[slackline]

Awkward and time consuming for someone to collate the information from forum posts so I knocked up a quick survey for people to complete and will do some analysis once N >= 30 and report back.

[rodma]

Awkward and time consuming for someone to collate the information from forum posts so I knocked up a quick survey for people to complete and will do some analysis once N >= 30 and report back.

Have filled out as best as i could. Never really tried to hang a really small edge or onsight/redpoint sport (not in the last ten years anyway)

Thanks for setting it up 

Oops, just realised i filled out the max hang bit for one-handed. Have never tried to max out two handed.

[slackline]

Its not essential that every field is complete (bar height, weight and boulder grades), but the more data the better (avoids having to throw instances out due to missing data or having to rely on multiple imputation).

Should probably add (to save me the hassle of having to clean the data) there is no need to enter units, just make sure they're entered as requested (i.e. don't use Imperial).

If there's a field you don't have a value for just leave it blank, no 'na' as that then requires a string to be converted to numeric (which is easy but a pain to have to do, annoyingly Google Forms doesn't have the option to specify a field as numeric, only text.

And I don't believe that someones height and weight are both '10' 

[Sasquatch]

Height - 186cm
Weight - 75 kg
Fingers - +10KG deadhang on large BM hold.
Can hold second to smallest crimps on a BM (consistently)
Pull ups - weighted c.10KG, no lock off on one arm.

Boulder - 7B+ max, 7A/+ ish in a session

Which BM?  1000 or 2000?

[Nibile]

Wow, good work Slackline.
I only have a few data available though.

[slackline]

Not a problem, but if you want to hold back on entering data until you can get some of the others that would make it a bit easier.

I guess people can submit data more than once as I intend to remove duplicate entries based on height and weight as I'd be surprised if there are many people with exactly the same metrics for both of these, but it would be easier if people do intend to get more benchmarking done if they could hold back and enter everything at once.

[Nibile]

Yes I was thinking about it.

[Stubbs]

Nice one Slackers, should be interesting if you get enough responses!

[slackline]

Ok, I've added a "name" field just so I can identify multiple entries (so please use the same name if you're making a second entry!).

Doesn't have to be your real name could use UKB or something completely anonymous if you don't want to be identified.

And entries should be current.

[mark s]

going to do mine again as i put my bests i have done,i have no current sport grades.

[Sasquatch]

Just filled mine in.  I just read part of the request.  I put 0 in for the ones where I can't do any (i.e. one armers).  Hope that was OK.  I din't put N/A in any of them.

[slackline]

going to do mine again as i put my bests i have done,i have no current sport grades.

Cheers good to know I can work out which to keep.

Just filled mine in.  I just read part of the request.  I put 0 in for the ones where I can't do any (i.e. one armers).  Hope that was OK.  I din't put N/A in any of them.

Zero's fine for numeric fields, but don't worry too much I can clean things up in the end.

[tomtom]

Height - 186cm
Weight - 75 kg
Fingers - +10KG deadhang on large BM hold.
Can hold second to smallest crimps on a BM (consistently)
Pull ups - weighted c.10KG, no lock off on one arm.

Boulder - 7B+ max, 7A/+ ish in a session

Which BM?  1000 or 2000?

1k..

[mark s]

My first entry,just scrap the whole thing.I've put 0 in all fields with no answer.I went the roaches at the weeked and did a 6c so that's my only recent climbing I can enter. I don't have fingerboards to hang off but door frames will do .

[nai]

Zero's fine for numeric fields, but don't worry too much I can clean things up in the end.

Wouldn't having to do that trigger a slack-rant if you had to do it for work?   

[slackline]

Zero's fine for numeric fields, but don't worry too much I can clean things up in the end.

Wouldn't having to do that trigger a slack-rant if you had to do it for work?   

Yep, because there is supposedly a data management team who are meant to take care of that, but they're useless.  Theres a relational database in place, and can I query it using SQL over an ODBC connection?  Can I fuck, the "export" just dumps each of the tables out to ASCII CSV files and I then have to recreate the relationships between the data as needed.  Really what is the point in having a relational database if you can't query it intelligently? 

  Guess I fell for that one! 

My first entry,just scrap the whole thing.I've put 0 in all fields with no answer.I went the roaches at the weeked and did a 6c so that's my only recent climbing I can enter. I don't have fingerboards to hang off but door frames will do .

Cheers Mark, not a problem.

[slackline]

Font grades please none of these 'V' grades (andi_e!)

[shark]

Good idea Slackers. I've split the topic off and added it to the front page to raise the profile / response

[abarro81]

You might get more useful responses using beastmaker holds rather than wanting to know how deep the edge people can hang is. I for one don't have a clue what depth any hold is but do know what I can/can't hold on a beastmaker..

[andy_e]

Indoor grades are a load of bollocks anyway.

[shark]

You might get more useful responses using beastmaker holds rather than wanting to know how deep the edge people can hang is.

+1

[slackline]

You might get more useful responses using beastmaker holds rather than wanting to know how deep the edge people can hang is.

+1

Well my reasoning was simply that not everyone has a beastmaker but anyone can take a ruler/tape measure to their fingerboard (or the one at the wall) and find out the depth of the smallest hold they use, thus making it a more generalised survey.

Given there are now 34 survey completers it would be perhaps too onerous a task to reset the questions and ask everyone to do it again.

If this were at work then the Case Report Form (the survey) would have been piloted and undergone a number of revisions, but its not a formal epidemiological study and just a quick survey for a bit of fun, albeit with some formal structure.

Indoor grades are a load of bollocks anyway.

 

[shark]

You might get more useful responses using beastmaker holds rather than wanting to know how deep the edge people can hang is.

+1

Well my reasoning was simply that not everyone has a beastmaker but anyone can take a ruler/tape measure to their fingerboard (or the one at the wall) and find out the depth of the smallest hold they use, thus making it a more generalised survey.

Given there are now 34 survey completers it would be perhaps too onerous a task to reset the questions and ask everyone to do it again.

Fair points

[slackline]

Good idea Slackers. I've split the topic off and added it to the front page to raise the profile / response

Cheers, I think I'll write everything up and put results on the Wiki.  I'll also leave the survey open permanently and once I've written scripts for the analysis will be able to update things easily as the sample size increases. 

[Dexter]

done it but dont bench/deadlift and have no idea how long i can hang edges/how much weight i can pull up.
Also not done sport for a while so mine probably looks a bit weird