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The best of cornwall (Read 19212 times)

clm

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#25 Re: The best of cornwall
April 15, 2010, 05:53:17 pm
The short leaning prow (not terribly obvious) above the yellow mat in pic 3 was lovely.  Did anyone top the steep problem in pic one?  I found the mantle hideous,

Ps.  small but clean is ideal. Im dreadful.

SA Chris

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#26 Re: The best of cornwall
April 19, 2010, 02:43:20 pm

As for the Arthurian legend that is the 'Superbloc' area which is near Tintagel somewhere...  I got the long awaited invite at the start of the week but couldn't go coz I was on 'wife duty'.  So still none the wiser but apparently TOM NEWBERRY is doing a topo and DAVE WESTLAKE has been there.  So would one of you just tell the punters where it bluddy is (it's probably slimey, covered in barnacles, limpets and such anyway).

It would appear some proverbial Heinz spillage has taken place

http://info.rockrun.com/articles/tintagel-north-cornish-coastal-bouldering.html

ben

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#27 Re: The best of cornwall
April 19, 2010, 03:15:08 pm
excellent, right next door to a good winter surf spot too..  shall make a trip up there when my post-font skin has recuperated sufficiently

granticus

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#28 Re: The best of cornwall
April 19, 2010, 11:26:35 pm
Quote
Did anyone top the steep problem in pic one?  I found the mantle hideous,

Yep! Photo is of Joe who flashed it  8)  I got it second go >:( should hav flashed it!  It was just of case of heel on and over you go.
Quote
It would appear some proverbial Heinz spillage has taken place

http://info.rockrun.com/articles/tintagel-north-cornish-coastal-bouldering.html

Good detective work Chris!  And nice work young Mr Newberry you've made a few people happy!

clm

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#29 Re: The best of cornwall
April 20, 2010, 06:15:31 pm
hmmm, heel on a bit :o on my bill.

Duma

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#30 Re: The best of cornwall
April 25, 2010, 10:41:45 pm
Went down to Superbloc yesterday, had a great few hours. Purple Haze is a proper classic, and Kids has a great couple of moves too (question: I started matched on the sidepull/crimp in the roof, slapped the lip... this the correct start? Only ask as there's a couple of opposing edges further back which would let you pull on with your feet at the back of the roof, though I think this'd be tricky at 7B+).
I'm sure there's more to find with a little dedication/imagination, but from the point of view of someone turning up with just that topo I think you wouldn't get much more than a day out of the place. Be nice to have a bit more detailed info, but perhaps there's still projects on the go.
Shame to see the ticks all over PH and Kids - I got rid of them all, but really, PH has one slap on it, and even that is to an easily visible hold. Ticking the hold you slap to on the lip of Kids is fair enough, but brush them off people! Plus if you can do the first move you definitely won't have any trouble on  the diagonally  rising line of massive edges that were covered in donkey lines as well.
The place has only just been publicised (Tom's guide was only written 6 days ago!), so it was a bit of a bummer to turn up and already find people so unthinking.
Not to end on a negative note, great work Tom, its a lovely spot, and thanks Dave for the pm to give me a head start!

Bonjoy

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#31 Re: The best of cornwall
June 09, 2010, 11:00:04 am
Didn’t end up doing any bouldering (other than one prob mentioned below) in the end. However I did spot a worthwhile bit of potential very near where we were staying. Just thought I’d mention in case anyone local is looking for a project or two.
It’s on the right side of Port Gaverne (looking out to sea). About halfway between the back and the front of the cove. It’s a flat overhanging (maybe 35 degrees) wall of slatey rock, topping out in a hanging cave. About 4 or 5m high above a flat sandy landing. Accessible from mid tide, or earlier if willing to wade.
Looks to have four or five lines to do, all positive edgy yarding. I did the obvious central line which is about font 6b+ and excellent. The line to its left will be a fair bit harder (no easier than 7b, probably harder) and looks a classic.
I’d be interested to hear back if anyone checks it out.
Really nice beach, with good pub and mackerelling off the end of the cove, so a visit wouldn’t be wasted whatever happens!

Mike Tyson

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#32 Re: The best of cornwall
May 27, 2015, 08:22:33 pm
Sorry to drag an old topic up.

I'm off to Port Isaac with the non climbing Mrs for a week, she is open to the idea of me doing a bit of bouldering though whilst she catches the sun (hopefully) and reads.

No other info on here when I search for Port Isaac, so any knowledge to be had from the UKB collective? Quite keen to check out your suggestion Bonjoy.

turnipturned

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#33 Re: The best of cornwall
May 27, 2015, 08:45:15 pm
 Now then.

Just down the road you have pentire (5-10min drive) there is a really good block just below Great Wall! This has stuff from 7c-8a on it, good 2 hours either side of high tide (big swell it gets wet on low tide). Over the other side of the bay is the pentire boulder field, lots of stuff there but not a great deal recorded, I know a lot of stuff so PM me if you want more detail. Can only access on low - mid tide. Walk in is pretty steep!

There is a cool 7b call blood sweat and tears along the coast from polzeath beach, it's in a hidden cove on the headland. Best on a low to mid!

15 mins north is tintagnel there loads down there from 6b to maybe 8b (project), good on a mid-low. Bit tricky to find on your first attempt so if you are keen PM me.

Have fun it's ace!

Mike Tyson

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#34 Re: The best of cornwall
May 27, 2015, 09:31:12 pm
Excellent! Thanks very much, will PM you for more detail soon.

Stubbs

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#35 Re: The best of cornwall
May 27, 2015, 09:53:57 pm
 The area is well covered in Grimer's Boulder Britain guide. Tintagel is a lovely spot provided the tides are in your favour.

Mike Tyson

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#36 Re: The best of cornwall
May 27, 2015, 10:27:33 pm
Cheers Tim.

turnipturned

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#37 Re: The best of cornwall
May 27, 2015, 10:46:03 pm
The area is well covered in Grimer's Boulder Britain guide. Tintagel is a lovely spot provided the tides are in your favour.

Forgot about that ha.


 

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