[duncan]

M - Rest day
T - Guaria, OSing to  6b+.  Tried Haceros inoxidables (7a+ or 7b in different guides). The meat of this was 20m slightly overhanging pumpout. Got to millimeters from the thank-god jug on the onsight before dropping it, then couldn’t get to my highpoint after an hour’s rest!  Christmas day climbing 
W - Did a 6a+, felt burnt-out, rested
T - Rest day
F - Back to Guaria.  Scorchio!  Warm-ups to 6b+ felt desperate, couldn’t even get the first move of Haceros... Slept the rest of the day.
S - More sleep.  Drove to airport, couldn’t find passport, frantic phonecalls all fruitless, missed flight, got bus to Santa Cruz de Tenerife and sort out accommodation, all not very restful
S - Trying to sort out emergency travel documents on a public holiday.  Watch this space...

Several lessons to learn from this week. Last week’s plan was to “onsight 50 routes; find a 7b that suits my strengths ... and redpoint it”. Even as I wrote this I realised these were contradictory aims! I badly need to sort out my redpoint tactics. 

I was recovering from a nasty virus at the start of the trip, got a bit over-enthusiastic at the sight of dry rock and a yellow thing in the sky, and didn’t pace myself.  Predictably, I crashed. 

I’ve always taken a long time to recover from a big (usually onsight) effort.  Any tips on improving this? 

On the positive side, I’ve had trips not long ago when I never did anything harder than 6b.  I feel like I’m in a good place to be starting 2013: strong enough for many standard E5s, pretty happy to climb above gear, and can plod away for a some time if the rock is at trad. steepness. 

Plan: focus training more on local aerobic endurance, keep the anerobic endurance topped-up, add some cardiovascular stuff in anticipation of big days next summer, get outdoors as life allows, plan and negotiate trips for Easter and Summer.   
 
STG: Get home, recuperate
MTG: E5 onsight, RP 7b
LTG: LH&F goals in Switzerland, Dolomites, US

[shark]

Thanks Duncan - bad luck on the onsight

11.9-10

Mon. AM 5K Park run in 26mins - not run since Sept. 
Tues.
Weds. Weighted Deadhangs. Close to doing a full set @ 40kg 
Thurs. PM. eatswood. Short visit. Just worked on second half. No better links but fingers felt stronger.   
Fri.
Sat. AM 5K Park Run with Poppy in miserable weather. Legs still stiff from Monday. Went back to bed. PM Weighted deadhangs. Overcooked it attempting 42.5kgs and was burnt after first hang. Did some assisted 1 armers.
Sun. PM. Foundry with boys. 2 hours. Bouldered on Wave and dabbled on the campus board. Good session.       

Had a lovely family Christmas - eleven in the house. Goodbye 2012. Might not have achieved much but optimistic about the year ahead (weather permiting) to cash in on the strength gains.

[nai]

mtw - xmas, guests, excesses, etc (although woke first on Tue and managed a good core workout before the kids stirred)
T - shamed into a workout by coach Randall's twitter post about slackers losing their gains. (sub)Max(imal) hangs.  Felt hard
F - 6x4 Repeaters, felt really strong - odd
s
S - a pass arrived at 2pm, headed hopefully to Secret Garden, LHM not in great nick but dry, should have walked away but had a few goes, struggled to high point a couple of times . Sacked it to await better nick, went home & did some max hangs hit a PB +10kg on the low slots.

[tomtom]

Been away in Normandie for most of the week for family Xmas shizzle.. I scoped out a couple of local bouldering places, but the weather wasnt the greatest...



Returned on Fri/Sat - went to Logport wall on Sat lunchtime, pulled on - ached, creaked, sweated then started shivering. Went home after 40 min and that night spent most of the night with a fever of some sort (that seems to have passed without shitting, vomiting or flu.. yet..)...

[fried]

My week looked like TT's vid.

Monday-Saturday - Sat on various sofa and slowly ate and drank myself into oblivion. Managed a 1h walk in the rain. Stretched my back a bit. Put on nearly 2kg.

Sunday - Indoor session, hum.

[iain]

STG: Rehab finger
MTG: 3 7c+/8a between Jan-March

Week 149:

M: Rest
T: Poor fingerboard sesh, not recovered from weekend I think
W: Local wall, boulders to 7A. Managed to tweak RH middle finger. Think it's a collatoral ligament thing
T: Rest finger
F: Rest finger
S: Morning FB session avoiding any finger pain. Felt good. Travel to Kandersteg
S: Go skiing for the first time in 4 years  I'm rubbish but it's a lot of fun

Week 150:
M: More beginner skiing and doorframe hangs. Finger ok
T: Food, child entertainment/herding, food/booze, nap, food/booze crash
W: Skiing lesson then brilliant day in perfect conditions putting it into practice. Doorframe hangs. Finger still ok
T: Child entertainment/herding. doorframe hangs managing half crimp without finger pain.
F: Adelboden to ski in low light with lots of fresh snow. Previous days skills had vanished and spent day most of the day snow plowing following better half as she cruised around.
S: Travel home
S: Cuttings to get back on Under Duress. Putting clips up, pulled on half way through crux and climbed to top feeling good. Lowering down to repeat first half of crux just to check moves and find myself flying and looking down to see my partner ducking his head as he's showered with fragments. The crystal crimp on the crux has just disintegrated on me  Bollocks. It revealed green growth behind it, only a matter of time till someone pulled it off, just had to be me just before a redpoint.
Went back to my old, slightly harder, sequence that only used the first crimp as an intermediate on a longer move to the second and had a couple of redpoints, but discover that the move is much harder for me without it and I can't reliably latch the second (now first) crimp on the bulge. (It might not affect others so much)

Gutted about the hold coming off, I was feeling confident until that happened. What we could find of the crimp is in bits at the bottom and we couldn't piece together enough to make it look like it's old self. I'm not fussed about trying to put it back anyway, there would be more sika than crimp and it's still climbable as it is.

Also finished the day and realised the finger was sore again. Rehab and gentle climbing this week.

[csl]

Signed up for a challenge on the internet this week so ended up running 50 miles between Monday-Sunday. Last couple of runs where pretty painful as missing a day or 2 hungover led to a half marathon followed by 2 10k+'s from friday- sunday

At least it taught me where my limits are, my previous highest mileage week was about 15miles.

Went to biscuit factory today, just climbing easy circuits but repeated a few harder Greens and Reds and managed the crux of the Green Circuit.

Last day of 2012 - heres to more climbing in the new year.

@iain - gutted about pulling the hold off! Hope you manage to get it done anyway!

[cheque]

Week 149

M- Rest
T- Notts Depot- working remaining comp problems- Didn't do a single one! 
W- Rest
T- Notts Depot- did one of the remaining comp problems and made progress on another but feeling very weak and tired. Joined group core session at the end instead of climbing- still felt exhausted but rested arms at least.
F- Rest
S- Beastmaker pull-up pyramid, dumbell shoulder stuff, pushups.
S- Rest

Week 150

M- Beastmaker pull-up pyramid.
T- Nothing. Lots of food.
W- Nothing. Lots of food.
T- 4-mile run in morning, kept up with girlfriend fine but declined second lap. Depot PM w/GF- did a couple of the new yellows but crashed like fuck very early- actually out of breath while climbing! It seems running then climbing is a bad idea.
F- Traditional holiday season sore throat.
S- Nothing. Traditional holiday season sore throat.
S- Nothing. Traditional holiday season sore throat.
 

[Duma]

STG - keep up various injury rehab stuff, start running again, get in proper shape for MTG
MTG - multiple 7C's this winter, 7C+. looking pretty optimistic now.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M -
T -
W - up at 2:45 for 4hr commute cornwall - swindon for 12hr shift 
T - work, sleep
F - work sleep
S - TCA with family - good fun, Clo enjoyed her Elderid Crocs she got for christmas, and her mum had fun on her first time climbing for several years. Did a few of the new Red (6B - 7B+) circuit - was based on the comp from before christmas so have done a few already.
S - swim with family - very relaxed, but managed a few lengths.

Still under 70kg when I got back from Cornwall, amazingly.