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Best of 2012 (Read 28119 times)

JacobJacob

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#25 Re: Best of 2012
January 01, 2013, 11:02:47 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK
Underhand Super Extension - Almscliff (7c+) Nemesis, a rediculous number of sessions.
Spring Voyage - Stanage (7c) Max use of the lank, brilliant.
Pistol Whip - Almscliff (7b+) Feels like 5+ when you work out the body positions

Top trad routes/soloes UK
Point Blank - Pembroke (E8) Abseil up, 4th go, wild.
Night Flight - Pembroke (E7) Any excuse to get back on the Point Blank headwall.
Lord of the Flies - Dinas Cromlech (E6) SO MUCH FEAR.

Top three sport routes UK
Totally Free 2 - Malham 8b
Predator - Malham 8b
Overnight Sensation - Malham 8a+ Hardest route I've ever done.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Zona 0 - Siurana (8b)
Pren Nota - Siurana (8a) Onsight
La Cara Que No Miente - Siurana (8a+)

Top Spanking's

Out of My mind - Pembroke (E5) Couldn't work out where the line went, desperately slapping into the unknown, took a 12m whipper swinging around the corner...

Fluid Magnetic - Font (7b) Really?

Ecstasy - Kilnsey (8b) - Had a terrible time, couldn't do several moves after two sessions... :(


r-man

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#26 Re: Best of 2012
January 01, 2013, 11:08:34 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK
Submarine - Longridge. Satisfying one mover. Close on the sitter, which was unexpected.
Tetris - Roaches. Hot day, bit of a fight. All's well that ends with a topout. Beautiful boulder.
JR's Soft Shoe Shuffle - Wilton 3. Classy slab first done in 1984 by John Hartley. Nothing holds and wafer step-ups.

Top three new route/prob put up

A Steep Quarry Project Standup. 6 sessions to stick the crux slap to an arete sloper. Yes!
Hellebore - Stanworth. Could have done it quickly, ended up using all my error cards before I got to the winner.
The Lady's Not for Gurning - Blackstone Edge. A perfect roof lip mantle tussle.

Top Spanking's
-A Steep Quarry Project Sitter. 16 sessions, only done the crux twice. Good job I like it.
-Colt - Brownstones. Three sessions recently. Think I have the beta now, hit the pocket a few times, maybe I'll stick it next time. For those interested, it turns out that the broken hold was not used on the FA, but perhaps it deserves to go up to 7C+ anyway.
-Night session on a brilliant quarried Careless Torque. Too scared to attempt the topout in the dark. Couldn't stop thinking about it for two weeks, but somehow haven't managed a return visit.

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#27 Re: Best of 2012
January 02, 2013, 11:27:54 am
Top Three Five Boulder Problems, UK

Isla de Encanta (8b) Trowbarrow- Big break through- Basic and powerful
Sideliner (8a) Crookrise- Awesome roof- no clue how to climb it spent 2 (1hour) sessions after work figuring it out and then the third day sent it.
Heaven in Your Hands (7c+) Brandrith- Amazing, my feet do work sometimes.
Requiem for a dream (8a) Robin Hoods Bay- more the line than the climbing
Sidekick (8a+) BOWDERSTONE- The perfect boulder problem... except the landing

Top three five boulder problems, Abroad

Voigas (8a+) Magic Wood- despite being a shit line and not topping out- its so fun to climb.
Muttertag (8a) Magic Wood- Basic, hit the hold and pull up.
Psoas hole (8a) Targassone- Probably the most memorable 10 minutes of my climbing life. Four ascents back to back all the first goes of the day. Ben, Katz, Jon, Me.
Leftism (7c) Glendalough- Awesome- is Ireland abroad??
Vandale (7c) Font- A week after invasive surgery.

Top Three sport routes, UK

The maximum (7c+) Malham- is it shocking that I live 15minutes walk from Malham and only managed to go there twice?
Various 7a/7a+ at Malham

Top three two new problems

A larum (7a) New crag loads more potiental, need to get motivated and it to stop raining.
Straight outta carrock (7a+) Mall Hill While on a short Ireland trip- name says it all.

Top three Five spankings
Grooved arete- how do I get so pumped climbing on jugs.
Heaven in your hands- 20 goes in three minutes does work on grit.
The anchor- you shouldn't go climbing 3 days after invasive surgery.
Running the GNR- going out like a dog with two dicks, running a PB on the first mile, followed by breaking it again in the second mile followed by crawling over the line in 1.32
Being pulled over by the police for having no insurance, becasue i failed to open my post and the kind chaps at Direct Line not autorenewing my insurance- spent a lovely morning in court and came out £360 less well off and 6 points on my license. I now drive 15mph in a 40 zone.

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#28 Re: Best of 2012
January 02, 2013, 12:24:19 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK

- Porth Ysgo Crack - Great day out with a good crowd, this feels terrifying when you've only been climbing on plastic!
- Crazy Legs Crome, Whitehouses - Felt nice to get back on this after a couple of years and feel stronger.
- Mr Whippy, Pill Box - Really great problem, excellent moves on nice holds.


Top three boulder probs, abroad

Only one trip away this year to font at Easter.

- Etrave a Sucre, Beauvais - Was very happy to climb something so 'fonty' after only climbing on plastic in London.  Got really close on first session and took the decision to return and was lucky enough to finish it off.
- La Baleine, Petit Bois - One of my top five all time favourites, the move from the lip the the good flatty is so satisfying.
- La Mare Droite, Rocher Cannon - Great climbing, bit scary at the top! Didn't know where to start so traversed in from the left...


Top three new route/prob put up

I climbed a nice V0 on Raasay in my approach shoes when I was cycle touring in the Hebrides, some great potential on those islands.

Top Spankings
Jason's Roof - 5 sessions, fell off one hand move from the end due to a wet hold, it has been raining since.
The Flakes, Earl - Always feels like the living end!
Parisella's - When the cave is not in a giving mood it can make you feel like the worst climber in the world!

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#29 Re: Best of 2012
January 02, 2013, 12:50:38 pm
I've hardly done any climbing this year, probably 3 outings onto rock.  Here goes....

Top three boulder probs, UK
Big Green, Brimham
Murky Rib SDS, Brimham
Lancashire PotHot, Brownstones; re-sent after the loss of the flake

Err, that's it.

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#30 Re: Best of 2012
January 02, 2013, 01:10:14 pm
Top Three five boulder problems

Rock Atrocity - Felt very good to do this, a breakthrough
Hurricane - Such a cool move, feels great
Bus Stop - First Jerrys roof tick, done with the original cut loose too (Still easier but the photo of Jerry on NWB!)
Deliverance - Was very chuffed to get this, took a while too!
Brad Pitt/ The Storm - Can't decide out of the two, thinking the storm just edges it (No really bad pun intended)

Top 3 boulder problems put up

The prow/ Arete's in Tegness quarries (The pinnacle quarry), both 7A, both very cool, both at a good height, gutted no one other than 3 people (?) have been up there and tried them! (Better than Glass Slipper at Froggatt and very nearby!
Crack the Ripper SDS on the Gelli Boulder in North Wales. A cool stand up made better by a lock off to get the starting finger jam. Has probably been done before by a local but hey ho.
George Smiths boulder down and left of the Mallory Boulder. I think George climbed most of the lines here if not all but linking the traverse into the up lines was great and this block should see some attention.

Top 3 Spankings

Rock Atrocity Wobbly Block start - Compared to how quick RA went, this is a siege, was falling off the move to the pocket on Boxing day, a move that previously felt fine. Abit weird. Hopefully back in Feb time with better conditions...
Snatch - Split my fingers open so many times now trying to hold that jug, another few mm over and its in the bag. Still keen though.
Jerrys Roof - Just find this so hard. Haven't spent much time on it due to ego and pride but it just feels desperate. Too long!

A great year really!

Wil

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#31 Re: Best of 2012
January 02, 2013, 01:12:08 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK
I've done nothing of note in 2012 it seems. In fact, I can think of hardly any decent problems I did.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
The Rasp - harder than I expected! North West Arete at Gimmer, great jug hauling. Then The Pillar at Diabaig, which fortunately dried out just in time to tick before heading home. I didn't get on harder routes that I should have this year, but I've found it hard to get my onsighting head back on in the last 2 years. That's the key goal next year. Probably the best route of the year climbing wise was following Get Some In at St Govan's, totally stunning climbing and a great piece of climbing by my partner. I had a harder time than I should have following it, but what a route!

Top three sport routes UK
I did surprisingly little sport this year, but despite that I really felt it was finally my coming of age as a sport climber.
Top tick of the year was Another Toadside Attraction, I really enjoyed the climbing on this and it came together satisfyingly quickly.
I also finally did Sardine, in fairness this year was the first time I'd deliberately put the effort in. It was frustrating at first, but quickly got to the stage where I can lap it. I don't think it is really a route of the year for me, but it's always been something I regarded as a milestone.
Encore! Magnifique! at the Gap was a good tick to get, good climbing and it was only this year that I could do the crux consistently. This was a top tick as much for confirming that I'm stronger and better at redpointing than I used to be.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Don Quixote on the Marmolada. Biggest rock route I've ever done and we did it in good time, to adventure.
Messner Route on the 2nd Sella Tower - Brilliant route with tricky route finding and some good runouts, with the climbing hard enough to make you think.
Fiebra de Sur at Encantadas in Chorro. Great climbing and one I was pleased to onsight.

Top Spanking's
I didn't persist with many things long enough to get a real spanking. I had a terrible day trying A Little Extra at the Tor, resulting in a finger injury. I don't know how I didn't get it done? I also still haven't done Kudos, despite appearing to be very close.

JK

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#32 Re: Best of 2012
January 02, 2013, 02:19:53 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK
Ripple Effect/Green Nose - Brimham
Ben's Groove stand - Caley
Aurora - Roova

Top three two boulder probs, abroad
Le Fantastique - Ailefriode
A good 6a+ at Targassone (can’t remember the name)

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
None unless you count easy soloing (highball bouldering) at Slipstones and Goldborough Carr in which case some great new ones.

Top three sport routes UK
Crusin for a Bruisin - Yew Cogar
Hardy Annual - Kilnsey
Harry Tutle Heating Engineer, Giggleswick G Spot. A good boulder problem with a couple of bolts. Probably a poor sport route.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
A handful of steady sport routes at a crag near Bardonecchia on the French / Italian border. Can't remember names of routes or the crag.

Top three new route/prob put up
N/A

Top Spanking's
Lay-by-Arete - Slipstones. How many sessions now, is this actually impossible?
Dreamland - Almscliffe. Shit problem anyway ;)
West side story- Burbage. I'm starting to see a pattern on the type of boulder problems I can’t do.
Waite - Caley. After years of looking and not getting far, realised the proper way to do it and close but not quite.
The Maximum - Malham. One go up, couldn't do the hard moves, or even the easy section at the top. Didn't bother for a second look. Punter.

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#33 Re: Best of 2012
January 02, 2013, 03:19:56 pm
Top Spanking's
I didn't persist with many things long enough to get a real spanking. I had a terrible day trying A Little Extra at the Tor, resulting in a finger injury. I don't know how I didn't get it done? I also still haven't done Kudos, despite appearing to be very close.

<cough> Lyme Cryme ? just in case you'd forgotten  ;)

Bonjoy

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#34 Re: Best of 2012
January 02, 2013, 04:43:08 pm

Waite - Caley. After years of looking and not getting far, realised the proper way to do it...
Do tell. I hope it doesn't involve being 6 foot tall. Have never managed to pull on.

Wil

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#35 Re: Best of 2012
January 02, 2013, 05:11:45 pm
Top Spanking's
I didn't persist with many things long enough to get a real spanking. I had a terrible day trying A Little Extra at the Tor, resulting in a finger injury. I don't know how I didn't get it done? I also still haven't done Kudos, despite appearing to be very close.

<cough> Lyme Cryme ? just in case you'd forgotten  ;)

Er, yes. I think sitting on *that* bolt is probably a spanking... I'll settle that score in the spring.

Johnny Brown

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#36 Re: Best of 2012
January 02, 2013, 06:55:51 pm
Top boulder problem: Heaven in your hands, Brandrith.
Bagging such a classic line in quick time was great, but even better was going back the following weekend and throwing endless variation laps. One of the best problems in the WORLD.

Top semi-sport routes: Rainbow slab. Finally got round to climbing on this bit of rock (only my third day on slate ever), and it went perfectly. In a couple of hours I did Pull my Daisy, Poetry Pink, Cystitis by Proxy, Pete did Naked before the beast, and the ropes were never tested.

Top trad routes: Power of Lard, Snowpatch spire, Fingerberry jam, Pigeon feathers.
Classic granite face your fears and deal stuff, Ben got the '5.12' crux pitches, I got the old '5.11' workover. As usual, 5.12 meant E2 6b, 5.11 meant full on sustained E4/5. The 5.11 pitch on Fingers were the hardest pitch I led ll year, and poking my head round the little roof 20m up the big pitch on Lard will stay with me a while; 30m of 4-5" above and me with two cams left...

Top trad route: Seventh Rifle, North Howser tower.
Even nearly six months on this day is still a bit of a confusion of emotions, and from my state afterwards might better be classed as a top spanking. We didn't have enough food, we hadn't had enough rest, we climbed it for slightly strange reasons in light of moving goalposts, and it turned out to be 80% total choss. But there were some sublime moments, viewed objectively we put in a more than respectable performance, and it was probably the most satisfying summit of my life. Then made a good stab at killing myself on the descent, and emotions bubbled over...

Top spankings: Squamish
After my last trip here a few years back there were a few things I figured I could tidy up were I ever back in town: University Wall, Black Slabbath and Baba Hari Dass. Well it all went wrong on day 1 when I fluffed Perry's layback on the grand, and the rest of my performances were embarrassing. Next time I go on holiday I'll persuade my partner to let me rest more.
« Last Edit: January 02, 2013, 07:03:41 pm by Johnny Brown »

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#37 Re: Best of 2012
January 02, 2013, 08:21:11 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK
Jason's Roof 8A - An absolutely brilliant problem! I thought I was going to piss up it when I saw the size of the holds but it took a bit of work in the end.  A unique piece of gritstone.
Heaven In Your Hands 7C+? - A stunning arete in beautiful surroundings. A pleasure to climb. Much easier than it looks.
Who Needs Readybrek 7C - Get your crimp on! I bloody love the Roaches, so much to do there, I can't wait to get back.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
L'Etrave 7B+ - Tried this a couple of years ago and failed. Mr Napier to the rescue this time with some crucial beta!, that plus me realising that you have to bone the fuck out of that rat crimp!
La Baleine 7a+ - Happy with the flash considering the conditions. Classic!
Big Jim 6C+! - Sandbag, scary, classic.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
The Great Flake E6 - Onsight solo. Nearly fluffed it at the crux, great fun.
Rainbow Bridge 7A+ - The start of my very long stag weekend, I was feeling the 3 litres of white lightning that I drank on the way down!

Top three sport routes UK
Empire of the Sun 7b - Managed to flash this on the last day of my 3 day stag do! Hard work after eating nothing but chemicals and alcohol for 3 days! Messy!

Top new prob put up
Coming Up For Air 8A? - Can't believe I bagged this! Believe it or not I was actually trying to climb this until Littlefair told me to try jumping. Absolutely made up!  ;D

Top Spanking's
The Ace 8B - Ridiculously frustrating. Can throw laps on the Joker once I'm warm, so close but yet so far. Gangle fluked it ;)
Curious Yellow 8A - Never 7C+, utterly desperate.

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#38 Re: Best of 2012
January 02, 2013, 08:23:31 pm
.

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#39 Re: Best of 2012
January 02, 2013, 09:02:57 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK Local   :)
Mr. Universe Sit - Ptarmigan Alaska, 12 year project
Abomination - Hatcher Pass Alaska, Tall and proud :)
Solitary Confinement - Another 12 year project that went down.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Eden - Joe's Valley USA - fastest 7C+, Proof of the power of training (sort of abroad as I had to fly 2500 miles) :)

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Only finished 1 roped climb outside this year..... 

Top three sport routes UK
See above

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
see above

Top three new route/prob put up
See first list.

Top Spanking's
Pivot Point Arete Project - Had all the moves figured out, then broke a hold.  Rediscovered new beta, then ran out of MOJO.  Need to get back to it.

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#40 Re: Best of 2012
January 03, 2013, 11:35:48 am
No bouldering at all this year.

Top three trad routes UK

The Needle - Gogarth.  We went to do Scavenger but there was a queue.  Nearly fell off the top of the second pitch when my feet sketched leaving me with only one point of contact, got my feet back on and finished it with a healthy amount of adrenaline!  Brilliant route. 

Kubla Khan - Slate.  Have wanted to do this for ages.  Fell off moving above the bolt on my first go, but nailed it second time.

42nd Street - Chee Tor.  Scared high up.  Placed all my little wires early on so had to improvise with the gear a bit at the top.  Really good (and safe if I stop thinking about the fear) climbing, on my favourite Peak crag.

Top three sport routes UK

The Bloods - Pen Trwyn.  First 7a+ (is it really this hard?).  Was surprised how quick it went.  Only got on it as Axle Attack was wet.

Supermassive Black Hole - Slate.  Great big fun route out of a great big hole in the ground.

Lord Stublock Deepvoid Breaks the Chain of Causation/Burning Skies - Portland.  Can't remember which of these was best but they were both really enjoyable routes with good fun climbing on a good bit of rock.  And I fell off one of them, which I rarely do.  It's normally a whimper and slump onto a bolt.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

I went to Squamish for three weeks in the summer so three choices isn't really enough but lets see...

The Grand Wall - Brilliant.  First attempt failed after the Split Pillar, as it was windy, cold and we were in shorts and t-shirts (it's important for man to have an excuse after being turned over!)  Second attempt went fine.  Climbed the Split Pillar in much better style, Miss Arms did a fine onsight of The Sword pitch, I managed Perrys Layback by the skin of my teeth, and we finished it up the last 4 pitches of the Black Dyke.  It was our only route aim for the holiday and we were absolutely madde up to get it done.

The Great Game - 4 pitches of pure pleasure.  Pitch 1 is big and long but never hard and well safe.  Pitch 2 is easy but with nice climbing.  Pitch 3 is a cool corner with a bit of a runout and pitch 4 is wild moves (for the grade) in awesome position in space.  So much fun.

St Vitus Dance - So much fun.  I really started enjoying crack climbing on this one, even though I'm rubbish at it.  One of the first routes we did there so it really set the tone in terms of quality.

Top Spanking's

Rutabaga - Squamish.  Fell off the very last move on the last day of the holiday!  Took a big one and scraped and bruised myself quite a lot.  At least I was trying!

Solid Gold - Pen Trwyn.  I was too weak to really give it my best and too scared to fall off.  After fannying about getting pumped I did eventually fall off a couple of times and dogged/gibbered my way to the top.

Ximenes - Boulder Ruckle.  Brilliant route, my head was all over the place and needed rescuing off the second pitch by Miss Arms.  Very humbling...

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#41 Re: Best of 2012
January 03, 2013, 12:58:04 pm
It's a shame you can't include stuff you didn't actually manage to do as most of the best things I've been on this year fall into that category.  :-[ A close-but-no-cigar list would be completely different for all but trad!

Top three boulder probs, UK

Chaste, 6B+, Chasecliffe. I went from not being able to move on this to doing laps on it over 4 (I think) sessions. First time I realised that with the psyche and determination to train specifically I could progress like this and consequently the first time I 'got' bouldering. An amazing problem in my opinion too.

Below-break traverse, 6C+, Minus 10. Another multi-session solo siege. First at the grade and first tick of anything with a proper poor crimp on it.

Unnamed 6C+, Minus 10. Third go, straight after doing the traverse.   

Top three four trad routes/soloes UK

Seal Hunt, E1 5b, Mowingword. Absolutely fucking awesome! Done on the last day of a very fulfilling trip.

Love Bug, E1 5b, Brimham. Dropping my small nuts meant I soloed the majority of it totally gripped while a distraught mother yelled hysterically trying to find the small child she feared had fallen to his death. Atmospheric.

Suicide Wall, HVS 5b, Cratcliffe/ Original Route, HVS 5a, High Tor. Did not disappoint!

Top three sport routes UK

Consenting Adults, 7a, Malham. Sailed up it on redpoint after totally flailing on the every previous go. Massive pride at my first tick at Malham and first 7.

Booze Cruise, 6b+, Colehill Quarry. Not a great route by any means but a really good-feeling post-work onsight on the longest day of the year.

The Leading Line, 6c, Horseshoe Quarry. An even worse route but a few cool moves and felt good to do it.

Top three routes abroad in the Red

Spirit Fingers, .11c, Drive-by Crag. Hardest onsight yet. Really tried fucking hard on this one, a total power-endurance pumper on first-joint 'plates'. "I guess in Yurp they shake their whole bodies out instead of just their arms"  :lol:

Fuzzy Undercling, .11b, Military Wall. 12 hours off the plane I flashed this stunner- a slopey boulder problem leads to steep jug-pulling with a (vital for the first day of the trip) hands-off kneebar. My Ameriwad partners thought I was ace for getting this first go when they didn't. This was before they got their endurance and burnt me off day after day.

Different Strokes, .11c, The Gallery. Open-handed sidepulls with some Staffs-style thrutching at the top. I believe this is the only sport route I've ever sent second go.

Top Spankings

Loads. Gold Rush in the Red and Dead Banana Crack at Stoney are particular stand outs as I flipped upside down taking big falls off them.   :slap:

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#42 Re: Best of 2012
January 03, 2013, 01:21:43 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK

Not really bouldered much this year.

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Not really bouldered much this year.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Wuthering at Stanage
Big Crack at Froggatt
Original Route at Rivelin

Pleased with these as I decided to get my arse in gear and try more E2's this year, soft for the grade, but ain't that often the way when stepping up a notch.

Top three sport routes UK

Clipped bolts within these shores in a few places but nothing stands out.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Pisco (II/III) 5720m, Peru.
Pincitas (6a+ ***), Hatun Machay, Peru (bloody hard work at 4200m!)
Technocratas (6c ***) Sella, Espana. Wasn't too arsed about this route, but friend wanted to try red-pointing it, and rather than standing around belaying decided to have a go too, one rest on first top-rope, one rest on first go at leading it, then got up it by the skin of my teeth on the third go, first 6c.

Top three new route/prob put up

Not a pioneer.

Top Spanking's

I'm lazy and a) don't spend long enough on things I can't do to consider it a spanking  b) tend not to bother trying things I know are beyond me (but am starting to revise that, see above trad routes).
« Last Edit: January 03, 2013, 01:31:18 pm by slackline »

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#43 Re: Best of 2012
January 03, 2013, 01:41:32 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK
Didn't really boulder in the UK this year.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Some stuff in Font up to 7B, don't remember the names.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
1.  Gathering Sun - Nesscliffe
2.  Daylight Robbery - Reecastle
3.  Troutdale Pinnacle - Borrowdale

Top three sport routes UK
1.  Dreamtime - Kilnsey
2.  Dead Calm - Kilnsey
3.  Complete Control - Kilnsey

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
1.  Golpe de Gas - Terradets
2.  Fiesta de los Biceps - Riglos
3.  La Esfinge - Peru

Top three new route/prob put up
None.

Top Spanking's
1.  Bal de Triceps - Margalef
2.  Some 7c thing in a slate quarry in the lakes
3.  This student chick I hooked up with - some fifty shades of grey shit I think.

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#44 Re: Best of 2012
January 05, 2013, 02:28:22 am
Top three boulder probs, UK

The attitude inspector - south burbage (f7A)
Mermaid - North burbage (f7a)
Glass Hour - plantation (f7a)

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Graviton - La Roche aux Sabots (f7a)
pif paf - bas cuvier (f7a)
science friction - apremont (f5+)

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Nosferatu (E6 6b) - south burbage
Wee Doris (E4 5c) - stoney middleton
our farther (E4 6b) - stoney middleton

Top three sport routes UK

power of soul (Fr7b) - harpur hill quarry
victims of fashion (Fr7a+) - Battleship main
Jurassic shift (Fr7a) - Battleship main (bridging legs got more pumped than arms!

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

fiesta de los biceps (fr7a) - Riglos
El Zulú Demente (fr7a+) - Riglos
Alberto Rabadá o Murciana (Fr6c) - Riglos

Top Spanking's

Got caught out abseiling off the Riglos tower. Winds wrapped the ropes and got them stuck, didn't get off the cliff till 6 in the mourning spent the entire night no head-torch or coat.

Kelly's Overhang (HVS 5b) - stanage high neb

Quietus (E2 5c) - stanage high neb

Andy F

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#45 Re: Best of 2012
January 06, 2013, 07:04:17 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK

Vitruvian Man (Trowbarrow). First time I've properly sieged a bloc. Could do the first move on the first day, took another 4 to top out (thanks to the power of psyche provided by an unrepentant man child).
Jack Daniels/Ain't no party (Pill Box). First time I'd broken the 7B+ barrier, 2 goes after the original.
Runs on Weasel (Little Font). Great compression moves.

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Didn't get abroad. Unless you count Wales.

Top three trad routes/soloes Uk

Did one VS at Dunnerholme, not sure if it counts

Top three sport routes UK

Very poor year for this. Only did 3 routes, so it'll have to be them.

Flowers for the dead (Dinbren)
Mudjekeewis (Llanddulas Cave)
Sticky Fingers (Llanddulas Cave)

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

None

Top three new route/prob put up

None

Top Spanking's

Left Wall High (Cave of Justice). Why can I not do this? Stamina has disappeared, like the sun in a British 'summer'.
When Saturday Comes (Dinbren). It's only 7c FFS. Stupid errors.
Air Rage (Kilnsey). Feels nails for 7c. Surely 7c+.


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#46 Re: Best of 2012
January 06, 2013, 09:02:43 pm
Not really my ‘Best of 2012’ more like my entire 2012.

Top three boulder probs, UK
West Side Story 7b+/c – I remember when I first moved to Sheffield years ago sieging this until my fingers bled, gave it up as impossible.  A 15 year break coupled with a nice cold morning saw it sent. Turns out it ain’t so bad after all.
eatswood Traverse 7b+
Few other bits and bobs but nothing quality.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Most of Red Circuit at Isatis. Can’t recall which were best but a beautiful sunny morning in the forest. Had the place to myself.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Traffic Jam  E5, Stoney – Tested the dodgy friend placement in the slot and yes it does blow out.
Calamity Crack  E4, Running Hill Pits – Took a repeat visit to nail this! Part 1 of the ‘Pete and Donnie do America’ training plan.
Bob Hope E4, Dovestones. – Part2. Great route but we opted to do ‘just one more’ route (some thrutchy E2 next to it) and encountered the single worst midge attack in history.  I was chocking on midge soup.  It did however allow me to discover the very best cure for midge bites…Benadryl (cream or pills or in my case both).  Amazing stuff!

Top three sport routes UK
Mecca 8b+ It dried properly for just one day in March … and I was ready.
Weed Killer Chimes 8b,  Another nemesis destroyed.
Frankie 7b+, Kilnsey – O/S. 

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
None

Top three new route/prob put up
None

Top three spankings
Dialetics 8a+ Tor.  Despite pissing all the moves skin and injuries ensured no tick. 
Seraphim 8b+++ Those aren’t even foot holds.
Mecca Extension 8c , was all going so well until some fat lad pulled of the perfectly good glued hold and some skinny lad said it ain’t going back on. Now I can’t even imagine my way across that traverse.

Duma

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#47 Re: Best of 2012
January 06, 2013, 09:04:33 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK
West Side Story, Burbage. Needs no comment.
Western Eyes, Burbage. So pleased to have such a great problem as my first of the grade.
The Alliance, Burbage. Felt worth it's original E4 at the top!
Top three boulder probs, abroad
L'Etrave, JA Martin. A dirty crimp, but what a line!
Ou Are You?, Cuvier Rempart. Big, crux at top, but good landing - ace!
La Baleine, Petit Bois. Wanted to do this for years, seen pictures for so long, but always seemed to end up somewhere else. Didn't dissapoint.
Top three trad routes/soloes Uk
N/A
Top three sport routes UK
Ooo, I did some this year!
Rave Party, Cheddar. First time on a string for three years so pretty memorable, good position on the arete high in the gorge too.
Mescalito, Cheddar. The other route that day. Nothing special really, but second go felt good for something given 7c
Twangy Pearl, Portland. Failed miserably on this, but I've been on so few routes this year, and it was really good.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
N/A
Top three new route/prob put up
N/A
Top Spanking's
Mossatrocity, Padley Gorge. I think borking my wrist for over 6 months including stopping me climbing entirely for 3months counts as a pretty comprehensive spanking.

tommytwotone

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#48 Re: Best of 2012
January 06, 2013, 09:28:18 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK

Adults Only, Stanage. And thanks to Slackers for the quality photo of me on it!
Red Baron, Shipley Glen. Came out of nowhere - could barely pull on, was going to sack it but one more go and I'd done it.
Barry Kingsize, Crookrise. On a day off in the week with only one other person around. Amazing place.

Top three boulder probs, abroad

One trip to Font thwarted by unseasonably high temps - high 20s in March meant not much tickage happened.

Top three trad routes/solos UK

Didn't do any routes whatsoever in 2012!

Top three sport routes UK

See above.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

And again...

Top three new route/prob put up

Nope...

Top Spankings

Big Jim, Petit Bois. Oh for an extra couple of inches of reach (or probably bravery to just jump it).
Demon Wall Roof continues to frustrate.
« Last Edit: January 06, 2013, 09:41:08 pm by tommytwotone »

TN080

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#49 Re: Best of 2012
January 06, 2013, 10:19:05 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK
Tricky to pick three but these stand out…
Queen Kong Sitter 8A/+ – Mint! Been on the list for years and done just before I left the North.
Malc’s Arete 7A+!!! (7B+) – Worth the drive. Scotland trip was one of my favourite bouldering trips I’ve done.
Keen Roof 8B – Not the best problem of the year, but the best feeling when hitting the finish hold. Took 6 sessions but was worth it.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Only been to Font this year…
Sur Prise 7B+ , Font – wanted to do this for years.
Neverland 8A,  Font – weird but wonderful. Been a goal for years to climb 8A in Font.
Respire 7C+, Font – my style and the best style… compression, big moves, good holds, steep!

Top three sport routes UK
Anstey’s Rules!!
Tuppence Ha’penny 8b/+. – best route in UK?
Postman Pat 8a+ – cool line that cuts straight across the immense wall.
Empire of the Sun 7b– the best warm-up/down route ever!

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Just one trip away to Frankenjura this year…
Misery 8a+, Jura – unusual climbing through a cool feature, basically bouldering on a rope.
Ekel 7c+– Jura, steep and fun. Unfinished business from years ago.
Hilti Syndrome 8a+, Jura – big moves on big holds, steep and managed to fag my way through the crux.

Top three new route/prob put up
Trailer Trash 7C+, St Bees – Psyched to get the FA if such a cool line in the North West
The end is Nigh 8A, Hartland – Amazing climbing, amazing feature.
Non- conformist 7C, Lucky Hole – Epic approach but worth it. Climbs kinda like Lou Ferrino but in an awesome setting.

Top Spanking's
Floating Points, Osho, and all moorland Granite problems. 

 

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