Porth Ysgo Beta Thread (Read 48126 times)

Pantontino · January 13, 2014, 12:45:32 pm

Quote from: Doylo on January 13, 2014, 12:26:22 pm

Now you've worked out how to upload to Vimeo can we see Pete's 8a?

Yes, but not until Chummer does his project.

Luke Owens · January 13, 2014, 07:29:07 pm

Quote from: Pantontino on January 13, 2014, 12:18:19 pm

We went over to Clwt y Fiaren first and I managed to bag a new 7A:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=689

Then we went over to the School for Gifted block (just beyond Made in Heaven) and Owen climbed an excellent new 7A+ extension to School for Gifted:

There's a film of it here:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=690

Saw a few people walking out later on but missed you Luke. Sounds like a bit of ground works is needed after the storms. The landing below School for Gifted has got better. I spent an hour and half building a patio under this last summer to negate a back breaking block, but the storm has just swept everything out of the way, including the annoying block.

Nice one Si! Sounds like you guys had a great day too. Drove past you on the way out (we parked in the other car park further down). Lots of people out that day, we all made the right decision!

Pantontino · January 20, 2014, 10:43:13 am

Went back down yesterday to check out the storm damage. Bad news for Richie Crouch, Higginson Scar is lost, perhaps forever!

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=692

Doylo · January 20, 2014, 10:54:29 am

Might need to get super skinny Crouchy...

Richie Crouch · January 20, 2014, 11:03:57 am

I'm sure it was about that close when Maskell somehow snaked through the gap!

Sad if it is impossible now, but good news on the lo lo low start by the sound of it

Pantontino · January 20, 2014, 11:59:10 am

Quote from: Richie Crouch on January 20, 2014, 11:03:57 am

I'm sure it was about that close when Maskell somehow snaked through the gap!

Sad if it is impossible now, but good news on the lo lo low start by the sound of it

It's definitely not possible now, at least not for a 'normally shaped' human being. This recent shift has occurred in the last two weeks - when I was there just after new year you could have still done it.

tomtom · January 20, 2014, 12:14:57 pm

Thats the RH version of HS though? not the actual problem..?

EDIT just ready your NW blog.. OK it is the RH problem..

Pantontino · January 20, 2014, 01:02:40 pm

Quote from: tomtom on January 20, 2014, 12:14:57 pm

Thats the RH version of HS though? not the actual problem..?

EDIT just ready your NW blog.. OK it is the RH problem..

Yes, sorry for the confusion, I forgot to type RH.

Thankfully Higginson Scar is unaffected by the recent boulder shifts, although it did occur to me that maybe the boulder is getting steeper, i.e. being pushed over forwards by the land slump at the back?

tomtom · January 20, 2014, 01:06:13 pm

Quote from: Pantontino on January 20, 2014, 01:02:40 pm

Quote from: tomtom on January 20, 2014, 12:14:57 pm
Thats the RH version of HS though? not the actual problem..?

EDIT just ready your NW blog.. OK it is the RH problem..

Yes, sorry for the confusion, I forgot to type RH.

Thankfully Higginson Scar is unaffected by the recent boulder shifts, although it did occur to me that maybe the boulder is getting steeper, i.e. being pushed over forwards by the land slump at the back?

V5 then

SA Chris · January 20, 2014, 01:08:02 pm

Time to start monitoring!

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.plaincode.clinometer

Falling Down · January 20, 2014, 02:02:53 pm

I wonder what Cilan is like. Dave L sent me a pic of waves breaking over the headland..

Pantontino · January 20, 2014, 05:50:34 pm

Quote from: Falling Down on January 20, 2014, 02:02:53 pm

I wonder what Cilan is like. Dave L sent me a pic of waves breaking over the headland..

I would be surprised if there wasn't some fairly major rock falls. It'll be a spooky time heading out on the sea cliffs in the next few months.

Johnny Brown · January 20, 2014, 06:45:13 pm

Quote from: Falling Down on January 20, 2014, 02:02:53 pm

I wonder what Cilan is like. Dave L sent me a pic of waves breaking over the headland..

Post it up! Our beach hut has been condemned by the council, instead of being half way up a sand dune it is now overhanging a sand cliff. :-(

Falling Down · January 20, 2014, 07:27:47 pm

They're on his Twitter feed with some spectacular pics from the Bardsey Obs gang. Look at those and you can see why Ysgo took a beating...

Sorry to hear your beach but is condemned. I wonder if the guy who paid all that money for his a few years back is also in the same position?

Johnny Brown · January 20, 2014, 07:43:15 pm

Yeah there's some pleasing irony in there as the guy who owns the land has been screwing everyone the last few years. Ain't worth so much now, in fact I think the Queen owns most of it!

Luke Owens · January 09, 2015, 10:56:16 am

Does anyone happen to know what isn't climbable at Porth Ysgo at high tide? More specifically is the Made in Heaven block effected? Cheers

Doylo · January 09, 2015, 11:00:31 am

Yes it is.

tomtom · January 09, 2015, 11:34:37 am

From memory only the blocs at the back are unaffected.. But if there's any wave action they get hit/wet/sprayed too. But I've only been a few times...

tomtom · January 09, 2015, 11:35:00 am

Always the new crag up on the hill above??

Luke Owens · January 09, 2015, 11:42:35 am

Cheers guys, there's a 4m high this weekend which sounds pretty low... and as the wind is coming from the NW, so I'm guessing the waves shouldn't be bad?

Quote from: Doylo on January 09, 2015, 11:00:31 am

Yes it is.

Rough guess of how long after high it's climable?

Doylo · January 09, 2015, 11:53:17 am

You'd have to ask Mr P.

fatneck · January 09, 2015, 02:42:21 pm

There is plenty that is climbable at high tide Luke but as for Made in Heaven - what Doylo said...

FWIW I've never happened upon the MIH block when it wasn't wet (although it's not like I'm there every week more's the pity...)

Pantontino · January 09, 2015, 06:10:40 pm

The Born in Gateshead crack start to Made in Heaven often seeps, but the stand up version can normally be done even if there is some seepage as it is less crucial. It is tidal though, although not that much (I'm sure it would be climbable an hour or two after high tide, especially if you have a towel to dry the footholds on the start). The nearby Thagomizer block is really good and is unaffected by the sea unless there is a massive storm. There is loads to do at Ysgo outside of the tidal zone. And as others have said you could always go to Clwt y Fiaren - there's some brilliant problems there:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=697
(follow the links at the bottom of the news item for more info.)

This weekend should be good conditions - plenty of wind and falling temperatures from today's high will mean fast drying rocks and no 'sweating/condensation' issues. It should be mint. Sunday looks like being the best day - I'll probably end up down there somewhere on that day.

Luke Owens · January 19, 2015, 08:45:02 am

Quote from: Pantontino on January 09, 2015, 06:10:40 pm

The Born in Gateshead crack start to Made in Heaven often seeps, but the stand up version can normally be done even if there is some seepage as it is less crucial. It is tidal though, although not that much (I'm sure it would be climbable an hour or two after high tide, especially if you have a towel to dry the footholds on the start). The nearby Thagomizer block is really good and is unaffected by the sea unless there is a massive storm. There is loads to do at Ysgo outside of the tidal zone. And as others have said you could always go to Clwt y Fiaren - there's some brilliant problems there:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=697
(follow the links at the bottom of the news item for more info.)

This weekend should be good conditions - plenty of wind and falling temperatures from today's high will mean fast drying rocks and no 'sweating/condensation' issues. It should be mint. Sunday looks like being the best day - I'll probably end up down there somewhere on that day.

Cheers Si, really helpful thanks! Porth Nefoedd looks great too, think I'll need someone in the know to give me a tour there soon.

I didn't end up making it to Ysgo that weekend due to a house DIY emergency but went yesterday and had the worst day ever...

On the drive down the weather looked the best I've seen it on the way, when we got to the beach everything was soaked. Even with intermittent sun we waited there for 2 hours and nothing dryed and the odd shower didn't help. There was wind up top but none on the beach so I'm guessing that was the issue.

Any idea on what's the best wind direction/speed to look out for when heading down there next? I need to redeem the 5 hour round trip ASAP

Cheers

Pantontino · January 19, 2015, 06:09:39 pm

Sorry to hear about the wasted journey.

I guess northerlies aren't so good as they will tend to blow over the top. It must have rained just before you got there as I don't think there was a rising temperature on Saturday (it was certainly cold at my house). I'm genuinely surprised the boulders still remained wet after 2 hours.

I guess it doesn't help to know that Doylo and crew had good conditions the day before at Porth Nefoedd. Or that in all the years I've been bouldering down there I can only recall the odd day when the rock was too wet to climb (I did meet Andy Swann walking out once looking very dismayed given that he'd travelled a significant distance to get there only to find damp rock).

Thinking about the wind direction - a strong onshore south westerly can mess things up too, blowing too much spray into the boulder field.

One other thought: were the rocks around the Mynydd y Graig escarpment (Rhiw) not dry? Clwt y Fiaren for example is well exposed to the wind. We once rescued a sea level session (massive waves and too much spray) by going here.