[ukb]

Where: Raven Tor

When: 10am Sunday 14th October

What will happen: BMC Technical Officer Dan Middleton and experienced bolters from the Peak Bolt Fund will demonstrate and discuss how to bolt safely, and cover the key issues involved. We'll then put theory into practice and re-equip some routes at the crag.

What to bring: any bolting equipment you may have, ab rope, climbing gear, old clothes

Who is it for: experienced climbers who want to get involved in re-equiping sport routes in the Peak, and would like to learn more about bolting.

Confirm your attendance by emailing Dan Middleton at dan@thebmc.co.uk

[shark]

If anyone has a hilti battery for a TE-6 drill can they bring it, or lend it to me for the day (or even sell it).

Cheers


ps Is it possible to recondition old batteries?

[SamT]

Worth asking that question on the sister site shark,

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

[shark]

Worth asking that question on the sister site shark,

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

Good thought. Didnt realise it was the caver's weapon of choice too.

[Johnny Brown]

Who's got the PBF drill at the mo? Would a pull-tester be useful or have you already got one?

[Bonjoy]

Kristian has the drill I think. Pull rig would be useful I reckon.

[SamT]

Derbyshire Caving association has a pull tester that I may be able to borrow. 

[Johnny Brown]

I can bring ours down or lend it out no probs. Worth showing folk the failure mode, and the old 6kN for 15 secs industry test can give a bit of piece if mind for any new bolters. Though assuming you'll mainly be using resin there'll be some waiting involved....

[kc]

If anyone has a hilti battery for a TE-6 drill can they bring it, or lend it to me for the day (or even sell it).

The peak bolt fund had the same drill but it died/killed, was lent around and gang raped.
We got a decent drill now for a little more than the cost of fixing a drill that was not really up to the task anyway. TE-6 would be busting a bollock to drill 16mm which is the size of the bolt we mainly use.
You best mate GG has got it now for spare parts.

[kc]

There is a lot to cover so don't expect to spend too long doing any testing with a pull rig, just take a walk into Horseshoe and see all the mangled bolts on the quarry floor or read this first.
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/anchor-report-published-by-technical-committee

[Neil F]

If anyone has a hilti battery for a TE-6 drill can they bring it, or lend it to me for the day (or even sell it).

The peak bolt fund had the same drill but it died/killed, was lent around and gang raped.

Can you clarify that please Kris?

We got a decent drill now for a little more than the cost of fixing a drill that was not really up to the task anyway. TE-6 would be busting a bollock to drill 16mm which is the size of the bolt we mainly use.

Can you clarify that too, please Kris?

You best mate GG has got it now for spare parts.

Pardon.....?

Neil

[kc]

OOps, sorry Neil. I have sent you an explanation.

[danm]

OK, just to confirm that this is going ahead as planned. If you plan to go to Raven Tor to climb on Sunday, expect some potential disruption as some routes will be being re-equipped. We'll avoid exacerbating parking issues by dropping kit off and parking up Tideswell Dale way.

If you have a problem with this sorry, but re-equipping isn't ideally done in conditions far different from those suitable for climbing, and those involved don't necessarily have the luxury of many free weekends either.

If any of the PBF guys have a list of stuff they know needs doing, posting it on here will give folks an idea of what may be out of commisssion for the day.

[danm]

A big thanks to all the people who turned up for this successful event. Kristian and Jon were total legends for giving up a precious day off and giving the benefit of their wisdom and experience about all things bolting. Working around the other climbers enjoying their day at the crag, a decent number of bolts and belays were replaced with long life glue-ins. I'll try and get a summary together to go on the Routes Re-Equiped thread of what was done. Thanks guys!

[SamT]

Beat me to it!

Was going to thank Dan, Kristian and jonboy for giving up their sundays.     Good to get some seriously manky bolts and belays replaced. 

PS - Apologies to anyone who was about to launch into their crux only to get deafened and showered in drilled limestone dust.  I was pretty absorbed in what I was doing so was kinda un-aware of folks that might have been climbing around me.  soz 

[danm]

I'm just going over my notes for the day, it looks like we replaced the belayers bolt for Revelations, a new belay and most of the bolts for P2 of Rooster Booster, and some new belays and bolts where needed for some of the routes at the R-hand side. I may need correcting here, but I think Hot Flushes got a new crux bolt, Hooligan got fully re-equipped as did Out of My Tree. A great atmosphere at the crag, we managed to work around people climbing without causing too much interuption.

[Bonjoy]

Nearly correct. OOMT got an extra bolt where a hold loss had made the runout between 2nd and 3rd rather nasty. Dialectics got rebolted and a proper belay added (previously it lowered of a single bolt/krab).
Good effort to everyone who turned up. Hope you found it useful. 

[shark]

Thanks everyone who came out.

Re the tor the following still could do with replacing:

- First bolt on Push-Up (and maybe another one to protect start for those who dont have a clipstick?)
- A bolt on Kabaah (according to Awesome)
- Belay and top 3 ? bolts on Tin Of
- Belay for pitch one of the Prow
- A bolt at the start of Prow pitch 3 (hanger is off a bolt up there according to Sam W)
- New belay for Revelations?
- Angle grind stubs out of Indecent

I'm happy to do this work BTW with the PBF gear.
 

[nai]

What size spanner do the hanger style bolts need? There's a couple of loose ones on Obscene Toilet and Call Of Nature.

[shark]

What size spanner do the hanger style bolts need? There's a couple of loose ones on Obscene Toilet and Call Of Nature.

An adjustable one 

[nai]

Really? Would have thought the umph needed to get a nut properly tight on a bolt wouldn't be possible with an adjustable, probably just end up rounding the nut off. Could be just my history with poor quality adjustables though.

[Johnny Brown]

Whenever I've had to torque bolts up at work I'm always surprised by the low torque setting required. The idea is it should just be tight enough not to work loose, without putting the bolt itself in constant tension. I guess higher torque would be required for sport bolts, but there's no need to go mad.

[Bonjoy]

Expansion bolts shouldn't be overtightened as you risk pulling the wedge bit too far through the sleeve.
Loose nuts/hangers often are a result of a bolt's position meaning it frequently takes loads from multiple directions. In these cases re-tightening will only work for a while then it will get loose again. Best bet is to use a nylock nut or put loctite on the threads.
The bolt on CoN is 12mm, so whatever the spanner size for that is (I forget but I'm sure google will remember)

[kc]

What size spanner do the hanger style bolts need? There's a couple of loose ones on Obscene Toilet and Call Of Nature.

For the common size of  expansion bolt 10mm a No17 spanner or the 12mm bolt a No19 is required. BTW none of the expansion bolts of Call of Nature are stainless. Also the best way to combat loose hangers is to not have any.

[shark]

Really? Would have thought the umph needed to get a nut properly tight on a bolt wouldn't be possible with an adjustable, probably just end up rounding the nut off. Could be just my history with poor quality adjustables though.

Its always worked for me. You don't need to get them super tight. According to the BMC guidance document "Over tightening can pull the collar over the cone, leading to failure."Over tightening can pull the collar over the cone, leading to failure

The Push Up one I've tightened at a funny angle so the rope direction doesn't unscrew it again though it would be pulled back if you fell on it. Hopefully soon to be solved by a glue-in.