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SE indoor bouldering with ventilation- Help please! (Read 15497 times)

i.munro

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Help! Are there any walls in/around London that still have a door/window/vent anything open to let in some air &
some ok-ish setting?

 Getting desperate enough to consider starting the trek to Mile End again.

Durbs

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Craggy 2 is usually pretty frosty this time of year; back door left open, windows open around the top.

Are you looking for low temps or low dust?

Best setting in London I reckon

i.munro

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Best setting in London I reckon

Thanks I'd agree about the setting & that was my usual weekend spot  until they started closing  both door & windows & having heaters on
about this time last year. I haven't been back since.  It'd be good to know they haven't started that game yet as I've got several visits pre-paid?

I'm after non-slipperyness. Dave Mac reckons (heat/humidity) is  a factor in injury & I'm fairly sure he's right. I'd rather get the surgery on my current injury finished before collecting any more.

I suspect low humidity is more important than low temps but happy to get both.
« Last Edit: November 13, 2012, 04:40:52 pm by i.munro »

Stubbs

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Dave Mac reckons (heat/humidity) is  a factor in injury & I'm fairly sure he's right.

Eh?  easier to get injured in a cold wall from not working up surely?  unless you are saying that perhaps you are more likely to get injured from slipping off unexpectedly?

i.munro

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   unless you are saying that perhaps you are more likely to get injured from slipping off unexpectedly?
I asked him to clarify what he said here

http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.ca/2012/08/another-good-injury-story.html

& that's apparently what he meant. Certainly fits with my recent injury pattern.

From my own recent  experience, I'd add that being forced to wear shorts (which I hate) in a wall by the heat can also be the difference between going home with a bruised leg & six hours in A&E, a scar & a permanent numb area on your leg.

Baldy

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If you find somewhere, please let me know.

Craggy 1 is a joke on a busy night, I was there today and it was grim. Yesterday though - it was definitely bearable (all be it with shorts on and tops off)
SSP is not godawful since it is pretty empty most of the time...but if it *is* hot, then you are stuffed for ventilation options due to tops on rule and no vents.
Reading can be alright, but I havent been for ages. Depends if they turn on those vile heating machines...
Evo is crap, but cold...good for training.

slackline

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From my own recent  experience, I'd add that being forced to wear shorts (which I hate) in a wall by the heat can also be the difference between going home with a bruised leg & six hours in A&E, a scar & a permanent numb area on your leg.

If your foot slipped and the resulting injury was serious enough to warrant an A&E trip I seriously doubt that not wearing shorts would have been of any use whatsoever. ::)

Durbs

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Well, as of last week they hadn't turned the heaters on at Craggy 2, and it's a pretty self-service approach there on a quiet night - can always turn the heaters on/off if there's a general consensus, and they've also got 2 big fans to move the air around.

The outdoor temps aren't so low that it's hard to warm up so things might change in a few weeks, but it's all good so far.

granticus

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How about this for a change, ventilation is very good.

http://www.peeruk.org/projects/frankland/john-frankland.html

Baldy

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Probably better than southern Sandstone at least... ::)

i.munro

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Well, as of last week they hadn't turned the heaters on at Craggy 2, ...., but it's all good so far.

Thanks. Good to know. So that's a weekend venue sorted at least for a while. (plus an option for dry evenings granticus).


Anyone know of anything a bit nearer to London that'd be viable after work on wet days?

i.munro

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[/quote]

If your foot slipped and the resulting injury was serious enough to warrant an A&E trip I seriously doubt that not wearing shorts would have been of any use whatsoever. ::)
[/quote]


No way of knowing for sure but the injury was a long gash (sn**ger !) which needed stitches. I'm  fairly sure by preferred choice of
jeans would have prevented ths. I'd still have had a nasty bruise but that's all.

Ti_pin_man

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white spider seems pretty good for ventilation so far.  Its a big space so seems pretty good. 

slackline

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No way of knowing for sure but the injury was a long gash (sn**ger !) which needed stitches. I'm  fairly sure by preferred choice of
jeans would have prevented ths. I'd still have had a nasty bruise but that's all.

Fair-do's sounds dodgy if there was something that sharp around though, and deep enough to require stitches could easily have ripped denim.

i.munro

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[sounds dodgy if there was something that sharp around though, and deep enough to require stitches could easily have ripped denim.

It was a bit of a freak incident. Never done or even seen anything like it before. I was trying to work out whether there was something sharp that I'd hit straight after it happened. Then I decided my time would be better occupied by lying down & bleeding a lot. ;D

Protection isn't the reason I hate climbing in shorts,  that's due to kneebars & stuff but it can help on the odd occasion.

slackline

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   unless you are saying that perhaps you are more likely to get injured from slipping off unexpectedly?
I asked him to clarify what he said here

http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.ca/2012/08/another-good-injury-story.html

& that's apparently what he meant. Certainly fits with my recent injury pattern.


There are other things that can help.  Including the ubiquitous MTFU and get on with it.

i.munro

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  Including the ubiquitous MTFU and get on with it.


Well that's the approach that keeps putting me in hospital  so I think I'm going to try
GTFU instead.

abarro81

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Protection isn't the reason I hate climbing in shorts,  that's due to kneebars & stuff but it can help on the odd occasion.

Get involved with the pads trend - they work better with shorts than trousers.

i.munro

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   MTFU and get on with it.

Thinking about it this is a really odd attitude. In what other area of life would you keep on paying over & over for a crap product?

"My local takeaway  gave me food poisoning. Again" " You should just MTFU & go back"

Monk

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Why is it that every time I see your name, it is complaining about the temperature of walls?!

Anyway, I don't know if Reading is too far out for you, but if you get there soon after it opens it is bloody freezing in the winter (although you will have to stay away from the walls facing the awful "gushing out instant sweaty conditions" heaters). I normally don't find the cold a problem, and even enjoy it, but last weekend it took me over an hour of solid bouldering before my fingers felt properly warmed up!

Dr T

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Just got back from Craggy Guildford - and frankly it was on of the most dispiriting session ever....
or it would be if I didn't take everything I (don't) do there with half a ton of salt.

It was sauna hot with no fans on and the grades... the grades...
well even the staff were having a hard time defending them!

So today I was struggling on problems a whole number grade below what I can climbing in a session outside (and on a good day even on-sight) - grease and heat didn't help and made the general experience rather poor but that was, as ever that was half the story.

Now I know it's "not all about grades" and "indoors is just training" but actually when you live in the grim South (and have a six day a we job and a young family as I do) indoors is as close as we get to "actually climbing" a lot of the time so it is important....

So back to the board and wait for the next peak trip I guess... at least if that's rained out there's always the works....



i.munro

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Could you move to craggy Sutton? Like I say, haven't been for a year but I always found the grades to be both internally & , amazingly, externally consistent.

Baldy

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Craggy 2 is an extra hours drive away from where we are based in the SE, so not really a goer unless there is a specific reason to make the journey (comps etc.)

The people that set at guildford are the same that set at Sutton, so mayhaps the grading at Sutton is done differently?

I feel like Guildford takes the joke about their sandbag grades a little too far at time though.
A 6A warmup boulder shouldnt feel like a 6C boulder...
And when it takes me multiple attempts on a straightforward 6B before I can evn do all the moves, let alone on a link...
 :-\

I agree, indoors shouldnt necessarily be about the grade, but that isnt a reason/excuse for ballsing up your grading that badly.

 :offtopic: (has anyone had a go on their green traverse...optimistically given 6C I think, but I'm not convinced anyone has climbed the middle move.)

Jaspersharpe

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Are they using English tech grades but not telling anyone?

Baldy

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The 7c's are hard enough.

 

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