie are good bet if you are losing skin in the sun.

Just out of interest - what problems gave you trouble? I only ask because I'm always fishing for guidebook feedback.

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#36 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 03:52:41 pm
Just out of interest - what problems gave you trouble? I only ask because I'm always fishing for guidebook feedback.

Jawbreaker - I'm miles away from that (maybe not my style - ie its dynamic!)

Higginson Scar - took me ages to do.. (and I think I lanked it somehow!)

Popcorn Party - its a bit of a climbing wall style of problem, but just wore me out.. classic case of work out the sequence then trashed... Love the rock though..

I don't think the gradings that wack - its more like many places it takes a while to get dialed in (calibrated if you like) to the different rock type. I think I have a weakness in that it takes me a while to adjust.. Interesting to hear the connies are pretty fickle.. its always felt like me rather than grease is the issue.. Many of the problems I've tried/done felt like they were based more on power than knack - thats a sweeping generalisation and probably heavily biased by the problems tried - but thats how it felt to me.. (we mostly tried the popular/starred problems from boulder britain and the NW Guide). BUT.. when we went last year others in the party (notably James) had his best day ever (several 7's - flashed a couple) and I seemed to be the only person having real problems getting to grips with things...

Sorry if thats a long rambling answer!

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#37 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 03:55:30 pm
I've been to porth ysgo a few times.  I got so spanked last time I had an epic paddy and tore the pages out of my guidebook.

I've kept them though, so when I calm down in a few years I might go back.




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#38 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 03:55:49 pm
I've been to porth ysgo a few times.  I got so spanked last time I had an epic paddy and tore the pages out of my guidebook.

I've kept them though, so when I calm down in a few years I might go back.

:D

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#39 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 04:02:50 pm
I've been to porth ysgo a few times.  I got so spanked last time I had an epic paddy and tore the pages out of my guidebook.

I've kept them though, so when I calm down in a few years I might go back.

A lot of things seem to give you a paddy. Yoga, people stretching at the wall rather than cranking hard, men who want to buff up their chests and now Ysgo.
Have you thought of booking on a Lagerstarfish anger management course. :wall:

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#40 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 04:07:22 pm
Tomtom, once you get into Ysgo, get stuff padded and get decent cold conditions, it feels ok.  Some things are even soft... But then again others ain't, so I guess that's just grade spread for you. Andy and I were discussing Ysgo the other day on fb, we should get a trip down there sorted before it warms up.

Yup - we were discussing whether it was Day trippable from our way.. (probably just)... I'd be up for it anyway..
TT
Me too

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#41 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 04:08:30 pm
Just out of interest - what problems gave you trouble? I only ask because I'm always fishing for guidebook feedback.

Jawbreaker - I'm miles away from that (maybe not my style - ie its dynamic!)

Higginson Scar - took me ages to do.. (and I think I lanked it somehow!)

Popcorn Party - its a bit of a climbing wall style of problem, but just wore me out.. classic case of work out the sequence then trashed... Love the rock though..

I don't think the gradings that wack - its more like many places it takes a while to get dialed in (calibrated if you like) to the different rock type. I think I have a weakness in that it takes me a while to adjust.. Interesting to hear the connies are pretty fickle.. its always felt like me rather than grease is the issue.. Many of the problems I've tried/done felt like they were based more on power than knack - thats a sweeping generalisation and probably heavily biased by the problems tried - but thats how it felt to me.. (we mostly tried the popular/starred problems from boulder britain and the NW Guide). BUT.. when we went last year others in the party (notably James) had his best day ever (several 7's - flashed a couple) and I seemed to be the only person having real problems getting to grips with things...

Sorry if thats a long rambling answer!

Jawbreaker is obviously reachy and powerful, but there is also quite a subtle knack to it. I've seen some strong young lads from the wall flummoxed by it. This is going in the guide as 6C+.

Higginson Scar - there is a bit of a knack to the crux. I go into a slight bridge across to a smear to bring my right hand up to the rubbish pinch, then carefully move my left foot onto the starting handhold and use a small side pull out left to get my centre of gravity in the right place before moving up to the good flatty ledge. This is going in the guide as 6B+.

Popcorn Party - this is hard and requires some quite specific hold use. I am considering putting in as 7A+, although it did occur to me that people often try it late in the day when they are tired?

When I said the conditions are fickle - all I meant really is that one of the great things about the Ysgo area venues is that you arrive there mid winter to find sun soaked rock and all is suddenly right with the world, when in actual fact if you are working a line at your limit those days (which are very common) are not usually the best for climbing hard.

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#42 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 04:10:46 pm
Yup - we were discussing whether it was Day trippable from our way.. (probably just)... I'd be up for it anyway..
Give me a shout TT if you are going I would definately be up for a return visit

I am also willing to do the driving, dont worry I have upgraded from the knackered fiesta.

Higginson Scar - took me ages to do.. (and I think I lanked it somehow!)
I failed badly on this too really struggled with the first move. felt hard for 6B when I felt I was going strong I flashed TISH stand later in the day also 6B

I grubes and I seemed to be the only people having real problems getting to grips with things...
I was all over the place I found Closer and traverse round the corner nails and did not do either.
Perris crack (stand) felt fine maybe soft at 6A/V3
« Last Edit: January 09, 2014, 04:18:10 pm by Grubes »

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#43 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 04:16:54 pm
I've been to porth ysgo a few times.  I got so spanked last time I had an epic paddy and tore the pages out of my guidebook.

I've kept them though, so when I calm down in a few years I might go back.

Dare I ask what the specific source of your paddy was? (Just for research purposes of course.)

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#44 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 04:22:31 pm

Popcorn Party - this is hard and requires some quite specific hold use. I am considering putting in as 7A+, although it did occur to me that people often try it late in the day when they are tired?


The starting positions probably require more definition in the guide.. I know its dependant on the pebble situation, but I've seen vids of folk claiming the 7A tick not including the sit / lying start with the base slots... If its banked up with pebbles the easier higher start probably seems like the full sit.. 7A from the sitting/crouching and 7A+ for the full monty?

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#45 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 04:27:05 pm

Popcorn Party - this is hard and requires some quite specific hold use. I am considering putting in as 7A+, although it did occur to me that people often try it late in the day when they are tired?


The starting positions probably require more definition in the guide.. I know its dependant on the pebble situation, but I've seen vids of folk claiming the 7A tick not including the sit / lying start with the base slots... If its banked up with pebbles the easier higher start probably seems like the full sit.. 7A from the sitting/crouching and 7A+ for the full monty?

Yeah, that sounds reasonable (and is roughly what I put in the 2004 guide, albeit with harsher grades). Be interesting to see what state it is in after all these big storms.

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#46 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 04:29:53 pm
Be interesting to see what state it is in after all these big storms.

:/

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#47 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 04:30:34 pm
and is roughly what I put in the 2004 guide, albeit with harsher grades
I read that as a stand start but that felt about V0/1 depending on which holds you use to start on

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#48 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 04:41:09 pm
I've been to porth ysgo a few times.  I got so spanked last time I had an epic paddy and tore the pages out of my guidebook.

I've kept them though, so when I calm down in a few years I might go back.

Dare I ask what the specific source of your paddy was? (Just for research purposes of course.)

Yeah I was totally shit, AGAIN.  ;D

I tore the pages out to stop me going there without really, really, really wanting to.  Because I always end up demoralized, as I find it extremely difficult to send anything harder than about V4.  (My operating grade is about V8.)

I'm think this is because it's always sunny, and because the rock needs some getting used to, and because I find some of the landings intimidating.  Not because all the grades are whack - I'm not suggesting they are wrong for a second.  (Not least because you have to DO a problem to comment on the grade, IMO.)

Things I failed on, and have on multiple attempts, included Tents at Midnight I think.  It all seemed so... improbable.

So I had a good cry, then left, and then tore the pages out.  Then kept them just in case.  I'll be back.



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#49 Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
January 09, 2014, 04:53:17 pm
Just out of interest - what problems gave you trouble? I only ask because I'm always fishing for guidebook feedback.

Jawbreaker - I'm miles away from that (maybe not my style - ie its dynamic!)

Higginson Scar - took me ages to do.. (and I think I lanked it somehow!)

Popcorn Party - its a bit of a climbing wall style of problem, but just wore me out.. classic case of work out the sequence then trashed... Love the rock though..

I don't think the gradings that wack - its more like many places it takes a while to get dialed in (calibrated if you like) to the different rock type. I think I have a weakness in that it takes me a while to adjust.. Interesting to hear the connies are pretty fickle.. its always felt like me rather than grease is the issue.. Many of the problems I've tried/done felt like they were based more on power than knack - thats a sweeping generalisation and probably heavily biased by the problems tried - but thats how it felt to me.. (we mostly tried the popular/starred problems from boulder britain and the NW Guide). BUT.. when we went last year others in the party (notably James) had his best day ever (several 7's - flashed a couple) and I seemed to be the only person having real problems getting to grips with things...

Sorry if thats a long rambling answer!

Jawbreaker is obviously reachy and powerful, but there is also quite a subtle knack to it. I've seen some strong young lads from the wall flummoxed by it. This is going in the guide as 6C+.

Higginson Scar - there is a bit of a knack to the crux. I go into a slight bridge across to a smear to bring my right hand up to the rubbish pinch, then carefully move my left foot onto the starting handhold and use a small side pull out left to get my centre of gravity in the right place before moving up to the good flatty ledge. This is going in the guide as 6B+.

Popcorn Party - this is hard and requires some quite specific hold use. I am considering putting in as 7A+, although it did occur to me that people often try it late in the day when they are tired?

When I said the conditions are fickle - all I meant really is that one of the great things about the Ysgo area venues is that you arrive there mid winter to find sun soaked rock and all is suddenly right with the world, when in actual fact if you are working a line at your limit those days (which are very common) are not usually the best for climbing hard.


FWIW I'd say (and this is having only had one and a half dog with 5 dicks intensity days at the place):


Jawbreaker 7a - knacky yes, but powerful...can think of lots of similarly hard 7as I've done (plus I'd love a retro-upgrade!).
Higginson's Scar 6b - probably suited my style but is it really that hard? I flashed it (check me out!) and I don't normally flash 6b, let alone harder.
ISM Sit 7b - didn't do it but saw Ian also struggle and know how strong he is...couldn't help but think it looked every bit value for 7b, especially for the more compact gentleman.










 

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